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Sailboat Refit
United States
Приєднався 11 січ 2021
Yanmar 3GM30F Impeller Change
How to change the raw water impeller on a Yanmar 3GM30F engine installed in a cruising sailboat.
Переглядів: 24 763
Відео
Yanmar 3GM30F Fuel Filter Change
Переглядів 24 тис.3 роки тому
How to change the primary fuel filter for a Yanmar 3GM30F engine.
Yanmar 3GM30F Oil Change
Переглядів 11 тис.3 роки тому
A how-to video for beginners on changing the oil and oil filter in a Yanmar 3GM30F motor.
Scupper Ball Issues
Переглядів 2,2 тис.3 роки тому
My dirty scupper balls prevent my cockpit from draining properly.
Yanmar 3GM30F Cold Start
Переглядів 14 тис.3 роки тому
Improving the starting process for a 30-year-old Yanmar 3GM30F by running the starter motor without fuel, cooling, or compression before starting the engine as normal.
Aries Wind Vane Test
Переглядів 1,9 тис.4 роки тому
Sailing with an Aries wind vane on the San Francisco Bay.
What gel did you add to the boats and why? thanks!
What is the hose that goes to the heat exchanger called? Or maybe you know the part number. Thanks, I’ve been enjoying your videos.
I recently purchased a boat with the 3GM30F and found this video very helpful. Would you know if there are zincs on the engine? Manual says there are three on 3GM30 and gives location, but I don't see them as described.
@@robertoppelt4678 3GM30F is the freshwater cooled engine and has no zincs.
Thanks I pretty much had that but the manual was unclear. There is something else small and pencil sized sticking up at the top front of the engine near where raw water travels so was wondering about that, too. Great vids! I plan to follow your fuel filter and bleeding one soon. Final question how much throttle do you find effective when starting? On other boats I would start at idle speed but the manual says to crank it up. (It actually doesn’t kick over so well in idle speed.)
Thanks a lot!
Thanks, that was informative and fun to watch. Your engine is MUCH cleaner than mine, my boat is a derelict Morgan 35 and I am getting ready to fire up the engine, if it will fire up. Otherwise, I'm over 70 and have a large reservoir of learning from the old days and am completely confident in my ability to rebuild the engine, myself. Well, machine shops have tools that I will never have and they know to use them.
Thank you for sharing.
Did you get the parts you needed for this project at the Chelsea Drugstore by any chance?
A few notes to add to perhaps another video. The inlet hose usually comes from a raw water strainer which is a daily check before operating the boat, and it catches any plants/algie (even small fish that make it through the thru-hole-valve. Secondly, on both hoses two clamps is the prefered method of installation. Lastly, I recently completely rebuilt from scratch my 3GMF engine on my boat, which is the 22 hp version of the 3GM30F engine (slighly larrger piston displacement, otherwise the same engine internally and externally, and actually replaced the 3GMF in second half of the 80's). I replaced several external components with new ones, and saved the removed companents (starter, alternator, cooling pump, secondary fuel filter, fuel injectors) as spares, including the raw water pump. I keep the spare completely rebuilt including the flat bracket, and when service time comes, I simply replace the entire turn key pump assy, and rebuild and store the removed one to be the new spare. Saves times and if I find myself with a clogged pump, or faulty impeller, I have one handy ready to go in. Another tinng is the rear cover. If anything foreign goes in the pump past the strainer, the inside of the cover gets scored. This does not produce a leak, but because the impetter clearances are increased, the pump becomes inefficient, which is another reason why I even keep an extra cover handy, along with two or three impellers and gaskets. Cheap insurance. Tough to sail several hundred miles, and finding out the engine overheats when trying to motor to a marina, and finding out, no spare parts are readily avilable.
Your ball dropped.
😂😂😂😂
Among the best of dozens videos that try to explain how to bleed a Yanmar 3GM30 diesel engine. This video is well done with excellent audio, visual, and presentation of information.
Crystal clear. Thank you so much! You are a superb instructor!
Nice ending!! Tres classi!!
Did I miss it....the Filter Number?
I used, from Amazon: Sierra International Oil Filter 18-7910-1 Oil Filter
Thank you very much for the filter number....@@sailboatrefit4145
Did you start on 1 or both?
If your batteries are in working order, either single battery should be fine. If you have trouble, try both. Boats vary - after I made this video I put in a starter battery.
Tip of the day. Install a small heater inside the motor room. Ill start the heater, get my sails ready and start the engine. My way of starting a 30gm without extra gas throttle..
Seems like a lot of work but possibly worth it in a colder climate than San Francisco. The "extra throttle" is per the Yanmar suggested instructions.
Fantastic video !, just what I was looking for...same model filter mount I have...every other video I've found so far had a T-screw on top of mount and lift handles on the filter cartridge?...glad you showed the bleed pump with the white plastic knob on top of mount, that's what I have too, but just thought it was a bleed screw, not an actual pump. Great detail captured in video work too, could actually see bleed bubbles and fuel...nobody else captures that, all too far away and/or filmed by somebody not understanding the job and what needs to be seen...if you did all that camera work yourself, that's even more amazing, well done !! 🙂
Sorry but he missed (in fact got wrong!) The most important fact that you haveto get the rotation of the impeller THE RIGHT WAY AROUND!
Please refer to the water squirting out of the back of the boat at the end of the video.
Beta @@sailboatrefit4145
I see that you sold Sure Shot. What are you planning to get next?
