Відео

@@mexitechnology7838 I don’t know if one person can get a side-by-side like we were driving, but they had quads too for one person drivers.

@@tcsadventures Thanks amazing content

@@mexitechnology7838 Thanks! Much appreciated!

@@MrMkirk23 I buy most of my OEM Tohatsu parts from East Marine LLC. Typically they charge $5 to ship light weight parts to my location in CA. You can find non OEM gaskets on Amazon and pay less. The link below is for part #332 6006 1 (which is superseded by same number but last digit is a 0 instead of a 1). The page lists all the motors that the gasket is compatible with. My motor is a 2012 9.8 MFS A3. See link below: www.tohatsu.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1000_1164_1168_1169_15874&products_id=101092

@@jessnevares7861 Lol! My wife is Mexican & Japanese.

Got it. Mexicanese. 😊👍 We are heading up to mammoth tomorrow. 😊 Enjoyed the video.

@@jessnevares7861 Have a great time!

@@christianspain3015 Thanks! Hope it helps!

@@walkerphillips4203 You may have already fixed your problem… I have not had your issue, so I don’t have any experience with it. But I found 2 articles that claim it can’t be adjusted. The first involves a Tohatsu 9.9 (?) and the person claims he’s a mechanic and does give some pretty convincing details. (particularly covering other carb issues) and Includes a parts/service diagram. https:www.justanswer.com/boat/5bbfk-adjust-fuel-mixture-tohatsu-9-9-hp-stroke.html The other is just a lay person. forums.ybw.com/threads/tohatsu-9-8-outboard-stalling.356296/ Even if you have an adjustable mixture screw - you can cause a lot of problems if you don’t know how to make a correct adjustment - particularly when the problem is actually something else. Let me know what you find out. Good luck!

@@tcsadventures thanks for this! Exactly what I needed for future work. Turns out the carb really was gunked up. It’s clean and running great now! Loved this video too, I’ll be taking these steps every time now!

@@walkerphillips4203 It’s definitely worked for me. I constantly had carb problems before and now I never do.

It’s $50 on Amazon. $10 new is really cheap if it’s actually a Nordic waffle iron. We haven’t had any problems with the handles.

@@tcsadventures The ad has 4 pictures of the waffle iron and 2 are of the gray box and cornmeal with blueberry compote waffle recipe. Looks legit to me, and I think I'll pull the trigger on it! Thanks for your feedback, tcsadventures 👍

If you’re referring to the engine oil drain plug: it’s a metal washer and I didn’t replace it. I don’t know the part number. If you’re referring to the lower unit gear oil drain plug and level check screw gaskets: At 8:58 on the video I explain that I’m replacing them and show the OEM package with part number on the screen. The OEM gaskets aren’t metal, paper or rubber. Maybe some type of fiber.

Only a couple of small things. The heater stopped working and an emission sensor. Both covered under warranty. It’s been a great vehicle! We drove it from CA to TN camping across the country. Check out the video of us rock crawling in the Mojave desert. It performed really well.

@@tcsadventures wow, Hays great. It's only been a daily drive for us currently. Daughter took it to Virginia and back, for school. I'll check out that video. Thanks for feedback, and safe travels.

Thanks for the feedback! I’m on my boat right now varnishing… the work never ends. Let me know how it goes.

Lol you always take Vicky’s side!

Thanks! Much appreciated!

That’s a great question that I don’t know the answer to. I found info on the torque for the cap screws, but not the drain plug. It’s surprising how hard it is to find torque specs.

@@tcsadventures Yeah! it seems just tighten it enough like you did should be enough. Perhaps ARB should publish something.

Other than that, how did you like the video lol? I think they were medium to medium rare. I like to cook them in the oven to get the center done. The Coleman oven does a pretty good job.

I think an old stone basement would have been a big improvement from what my boat smelled like when I bought it, lol! Did you just spray the Odoban on everything or did you scrub/clean everything with it? I’ve never used it.

@@tcsadventures Hello, We soaked the cusion covers in a bucket with the Odoban mixed in. It was instant. They went under water smelly and came back up free from odor. We also mixed up some for a spray bottle and used that to wipe everything down.

I’m glad it was successful! Enjoy your Hunter!

Still getting over the jet lag… we saw so much I think it’s still sinking in. Yep the history was fascinating!

You’re welcome! I hope it helped you complete your project.

I have no complaints about the way my CJ drives now. Superlift was a big improvement over the Rough Country springs. As to the shackle angle, I left that to Dustin. He works almost exclusively on Jeeps so he’s the expert. I can tell you that when I do the work myself (more on my sailboat diesel and outboard than my Jeeps) I almost always talk to tech support. I would rather get the manufacturers advice than opinions on line. Whichever shackle you go with you can call tech support and usually get great advice. In terms of an update, after the new lift, shackles, and steering upgrades - the jeep rides and handles much better. I had really bad bump steer before the upgrades and the RC springs were so stiff it felt like riding in a covered wagon (or at least what I imagine a covered wagon felt like). Thanks for watching and commenting!

