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Hi Rolf, Unfortunately, this video will NOT help with your style of drum switch. Please do not try to follow it or apply it to your wiring as that would not work, and could cause electrical issues or damage. This video is very narrow to the specific wiring found inside of the Schneider switches, but the wiring you are describing is an alternate style found in some competitor's drum switches. I don't have a video for those. But there is a number of diagrams available online, as well as some good discussion about how they work. (primarily in woodworking forums). Hopefully they can get you sorted.

@@joelteacheselectrical Hi Joel, Thank you for the heads up. I was not aware of different style of drum switches. So far, I only have encountered this type drum switch. The motor run before with this drum type. I have a lathe for over 30 years. The motor started making noises on startup. I went to an electric motor repair shop and got a raw deal. Instead of changing capacitors and switches, he said it’s shot, we can rewind it that is lower in cost than a new motor. But the windings were not the problem. After the rewind it made loud humming noises. When I took it back, he said it’s the bearings. It could not be, as the bearing did not make noise before the rewind. He changed one bearing but could not replace the second one. It was seated to tight. The humming noise form the windings did not go away. He sold me a new start/stop switch, Model RS-1A. It was the same type as the old one. A new motor was needed. Starting would no longer work after only three years of low usage (made in China). Turning the chuck by hand and switching it on, the motor kept on running, this worked in both directions. My switch has 6 contacts. Counting the 3 rows as 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6. Wire connections: Vertically down #1: power L1, #3: empty, #5: power L2; second column: #2: T4, #4: T8, #6: P1 BK from motor. Wires T2-T3-T5 were joint is the motor box. Connecting T2/T3 and T5 to post #3 has the same effect as joining T2-T3-T5 in the motor box. 3-wire set-up: Flow dir. 1: L1 to 1,2, to T4-T2/T3 to T5/T8 to 4 to 6 to 5=L2, Bypassing overload switch, Flow dir. 2: L1 to 1,2, to 4 to T8/T5 to T2/T3 to T1 to 5=L2, Flow is though overload switch, I have to make the flow direction 2 the primary rotation and direction 1 the little used reverse. Using another type switch as per the Schneider video that can connect horizontally point 1-2 and 3-4, at one switch setting, and at the other setting join vertically, only serves the purpose for both rotations to have the overload switch included. It may not be worth the cost of this different switch. I searched the Schneider website but did not find either switch on my first look. Thanks for your posting, is very much appreciated.

That sounds like a mess on the motor issues! Your analysis on the flow directions is 100% correct. (Dir 1 bypasses the OL, and Dir 2 incorporates the OL). That will work for 3-wire connection for this Motor. Your description of how you could start it in either direction by powering on and giving a direction twist tells me that the issue was associated with the start winding. The start winding is used to set the initial direction of rotation, and is only in the circuit for for a second or two before it gets cut out by the centrifugal switch. So for some reason, that winding was not engaged on startup. It could have been any one of the following problems: Start winding broken internally, Centrifugal switch stuck in the open position, Wiring for T5 or T8 open, Drum Switch contact 4 not making contact.

​@@joelteacheselectrical On the first motor problems 3 years ago, I was not familiar with the Motor circuits. Today he would not be able to talk me into rewinding the motor for no reason. Anyway, that was education money. I was trying to see if the 5-wire set up would allow both directions to include the OL. I can’t find a clear solution. I trust such circuits would not work with the RS-1A motor switch. BTW, is there a name or part number of the switch used by Schneider? Calling the motor directions, A and B, is more intuitive than 1 and 2 as switch points include the numbers 1 and 2. I use the same power connections as the 3-wire diagram by AG2 where #1 & #5 are line L1 & L2. Comment: In this 3-wire diagram by AG2, connecting L1 to T4 is not really possible, I think. Perhaps his switch will work? L1 has to go to #1 and then to T4, or the circuit would always be energized and the motor can’t be switched off. Thanks for the good list of possible failure points. Great stuff.

Lol. Thank Covid that made me record them! No sense hoarding those, so happy they're out there and hope they help.

Glad to hear you're up and running with this! Test sizing as a part of as grouped shape is a locked attribute. Which means it will not scale when you adjust those parts, and this is the reason why I usually try to draw my templates close to my final working size. You can always select the template and just adjust the text size in the toolbar, but it will apply to all lettering in the shape. There are only 2x ways to get around this, and neither is elegant. One would be to create each letter as a lineshape and stack them in manually using alignment and spacing options. Then they would scale. But that takes forever for layout and kerning. The other option is to use the windows snipping tool and select the written text as shape, save as a jpg, and paste that back. But it will granulate as you change the scaling. I wish there was a fast answer, but Text will always be the bane of this software. My best advice is to try to do your original templating as close to the final desired shape as possible.