Thank you for the awesome video! Just the info I needed.
Thank you for the great, clearly and thoroughly explained videos!!
Thank you for sharing so much information.
Thanks so much for the great info!
Yea that impeller will be gone in no time. You should at least keep the seacock on
Kind of a pick-your-poison with impeller wear or potential to water lock your muffler/engine, I suppose.
That pump and the alternator are not original from the factory( they should be same colour as the engine), why did you changed them?
The raw water impeller was installed prior to my purchase of the boat. It works well. I replaced the alternator to implement a new battery-power system. You can read about it at sailboatrefit.com/power-update-3-product-selections/
How many litters oil
ua-cam.com/video/VkubzoxP4XY/v-deo.htmlsi=5zV8tPuj-8KdFLKt&t=124
I noticed that the blades on the new impeller were bent in the opposite direction as the one that you removed. Did that turn out to be a problem? Great video. 👍
I noted this as well. Either he noticed and rectified that, or it self-rectified. In either case, take note of the correct orientation! Great video, I've watched this and a couple of others, as I just bought a boat with the same engine, and over 6 months has become more difficult to start, until this weekend it just wouldn't. I suspect a fuel filter issue, and he has a great video explaining that whole system and process. Thanks!!
Impeller blade orientation is not a problem as evidenced by the water leaving the boat at the end of the video. Ensuring the system works properly is a good way to test/demonstrate functionality.
For cold starting, full throttle setting advances the injection timing, but be prepared to reduce engine speed immediately once engine starts. Having the injectors serviced is a must. Unfortunately, the typical injector wear items are now discontinued parts, so expect difficulty sourcing them. Fortunately, a local Yanmar parts dealer had new injectors in stock at a reasonable price compared to rebuilding
Use the pump on the Racor filter assembly to purge air when bleeding the fuel system. It does the job much better.
Not in my experience but would appreciate seeing it work if you have a video.
Yeah no need for all the detail, pump her up from what ever pump you have on the delivery line, a quick splutter don't hurt, diesels are pretty good overall and marine diesels are some of the best. Thought I was watching Marty from the Ozark show for a bit, uncanny!
ONE OF THE BEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE VIDEO IVE SEEN.... MY IMPELLER IS A DIFFERENT DESIGN WITH NO BAR BUT EVERYTHING ELSE IS AS YOU DESCRIBED... GREAT JOB..... I WOULD LIKE TO SEE A VIDEO ON FUEL FILTER CHANGES BY YOU IF YOU HAVE ONE
Check out sailboatrefit.com/yanmar-3gm30f-fuel-filter-change/
I love this already. It's about the tenth Yanmar oil change video I've seen but the first where it started with the basic steps and just went through them. Thank you.
2:21
Excellent information, clearly and concisely presented with excellent video footage. Thank you very much!
Thanks, great vid and very clear instructions. I have placed an outboard primer pump at the tank exit. Pumping this has greatly decreased the anxiety of removing air from the bleed points. I don't need the small butterfly pump.
great video,thanks!
Thanks for showing you turn the water valve off……..
Great job excellent narration
I'm currently refitting an E29
Very nice boat. Thanks for sharing. The traveler is mounted on top of the cabin.. is that working out okay (as opposed to being located in the cockpit)?
More leverage from the Cockpit, less clutter on the Cabintop
The Ericson 32-200 is a cruiser first, racer second. The cabintop-mounted traveler keeps trip hazards out of the cockpit. It does mean that more mechanical advantage is required to adjust the main sheet etc. but no one trips over the lines either.
Great job! The manual was not helpful. I can do this now!
Thanks for the vids. Like most others here, I have the same engine so I've downloaded all 3 vids for servicing tomorrow. Cheers.
I believe the Oceanis 31 has a spade rudder, not twin (dual) rudder.
Both a lifting keel and dual rudders are options on the Oceanis 31: sailtime.com/fleet/beneteau-oceanis-31/
"You can't always get what you want..." thank you for this helpfull video...and good references. Pascal from Switzerland.
I’m running a 29’ it’s awesome
THANK YOU! Without your video I would have never got my engine running again. I couldn’t figure out why the butterfly valve was not working. Repositioned the crankshaft(?) and it magically worked!!
Glad it helped! Have fun out there!
Interesting, I have an 89 2GM20F on my Hunter 335 and yea having cold start issues so might give this a go… doesn’t help that I live in Northern Ireland so it’s never warm lol
Thanks for the video! This helped doing both filters on my 2YM15
An R20P filter is 30 microns. P = Primary (30u), T = Primary or Secondary /Final (10u), S = Secondary / Final (2u). The R20 refers to the housing compatibility, although I don't follow their logic. My R215 Racor takes R15P, T, or S filter cartridges.
Overall a very good video thank you for your depiction however the note should be added about putting the antifreeze back in before you crank the engine
I’m not sure what you mean. Changing the raw water impeller does not require accessing the coolant/antifreeze loop so there is no need to replace any.
The oil pick up is directly under the oil dipstick. If you put a longer wire (than the dipstick) you think you are hitting the oil pan, but you are only hitting the oil pickup. You have to keep rotating the hose and pushing down until it bypasses the oil pick up and hits the bottom of the oil pan. I too was only getting a little bit out until I found this out. Keep googling the engine number and put in oil pickup and you may find it that explains it better.
I like the color of your hat but the flapping halyard is annoying.