Відео

they are both held in by a central bolt at the bottom if the windscreen area behind a plastic cover

@@justmakeitwork5005 Thank you so much for this . Had a look and discovered a plastic cover to take out and loosen the screw to take it out . Thanks

@@dj0men666 wahey! Congratulations. Am up to 130,000 still driving it furiously ☺️👍

@@justmakeitwork5005 had the oil light again on way to mot place and knocked it off sharpish - heart sank. Took solenoids out and cleaned with kerosene and operated em with battery. Bobbed em back in and its ben spot on since thankfully! 🙂😅 flew thru mot. Done first oil change and on second lot of running in oil now to bed new rings in up to 500 mile. Fingers crossed for that crank case sealant. Running awesome though up to now. Really smooth. 👌 buzzin to have it back.

@@dj0men666 awesome enjoy it!

I don't believe so as the block is some form of aluminium

Yep i just had sump etc off (ballache now back in) and it was timed up wrong!! Glad i realised that. Wonder what it would have done… get the bugger bacl together again tomorrow now.😂 want it bacl on road for summer being a comvertible. Hope it bloody runs after alll this.

@@dj0men666 exciting times! glad you saved it with a timing check, fingers crossed! I've just serviced mine at 120,000 front exhaust flexi joint has a hole next to it, just ordered a welder :-) will check out bimmerzen, hope it runs ok!

Thank you. It's still going 118k, due a service. Off the top of my head something like £750 I think.

I laid on my back under the car, and mauouvred it up and on with my knees!

@@justmakeitwork5005 oh..man. That means I can also do that))) I am repairing the same engine now)))

@@tarasostapenko9797 ha ha! Have fun!

Still getting it! Changing the egr is my next effort, in such an awful place though, will wait till the weather improves as it drives fine.

@@justmakeitwork5005 ok thanks.. People say either front seal or PCV. Let s see.

@@justmakeitwork5005did you manage to fix it, im currently struggling with the same problem😂, awesome series by the way

@@emilio7741 thank you. I think I did manage to fix it for a good while. Now I have it back, I think the egr is failing need to investigate but its in such an awful place I've been ignoring it 😁

@@justmakeitwork5005 yeah i been suspecting the egr or the ccv valve, but yo change that you must change the whole valve cover

Oh, wow! Hi from Appalachia.

im wondering whether any of the other liquid gaskets would work and go through the injection port and I'm gonna have to push some in via the crank seal too. Cant be far off all the way around given it came out the other side.

@@dj0men666 no I wasn't aware of the injection procedure at the time. I just laid a bead in the groove and put it together, seem to have gotten away with it 😳

@@justmakeitwork5005 nice! The loctites right masty stuff as well. Warning all over it but was too small to read and dint have glasses. Bad for lung and skin irritation. did you use the loctite or a generic liquid gasket? Ultra grey is an option im just worried i start putting it in and cant get it round properly and endeds up half done. Not a fan of this part of the design. Wouldnt be too bad if you got enouggt for both sides and some spare! Be cheaper injecting liquid gold 😂

@@dj0men666 I used Loctite 5970 which I think is the proper stuff

@@justmakeitwork5005 as you added sealant before joining the bedplate u might have been ok using that. In my case it all now sealed so i need an anaerobic sealant. The loctite 193140 only comes in 6ml and seems thats just enuff to do a side. Cos of the incident and soullage i need to go in from the crank seal as well as a full side. Im thinking of getting the kg745 from farnell ive found. Looks to do same job with similar properiies and 50ml to help me fill her up. Concerned im not gonna get a full seal but the though of dinsantling it all again now and need all new bolts again horrid. I was able to push the sealent thru injection port with my finger so ought to be able to do from crank seal too. Gonna be gutting if it fails on this after all this but least it ought to be visible if does as its at crank end. Hopeful it will work though. Bloody cars hey!! 😂

A pleasure, have fun!

Can you tell me what type of RS232 cable to use? I'm using nomal and null but still can't connect.

@@HAi-123 I used a 'null modem' cable

I still can't finish it. Can you show me another detailed video? Thank you

@@HAi-123 check com port and speed settings in both 'device manager' for serial usb adaptor, and bss software. It's in the video. Hope that helps

Thank you. Still going, so far 😁

@@justmakeitwork5005 with the effort you did it should last for a few miles!! I have the same n43 engine and just got the timing chain done.

Thank you, yes there is a groove for silicone sealant

Yes, indeed. Did you do it? If so, what type of silicone did you use? BTW, Is the engine still running OK?

@@MemberMember-rb2wt I believe it was Loctite 5970, still going!

Did you use a syringe to inject the Loctite sealant into the groove ... or did you just lay it in the groove before putting the lower case back on the block Reassuring to hear that it is still running! Any sealer on the Sump Gasket?

