Відео

4” exact is the lift all the way compressed without the blocks

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat Awesome Thanks!

lol thanks!

Thanks for sharing!! Unfortunately only video I have but basic hand tools and a jack were used to get the job done

@Cut.Weld.Repeat did you have to support the tire and wheel? Ill be on a hoist.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat Toyota validated that this repair, for them included new arm assemblies. $1500 + job instead of $160 in bushings.

2004-2009 Prius. Several other cars/models out there but I found this to be the best one to utilize in my build.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat thank you for the response. Very few people actually reply to their viewers🤙 you just gained another Subscriber ✌️

Thank you! Yes I try to respond quickly to help others. Good luck with the build

Thank you! Took awhile to get it to this point. Bigger things to come down the road. Appreciate it!

You would have to measure your Vette distance to floor and lookup specs on this

I would guess it’s the pin for the trigger to activate the saw. It’s been over a year so I can’t fully recall. However I purposely separated the top screws for the handle only. So that’s my guess

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat Thanks, but I ended up finding out where it went - it's at the end of the metal spring strap that goes around the sprocket. That thing is easy to fly off during disassembly!

Put it in freezer bag for 30-60 mins while doing disassembly. Then I took out, greased it and pressed in with my hands. No special tools

I was just going to ask the same question!

This regulator only takes NPT. I called Aeromotive he mentioned that to me as well until I confirmed the part number for this particular unit. Lesson learned to buy the newer model in the future. Appreciate the comment! Thanks!!

I just spoke with their Tech Support and they said it’s a known problem! Wow! Why don’t they put that note in the instructions?! 🤦‍♂️

​@@Cut.Weld.Repeatit's been known forever too, junk company.

@@Jeromeebappreciate the insight. What alternate brand do you recommend from personal experience??

It’s worth the money if you have a similar set up like mine and you’re using it to do basic maintenance underneath. If you have the space and money, I would definitely get a two post lift. Always better because you can lift higher up and it’s easier to maneuver around under the vehicle. I’m still happy with my purchase, but I just wanna give you another option.

Ok thanks for the info ✌️

If I remember correctly I think I carefully cut it and then beat it off. Honestly I cut so much of the ends off I can’t recall now. It does come off. I think cutting it was easier if memory serves me right

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat I’m trying to stuff one into a 280z and it’s not going well. Hopefully this works.

@@chrishardy6471 I looked back.. between 5-6min mark.. I noted that i cut it off. The larger tube has space you can carefully cut it away exposing the main splined gear. In the end I cut that off as well and made a double D out of it to hook up to a universal joint and to my steering column. Good luck with it! Will be really cool. I was driving the F100 today and love the power steering upgrade. Totally worth it!

Yes to be safe always use a fuse! I used a 14-16gauge wire with a 10amp fuse I believe for my switched ignition wire. For the main positive supply to the unit I used 8awg wire and a 50amp fuse. Wired right to the battery.

Completely agree! Thank you brotha! ✌️

Thank you!

These are great trucks. Built Ford tough

Thanks, good idea! Agree it’s a great saw otherwise

My F100 is 4K lbs. my F150 is 6K lbs so that’s the max. Held it fine for the work I was doing. My F100 has been up on the lift for over a week now, no issues. No drop in pressure etc. has been super helpful to have in my garage

Not that I’m aware of. I even pulled it apart to look at the internal gears. It seems it could turn 360. My trucks steering is the binding point.

@Cut.Weld.Repeat awesome! Just got mine have not had a chance to hook it up yet to see.

@@lukecullett9044 good luck with it!!

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat you already did the work! I just need to follow!

No problem!!

Thanks! It’s so bulky. I’ve debated painting it all black so it blends in more. Currently installed not too bad under the brake booster. I think it’s better then inside the cab for sure

Look back in my full length videos. There is one

Yes I did it by hand. Before you start the job put the bushing in a ziplock bag, into your freezer. This helps it slightly shrink. I also put grease on it before inserting and it went in, no press needed

Thank you so much. Going to do it today!

@@user-wq5ws1qs7x you’re welcome

I believe it’s this one a.co/d/1toRoIt

ISO 46 oil

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat thanks brother, 1 gal enough? was the bleeding process difficult ? did you have uneven lift at any point?

@@dcswings yes it was enough. I just poured it in. No need to bleed.

I like it! I’ve used it a ton on my rear suspension build (check my videos and shorts). Really good machine. I’ve already cut so much had to replace the blades 2x. Very happy with the purchase

@@Cut.Weld.RepeatAwesome! I’m getting into some aluminum welding and fabrication and think I’ll jump on this same setup!

@ seriously a game changer. Much cleaner cuts. I’ve used it to rebuild the whole rear of my F100. Really like this tool

@ I was using an abrasive chop saw and I swear, I’m spending more time cleaning up the cuts than anything! Looking forward to this!

@ same for me. Sold the abrasive saw and never looked back. Only use this portable band saw with stand now for all my cuts. Super clean, fast cuts.

Check out my videos.. rewire hotrod for $50. Somewhere around 3 min mark in the video I show the circuit board mounted up. I think I made my own spacers and used #8 or #10 metric Phillips screws and nuts to fasten it all together. ua-cam.com/video/HO-QQl6Z-Ng/v-deo.htmlsi=MGndKXI_eLVfcNjJ

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat Thank you for the reply. I'm headed to the store to get nylon spacers and long enough 5/16 hardware.

Self bleeding no issues. I used the hydraulic oil recommended in the manual. Had to order off Amazon, not something in my local stores.

Thx. Company did give 2 options 2 bleed. Also went with a synthetic equivalent. Longer life spand. Better temps tolerable. For same price.!

I followed the manufacturers recommendations printed on the inside of the lid, of the welder. Thanks

Agreed! Great comments thank you

I didn’t record it, but it was definitely a bit warmer vs after cleaning it was a big difference.

Thanks for the reply

I came here for this. Thank you!

Thanks

The point being this is the alternative

Agree completely. Was torture testing it

Thanks

🤷🏼‍♂️

Not pictured in the video but it did.

Great advice! Haven’t had to hang/store them yet but that day is coming. Thanks for the heads up!

Yes I do

@@Cut.Weld.Repeat interesting. That's a good way to get a tilt column in I'm gonna look into that 🫡

@@danthisguy8541 thanks. Universal tilt GM column on eBay are cheap. Even if using stock manual steering on F100, use a universe joint adaptor and it goes in. Minor wiring to match up but it works well

@@danthisguy8541 thank you! Cheapest way I figured. Was a fun project. Easy for me to replicate for future builds now

Hi Randy, once you remove all the screws (check both sides) the whole unit splits apart in half, with a screw driver or pry bar. The safety handle bar is also held in place with a few screws. I think 1-2 were really deep so you need a long screwdriver to access. Once those are removed the safety handle comes right out. Good luck with it

Yikes!

Thanks 👍

Good point, will do. Thanks!

lol I know I know. Felt like a 100 but I know Texas and other western states have it worse

Thank you! Much appreciated!!

Thank you!!

I do not but I read in the manual this can happen due to air in the line. Check the manual for the procedure to correct this issue. Mine has worked great so far

I have. Spoke with their cs many times. Did everything they suggested but still have the issue

@@Shl179 that’s really weird. Check hose connections, check fluid. Perhaps an internal issue/blockage of some kind in the fluid tank?

Thanks for sharing! Unfortunately they haven’t changed / addressed the issue with newer saws. Such a shame

My little pruning 6" saw does same thing. After 2 or 3 uses started leaking. Trying to figure out how to fix it. I guess it's a common problem, getting a replacement unit wouldn't matter. It would leak too.