I believe the owner’s manual tells you to have the motor tilted down. If I had used muffs to cover the water inlets or gotten the water pressure higher it probably would have worked. It’s so easy just to run the motor that I didn’t work that hard to get it to work. Someone that does it all the time without running the engine will eventually enlighten me. Thanks for your question!

I’m obviously no expert, but I don’t think that would work for a variety of reasons. That hole is too small to get in the volume of water needed and the motor is designed for the water to come out of the pee hole - forcing it to come out somewhere it’s not designed to, probably isn’t a good idea. I stick to the owners manual and tech support. But like I said in your other comment, someone will educate me on how to do it without running the motor. Probably water inlet muffs. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for your comment! Not sure if you watched the video, but at the 58 second mark I put “2GM20F” on the screen below the shot of the engine. True the title is the generic 2GM20, but for an oil change and fuel filter change it’s irrelevant. If the video was focused on the cooling system then obviously the fact that it’s also fresh water cooled would be relevant. Thanks again for your comment.

I just posted another video with my mom from Spain that you might enjoy. Hope you like it!

It’s a delicious pie. I wish I had one right now!

This comment was for the Russian tea cookies!

Thank you!

I’m glad it helped!

Thanks!

I can only speak from my personal experience. My Hunter is a 1991 and I’ve owned it for 23 years. I haven’t had any problems with my Yanmar. I think most diesel mechanics would say that 2 of the most important maintenance issues for a diesel is clean air and clean fuel. Keep the air filter clean and your primary and secondary fuel filters changed according to the maintenance schedule. I probably don’t put 50 hours on my engine a year, but I change the engine oil, oil filter and fuel filters every year. I change the reduction gear oil probably more often than I need to. Regularly inspect the raw water pump impeller and replace as needed. Of course there are lots of other things to maintain and some complex work you may want to have a professional do. But Yanmars are reliable popular engines installed in many high production boats and farm tractors. If you take care of it - you should have years of trouble free use.

That’s interesting! Would you mind sending me a photo to tcadventures2@gmail.com

Yikes! Those problems may be unrelated. I would get the OBD read to see what the computer diagnostic faults are. I may be telling you what you already know, but most auto part stores will use an OBD reader on your car for free and either give you a print out of the faults or tell you what they are. You can also buy OBD readers fairly cheap that work with smart phone apps. That should tell you what’s causing the check engine light (probably related to the power loss). I would be surprised if the power loss has anything to do with the sway bar light blinking. Have you tried checking to see if the sway bar disconnect works? You need to be in 4wd first and then toggle it on. You may need to move your steering wheel or move forward to see if the light will go solid. Don’t drive in 4wd on dry pavement. If the light is solid then your sway bar is disconnected. If you can’t get it to go solid then you do have a problem with your electronic sway bar disconnect. I have heard a lot of people complain about the electronic sway bar on Rubicons. They start blinking, won’t work… and then they find water in them. If someone owned it before you maybe they did some water crossing. Or I suppose driving over water on the street could do it too. I think they were poorly designed. I’m guessing you’re outside of warranty (no extended warranty). I would start with the OBD and try to use the sway bar disconnect and see if it works. Good luck!

@@tcsadventures appreciate the quick reply! Thanks again, I will get the OBD reader to check if anything comes up. I live in Puerto Rico sometimes roads could get a bit flooded. So maybe that could be it maybe it has water in it. But thanks again I’ll keep you posted!

Thank you for the kind comment!

I’m assuming you’re talking about the lower unit drain screw and the gear oil level check screw. The motor oil drain is a bolt. If it were me I would first spray some PB Blaster or something similar on it. It may not penetrate enough to help but it’s worth a try. Then I would get my largest screw driver (that still fits the screw slot) to get some leverage to crack it open. Using an impact screw driver you risk stripping the slot or breaking off the head of the screw. Then you would have to use an extractor bit to get the remaining screw out. If you use an impact I would put it in the lowest setting and see how it goes. Good luck. Let me know how it goes.

Exactly, they are slot screws and probably should be hexagon headed so that you can get some serious torque on the bolt. Thanks for that I was worried about using the impact driver. I have tried WD40 with no success and I bought an extra large screwdriver again no success. Do you think heat (hot water) applied to the area might just shift it?@@tcsadventures

Have you already seen this thread on The Hull Truth? www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/830907-stuck-lower-unit-oil-fill-screw.html If the slot isn’t stripped, a lot of people suggest using a screwdriver and a wrench on the handle - and tapping with a hammer. If you have a good outboard shop I would call them for suggestions. Mine’s on my dinghy year round on the water - for 12 years now. Knock on wood, I haven’t had this problem yet. Good luck and keep me posted. Really interested to see how you solve it.

Brilliant, thanks a lot, hope this helps others seems like a common problem. @@tcsadventures

Really? How much did they go up? I will say that I like them. I didn’t get JW headlights because they were crazy expensive.

Northridge4x4 has them.going for $250.48 currently. But found them "used" in like new condition on Amazon for $142

It’s a recovery traction board.

tnx a lot ❤️❤️❤️