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Left For Dead Garage
United States
Приєднався 5 лис 2012
Personal project builds, side jobs and local car show/cruise in coverage.
The list is actually getting shorter on the 1949 3100 truck PINKY
Finished up the clutch and brake pedals, transmission mount and cross member.
Full playlist here.
Full playlist here.
Переглядів: 212
Відео
Mastercool flaring tool and @SummitRacing tubing straightener on Pinky 1949 3100
Переглядів 42914 днів тому
Using some must have tools for doing tubing work. @SummitRacing @MasterCool
The 454 disaster!
Переглядів 6 тис.21 день тому
Tearing apart my 454 to see if we can find out what caused rod bearing destruction. This is part of my 1973 C10 video series, playlist found here. Abandoned C10 1973 Cheyenne Super 10 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dICQWpcHyq5R4G6YTEbbEVEI.html
Big Block 1973 C10 gets LS Swapped LQ4 6.0
Переглядів 12 тис.Місяць тому
From big block to LS swapped, it should be a crime Full playlist here Abandoned C10 1973 Cheyenne Super 10 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dICQWpcHyq5R4G6YTEbbEVEI.html
Brake lines, pedal modifications, and Scat ProCar seats.
Переглядів 461Місяць тому
Brake lines, pedal modifications, and Scat ProCar seats.
Abandoned C10 gets a Evil Energy PTFE hose kit @ievilenergy
Переглядів 520Місяць тому
Reviewing a @ievilenergy ptfe hose and fitting kit. Big thank you to Evil Energy for sending this out! Use discount code HG10 at checkout for 10% off your order here www.ievilenergy.com/ C10 playlist here. Abandoned C10 1973 Cheyenne Super 10 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dICQWpcHyq5R4G6YTEbbEVEI.html
Classic Iron Fallston Masonic Lodge #356 Classic Car Show
Переглядів 216Місяць тому
4th annual Classic Iron show Fallston NC
Abandoned Big Block EFI C10 rides again! But not for long….
Переглядів 891Місяць тому
Well this was not how I wanted things to go on this truck. From efi issues to really big issues with the motor. Full playlist here on this truck. Abandoned C10 1973 Cheyenne Super 10 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dICQWpcHyq5R4G6YTEbbEVEI.html
@AcesFuelInjection for the Big Block 73 C10
Переглядів 1,2 тис.Місяць тому
Giving @AcesFuelInjection a shot on the abandoned 1973 C10 Full playlist here.
Bending up some new brake lines for Pinky, 1949 Chevy 3100
Переглядів 2942 місяці тому
Another video n making progress on this cool old truck. Full playlist found here.
Is the 454 in my Impala tired and needing a rebuild???
Переглядів 1,4 тис.2 місяці тому
Doing some over due maintenance on my 1964 Impala and the riding to Gaston co cars & coffee Full playlist on my impala found here
Abandoned C10 gets lowered and a BIG BLOCK!!
Переглядів 4,2 тис.3 місяці тому
Trying hard to have this truck ready for C10 Revival in October. Full playlist on the truck here Abandoned C10 1973 Cheyenne Super 10 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dICQWpcHyq5R4G6YTEbbEVEI.html First start of the big block. 454 big block Chevy break in ua-cam.com/video/xp7kpm_8yXk/v-deo.html Used @SuperEasySuperFast foam degrease on the trans pan. It’s great stuff !
Pedal modification time on the 1949 Chevy 3100 known as Pinky
Переглядів 2443 місяці тому
Sorting out pinky one job at a time, this time I’ll be modifying the brak and clutch pedals for more foot room. Playlist on the entire truck is here Pinky the poor hack job 1949 Chevy 3100 ua-cam.com/play/PLJerrb3b5dIA3iI1FV026uJHA22rWHFvQ.html @BadDonkeyGarage youtube.com/@BadDonkeyGarage?si=rzrhoIP8vaKtakAU
Pinky part 8 pedal assembly with hydraulic clutch . @speedwaymotors slave cylinder
Переглядів 2594 місяці тому
Pinky part 8 pedal assembly with hydraulic clutch . @speedwaymotors slave cylinder
LS swapped El Camino, does it run and drive yet?????
Переглядів 7754 місяці тому
LS swapped El Camino, does it run and drive yet?????
Will I ever get this car sorted out??????
Переглядів 5794 місяці тому
Will I ever get this car sorted out??????
Big Block Chevy marketplace buy cleaned up with @SuperEasySuperFast
Переглядів 3024 місяці тому
Big Block Chevy marketplace buy cleaned up with @SuperEasySuperFast
Machining the hub to fit a @fssteeringwheels
Переглядів 2985 місяців тому
Machining the hub to fit a @fssteeringwheels
Installing a fresh 9” rearend under pinky but not without some struggles.
Переглядів 6255 місяців тому
Installing a fresh 9” rearend under pinky but not without some struggles.
Hot Rod Power Tour Day 5 Indianapolis
Переглядів 3645 місяців тому
Hot Rod Power Tour Day 5 Indianapolis
Hot Rod Power Tour day 4 Hebron OH
Переглядів 1,9 тис.5 місяців тому
Hot Rod Power Tour day 4 Hebron OH
Hotrod Power Tour day 3 Louisville KY
Переглядів 2185 місяців тому
Hotrod Power Tour day 3 Louisville KY
Hotrod Power Tour 2024 Day 2 Nashville Speedway
Переглядів 3645 місяців тому
Hotrod Power Tour 2024 Day 2 Nashville Speedway
Hot Rod Power Tour Beech Bend Raceway 2024
Переглядів 9366 місяців тому
Hot Rod Power Tour Beech Bend Raceway 2024
Power Tour 2024 long haul in my big block 4 speed 1964 Impala
Переглядів 3,2 тис.6 місяців тому
Power Tour 2024 long haul in my big block 4 speed 1964 Impala
The El Camino is back! Let’s finally finish this LS swap.
