Відео

You're welcome! Glad it helped!

Unless it's all highway miles, it's rather risky either way. Before doing anything, I'd take a small sample, do an oil analysis, and, if the fluid condition is not too bad, you may consider a drain-and-fill to introduce a small new amount.

You are welcome!

Appreciate the kind words! Glad it helped. God bless!

Sounds like the transmission is crying (hungry) for fluid. It can be low on fluid level so definitely check the level and condition of the fluid. If it's low, add and set it to the correct level. If the fluid condition is not too bad (e.g. burnt), you may consider a drain-and-fill so it will flow better when cold (morning).

I think so and here is additional information about setting ATF temperature PIDs on Chrysler/Dodge/Ram models, though I don't have such a vehicle to test them so keep us posted when you have a chance to try them: 1) For Chrysler/Dodge, the Torque Pro app has predefined PIDs for transmission temp. I copied some of the key fields in the setting: Mode/PID 2103, min 0.0, max 200.0, unit C, Equation A-40, Header Auto. 2) For Ram, here is a related forum thread: www.ramforum.com/threads/transmission-temperature-pid.151001/ Again, I copied the PID here: PID: 22b010 Long Name: Transmission Temp Short name: Trans Temp Min value: 0.0 Max Value: 250.0 Scale: x1 Unit: (degrees)f Equation: ((A*256)+b)*(1/64) Let us know whether it works on your vehicle.

Great question! It's typically between the engine and the transmission. Modern engines suffer from (recommended) extended oil change intervals, fuel dilution, and oil burning, which can also damage the catalytic converter. Transmissions can last if properly maintained, but if people take "sealed", "lifetime" transmission fluid literally, their units will fail before the engine does. Under normal driving conditions, a Toyota transmission can still last over 200,000 miles. I've seen one nearly reach 400,000 miles without ATF service, but it was all highway driving. For heavy city driving, there will be problems before even reaching half of that. Regular oil changes for both the engine and transmission (drain and fill) will help extend their life. Rust is another killer, especially in regions with harsh winters or coastal areas. Some vehicles by design are prone to rust, and those in the rust belt can reach the end of their life even when the engine and transmission are still strong. Rust protection is an option, but personally, I prefer washing the car regularly, including a good splash of the underbody, wheel wells, etc. to get rid of salt.

The same 75W-85 GL-5 for both rear differential and transfer case, per owner's manual. A couple of options here: * Valvoline: amzn.to/4hhlgxh * Red Line: amzn.to/4eD2fUf

@@profsg Thanks

Glad it was helpful! No need to switch audio every time. Once you switch to AUX, it will stay that way and, next time you start the car, it automatically enters into Carplay with AUX audio.

@@profsg oh ok perfect! And whenever I switch back to car’s radio/audio system it will automatically should start playing back and disconnect from aux, correct? Also, can I play UA-cam/Netflix while driving? For my kiddos… thanks

It will automatically connect to carplay but won't change your audio setting. If it's AUX, it remains AUX. If you have switched to radio, it stays radio until you manually change it again. Hope this is clear now. You can play UA-cam or any app on your phone and you can listen to it from AUX. But the video remains on your phone, not carplay screen. That said, there's a UA-cam app and screen cast/mirror feature on the module but that requires a different connection (disconnecting carplay and reconnecting to the feature), which I tested a while ago and didn't like.

@@profsg ok thank you for all the clarifications! Yes that clears it up!

Appreciate the kind words! Glad the videos helped, and cool that you recognized your home ground. Small world, indeed!

Suppose your replacement plug is OE and you don't have major oil burning problems, I'd check/replace the ignition coil for cylinder #2, the wiring and connector to the coil. If wiring is good, clean your connector and make sure it has good contact/connection. The other possibility is mechanical problems within cylinder 2 (e.g. with valve seal or piston ring) and you may run a compression test to find out.