@@MemberMember-rb2wt I just laid it in the groove, I think you are supposed to syringe it though. Just the gasket on sump. I can't claim expertise or best practice but it is still running........ So far 😁

👍 Did you get your beemer going?

@@justmakeitwork5005 waiting for some parts coming from Odense. Ended up doing a full rebuild. Had the crank, pistons, flywheel etc all balanced etc, ive lapped valves, complete strip down and cleaned, new crank, new rod, but waiting for rings, new tappets to replace the weak ones, engine seal and injection nozzles etc... got all bearings etc. Need to double check clearance Oh I've honed the cylinders ready for new rings too. SO final clean then start to reassemble with the bits when they come! Hope it all works - oh new clutch as well as other was looking ready. Suspension looks ready too so might do that while all in bits. Be like a new motor when I've done. Least its Euro 4 and ULEZ compact for that silliness. Will let u know how it goes. Thanks for asking :)

@@dj0men666 wow, proper job! Good luck with it.

@@justmakeitwork5005 one of those things where you’re loke well ive taken that off so i might as well do this and if im doing this i might as well do that too 😂 so long as it all comes together ill be happy.

Fine as I'd already changed them, I put the replacements back in

Ha! I had to watch a bit to remember, tyre lever wedged between bolts, take note bmw! Didn't use timing tools to dismantle, did a lot of miles in it last week, handles so good when you throw it at roundabouts compared to the mondeo I'd been driving, keep going it'll be worth it!

@@justmakeitwork5005 nice one thanks - ill see if i can give it a go :) got a metal bar i can use. Been a long time since i drove mine as it was parked up ages looking sad - hope i can resurrect it! :)

Maybe 2 to 3hrs, it was surprisingly easy, most of the electrial connections are different, or how the cable lies gives you a clue!

Sounds like my kind of mower! I've never seen one with a starter motor

​@@justmakeitwork5005 yeah me too they seem uncommon there are no pictures or videos of my mower I think I might need a new coil as there is still no spark

PS - I know what you mean about the self inflicted fight. Coul have just got shut but I want to save it. Its like us v the car and not being beaten. Hope I can remember how to put it all back together again - pipes and wires and connectors galore! :D

I did reuse the sump gasket as it hadn't been on that long, reused front and rear main seals, and timing chain e.t.c. for same reason. I had to cut the exhaust bolts. Yeah first time i've had an engine out, everything so much easier on a stand. Used 2.5ft of extensions when undoing bell housing bolts just to get ratchet-ing room. Stretch bolts from www.schmiedmann.com. Normal people aren't brave enough to try! enjoy it! :-)

@@justmakeitwork5005 think I've cracked all but one of the bellhousing nuts - just the one at 2 o'clock to do i think... i moved onto exhaust manifold. Gonna try just taking it off at the manifold instead of the zost. Got a stand and all the lifting gear ready so just these last couple of bits off and we should be in business. New timing chain going in too and crank off for polishing and mayby a grind plus replacement rod. Im pottering on it when i get chance to be fair. Snails pace. be good to get it done in June though cos its a 320i e93 convertible. Do you have to make a bracket to undo crank bolt or is the cam locking tool enough? Are the stands man enough to hold the engine while doing the torque on the crank bolt?

@@dj0men666 I'm sure it's not officially BMW technique but I put the flywheel back on, put one of the bolts back in place, then used another bolt sat in place vertically to lock with the flywheel teeth. Did it on the stand 👍

yes, they were the old ones just put in situ, I had to wait a few days as some dufus forgot to order new ones! deformed conrod cap is impressive!

@@justmakeitwork5005 yeah it chewed the bearing up nicely. Got new bearings and was polishing crank is situ as it looked saveable. Was doing nicely then thought id check clearance with plastigauge to ensure I wasn't taking too much off but the cap and bearing were binding and wouldn't go back flush in/on the journal - talking say 1mm but its enough to stop it so engine out it is as its probably impossible to swap a rod in situ! Get the crank done proper as well at same time.

@@dj0men666 I did very little actual measuring, my first engine rebuild, plenty I would do differently next time, but 600miles in still going, so far....... Good luck with yours

I believe the maximum of 0.01mm is for ovality and taper of the cylinder bore

Yeah I see now your measures are out on the ovality, but you could change the sleeves you know.

@@arvidhaug5283 I didn't think that was a thing as it's an aluminium block. Either way I picked up another block for £120 it's in the car

You're crazy! 😉 You can just unbolt aircon pump from engine and move to the side leaving gas lines connected. I think taking the front end off would have made getting it back in much easier. Good luck!

I've done a rebuild with a 'scrapyard' block off ebay, about to put it back in, hit and hope. You don't need to undo the crank bolt to change the rod bearings, just take the sprocket off the oil pump, (left hand thread!)

