Відео

Thanks man, great and honest tips.

What should I search online so i can learn more about whatever this is?

Hi thanks for the vid, would definitely like to see a vid that where the foreground is not as clean. I do have a question please, can you treat the sky as a sky replacement in PS? Thanks!

yeah, then you got bunch of noise, that's even harder to get rid off

I just use a histogram

Good tip! Easy to fool yourself into thinking your exposure is OK when the monitor is too bright.

Most useful short today

my reccomendation nowadays is to only manually set the parameter that affects the style you're going for (i.e. set aputure for desired amount of background blur) and leave the rest on auto, while adjusting the exosure with exposure-compensation.

Use nd gradient filter. Solved

what is the step by step how to take the picture using a professional camera? what setting i need to change first, the iso? apertures? shutter speed? note: sorry if my english so bad😅

But now you could lose information in the shadows lol 😅. I feel like finding the proper balance is the way you're actually suppose to do this lol 😅

Learned this the hard way, I did a car photography job and I missed focus on my favourite picture from that day 😢

Brilliant!! Thank you

Cool , my old camer do it automatically , take 3 images on 1 click, but i dont known it how to mege it .. thanks 😊

No way bro uses autofocus 💀

Some things go so fast, I don't know what you did. At 4:40, you click from the curves to the image and then did something (on your keyboard?) to make it black and white again.

what do you do when the filter gets stuck on the lens?

I think you just have to choose what you value in the shot. The underexposed foreground will be harder to get back to that well defined crisp place that it was in the initial exposure. Time of day is probably the best equalizer here.

Who is this tutorial designed for? If you know how to use Photoshop, it’s redundant. If you don’t know how to use it (e.g. creating a layer mask) you don’t go into enough specific detail for your video to be useful. I know it’s easy to be critical on the internet, and I’m not looking to be negative. But if you want to provide useful content you might want to give more thought as to whom you’re looking to educate.

All extended iso does is push or pull the gain on the native iso of the sensor. If you reduce the gain (going lower than the lowest native ISO) you lose dynamic range, especially in shadows); go above the highest native ISO and you lose shadow detail and add unnecessary noise.

No, Instagram is not a business. Facebook was created by agencies of the government. And Ai protection laws already exist. It is called copyright law. Ai companies confessed they violate copyright law in order to achieve what they call "Progress" which is their progress. Generative Ai is a weapon against humanity. Yes because they are using it to make people bite the hook and ask for more restrictions and new laws. There are 2 political agendas behind Ai. 1- Digital ID 2- The Universal Basic Income. You say there is no direct effect on me now. Well I am a songwriter so for you I come from the future. I mean :Your Future". These kind of attacks on our community started around 2001 with Napster. Then Spotify and Pandora followed with the complicity of the whole Music Industry giving away their masters. Songwriters and Publishers are the copyright owners of the songs but we have a consent decree law which obligate us to give away our creations to streaming Platforms. as a result on all that nowadays 90% of songwriters lost the ability to make a living on their job. So my advice is just because it hasn't hit you yet I wouldn't take all of this for granted.

I wouldn't call this underexposure, I would call it exposure to the right (ettr). Results in more noise in the underexposed PARTS of the image but retains full dynamic range

One can literally download a random blue hour landscape photo and a random Milky Way photo, from the internet, and do a sky replacement in Photoshop and tweak it to look realistic, that's how easy it is. Photos could be shot in entirely different parts of the world, and at different times of course.

Isn’t that HDR? Also, can’t you just drop it in Lightroom and let that do its thing? Lol. I’ve never used Lightroom but my photographer friend can’t stop talking about it. Haha

Linear OETF wants to enter the chat - half of a raw images data lies in the brightest stop. So if you listen to this tip, you might save some speculars, but lose tons of data (and therefore color information) in the more important parts of the image. It's better to stack in this case, or, simply blow out the speculars and edit around it. It's almost impossible to squeeze them into a srgb tonal range without them looking crappy anyway.

Cool

Yes, I always do this with my a7R III screen quality. But if you shoot through the viewfinder which is more detailed you don't have to

White balance to a medium grey card. Boom all set

It's essentially a manual HDR. Exposing for details in the lowlights while keeping the overexposure in the highlights from blowing everything out. You can further go nuts by compositing day/night and seasonal shoots from the same perspective (same metering too)

Ha yes this is so true, but the irony is we (almost) always shoot wide in landscape photography

Nah bro lol

Can I do this in Lightroom?

Couldn't you just use an ND filter for the long exposure water effect?

I love my polarizer and never knew this was a thing! (I typically don’t shoot wide) Thank you for the useful information

Nothing new…

how does one 'zoom in' in a preview box? I can only see a very large thumbnail version and can't 'check' my fuzziness like you did in this video.

This is a great tip for digital, I still mostly shoot film though and interestingly enough it’s the opposite, you want to er on the side of over exposing, basically expose for the shadows then develop for the highlights

what lens is that?

I was suprised thay my handheld panoramas actually turned out really good, i was able to get a high resolution photo of the valley below Yosemite Falls this way, not having to carry a tripod was nice 😅

Newbie here. On trial LR now. Import question: say I have a 3 mb photo already imported but then I find the same photo (same title) but it is 10 mb. So when I go to import that image, LR blocks the import because it says the image is already there - so how can I override to get the larger file to replace smaller?

Here's an additional trick - the image you see on your back screen is a jpeg that displays whatever in camera settings you have, but not the raw file itself. If you set your highlights to go off at 252 to 254 ("blinkies"/"zebra strips") for highlights warnings and have image displayed as the unadulterated raw image rendered to jpeg, and watch your histogram, you can grab the widest dynamic range possible, not blow pit your highlights (unless you want too) and recover your shadow detail. Essentially, you are "shooting to the right" to preserve your highlights when you are dealing with very bright highlights. Shooting to the right in low dynamic range scenes can wash out a shot.

What about the DNG digital negative format I've used for about 100k of images and edited copies of images over the last 20 years? How can one switch over and retain all the edits?

Your my new brother LMAO

To be pedantic f22 is lower than say f8 as 22 refers to 1/22. I have not seen any deterioration in quality at f16 and for macro even smaller to get a whole subject in focus which is moving and therefore not allowing for focus stacking. For the most avid pixel peeper there will indeed be an optimum f-stop but this is not in my view noticeable in the real world. Anyway, thanks for the video.

this comment may be a bit late but what do you use to make your battery last all night? a dummy battery?

Capture One is excellent

Wow thanks a lot this saved my shoot 😅🫡🔥

Hey, I make textile print designs using existing images from my hand- painted artworks put together. All paintings images are taken from my iPhone but vary in sharpness and size. looking for a software that could help me with sharpening parts of the completed designs (or the full designs) to be hi-res and print-ready for scaves etc. Which software do you recommend?

Or just use gradual nd filters for sky

Which camera do you use master?