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@@ken261 : that’s great. I’m glad it worked out. Thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.

@@ed_1969 appreciate it - thanks

@@mistyprice3400 : yeah that’s a tough procedure. Sometimes if you lay the water heater on the ground and put a wrench on the nipples cause you need somebody to hold the water heater while you put pressure on the wrench if they won’t come off, then you can put a flame or a torch on the nipples to heat up the metal, and that can help you to get them off if they’re frozen on there! Good luck thanks for watching. I think I have a couple videos about it.

@@thewaterheaterfactory thank you I've been putting a flame on it but what do you mean by Frozen idk what that means because I thought it would break the pipe and I don't need the break if I'm trying to get it off cuz I want to replace it 😞

@@willpontius2031 : yeah you left out the earthquake straps- definitely code violations going on I didn’t install. It was just there to fix the leak . In my videos when I’m installing water heaters people are looking for the cheapest price possible for a water heater to be installed and they don’t want to pay for all that extra stuff I don’t mind doing it, obviously we’re not getting these water heaters inspected but typically it’s like for like

@@GooGoo007 : eBay has cheap valves - I don’t think you’re gonna find that individual part of a thermometer. You might have to order the entire valve to get what you need so your best bet is to find your cheapest source Amazon or eBay or if you have access to a spot where people drop off used water heaters such as a plumbing supply company often in the back they have a drop off spotand you just cruise over there pull a couple valves off some older Water Heaters especially ones that look like they’re leaking chances are the therm will still be good

@@GooGoo007 : that’s called a PTFE sealant it’s basically like a Teflon paste- it’s also also referred to as pipe dope- Usually Teflon tape or piped up works really well you could stick with piped up. You can’t really go wrong.- thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.

@@thewaterheaterfactory Thank you for the fast response!

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : oh that’s right I forgot I don’t mind using a shark bite or a copy of a shark bite those push on fittings as long as they’re not stuck in a wall someplace as long as long as they’re visible and you can inspect them I’ve had pretty good luck. I’ve only had one leak on me, that was pretty easy. I think I was in and out of there and less than an hour. Thanks again for watching!

@@robbienorquay4916 : I think you just need a new valve- you should kill the pressure to the water heater. That’s the incoming water. We really just need a new valve. I don’t know that the entire water heater needs to be replaced, but that’s up to you.. appreciate the comment thank you for watching!!

I have a ton of spare parts because I use them on almost every job. Thanks again for watching and commenting !! Appreciate it! Have a great weekend

Thanks 😅

Circuit board - could be a gas pressure issue! I've seen those circuit boards tell you the valves are bad when they are not!

@@jeffreyplumber1975 yeah I thought that guy was gonna get a heater for me, but he ended up doing something else I guess or it’s still running

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : yes exactly

But they don’t seem to understand it’s like no you don’t get it even if you patch one side the whole starts on the inside and they see it done in foreign countries - oh hell no

So I would look very closely at your valve and make sure that it’s not cracked. It’s aluminum so sometimes you get these hairline cracks and that’s how the gaskets out. Probably call your local gas company and have them just come out and do an inspection. They have some pretty sophisticated sniffers that can tell you if the gas is normal or unsafe. Sometimes you can smell the gas burning if you have a very sensitive sense of smell, but as far as a leak goes, you want to maybe try and use some soapy water or liquid leak detector and just put it all around the connections and make sure there’s no gas leaking. I typically see the gas valves cracked where the adapter screws in so that’s sort of them where the main amount of gas enters the valve that would be the middle upper left side where the flexible gas line connects to the adapter. Sometimes people put too much Teflon tape on there and they tighten it down and it cracks it right at that point.

@@tmactheplumber4966 dude wanted an almost new water heater installed for pennies- Nope!

@@davidwilson7476 replace the chamber sensor contact RHEEM and they can send you replacement parts

@@thewaterheaterfactory thanks a million guys. is there certain parts i should identify to the tech specialist whenever i talk to them, or just tell them "chamber sensor contact.

@@tylerangieslayton7455 try the reset procedure if the main burner fires up. Otherwise you will need to replace the valve completely.

@@jeffreyplumber1975 naw - yeah easy fix when you get it the first time!

@@iLL_Eaglez : I use a pair of needle nose, pliers to grip the top and the bottom of the connector. Then I hold the circuitboard cover and pull it all out as one even Unit that way it doesn’t put stress on the wires.

@@iLL_Eaglez : for some reason, the connector on my little battery pack comes out easily. It’s weird it goes in and comes out effortlessly and there’s not a lot of pressure or tension so it’s really nice. Just got lucky. I guess- random

@@thewaterheaterfactory apparently the thermopile clamp was stuck to the back of the housing unit..I ended up getting a new complete gas valve with new connections under warranty last week and installed it..having taken apart my water heater a few times already and cleaning it and replacing parts I fully understand how it works. Thanks for sharing boss!

@@dave5334 yeah probably can’t go wrong with the new one most people fix theirs cause they just don’t and I’ll have the money available at the moment. Thanks for watching.

@@BADBRAD1959 thanks for watching!

Of Course - Its condensation that falls onto the burner when the gas (fuel) is igniting usually only lasts for the first 30-40 mins the water heater is running once it reaches temperature the conditions for condensation change but its different with every water heater - depends on engineering and location of water heater temperature of water ext. - I don't prefer the Ultra Low nOX burner Assembly's for that reason the screens are susceptible to erosion damage.

