Відео

No that would be calcium carbonate you need ca oh2 lime

I know it has been many years since you posted this, but what was the sound result?

Very interesting! Thank you very much sir.

i have been asked wether stradivarious would know about this and i would reccomend everone interested to read the travels of Marco Polo in which he describes pitch ( rosin )being boiled with lime to make caulking for boats !

Poor quality of sound.

rosin limed is a much more usefull resin for varnishes it melts at 126 degrees C compared with rosin which melts at 80 C

Nice to see you back Frank, I’ve read an article about rosinate varnish by a chap called Joseph Michelman. His method seems more complicated to me ( not being scientifically minded) The way you’ve demonstrated it gives me the confidence to attempt making some. Thank you for posting the video. It would be nice of you to post another video showing the varnish be applied ( how to thicken or thin it) also how to colour the varnish if required. Thanks again 👍

Is anyone able to list the books that he mentioned in the beginning of the video here in the comments?

Hi Frank! You are a truly non commercial maker of the varnish. Here is how I made mine: ua-cam.com/video/zZLka9BxZ-c/v-deo.html Cheers!

i have been asked many times what is " the Break " this is the fraction that separates after heating to 240 250 C, and what does it consist of ? I do not have access to a gas chromato graph to be positive but i made a bit of progress a couple of years back at the start of Covid , I washed my glassware with caustic soda and collected the solution in a bottle this was left out in my shed where i happened to look at in winter it now had a white waxy substance floating on the surface ,this looked exactly like the white waxy substance that separates from olive oil in winter . this is Oleic acid, a major component of olive oil and this does not dry to form varnish so it is best to remove this to make linseed oil a better varnish oil they new about this in Italy in 1550 ! now what has happened to Raw Linseed Oil in the USA I suspect that It has been processed to separate the oleic acid which is a very valuable comodity which ends up in bottles with fancy labels as Virgin Olive Oil . this would explain why RLO wont break in the USA . and another thing when i did try to" break" it i got a vile smell! again i think this was due to the addition of Fish Oil to bulk it out which is good enough for tool handles and baseball bats and is only 50 cents a pint compared with $4 a pint sorry to ramble on but i wanted to get this posted !

After the iron oxide, my violin turned green?????

Wood turned green after this. Why???????

If the glass broke or fell off the stove it could be catastrophic. This is very dangerous.

Thanks legend!

Useful info. I have a small piece of teak that I want to treat with linseed oil. I believe heating the oil will help with penetration. I intend to heat the oil to about 150 c in a saucepan and immerse the item in the oil. Watching this has given me confidence that I won't start a fire at that temperature.

Will letting the oil boil and cool multiple times make it dry faster?

Hi Frank with your ground do you do the neck and peg box also?

Hi….Pete had an instructional video on his site on how to play slide in open D…it’s been taken down…I would like to purchase a copy from him…do you know how i could contact him……thanks

Hello! I've met the recipe from J.Corsaut:1. Calcined lamb bone consists of a a form of lime: Ca(OH)2. 2. Wood ash contains the alkali KOH. 3. Heating linseed or walnut oil with 3% of either Ca(OH)2 or KOH for ten or fifteen minutes at 450 degrees F. causes the fatty acid of the oil to react and dissolve the alkali. On cooling, the oil becomes a clear, varnish like, amber colored gel. I've just tried to make it from sun-bleached refined sunflower oil. The Ca(OH)2 didn't dissolve and formed a thick pellicle on the top of the oil. Does the temperature should all the time be 450 degrees F? At me, it was a bit higher and grew fast from 450 to 465.

Im starting my first violin. How long do I have to wait for this type of ground to dry before oil painting? I plan on finding a simple wood primer like this and using oil paints for my color layer and then use a clear/ natural varnish. Do you know if this process would work? I'm definitely more interested in how they did it back then than doing anything modern. Let's face it Amati had no idea what U.V. was let alone have a box that contains it. Im wanting to use as much household or readily available materials as possible. Hints the oil paint "they definitely had that" and natural varnish. Obviously I'll be cheating a bit if I go a French polish or wet sand and buff route but that's for a different discussion. What are the chemicals you used exactly? I see you can get them on ebay but obscure lab chemicals aren't my specialty forgive me.

Frank, Thank you for these videos! I'm interested in alternative/ancient/classical/natural/petroleum free/... Finishes for electric guitars, and just wanted to share something (that you violin guys and gals probably already know). I became fascinated with Gum Gamboge when seeing it available at a woodworking supply website. I read that it may have been used for violin grounds. I came across an article on Gamboge that suggest a possible source for the Fe: Gamboge dissolved in caustic potash water precipitated with protosulfate of iron for a brown color. www.researchgate.net/publication/320798885_Gamboge-The_bark_exudate_from_Garcinia_species Here is what is says: The brittle resin is deep orange colour in thin layers and when it is fine powdered, its colour is gamboge yellow. Gamboge resin is insoluble in water, but soluble in alcohol. It dissolves in a solution of caustic potash, forming a dark red liquid which gets precipitated by acids and lime water, and some metallic salts like lead, brown by protosulphate of iron and green by the nitrate of copper. The precipitates formed with the metallic salts are regarded as gambogiates of the respective metals, as they consist of the resin and the oxide of the metal.

