Відео

i don't see how its any different than ALLL the other LARP-Y shit people do to their Rifles (e.g. ir lasers, NODs, optics/dots, etc, most of which costing > the gun itself) lol

0:18 this is so true. I got an old marlin tube fed .22 from my grand dad for my 18th birthday. I love the thing and all the family that had it way back in the day…..but holy cow, you can literally see where the loc tite originally spilled out from the screws. Thankfully I don’t ever want to change the scope. And I don’t need to adjust it because it’s dead on. But you can bet money you’d never get that sucker of without accidentally stripping or purposely destroying those screws

Years ago I was a dumb arse and used Red loctite to put bases on my Weatherby Vanguard and now this Dick head isn't game too even think about changing them 😒

Loctite is the semen from a superglue demon.

Is it drilled and tapped for mounting a red dot?

Love ya work😊

Us Tradies NEVER use Loctite on small machine screws... we lubricate them and tighten them to the design stretch that they are supposed to have - this keeps them tight and allows easy removal. And they NEVER come loose. Use Loctite Assembly Adhesive, like 680, under your scope base/receiver area instead and keep it away from the threads. And if you think this is rubbish, we couldn't give a shit what you do, go ahead and believe the amateurs in the gun mags.

I’ve had an MDT scope base that came loose twice. Granted it was on a 300 win mag and aluminium base on a stainless steel action. The first time was after a gunsmith had installed it, second time I had torqued it to spec with a fat wrench and done multiple passes. That lasted for a few years. This time I used 243 small amount on the mating surface to “bed” and a tiny amount on the screws and torqued to MDT spec. I had previously heard of people having to bed rails to actions with sako TRGs in magnum cartridges.

There's nothing wrong with using loctite. Treat as lubrication and reduce torque by 30% I've been judiciously been using loctite 222 for 30 years and will absolutely continue to do so.

I use anti-seize more than I use loctite.

The strike industries King Comp MZ brake coupled with their quick release "SI Opressor" blast shield is a great option!

300blk is great but it's for specific purpose, originally designed to be used with a supressor, inside 100yds & coupled with NODS. Yes it will perform well outside of these parameters but so does a shovel when you need a spade. I like my 350L but it does suffer from feed issues, nothing that some feed ramp work and good positive battery on the AR15 platform can't sort out. Yes you can use the .223 AR mags with the 350L but only after some modifications, you have to file down the two guide rails for the follower on the inside of the mag otherwise the 350L will bind against these rails after loading a few.

Im hearing about AXOR Bushpigs blowing apart? Any idea on what serial numbers effected?

What the fuck is a hound crew?

So what you're really saying is "Friction is Good" & "Oil's 'aint Oil's"... THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID..!!

Ed loves jigsaw puzzles everyone hes just being elusive. Make sure when you give him a bag of parts there is no way he can cheat and get it back together easily 😂

Why would you ever want to remove the rail anyway? I have the same setup on my Model 70 for the past 25 years and it's never had a reason to remove it.

Worth noting for the chronic over appliers, Loctite will make some plastic crumble like a month old anzac biscuit, avoid plastic contact

Loctite the world! Had spuhrs come loose. Had RMRs on pistols come loose. Never stripped a screw.

Same for anti seize, friction modifiers on bolts and nuts. Use of these things usually reduces the amount of force required to tighten the fastener to get the equivalent clamping force

Fuck thats a shame. I bought a muzzle brake off him years ago, it was fantastic.

I always use blue Loctite liquid. I always switch things around, take things off move them around and have never had a problem removing Fasteners that have been blue Loctited. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using blue Loctite on bases (I think you definitely should) you should use blue Loctite on scope rings because you can't tighten them up much without crushing the scope.

i have always used nail polish on my scope mount screws, never had a problem of them loosening or removing them.

I’m apart of group of responsible loctite users. Micro dosing loctite can help keep those annoying devices on. But your absolutely spot on about loctite, I spoke to a loctite rep about a year ago and he recommended using only 222. He suggested not using any product on small “sensitive” screws.

For those who don’t want to watch the whole video, the main points are: - don’t over torque your screws - using loctite is fine, if you use the correct one, and the correct amount - loctite 243 is fine on bases - loctite 222 is good for scope rings - loctite red is not very appropriate

Find humor in the idea that the accent comes from a country that allowed their government to take their guns away.

If i have a screw that keeps backing itself loose i use clear finger nail polish it will lock the thread and break free easily when needed and cheaper than loctite.

Lol I'll tack gas block pins.. brakes ect lol never a scope base lmao

The meme at the beginning was, in my experience, way off. Every old-timer I knew rarely used thread locker. If they did, it was pretty sparingly. Most worked on machinery, whether cars, farm equipment, milling equipment, etc. So, they had some level of real experience. Loctite, again in my experience, has become much more prevalent in firearms in the past 30 years, especially in the last 15 years. Now, people worry about loctite and torque numbers for sometimes pointless things. The loctite "epidemic" seems more driven by modern shooters.

I watched a coworker glue a Remington 700 shut by dousing the mount screws with liquid locktite. If I'm installing a mount on something other than a .22LR I'll add a tiny dot of glue stick style blue locktite to the screws.