If all cylinders have this intermittent misfire, check your ground connection. If it's intermittent misfire on cylinder #2, check connectors/wiring to coil AND injector.

With this number of miles, the easy answer is no. Don't touch it. But there are rare exceptions... for example, if it's all light, high-way driving, one can consider this to be equivalent of over 100,000 miles of normal driving and the transmission likely has much less wear and tear. An oil analysis will tell and, only then, you may consider a drain-and-fill if the fluid isn't in a terrible condition. Either way, there are risks and here is a related video on this topic: ua-cam.com/video/X7iQ8hWcB_w/v-deo.html, which is focused on Toyota transmissions but the principles apply to reliable transmissions like ZF.

Yes, absolutely! And this is super critical: keep engine running while you continue to fill fluid at the correct (warmed up) temperature. There is a lot of fluid circulating in the transmission with engine running. If engine is turned off at this point, extra fluid will return to the pan and overflow from the fill hole, making the level incorrect (very low). Hope this makes sense.

Glad run flat tires work for you! I know it's a great idea but have heard complaints about them. Some have strong opinions against them. But I guess they at least give you the peace of mind knowing you won't get stuck with a flat tire.

Suppose he did reconnect the power supply, fuse didn't blow and the unit is not faulty, have you tried scanning code and resetting the EPB with an OBD II scanner? If you don't have the tool or the right procedure for this reset, what one may try (not what I'd recommend) is to disconnect the car battery for a minute and reconnect. This will clear registered code and reset certain components. Best luck!

Unlike engine oil, transmission fluid won't degrade much in a sealed unit by sitting there. Driving frequency is not a major factor here. You can still follow the mileage interval. That said, driving conditions will have a major impact on the fluid. Besides towing, hard/city driving with a lot of start and stops will wear it down faster. You can change it more frequently if that's the case.

@@profsg Thanks. My 2017 LC200 has been driven only 40000 km and has not had any transmission fluid change, Do I still need to change it

It's still early given the low mileage. But it doesn't hurt if you want to do it now. Just make sure to use the correct fluid and follow the procedure to set the correct level.

Until Toyota changes its specification or any aftermarket fluid meets it's specs, it's best to stick with WS. Full synthetic or not, if it doesn't meet Toyota specification, it's not designed to provide optimal protection and performance for a Toyota transmission. Not to mention meeting additive requirements in the fluid.

@@profsg I meant specifically Toyota WS. There are number of WS compatible fluids based on synthetic base stocks. Don't think I have ever heard of people going to Amsoil blue label fluid, for example, and having a problem. I know some people are scrupulous about using dealer oil etc. But I suspect the dealer fluids are actually mediocre at best, at least when the standard is as old as WS is. I could be wrong, and sometimes am.

Appreciate your input! And yes, I meant Toyota WS (World Standard) fluid too. There are claims of compatibility but so far I haven't seen any fluid meeting Toyota WS specification. My favorite example is Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle transmission fluid, which claims to be compatible for many different makes and models including Toyotas. But, while I like Valvoline products and use them extensively, it makes no sense for one fluid to be "compatible" with so many different fluid types such as Toyota Type T, WS, and Dexron. Again for WS, I haven't found any aftermarket alternative designed specifically for it. Yes, there are lots of reports of success using Amsoil and Valvoline but theres is survivor bias and we don't know the long-term effect of these fluids on a Toyota WS transmission. I'd trust Toyota who designed and tested their transmissions for its fluid specification and won't take the risk here.

