Відео

How I do it: Pick your aperture desired; ISO, and shoot in Aperture or Manual mode. Determine a normal exposure; from a "Normal" exposure of the background, REDUCE -1 stop. (darkens background). Add Flash as needed for foreground subject illumination. Remember kids: Shutter speed determines the Ambient light levels; the F/stop+flash determines the foreground illumination. THINK of shots as TWO elements, two "plates": a foreground and a background. Expose for the background, Flash for the foreground.

Honestly the best lens that was ever built. Not for what it was able to do. But how it enabled multiple generations of photographers and videographers to start their journey. I learned photography on the EOS 60D and one of these bad boys. Still one of my favorite cameras. Great video! As always.

Good to hear from you Hayward . Do what you need to do . We will be fine . I figure if you do a video every once in a while , then we will be more inclined to tune in ! Looking forward !

I did Zone System B&W with a 1° spot meter and studio lighting with an ambient flash meter but when I switched to digital in 2000 I discovered it was much easier and faster to just drape white and black hand towels over a gray card representing the extremes and middle of anything placed at subject distance and set my exposure and ratio based on the clipping warning on the white towel and the left side of the histogram and detail seen in the playback on the black towel. Back in 1972 my first job in photography I worked for renowned wedding photographer teacher Monte Zucker who had introduced and popularized using photo-cell triggered off camera flash with a very simple technique to always record a full range of detail in both black suits and the white bride dress: Put one flash on a bracket over the lens on axis for fill and position the off camera flash 45° from the nose of the subjects to create a flattering “short lighting” mask of highlights on the front of the faces. We controlled exposure and ratio on color negative film via distance of lights to subject using a simple baseline test and knowledge of inverse-square law light fall off. We would shoot from 22, 16, 11, 8 and 5.6 feet because like f/stops changing distance by that amount changes the intensity of the flash by one stop. We also controlled lighting ratio by keeping the off camera flash “one stop” closer to the subject which ensured capturing the full range of detail. For example at 11 ft an aperture of f/8 was needed to expose the shadows on the dark clothing with detail and the off camera flash was placed at 8ft to make it one stop brighter and expose the white highlights perfectly. Moving into 8ft for a closer shot the off camera flash, which we mounted on a modified medical IV stand on wheels, moved to 5.6ft to keep the ratio the same (2x Key light over 1x Fill from over the camera - 2:1 incident / 3:1 reflected) and closed the aperture to f/11 to adjust exposure. I used that dual flash technique with flash on bracket and stand from 1972 until 2004 when I switched to the Canon DSLR and purchased a pair of 580ex flashes. I mounted the Group A controller flash on my Stroboframe camera flip bracket with the accessory cord for Fill and used the other on a IV stand I found at a thrift store as Group B Key light. Using my black & white towel test target I very quickly determined that in ETTL mode I needed an A:B ( Fill:Key) ratio of 1:3 to perfectly record a full range of detail but found it better to slightly over-fill with a 1:2 ratio to reduce noise in the background. To control exposure I just turned on the highlight clipping warning and monitored the playback adjusting FEC as needed. For tasks like shooting 200 headshots for our church directory I’d use the Canon 580ex in Manual mode setting exposure and ratio with the white /black towels by: 1) setting aperture, 2) raising Group A fill on camera bracket until detail was seen in the black towel and it wasn’t underexposed on histogram, then 3) raising off camera Group B key until the white towel was 1/3 below clipping when shooting JPEG or just at the point of clipping when shooting RAW.

Hello Hayward, thank you for your update. It‘s good to hear from you. Will wait for the next video. Best regards from Germany 🇩🇪

I know you said no gear reviews but I was curious how you are liking the plug-in Flashpoint strobe that you bought.

Thank you for the update, Hayward! I always look forward to your videos and your knowledge.

Thank you for your honesty. I truly appreciate your efforts to not inflame my proclivity with gear reviews. 🤠 Make a video when you have something important to say, and don't let the al-gore-rhythm create a sense of guilt. I appreciate your efforts.

Hi Hayward, I was about to call the Search & Rescue Team! Good to hear your latest ideas for your channel. Re Gear Reviews: I appreciate your channel because you don't do gear reviews. Re Gear Reviews: Could you consider commenting on new features in new products. For example, Sony launched the Global Sensor. What does it mean? Are you a fan? Did it inside your work. Who is it for. Eg 2 OM System launched an incamera Graduated ND filter and etc. maybe you could provide some comments/reactions to some new ideas being launched within new products without doing a great review. Maybe these could be amalgamated into a wrap video. Thanks so much for your channel. 🎉🎉🎉

I loved the description, thanks a lot

Hi. How the image stabilization working with adapter? I got R8 and it has no IBIS, so adding adapter and an EF lens with image stabilization would work ok?

I need a 70-200, but the only one I can remotely afford is a Sigma EF lens. Hopefully Sigma will be able to make an RF version of it eventually.

I just bot this lens. This is the second rf lens I have now. And the first one is rf 16mm f2.8. I am loving it. No need to waste money on costly lenses unless needed!