@@justmakeitwork5005 yeah i managed to get past this now. One of the journals a bit marked so im in polishing mode atm and waiting for bearongs and plastigauge kit. Ive also a damaged bolt from the oil pump… did u put new bolts in the rods and oil pump? Struggling to find oil pump bolts. I need the crack bolt off to do the timing chain. Might leave till end if it wont break wuthout much movement of engine. Dont wanna bend anthing. Hope your block is a good un. 👍

@@dj0men666 thank you, I did new rod bolts from here www.schmiedmann.com/ good luck!

No just coked up

Mine too but its not really necessary

lol......sounds like you just want to get me into more trouble!

Yes , changed injector

@@justmakeitwork5005 I tried an index 12, thought it wasn’t good. Then put my old injector back becuz it was good last time I just upgraded. They both still leaky n fouled out my plug. Possible it could be wiring/ dme ?

@@SauseItUp54 as I understand it, each injector needs to be coded to the dme for flow rate and response time

@@justmakeitwork5005 yea I coded them too but got the fault code also

@@SauseItUp54 ouch, the fault code is for 'activation'. I would try swopping in a known good injector from another cylinder. That will tell you if it's wiring or dme

Yeah balancing shafts need to be timed, theres a tool in the timing kit that slots over the ends. Should be able to find 'bmw tis' online, or haynes. Good luck!

About 70k miles

@@justmakeitwork5005 It's mine blowing how much effort you put into fixing this car. Have you still got it? Some say the long service intervals are what cause issues with this engine. I'm changing my oil every 6000 miles. Just subscribed!

@@Framus-wm3ye Thank you, yes still driving it, up to 98k, mine hadn't seen much servicing, cheap for a reason!

Thank you. I got the injector on ebay but from a BMW dealer.

It was fine, long breaker bar, you need to lock the flywheel, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124638442306, manual gearbox.

used these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162229887678 just described as 'std' size, I believe you would use oversize bearings if the crank had been machined. There were no colours on them, I remember googling it to try and understand and reading something about the colours relating to slight tolerances for original assembly, how true that is I don't know. I figured i didn't have much to loose at that stage so chucked them in. Conrod bolts www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1962465-new?product=11-24-7-516-808. Smoke machine www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113236495959.

@@justmakeitwork5005 great thank you. Will let you know how i get on myself. Wondering what horrors i may find when i strip it down. Bearings out of stock at the mo but want to see whats what before i by anything anyway. if crank buggered then be easier and cheaper to find a recon one thats all ready to go in maybe.... BUt then i wonder if the other bearings may have suffered also. Think i'll need to get the whole engie out at that point anyway so would find out. Never gone this deep with an engine before so its a voyage of discovery :) Got to look at it as a learning project otherwise cost outweighs the value of the car i think - but if i manage to do it, it ought to run for another 10 years until they ban combustion engines lol

deffo dropping the service intervals to 6000 if i get it going - that long life use based interval stuff is not fit for purpose with these engines

@@dj0men666 Good luck with it! Yeah if mine had gone near a garage it would certainly have been 'beyond economical repair' you may aswell have a go if you mostly enjoy that kind of thing!

@@justmakeitwork5005 we’ll find out how much i enjoy it when its in bits on the floor 😂 thanks for your pointers.👍

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233856694843

Thank you. Surprisingly easy to change the bearings, though a little scary for a novice! On stands yes, crank looked to be unmarked, used these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162229887678 just described as 'std' size, I believe you would use oversize bearings if the crank had been machined. There were no colours on them, I remember googling it to try and understand and reading something about the colours relating to slight tolerances for original assembly, how true that is I don't know. I figured i didn't have much to loose at that stage so chucked them in. Have fun!

@@justmakeitwork5005 yeah based on the engine code stamp you can work out the right bearing to use. Maybe that is just for the n54 where ive seen that. Higger performance engine aint it so maybe more crucial. Hope my crank isnt mangled.its not spun one yet so hopefully not. But uts the slight knock im concerned about. Aux belt off first to make sure its not a pump or sumat.

I hardwired the maf, which may have been a bit drastic but I couldn't find a new connector. It made no difference in my case, I then smoked the intake again, and turned my attention to the intake boot, which is worn and damaged from previous incorrect fitment. Made sure the hose clamps were good and snug, it's happened once in 500 miles, might get a new boot. Good luck!

@@justmakeitwork5005 okay, thanks for the fast reply, I’ll try cleaning the pins if that doesn’t work I’ll take it to a shop

Not yet! I hardwired the maf, made no difference, It's happened 5 times in 260 miles, still scratching my head!

@@justmakeitwork5005 have you checked for bank 1 bank 2 sensors oxygen nox take them out give them a good clean , do a emissions test with an autel , im sure there is a maf eliminator