I should also add that there are jobs where aftermarket alternatives meet manufacturer specifications. On Toyota/Lexus differentials with 75W85 GL-5, for example, any aftermarket fluid meeting the API and SAE specs here can be used and I have no hesitation in using them. In other cases, the car maker didn't even design or manufacture the transmission and you don't need use their branded fluid. For example, my 2017 BMW X3 comes with a ZF transmission and I use ZF fluid (very cheap from RockAuto), instead of a BMW-labeled fluid (much more expensive and unnecessary): ua-cam.com/video/cxvEk0ydXtg/v-deo.html

Any code such as misfire? Or does the vibration sounds like engine misfiring? If spark plugs are due, replace them with OE plugs for sure. But there are so many other factors such as fuel, cold lubrication, airflow sensor at cold, etc. To eliminate some of these, I'd try premium gas, change oil, check/clean air filter, MAF, etc. Best luck!

Yes, it has the same 2GR-FKS V6 engine so follow the procedure in video. Only difference I can think of is the ground clearance and removal of underbody shields to access the radiator petcock.

This is usually done every 30,000 miles so the drivetrain has good lubrication and protection for its internal components. No fluid lasts forever and will deteriorate over time, e.g. to lose its ability to lubricate and dissipate heat. For differentials, the fluid will also collect internal shavings and debris from normal wear and, if the fluid is not changed, the contaminants will build up and over time cause further wear/damage to internal components, among others. Bottom line is, regular maintenance like fluid replacement is cheap to avoid much more expensive failures and repairs down the road.

Yes exactly! They were designed for the same reason and for ideal/perfect engine conditions. For one, they both require good engine oil and short oil change intervals but in reality Honda recommended the opposite. No surprise though b/c all these look great on paper.

You bet! To your questions: 1) Your concern is legit. The Carplay module is like an "overlay" on the existing display and your remote/touch/lever control will continue to interact with original menu in the background. I only realized this after using it for a while. There hasn't been any major issue but it did occasionally (I should say rarely) get into settings on the Lexus infotainment. 2) I am not aware of it and don't think there is any connection between HUD and Carplay. 3) The wireless connection is very stable, better than the wired/USB connection, which can occasionally get loose. 4) Until you manually switch to Carplay's audio output (AUX), the audio will continue to play from your current FM audio. 5) I don't have 360 so I cannot confirm. But I remember there were instructions regarding 360 camera on the manual and it should continue to function as is. Safety features shouldn't be affected by this. For example, my screen does automatically switch to rear camera view when I put it in R, even if it's in the Carplay mode. I suppose related safety features will likewise take over when your car is in that condition. But contact the seller to confirm. Hope this helps.

@@profsg appreciate your feedback.

ZF Lifeguard 8 is the official fluid for this transmission. I assume the BMW-branded to be the same but more expensive because of the "BMW" on it. I found the best price on RockAuto.

@@profsg thanks, i was thinking the same

Yes, it does. It's in fact an overkill for this and offers many other features including bidirectional control. I've included in the description a couple of less expensive options from Launch capable of reading trans oil temp.

How many miles on the odometer? I suppose you have cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor, replaced the engine air filter, etc. Any rich or lean condition? Any concerns about the transmission, traction, tire pressure. This dual injection engine doesn't have major issues with carbon buildup... These are what I can think of and here's a summary video on related maintenance: ua-cam.com/video/dZMJty_9iBc/v-deo.htmlsi=A39BIx0UIpN3pIhm Happy to discuss this further.

@@profsg Thanks for getting back to me. The odometer shows 81,000+ miles. I have not touched the intricate parts like the MAF sensors yet. I have changed the transmission fluid, oil and filter, change air filter. Additionally, is the meter unit on your car MPG US or MPG Imperial?

@@nvlong17 Yes, good point! If you are in the US and using US gallons, 17.5 MPG is relatively low even for citing driving. Scan and review your long-term fuel trim to see if you have a condition. Between your MAF and O2 sensors, there might be something you can address. At this mileage, it's a good idea to clean MAF but make sure you use MAF cleanser only and handle it delicately. Best luck!

@@profsg I have the same 2017 RX 350 but the MAF is the new enclosed style with a microprocessor inside. Some recommended against cleaning it. What did you do to clean it?