@@thewaterheaterfactory Maybe you can help me understand this hole problem. The mesh itself is not an air-tight design or is it? Wouldn't gas escape from it anyway and burn without holes as well ?

@@tmactheplumber4966 yeah you know I go over that job in my mind and I’m like maybe I should’ve stayed and just put the damn thing in and got paid but at the time being there looking at everything I was just like this this is just not gonna go well, and it probably wouldn’t have. You can’t really see it in the video but those stairs were extremely steep but part of me you know there’s there’s this part of me that’s like I like trying to make stuff work and make things happen. Just make miracles happen but I’m trying to learn to walk away from situations thatare too risky. The guy was trying to lowball me which I hate.

I no longer tackle water heaters with steps that steep. Nevermind putting it on blocks like that type job.

@@matthewfasullo4983 thanks for watching - well it’s San Diego so I’m not sure that that would happen, but I had to pass on this install. My biggest concern was where the heck does all the condensation water go? We’re down in a bowl.

@@thewaterheaterfactory it would need a condensate pump and have a line run outside

You got that right

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : yeah I was trying to tell the owner you need a dedicated circuit just for safety I mean, who knows what else is sharing that circuit a microwave a vacuum cleaner, a hairdryer that breaker would be popping all the time the environment was going into was super humid because it just flooded and those things put out like two or 3 cups of water every single day where is that water gonna go? there was no way to get the condensation line to exit the building because the building 6 feet below grade

@@jeffreyplumber1975 : I don’t even think those lightbulb sockets come with a ground?

A condensate pump brother not that expensive easy peasy ! but the rest of the job in its entirety is involved. I never installed a heat pump but as mentioned by HVAC-dude I belive a metal vent is not part of the program they gotta be plastic I think too. Personally I dont get involved in crunching numbers figuring out whats the most efficient Im not a salesman I can bullshit telling people this is the best way but Im not doing that . also there are unknowns there are huge cost saving rebates for an owner to concider In Ca i think new homes are requiring electric in some areas all that green shit is coming at least in new homes . Progams also exist to train and certify (indoctrine)installers Im not saying it cant be a worthwile thing just that I havent pursued it I am semi interested in it

@@hmc2s good title for a video!

@@InvaderGeoff thanks for sharing ! Those pilot tubes are crazy long. They don’t make them like that anymore thank God thanks for watching.

@@adriansoto16 : I appreciate the comment thank you! Hopefully some of these tips help some people out! Appreciate you watching. Have a great weekend!

@@tmactheplumber4966 yeah that was literally the first time I’ve ever touched a Tankless. Been trying to expand my my knowledge and work on different different types of things to try and keep the money rolling in. Thanks again for watching as always.

@@thewaterheaterfactory thats the spirit ! I thought about tankless service as well not sure how much a basic flush goes for probebly 150 to 200 its an hour of time and vinegar or cleaning solution around 20 bucks my guess I got a pump that i use for pumping out tank water heaters when they wont drain on change outs which I highly recomend if the drain gives trouble easier to pump it out

@@jeffreyplumber1975 yeah that’s how it starts. I worked on 100 gallon water heater today commercial grade heavy duty. I had to watch tutorials on the way to the job site but it helped couple videos on UA-cam because I didn’t know shit about this water heater turned out it was the damper, pinpointed it right away it was great

@@martinconnell8510 I think it was a Norris. I didn’t really pay attention to it. It wasn’t working and they didn’t want to fix it and they asked me if I could remove it and then install the water heater they bought.

Yeah the camera died - Installed the water heater connected ducting owner is going to put on a shed

@@elizabeththompson3286 yeah it’s it. It might only work for a week or two or even less but you could just keep resetting it until you come up with a better solution. I had to reset mine this morning. It only takes 60 seconds to go through the reset procedure I’ve just been too busy and too lazy to work on mine.

@@smolpener7430 : so replacing the thermal pile will not correct a seven flash you need to either make sure that you put a new circuit board on and a new valve body or an entirely new valve. You should not get the same code coming back. If you replace the valve entirely, you can try using the reset procedure to clear it out and then see if it comes back just so you can get hot water in the meantime my water heater at home is currently doing this to me, once every four days, I gotta use the procedure on it .

@@smolpener7430 chamber sensor not the cause

​@@thewaterheaterfactory I replaced the entire valve control with a brand new one from rheem directly. I've been resetting it fine, but it needs to be reset multiple times to get the tank up to temperature. Once the tank it heated, the light will stay blue until someone gets in the shower. After doing the 15 very high, 15 high, 15 pilot reset I found in one of your other videos, it changed from a 7 flash to a 9 flash, and I did 3 different readings on the chamber sensor that came up as 7.7k ohms, 99.1k ohms, and 64.2k ohms. If it's pertinent, after a reset the fire coming out of the burner starts off blue, then slowly turns purple, then red/orange before shutting off, all over the course of about 20 minutes.

After restarting it regularly, by turning the knob to off and waiting for it to discharge, it ran for about 15 minutes, then it shut off and gave another 7 flash code. Another chamber sensor check is giving me 8.6k ohms, and slowly rising over time.

@@thewaterheaterfactory One last update. I replaced the chamber sensor and the 7 flash is gone.