@@joelteacheselectrical OK it seems like thats what I was coming up with too a few answers I found were about coding and stuff but thats over my head. I understand what you are saying about getting it close to actual size. I think I need to Change my process and do the text as the final step of the process. THANKS AGAIN YOU ROCK

Was just out on vacation, but sent a bunch of emails out this morning to those looking for that. Hopefully you have yours now.

Glad to hear!

Hi! These softstarters are not actually built for single-phase motors like that. You'll need a 3-phase motor to use this. In your case, you might be better off to connect a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) and use that to convert to synthetic 3-phase if you need a ramped start.

@@joelteacheselectrical So you mean a VFD with a Single phase input and a three phase out put to ramp up the motor. One problem though, the motor itself is a single phase type with capacitors, so it only takes a three phase input, how do you power a single phase motor with power from a three phase (U,V,W) output of VFD?

Also the datasheet of the ATS01N112FT and ATS01N125FT does say it can be used to power a single phase electric motor. I may be confused on this topic, it seems like there is a lot i am missing. Setting me straight on the topic will be very much appreciated

Glad it's helpful. Happy to share that out.

Hang in there! It's an acquired skill that takes practice, and these are the hardest calculations in transformers.

Really depends on the operation and float type. Is it for fill or for drainage, and is it dual floats with high and low level, or a single float with a differential like a Flygt bulb? A ton of variations possible.

glad you like it!

Yes, Those are all hot lines from the breaker through the contactor and softstarter. The entire power circuit is 3-phase delta at 208V (Canadian with our color code of Red/Black/Blue for hot lines, and white for neutrals.)

Party On! Good luck on a hard topic.

Sure. To abbreviate, 28-506 states that "...the control circuit shall be arranged so that an accidental ground... will not ....b) prevent the stopping of the motor..." Because the neutral is grounded, a ground fault between the coil and OL could allow that to stay energized which could cause safety issues. But moving the overloads to the opposite side of the coil or control circuit is opposite to traditional industry standard, and is a rarely enforced rule.

Good question. No, the card does not power up the sensors. The external sensors are just sending a 4-20mA polarized signal into the TM3AI8 card. But those sensors will need external power, like the card itself.

Glad it helped, and well done in transferring it across to another PLC! That's a tough thing to do. Cheers back from Canada.

Usually as an indicator of a fault. It only closes when the Overload trips, so if you connect that to a pilot light or alarm system, that will activate and let you know your OL has kicked out.

Hi, Yes, the DC source is independent of the PLC, so a battery supply can be used. Just make sure the polarity is done correctly.

It's a solid library, and years worth of work for me. Unfortunately I have no plans of distributing it though. But, with only a few hours watching and working on this series, you could have a very solid understanding of the how to draw quickly and easily with Visio and be well on your way to developing your own.

Hi. This one is really hidden where you would not expect it. Go the the "Pages" tab and click on "Page setup" A window should popup. It has a tab in there called "Layout and Routing". You can enable and modify Line Jumps there. My preferred setup is "Right Angle" routing style, with "Arc" line jumps on "Horizontal lines" only. Cheers!

Thanks for the reply! I struggled with that for a while and honestly assumed Visio couldn't do it until I saw your video!@@joelteacheselectrical

Glad it helped! I love having it.

Aye! I do. Glad to hear from you and see that you're still learning electrical!

You can input a number as "1 m" and it automatically goes to that size on whatever you are dimensioning. But that might be too big for the drawing page. If you are looking to create a scaled drawing, you can set that up under "Page Setup" in the pages tab. then you can draw in full meters if need be.

I wish I had the time for custom video requests! Unfortunately I don't as these are just done when I have time between my main job. Hopefully this helps some on that though.

It sounds like you are looking for videos on shape creation, and that is not what this one is about. A "Stencil" is a folder library in Visio that allows you to save and repeatedly use a shape. Creating that filing and recall system is all that this video shows, and shape creation is walked through in the earlier videos of the series. Cheers!

amen

That’s a tricky one. You need to use and delete a line for that. Here’s the steps. Draw a vertical line. Select the lefthand square and then the line. Align right. Then deselect everything. Now select the line first, then the other righthand square. Now align left. Finally delete the temporary line. Cheers!

thank you! @@joelteacheselectrical

Nice tip on the Symmetrical drop! I didn't know that one. Cheers!

Glad you liked it! Educational content doesn’t usually get a lot of comments!