Відео

If you subscribe I'd be happy to get that for you!

@ sure thing, I just subscribed, great job with the video btw! 👍🏼

@@YamahaBros if you’d like to email me the list I can give you an email to send it to

I usually clean and inspect the bearings, and reuse if possible. For the center section, (2x) # 60/28 unsealed with a seal on the brake side # 93105-35025 Drive shaft cover side bearing OEM# 93306-00519 Pinion gear bearing 93306-30317, the other is pressed on the shaft and reused. I recommend reviewing the diagrams from Yamaha below. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/50038869f870021f60a09a7a/1985-badger-yfm80n-parts

@@YamahaBros thank you!

Maybe for the right price. It's the cleanest I've seen.

The early model like this one it's just manual disassembly and grease the gears. Later model runs gear oil.

Right, yours need to be disassembled completely for a proper service. Differentials are neglected and often fails on these machines.

What year is your machine?

Rustoleum high performance Enamel

The engine was blown up and been fully rebuilt. How is that stock?

We could definitely do that for you. Parts and labor would be around $250-300

@@YamahaBros and where are you located?

Upstate NY. You can ship the engine UPS.

Please email us @ koltrida@gmail.com

Hand tight and another 1/8 of a turn is good enough.

Drive it daily!!

Yikes! This happens alot with these quads. Unfortunately you cannot buy replacement gears. The best bet is to find another used rear-end from a parts machine. Good luck!

I would raise the air pressure and see what difference that makes.

I removed the oil injection and run premix fuel. You could have a carbon build up in the exhaust pipe, or running it too rich. The carb should not be leaking, they have Chinese pw80 carbs available cheap you could try that if your carb cannot be rebuilt.

@@YamahaBros it was running way too rich, i loosened to air screw a whole lot and now it idles and runs better. Thanks for the suggestions though. How much did those handlebars cost?

They are klx110 pro taper. Probably around $125

@@YamahaBros Ok

We used a brass hammer on the outer race. No harm done and it looks beautiful. Sloppy comment

images.app.goo.gl/WUevrswvF1ciuKZs6 That is the wiring diagram. Very simple on this bike, let me know what questions you have.

@@YamahaBrosis this the exact one you used i seem to not have most of those color wires. Is there any way I could send you some videos of what I’m working with?

I could send you a picture of what I wrote down of what wires were on what and were they went I could shoot you my number if that would help

It's all side to side play. The nut should be fully tight and there will be no play whatsoever. Then tighten the locknut to keep it from backing off. I check mine before every ride.

What parts are you looking for!? I find everything I need on eBay!

For the right price maybe. In NY

@@YamahaBros is this awd? Can you shoot me the details of the car and do you have photos as well? I'm in ca

It's 1990 Laser RS FWD. Manley forged engine internals. One owner vehicle from Indiana. Very clean 100k miles on chassis.

Thanks for watching, next video coming soon. With a name like @voltman56 you should be able to figure it out! Good luck!

Sunf 17x6x6

We used the originals after some touch up.

Thanks for watching. Crank bearings on most all 2 stroke engines are lubricated with the fuel/oil either premix or oil injected. Not part of the transmission or clutch oil.

@@YamahaBros Thank you for your prompt reply. I have several Puch mopeds, and the E50 engine does run the crank bearing in the oil for the centrifugal clutch on the right side of the engine. The crank seal is then placed inboard of the bearing. The crank bearing on the other end of the crank does indeed run in the fuel/oil mix. Just wondering if Yamaha did the same thing on the QT50. I have 4 yamahoppers, one engine needs crank bearings. Thank you again.

It's grounded to a bolt that holds on the starter.

She hit 31mph! Not very fast but lots of fun.