@@nvlong17 The latest MAF sensor is too delicate to clean. You are probably fine with this sensor unless the engine has a running condition.

Good catch! My vehicle has a tiny track width difference between front and rear, and I had to compensate for that too.

I haven't encountered this issue but you may look into the following two settings. 1) On the Carplay System Setting/Setup, under System, then Display, there are options to adjust Brightness, Saturation, Chromaticity, and Contrast. Double check and adjust them if necessary. 2) There are similar settings on your Lexus screen (original) menu. Hit MENU button, select Display at the top-right corner, then General, and you can adjust Brightness and Contrast there. Hope this helps.

It's a CVT transmission and so far I have yet to find PIDs for ATF temperature on Nissans. If your budget allows it, you may consider one of the less expensive (still above $100) Launch scanners like this: amzn.to/4dlqwMP

Yes indeed!

You're welcome! Glad you liked it!

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

Here is the link to the 86mm Oil Filter Wrench: amzn.to/3Ujtw55 Also in the video description but here is a list of all tools/parts/supplies for this job: amzn.to/4cAzia4 Great to know you are taking things into your own hands! Be safe and let us know if you have other questions.

You bet! Safety features will continue to function in the Carplay mode. For example, it will automatically switch to the rearview camera screen when the car is in reverse and sensor warnings will go off when it's moving too close to objects, etc. However, it won't switch to the A/C display unless you manually switch to the original infotainment mode. That said, on my model, I have physical buttons for A/C, airflow, and digital/number LCDs next to them, don't have a need for this information on the big screen. Does your car have a similar configuration with physical buttons or is it different?

@@profsg Thanks for the quick response! My RX has nearly the same button layout as yours actually. So it has a mini screen for the temperature, but that mini screen doesn't show which mode the airflow is (i.e., air going down to the feet vs. air to the face). I tend to toggle this airflow mode quite a bit, so that'll be a bit of a nuissant I think.😄

Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!

So i am familiar with the temperature process but i am having trouble with something. I started draining while it was cold until it started trickling. Then i started the car until it reached 104 degrees. When i opened the drain plug again nothing came out. If transmission fluid expands why did i get no fluid coming out? There should have been some fluid in the overflow chamber.

@@nightnday6675 I understand what you did and the reasoning behind it. This is not a surprise though. First, I assume you drained/checked the fluid when COLD WITH ENGINE RUNNING. Otherwise, you would have drained too much fluid out. Granted this was followed, one would expect the fluid to expand and more will come out. And here is the other factor often overlooked in this procedure, the transmission cooler BYPASS LINE/VALVE. When one drains it at a cold temperature, the bypass valve is likely closed and some fluid will come back to the sump/pan. The cooler line won't run full circulation of fluid until it reaches a certain temperature and the valve is open again. On BMWs with ZF transmissions, the recommended temperature range will allow the valve to open and circulate ATF in the bypass line. I believe it's a same idea on a Toyota/Lexus. And this is another reason why checking the fluid at the correct temperature is so critical, to take in account the small amount of fluid in/out of the cooler bypass line. Hope this makes sense.

Thank you! Looks like 60,000 miles is the "magic" number for several of these issues now, but hopefully a cable or spring replacement will sort it out.

I discussed this in another video too. Aftermarket fluid like Valvoline Max Life is a very different fluid than WS and doesn't meet Toyota specification. The fact that it claims to be compatible with so many different types of transmission fluid, including Dexron ATF that older Toyotas used, means it's never designed specifically for WS-compatible transmissions. It might be better or worse. But IMHO it isn't worth the risk.

Good question! It's been a common practice but I have two main reasons against it: 1) The premise of the suggested volume-matched approach is that the existing/old fluid in the transmission was at the correct level. While no one would doubt a correct factory fill, chances are over the years the fluid might have been touched or lost/reduced due to a leak, etc. You won't get to the correct level by matching an already incorrect old fluid level. 2) The volume of fluid varies at different temperature levels so you will have to measure both (old vs. new) at the same temperature. I wish there were a simpler method for this replacement. But it's not worth taking the risk given how sensitive today's transmissions are to the fluid level.