Can i do this with a pan and an owen?

Is this the same effect as when painters that shake the linseed oil with sand and hot salt water?

how do the violins sound after this treatment?

very atmospheric with the rain outside ;-)

Nice, thanks for the info, hard to get food grade "boiled linseed oil" where I live. Now I can get my own.

raw linseed oil obtained from Amazon did not behave as raw linseed oil obtained in England and ended up catching fire and when cooled had no "break " or sediment, smelt gross and was green in colour i would not add it to my violin varnish .so this might not be possible to replicate in the USA unless you can source untreated Raw linseed oil

this is an attempt to reproduce my original video -boil linseed oil to scorch a feather but the raw linseed oil bought from Amazon was useless for my purpose and did not break and when i repeated the boil it caught fire ! fortunately i had the pan lid handy and put it out without damage. it never did "break " and turned green with a gross smell which i would never use in my violin varnish. please watch the continuation clips

I'm getting of these next week, what key u In there mate

I’m wondering if any people with experience with raw linseed oil and boiled linseed oil know the difference between using the two products as a wood finish? Is dry time the only differince, and boiled and raw?. Or does boiling the oil change the quality of the oil and the finish?

Hello Frank, thanks for your videos! Do you treat the bass bar also, I couldn't see on the video? Thanks for your time.

Mate do it outside it only takes one mistake to burn your house down. A camping stove is less expensive than a new house

Wow a luthier that actually speaks! Can't understand him because of the background noises, but what the hey! Potasium silicate and limewater? Due to the toxic nature of these materials combined with the fact he uses no protective equipment he's probably on a respirator now!

Frank! I want to try your method. I have all the ingredients. The iron cloride is labeled 40%. Is this too strong ? It's a lot darker than the solution you use.

hello, Alter several tests, and (empirical) parameter variations, I still can't get the same result as yours. I suspect unapropriate concentrations of my solutions, and/or the amount of liquid put on the wood, beeing the cause of not getting the desired chemichal reactions. But my very approximative knowledge in chemistry doesn't help! Here's what I get (with questions under brackets): 1st stage: it seems ok, looks like in your video. Wood with "pale-yellow-ish" hue, and almost waterproof after drying of the Potassium silicate. (is it better to have too much or too less of silicate set on the wood at this stage?) 2nd stage: After setting limewater, followed by long drying time (24h+), my wood is no longer waterproof at all. (so I suspect I don't get the calcium silicate). (is it better to put too much or too less of lime at this stage?) (when you apply limewater, must the fisrt coat be completely dry or does it need some remaining humidity?) 3rd stage: no apparent effect (wood colour unchanged) after the application of iron chloryde (FeCl3) solution. After a long drying time (48h+), the wood is still not completely waterproof. Thank you for help!

Hey Frank, when you apply the ground to the outside, do you put it on the back of the neck or just leave it bare?

Hello Frank the potassium silicate I looked at on eBay mentioned it was for improving plant growth. Would this be the same potassium you are using on the violin ? This may seem a stupid question but having no scientific background I was not sure if there was a different between the fertiliser version and the one you were using. I have finished my first violin and am now making two more and which I intend using your method for the ground coat. Thanks again for sharing this.👍 Also is Ferric chloride the same thing as iron chloride? I have seen marked as Ferric chloride/99%iron chloride. Apologies once again, I guess for you these may seem stupid questions, from my none scientific perspective I am clueless.

Looks good

I'd like to see a video of what the product looks like when applied.

How much did you sell it for?

Hello Could I cook the oil in a saucepan? I have wide mouth jars but no scientific jars to use. Thank you for your interesting video.

Thank you Frank.

Arrgh, Great videos but I keep wanting to scream "use a bigger piece of cloth" (and wider necked vessels) Doubling the size cloth would get the job done just as accurately but in much shorter order.

Hi Frank, just found and watched your series of videos, (4). Very interesting and well presented. Will you be doing any further videos on varnishing?

Like that one also👍

Like it👍

Hello Frank - I like this treatment to the wood.I was wondering if the viscous substance of the aloe gel could improve the sound of the violin.The Aloe gel has lot of minerals in his structure.Maybe using the Aloe gel in previous coats or as a previous step to this treatment you use.Is an idea to check.What do you think? Regards.

This may be a stupid question Frank, if I wonted to stain the violin would it have to be done before applying the treatment? As you say it becomes waterproof. Or would you not stain and put the colour in the following coats of varnish.

Sweet! 😊

It might be safer to use a sand bath for heating the oil. Put clean sand into an all metal saucepan, to form a stable bed for the beaker. Don't use a saucepan with plastic parts or any non-stick coatings, because the temperatures are too high. If the saucepan is of the right size, it would contain any spills if the beaker breaks and prevent a fire.