I keep my 5DmkIV and my collection of good L and non-L lenses. I have recently bought a R5 on a discount and a RF24-70 F/2.8 IS USM as a supplement. Planning to keep that configuration for a couple of years to come

It has almost been 3 months since this video was posted on YT, and there’s only been one other post since then. As an amateur photographer myself, this has been one of my favorite “go to” channels to learn from. I sincerely hope you keep posting and post again soon! And I’d love to see what you do with oil painting and photography.

Thank you for the review. I just came back to photography, and I'm new to Canon, but I remember my 105 mm f4 Auto-Nikkor. And Kodachrome.

One of the few, maybe, three of the reviewers who made this lens become what it's. Good review and I love it. I have mine delivered on the way....

I will be honest this video did not teach me anything but impatience 😂

Thank you so much for this. Tons of value.

What I do not understand is why doesn't TTL flash work for this. For example, let's say I want to darken the ambient light and make the face stand out with the flash while I am in automatic mode. I can set the ambient let to underexpose by two stops. With my flash in TTL mode I can set the flash anywhere between two stops under and two stops over. It seems to me that the camera, while in TTL mode receives the distance from the flash to the subject with the pre-flash. I have underexposed the ambient by two stops and I have set the flash to neutral ( in the middle of the two stops over or under screen). When I take the shot, using TTL, I do not get anything like when I do it manually. In fact, changing the flash output doesn't seem to make any difference at all. Yet, as I said there is a way to change the ambient in automatic mode and a way to separately change the flash output in automatic mode. Being able to use TTL with these effects would be very handy if the subject is not stationary. Any ideas?

I shoot with a 50 year old Nikon F. Easy, and basic real photography.

I have 3 versions now. The ef 1.2L, the ef 1.4 and the new rf 1.8 the latter 2 you just showcased. The 1.4 will always be my favourite but the new rf does pretty good. I only use the 1.2L for weddings and portraits.

Looove this lens enjoy

The IBIS feature in my r6mk2 even if it's not full. Makes my Ef lenses better.

There's one reason it's so much cheaper.

Let’s see the video on product photography please. Thanks.

Useful information Thank you 😊

I have 2 Godox TT685F and one is dead (never done a photo shoot, less than 100 triggers ...). The other one is working perfectly. Seriously it is impossible to rely on this brand ... Fortunately, it was anticipated and I have 2 of them but it's not a pro gear

Perfect explination

The RF is the Thrifty 50, the EF is the Nifty 50. 😎

I have 24-70 f2.8, do you think 85 f2 will be a nice portrays lens for me?

It’s not lusting after the latest. It’s just having a tool for the job. I went from the 7D and 1D3 to the R7. Mainly wildlife- and as a hobby. It’s like night and day. The R7 IQ is better than the 1D3 - yes, in low light. So the advancement in tech I certainly noticed. I am not a pro, so I don’t mind taking my time to develop images. I have iso 10 000 shots of owls at night that have fine detail and cleaned up in Darktable. I could never get there with the previous bodies. And the AF, IBIS, seeing the image in tge EVF before taking it… just love it. 2years after you made this clip, I am looking at the R5 because the price is so attractive now

Next step: EOS R6 Mark Iii RF 28-70 f2.8 and RF 70-200 f2.8 then go around the world in 80 days then see God to say THANK YOU

But matter to you! To pRODUCE GOOD QEALITY PICTURES YOU HAVE TO CARE!

Shoot it at f2 at night on the street, shoot it at f2.8 during the day, perfect old gem.

Would it be worth getting when you have a 14-35 f4 L lense? My partner wants to shoot some family portraits. Thanks

I'm sold! Thanks! I've been on the fence about getting the "R" this helped a lot.

great video man. you're very well spoken!

No one ever says what settings and mode that you set the CAMERA too!!!

Really good video one thing by changing the F stop you will also change the ambient exposure not just the flash exposure.

From the beginning, when you’re explaining about the constant light in the room I knew it’s the right place for straight & simple way of explanation is coming 🙏👍🏽

I would love to see a video on Imagenomic portraiture 3ai you mentioned in this presentation, thank you

Hi, I shoot a lot of backlit people shots in fairly bright backlit sun at wide apertures f1.8 f2, or wider. I can't see anyway I can keep the shutter speeds in the 1/60 to 1/80 region etc because in order to darken the background my shutter speed will end up around 1/2000 or so to achieve the darker background resulting in having to use HSS I realise that you are talking about non HSS environments but I need to use HSS. Do you have similar or alternate advice when I use HSS Any advice would be most appreciated. Michael

Put the camera in aperture priority mode. Expose for the background. Take note of the shutter speed. Put the camera in manual mode and set the same aperture and shutter speed. Add enough flash to properly expose the subject. That's it.

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How is this lens vs the Sigma Art 85mm 1.4?

Two things: It was interesting to hear you say that you would not use a 50mm f/1.2 lens. And it was refreshing to see a 50mm f/1.4 lens used in a studio. Great images.

Thank you for the informative video. Would this flash work with focus bracketing for macro? I didn't see what the recycle time was in the description. Thanks!

Would the EF version adapted to mirrorless be better for shooting artwork face on and top down than the RF lens?