Great job staying on top of the maintenance! Glad the video was helpful, and thank you for the support!

Yes, go for the shorter interval (50k) if you are ready/motivated to do it earlier. Just make sure to use the recommended OE coolant, use the correct mix or premixed, and not to introduce contamination in the process. And this is also one reason for the long replacement interval, especially for the latest Toyota super long life: the coolant won't break down for a long, long time unless there is contamination. Doesn't hurt to change it early but make sure it remains 50/50 SLLC.

I believe it's the same part as in the video: Engine Oil Pressure Switch - Honda (37240-R70-A04). You can call your local Honda dealership to confirm or use a Honda parts site like this (enter your car's make/model/year/etc. to find parts): www.conicellihondaparts.com/oem-parts/honda-engine-oil-pressure-switch-37240r70a04?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1ob25kYSZvPXBpbG90Jnk9MjAxMSZ0PWV4LWwmZT0zLTVsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D

@@profsg Thank you. Did you have to pay for a over-ring or did it come with it ?

Yes, the o-ring is a must-have for this replacement and it's purchased separately. Part number in the video description.

Thanks for your support!

I would not consider that even for towing. That's way too thick, compared to the Lexus specification.

You are very welcome! So glad it helped!

What exactly is the transmission/coolant message? It'd be best to run a full scan of the system, know the exact diagnosis trouble codes (DTCs), and check your transmission fluid level accurately. For these purposes, I'd strongly recommend getting a scanner capable for full system diagnosis on BMWs. I've used Launch scanners (not a sponsor) and really like their products, which are truly capable and less expensive. Some of the most budget friendly options from Launch: 1. LAUNCH X431 Elite for BMW (slower, $129 after coupon): amzn.to/49PQbvy 2. LAUNCH X431 Elite PRO for BMW (faster chip, $150): amzn.to/49U1liT 3. LAUNCH X431 Elite for European cars ($209): amzn.to/4bw73c7 I know the least expensive option is still over $100, but they are a must-have to work on a BMW or other European brands. There are other options like ISTA+ software or BimmerLink+BimmerCode combo but none of these are less expensive and they are a bit more complex to set up in my opinion. If you can get one of these scanners for BMW, you will be able to scan what's going on and do an accurate fluid level check. Hope this helps but keep us posted if we can help further.

I'd also like to add that I pumped in at least 5 quarts of the fluid in the 40 - 50 C temperature range. I used 6 quart bottles but some overflowed so I didn't know the exact amount but my estimate is 5 quarts or more. Also very important here, doing it at the correct temperature means TWO things: 1) fluid expands at a higher temperature so the amount won't be correct at a different temperature level, and 2) there is a transmission coolant bypass valve that will open at certain temperature, the premise of the correct measurement is that the valve is open and part of the fluid is going through the bypass. Because of both of these reasons, you must know the ATF temperature before attempting to check the level.

If it's a 4-cylinder engine, which I believe it is, it doesn't have VCM and not affected by this design. If it burns oil, do make sure to change PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve which is the #1 reason for oil burning. Another simple job to do and I have a video here: ua-cam.com/video/uIHNY6AiDQM/v-deo.html If this doesn't completely fix the issue, just make sure you monitor oil level, top it off regularly, and, most importantly, follow regular oil change intervals (5000 miles or 6 months). For an aged vehicle like this, you may not be able to completely fix the issue but good oil may overtime clean up some of the clogged components (e.g. stuck piston rings) to alleviate oil burning. Hope this helps.

Yes, it's a similar design. The same procedure.

@@profsg Cool

Thank you! So glad to hear this!

Perfect! The RainX kit works well for a chip away from the edge, and the amount of resin is great! Best luck!