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@RDGham3028 i did consider this. But the location of my shop is just a few feet off my driveway and I worried about delivery trucks, Amazon, mail, etc, hitting it.

@PickleNPeanut i would suggest sanding the piece and starting over. You shouldn't have to sand every inch of stain off. Just to the point of fixing. Thanks for you kind words and good luck

@mpe777 humidity plays a large part in the drying process. Also if you don't spread the finish out evenly or leave too much piled up in spots, the longer it will take to dry. I have hvac running in my shop 24/7. If the humidity is too high you may have to stain twice allowing the first coat to dry and then a second bring it to the shade you want. If, what you have done so far, it doesn't dry fast enough you may have to sand it off and re-apply. You shouldn't have to sand the whole piece, just the sticky sections and then re-apply to those spots and blend them in. If I am doing any piece that requires staining, I do them just like I did in the video. I never wipe. I just apply until I get the shade I want and wipe in the direction of the grain. If the humidity If high where you are, you may have to plan on staining twice. Thin on top of thin. Hope that makes sense

@ezrabrooks12 thank you. I have a Playlist on my channel also which covers different techniques of joinery with this jig. Through dovetails, halfblinds, box joints, etc you might be interested in

That's great. Let me know how you like them once you try them

@richardarsenault1471 Thanks Richard

@@DaveMock-je2xd I am not sure I am understanding your issue. Are you using 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch thick pieces?

I am replying to my Question above. I have been cutting box joints with a 1/2 inch bit and a 3/4 inch template guide. The groove I cut comes out to 1/2 inch wide but the through piece ends up being 3/4 inch because the edge of one groove is 3/4 inch to the next but the 1/2 inch groove will not allow the 3/4 inch through piece to mesh with it. It's like putting a square peg in a round hole. There has to be a 3/4 inch groove to allow the 3/4 inch through piece to go into it. Does that make sense. I am cutting up trees to figure this out.

@DaveMock-je2xd I am sorry but I still don't think I am completely understanding what you are experiencing. When you say "through piece", what are you calling the through piece?

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I am using 3/4 inch board for all sides.

@@hobiecat901 I haven't had that issue with mine. You can return it

@@kurtgoodwin9490 Thank you. I am glad you found it helpful.

@@richardstoker4963 Not that I am aware of.

@michaelnorman5640 Thanks Michael. I hope you never have this issue too. It was a pain but I figured it out

@@hofnerbass thank you

@@PeanutsDadForever Thank you

@chrissalazar183 regular. Straight out of the faucet. Never had any issues. But it's not very much water used to mix down the paint. Just enough to thin it a little

@anthonyvincent9990 Thanks for watching. I never did reach out to them and they never did reach out to me. I still use this router. I never did fix it due to having so many other routers in my shop. It is a tough reliable router. It just don't have variable speed, so it gets used with smaller bits. Wasn't such a huge deal to me but I did want people to know about it. For some people this may be the only router they have and need it to have variable speed control working on it.

@copedog101 I wouldn't say the 734 is junk. I have had mine longer than my 735 and have had less problems from it than the 735. Both are great planers and any of them can turn out to be a lemon. But I have had no issues at all with my 734.

@@Jordanwoodworking yeah. I just got that. This was the first time I had used it. And it is a time saver for sure

@@wetfly44448888 I have never done one. I would have to figure it out myself first

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 This is just me venting some frustration cause I started my dovetail journey here, and I don't really have any other place or person who cares about my current frustration with this jig....Please forgive me for venting on your vid, but again....I figure you will understand... I now have hours and hours into this jig trying to do Rabbeted Half-Blind Dovetails. I find this to be much harder than through dovetails and much much harder than half blind dovetails....both of those were fairly easy. I see two initial problems... There are no videos...and the manual is less then specific... The manual actually tells you that to troubleshoot Rabitted half blinds to use the same methods described for the half blinds. And those are completely diffidently than through dovetails BTW... ...not as all the same... On half blinds you "tighten or loosen" your joint by lowering or raising your bit...???!!! I don't want to raise or lower my bit...I want it at a specific depth...? You move the template forward or backward to adjust proud or not proud... On half blind dovetails unlike through dovetails moving the template does nothing towards tightening your joint.... It's counterintuitive at best.... and unlike half blinds...you do your tails and your pins separately and therein lies the issue You would think as Hammer says in his video, "the tails become your reference".. I understand that to mean you make your pins fit your tails... Once cut you do not mess w/the tails... But that's easier said than done... I've gone through so much lumber I'm embarresed to say, but at even the cheapest I can buy, it's been a chunk of change to learn this particular thing.... I am tempted to just do half blinds for my drawers which are easy cause you do the tails and the pins simultaneously....but then that would be admitting defeat... This jig is so touchy, so many different ways to tweak it...and it appears that the "Rabbeted Half Blind Dovetail" is the most demanding and hardest to bring all the little adjustments into harmony to end up with an acceptable joint.... I've gotten it there, but then reproducing it is problematic because the only reference is that guide thing on the left that you move in and out to set a reference...and that is not machined any way near what it should be to serve as a valid reference...I'm not even convinced it's square... Make no mistake this jig was easy to do through dovetails and half blind...it's just this one joinit that seems to be so hard... Thank you for listening... Again I'm more ranting than looking for a response... I will figure this out eventually... I intend to actually call Porter Cable tomorrow to rant to them a bit and hopefully get some enlightenment.