Idk I use vibra/ tight red, on muzzle devices, and scope bases and rings. Never had any trouble removing the screws afterwards. I can say nothing has come loose though. I like not worrying, peace of mind

Four comments: 1) Great video, cheers. 2) Very important to back off torque if using a compound on rings as the lubricating effect increases thread travel, leading to scope tube crimping 😮 3) I knew one prick that used to dab loctite on the bearing surface of his rings to 'stick' them to his tube 😂 4) Ozzy cunt 🇬🇧

I hate when ppl say, "ive never had to use loctite." or "My screws never come loose." These are the folks you want to avoid.

"snap off the fucking tool" 😅 Loctite blue for me. Pre lock tite...I was amazed at how torque set screws came loose..

Thank you for this information. I deal with lots of student’s equipment that shake loose.

I had often read articles that the legendary Australian Firearms writer the Guru Nick Harvey would say to use Araldite on the mounts and glue them onto the to surface of the action on really hard kicking rifles , especially on rifles one is planning to take on dangerous big game hunting overseas.

When I saw the title of this video I thought what da FHCK 😮? Man you wouldn’t believe it but today i went to the hardware store to get some 243 Loctite and some Isopropyl Alcohol because i recently had my action, barrel, one piece Nightforce Picatinny and steel rings Cerakoted. The gunsmith also used some bedding compound underneath the mount for an even bedding surface. The gunsmith mounted the Picatinny on the rifle. I had used 243 Loctite when i bought the rifle and mount 20 years ago. My question is if I find Loctite on the mount screws what is the best way to clean the screws up and the threads in the action. I bought the isopropyl alcohol to clean the action threads (will that do the job?). Cheers 🍻 🍻

Just had to loctite my rail to reciever after it comming loose twice on me Fierce and Talley pic rail 8/40 ended up using loctite 222 and not a issue since. Recommend torque from fierce was 30 inlb so did 25 in lb with 222 loctite and wham bam shabam and hasnt come loose since

This is fudd heresy

I once sold loctite for one of their national distribution companies (BSC). Each of their products is designed for a different use. Most are designed to withstand force from one direction while being very weak if force is applied perpendicular to what they were designed for. For example a thread locker requires shear strength along the longitude of the thread to ensure that it doesn't loosen. When fastening bearings, it works the opposite way. You want the product to grip the shaft in a crossways direction but be easy to break longitudinally. I hope that makes sense. I've never felt the need to loctite any of my firearm parts.

I agree with you if the manufacturer wanted you to use it it would be in the instructions. Or on the other hand use as much Loctite as you can I may run out of work one day and I'll have the time to fix your f...K ups this is what I tell my customers. I do have one small exception and that is under rails and only master gasket with the finest wipe just to fill any surface marks and irregularities it dampens shock loading. But if people must use bulk Loctite I will charge like a wounded bull to fix YOUR f..kups

Cheap fasteners, never using a torque wrench or using a torque wrench that has been used as a hammer and never calibrated can give you a bit of drama. Used loctite all the time at my old work, used a bit of blue for high torque settings that you actually want to get off, used red for anything permanent, used the purple stuff for anything we we’re actually worried we would strip. All the stuff we used was designed with thread locker in mind and the fasteners were made in Germany. I was always mindful before I put a fastener in to how I would get it out, never ran into any trouble

I'm 3:50mins in and I have to go, but what about spring/split washers?

Can we get a video about keeping wd-40 away from guns

Never needed to use loctite and probably never will as i schizophrenicly change my set ups constanty. Sometime clear nail polish is used to keep stuff in place as you just use nail polish remover

Taipan X review coming up soon? Would like to see if the internal issues you identified with the Taipan Lite have been addressed...

hey Ed, another great video. Recently Purchased a Vortex red dot for my pistol - came with multiple sets of screws for different slides. All the fasteners came with blue Loctite pre applied to the threads in the packet. The manual lists 14 inch pound. Now I Know I'm asking you to mind read here but do you think its safe to assume that's listed with the understanding of the pre applied thread locker ? Understand I'm slightly paranoid as this optic mounts direct to the slide without a mounting plate and I really don't want this to come loose or worse, snap in the slide.

Excellent. RockOn.

Like you never had screws come loose. But a mate had a problem with rings coming loose no name ones fixed it with green bearing mount in between the action and rings and installing new screws but still nothing on the threads. Maybe just my OCD but it shits me using ill-fitting or incorrect sized tool for torquing down I don't understand that people think that imperial and metric Allen keys are interchangeable.

I'm gonna have to play the devils advocate here... As a qualified mechanic whose whole trade is basically fasteners. The only role of threadlocker is to increase the fastener's ability to maintain the initially applied torque setting where vibration and, to a certain extent, heat are involved. It will not affect the measurement of torque applied to the fastener during installation. Whether it's necessary in firearms is definitely debatable .In the typical use case, its use is questionable only because of the short acting nature of the vibration felt by a firearm. In the automotive industry (and other machinery), vibration is a continuous reality. In firearms, it's typically a singular impulse event every few seconds with a little resonance afterwards. I would argue that it can't be a bad thing, as long as the correct product is used as designed. But it's likely not necessary outside of fully automatic weapons that will see sustained fire.