Відео

Don't watch too closely, as I removed one pump earlier, then disassemble another, and then re-assemble yet another. These pumps are very similar across years, typically lockup/non-lockup is the biggest variance. Pump support torque: 15 ft-lbs Ring gear tolerance: 0.001" - 0.003" Tooth tolerance: 0.005" - 0.010"

Removing the pump from a 32RH transmission using a rented slide hammer from Autozone. You'll also need a 2" long 7/16" bolt and corresponding washer. A few pulls on either side and it should come right out.

Installation of the overrun cam & output support. And as a bonus, the low/reverse (rear) band apply lever. Torque on the overrun cam: 100 in-lbs Torque on the output support bolts: 150 in-lbs

Installing the kickdown and low/reverse servo pistons.

Disassembly of the kickdown & low/reverse servos, and replacing the rubber seals & sealing rings. Also a brief discussion of the accumulator piston.

Overhaul steps for the rear drum on a 32RH/A904 transmission.

This is the removal of the torque converter clutch solenoid off the valve body. There is one t-25 screw that holds it in, plus an o-ring. I missed filming this step in the valve body complete teardown video (video #4 in the playlist)

Replacing the seal & bearing on a Dana 44 rear axle on my 97 TJ with drum brakes. I reused my retaining plate by flipping it over since the new retaining plate I bought didn't have the right bolt pattern. Tools needed: 9/16 deep socket Torque wrench Bearing grease Dremel or other cutting device Shop press X-Large QT drink, 1/4 frozen cherry 3/4 Mtn Dew Parts used: Timken Set 10 bearing & retain...

I will take you through a complete testing procedure for a camshaft position sensor for Jeep TJ & XJ. I make many references to pins & cavities. These tend to be the same across all the years, but I know specifically that 2005-2006 has different paths to the PCM and 97, 05, and 06 TJ's have the 5V supply & sensor signal wire flipped at the sensor. Consult your factory service manual to validate...

Bolting the valve body to the transmission case. Torquing these to 105 inch-lbs is vital. I had an issue and needed to drop the valve body again and forgot to torque (actually I forgot to even tighten) the bolts, and the result was that I had 100% slippage in 3rd gear and a nasty shudder in reverse. Torquing these bolts solved that issue 100%. It's a pretty important step.

We set up the strut & adjuster screw on the kickdown band, and perform the low/reverse band adjustment of torquing to 72 inch-lbs and then backing off 4 turns. The kickdown band we do not adjust here, because we need to "over tighten" it in order to hold the front drum secure. If we do not do this step, then the drum can come out of alignment, and possibly cause the clutches to come out of alig...

Detailing the install of the front drum, meshing both clutch packs, and installing the kickdown band.

Included here are the overrun clutch, low/reverse drum & band, both output planetary sets and the driving shell.

Around the 3:50 mark we get into the installation of the kickdown valve & sleeve. I am following the 1997 FSM, which has an incorrect diagram. The correct orientation of the kickdown valve is: throttle valve, fat end goes into the bore first. spring sits over the narrow end of the throttle valve kickdown valve goes in short side first, with the nub going into the opening on the spring THIS IS T...

32RH (904) Teardown Part 3 - Gear train & valve body

32RH (904) Valve Body Reassembly Part 4 - Throttle Pressure Plug

32RH (904) Teardown - Valve Body Complete Teardown

32RH (904) Valve Body Reassembly Part 3 - Kickdown Limit Valve & Shift Valves

32RH (904) Valve Body Reassembly Part 2 - Governor Plug End Plate

32RH (904) Valve Body Reassembly Part 1 - Torque Converter Clutch Module