@wetfly44448888 I understand your frustrations. I have never done the rabitted halfblind dovetails. I need to figure that one out and do a video on it. Just hadn't had time yet. Unless the manual states to raise or lower the bit in a certain process, I wouldn't. I can't think of how this would loosen or tighten a joint. Seems to me it would only mess the joint up. Unless im missing something. You loosen and tighten joints up by moving the template forward or backward on the jig. Like I said, I haven't tried rabitted dovetails. Maybe the height of the bit effects that. Don't know. Never done that joint on this jig. As soon as I can I will try to figure it out and do a video on it. Honestly I don't know when that will be. I have a lot going on and it may be awhile.

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Thank you for the response...I'm thinking I'll get it figured out first cause I'm the one who needs it now...lol... So this is in the manual page 20...and this is in the section for Rabitted Half Blinds.... "FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING Fitting and troubleshooting methods for the lipped front half-blind dovetail are the same as for the regular half blind dovetail." So let me show you what their referring us to in the Half Blind Dovetail Troubleshooting sections...pg. 19 "FITTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING For joints that are too loose, adjust your router to make a deeper cut. (Measure the gap (A) Fig. Q10 in the test cut and adjust the router for that amount). For joints that are too tight, adjust your router to make a more shallow cut. Once you achieve the correct depth, secure the router bit depth guide in place with a 3/8" wrench. If the drawer front overlaps the drawer side, reposition the template toward you (Fig. Q11). If the drawer front is recessed from the edge of the drawer side (Fig. Q12), reposition the template away from you." See, this makes no sense to me.... I'm calling them tomorrow to see if there is some sort of typo in this... But no, please don't rush to do a vid on my account....

@wetfly44448888 thank you. I hope they are helpful. I have a playlist of different methods. I hope you enjoy them

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I know I subscribed and have watched all you have on this jig...I hope to have time to look at your vids on other topics, but I've watched everything you currently have posted on this jig...You are a good teacher....easy to understand, you don't complicate things...

@@wetfly44448888 Thank you

@allenriff9242 Chad done a very good job on that centering template. I don't think you will be disappointed. Thanks for stopping by the channel. Let me know what you think about the template when you try it out

@LivingTheLifeRetired Thank you. I have several videos on this jig. There is a Playlist on my channel for through dovetails, halfblind, etc. If you wish to check them out

@@alcantrell5340 thank you

@@Jcrow0147 sticky back. Peal and stick

@tmmyjay that I don't know. I usually buy the blades made for the tool. If the slots and notches line up and you are comfortable with it, you could try but do so at your own risk. I can't recommend using like that for safety reasons

@00vTv00 Thank you. Glad it helped

@MarkDixon You have a plunge dept guage on the left side of the template. Set your router on the template and plunge down to the stop, which is a black knob with a threaded height adjustment screw. It should be labeled on the template. The stop is suppose to be set at the factory for the proper depth. If it is not correct you may have to tweak it some up or down. I think the common depth for halfblinds is 3/8 inch below the dovetail template while the router is sitting on top of the template and plunged down exposing 3/8 of the bit below the template. You can tweak it from there to preference. Hope that makes sense

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Thank you!

@@batman9843 Thanks. Hope it's helpful. I have made most of the doors in our house. Still have a fee more to go myself

@IndustrializeEverything thanks. I'll give that a try. I did take the drive chain off and the cogs on the front and rear post on the right hand side will move freely but the left hand side the cogs are locked up and will not move. That's the right side front and rear post. I don't see any way to get inside and try to free them. I took one of the cogs off and try to enter it from the top but wasn't able to do so without damaging something and the is no way to go in from the bottom since I can't raise it up to access anything. But I'll try your suggestion and see if it helps. I won't be able to add any grease inside though

Oh, sounds like you already tried this. Never mind! 😊

@RossDMartin Thanks Ross. I'll give it a try

Thank you. You can only cut what the bit will reach. And you have the thickness of the template to account for too. Probably 3/4 at most

@collectpanda3350 I do it freehand. I don't know if there is a support for curved chisels under a WS3000. Some grinders have after market supports.

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy36795 year old video, 10 minute response time. Thank you sir

Thank you

Lol. It's a hillbilly thang

Yes your box size is somewhat limited in size by how far you mount the jig in relation to the floor. Not sure I am understanding the rest of your question. You can do through dovetails, halfblind dovetails, sliding and stopped dovetails and box joints with this jig. I have videos of all of those. Maybe email me a picture of what you are talking about and ill see if I can't figure it out

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 I meant Instead of doing a 90 degree corner joint, can you do a flush dove tail joint... a joint between two boards that are flush, no corner, no angle i.e. taking two boards and making it into one board with a dove tail joint to join them?

@WithoutTroy oh ok. I see what your saying. You can't with the jig. You will probably have to hand cut those. You could cut your dovetails with the jig but you would still have to hand cut the pins side do extend a boards length like that

You are welcome. Thanks for watching

Hope it helps. I have a Playlist for this jig if you are interested

@@hammerdownwoodworkingtracy3679 Absolutely - and many thanks (again)

Thank you. It means a lot to hear that

Yes. Just the pins are adjustable. The tails are cut by the bit passing through the work piece straight so there is no adjusting them. The pins are adjustable. When you move the template forward and backwards it will allow sizing the pins. Moving the pin template backwards, or away from you allows a wider range of the template over the work piece. The tail template has straight tines, so there is no adjustments to the tails

Thanks. I use that one a lot. It works great.

Thank you. My wife bought me those jet clamps several yrs ago. Otherwise I probably wouldn't have them. They are good clamps but way to expensive. I have an abundance of clamps brands. Never did stick to one particular brand.