Переглядів 2,2 тис.6 місяців тому
The El Camino is back! Let’s finally finish this LS swap.
Holes in the block and water in the oil, this truck is full of surprises 1949 Chevy 3100
Переглядів 1,3 тис.6 місяців тому
Holes in the block and water in the oil, this truck is full of surprises 1949 Chevy 3100
1949 Chevy 3100 American Auto Wire harness installation and finding more hack work.
Переглядів 1 тис.7 місяців тому
1949 Chevy 3100 American Auto Wire harness installation and finding more hack work.
1949 Chevy 3100, the owner has been scammed and lied to.
Переглядів 1,3 тис.7 місяців тому
1949 Chevy 3100, the owner has been scammed and lied to.
1949 Chevrolet 3100 update and transmission cross member installation
Переглядів 1,9 тис.7 місяців тому
1949 Chevrolet 3100 update and transmission cross member installation
Some great progress. Things are coming together. It's still amazing how much has had to be redone or replaced. Some really nice work. Be safe and stay well
Hi Im doing a1952 Chevy I don’t know for sure. What kind of rear end should I use? do you have any recommendations?I’m using a 1970 nova sub frame
Disk brake s10 rear is typically what most use, some use the 8.8 from an explorer. Neither is a perfect width though and the ford is 5x4.5 BP.
Sweet!!
Sounds pretty gnarly!!
Is this with a tune on the trans? Mine won't let me hit limiter even if I manually put it into first
It had a full PCM of NC tune. That shifting out of 1st mess while holding it in 1st on the shifter sucks. I used HP tuners and changed that on my 2500 suburban, not that need it to stay in low often but there’s been times where i needed it to.
Would you like to sell your 53 pickup?
Both this truck and the one I had in the field are gone now.
The bearing lose in the rod end means it lost its crush and was fixen to spin.
Was so close to being a bigger disaster
If it sounds like the intro to Hot for teacher it’s the right camshaft.
That’s right!!
hell yeah!
On mine the oil pump failed
That straightener seems to do a great job. Good investment. The fuel line looks great. Still amazed every time you go thru what's left, and remember this was supposed 'practically done' when you first got it. OMG. Be safe and stay well.
Yep, her lawyer was told she received a running driving truck. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️.
I have the vevor version of that flair tool. Its nice to have.
I was actually looking at some vevor tools yesterday. I wondered how they were, don’t know anyone who’s actually bought anything yet.
@LeftForDeadGarage i think the flare tool is the exact same thing just different badge. I have some stability jacks they are good and a i bought a stud welder but not used yet. Oh I have a sonic cleaner from them too it works well.
@jeffreyrigged iam going to have to really check them out then. Thanks for the info
That tube straightener did way better than I was expecting
Iam pretty impressed with that thing.
What went wrong???? YOU USED A SHITTY CHEVEY. MOPAR AND BIG BLOCK FORD RULE.
😂😂😂. It’s spelled Chevy.
And their not radiused!
I like prolong oil additive super lube that works realy well on friction and wear try it your motor will run smooth and quiet.
I run Lucas race oil in mine. Never heard of prolong
Where's the oil pump?
In the scrap bin, it looked fine on the inside. This motor held 70+psi the entire time
Ive ran crowler cams and lifters vig and small blocks alike for the better part of 40 years never had a problem yet
The last 15 years has been a real gamble on flat tappet cams, especially with imported parts.
Plasticguage that motor and place correct bearings
, I’ll bring my mics and bore gauge home from work when it goes back together and measure everything.
Seeing the damage near cap parting line, I bet the rod was 'pinched' to grab bearing tighter. That procedure totally makes rod out of round. The cam alone didn't do that damage to bearings. That cam is the Extreme 286. The extreme line makes great power. They require good valvetrain because cam lobe ramp speed is very aggressive (some people complain of related valvetrain noise). Great torque and horsepower. I have used them a lot since 1999. But they gotta live to enjoy it. And because they are aggressive, we won't see 50k miles out of them. Simply the lobe is too aggressive and required springs are tough with needed pressures. However, comp cams magnum and hi-energy line I've seen 200k personally. If you brought your rods to my shop asking to be reconned, I'd probably rec a new set of scat. Why? Well, if you wanted recon and ARP bolts, I'd rec we wet mag rods. Then, shotpeen, install bolts, resize, and side clearence. Added up, buy new rods. And most likely the new rods will need some love. But they are new, no cycle life, better then O.E rods, etc etc I would make more $$$ prepping your stock rods- but having your best interest in mind, I would rec new.
I oval track race. Some divisions require flat tappet of hyd or solid. I nitride all my flat tappet cams. Race or street. Stock or performance. If its flat tappet it gets nitrided (solid cams get lifters with oil hole on face, while hyd tappets are Rhoads brand. Also lifter bores get modified for extra oiling(you can do this yourself)
Fyi for viewers. BBChevy had very heavy reciprocating weight(hard on rod bearings) combined with structurally under-bearinged (again- bad for bearings). Its very common to see big end of rod egg shaped. (I owned an engine machine shop- but dont trust me. Do your research).
That motor was together WAY too long to be a "fitment" issue. I am thinking an oiling issue. Slow/inadequate oil to the rods. Need to pull the oil pump apart and check all the oil passages for trash.
It was supposed to have been put together and just say around. I only put maybe 15 miles on it and it kept 70+ oil psi
@LeftForDeadGarage I am having trouble wrapping my brain around wearing all the way down in the copper in about 2 hours run time and it didn't seize up or spin bearings??? Especially at 70psi oil pressure?Something fishy here!
The only reason I really caught the death rattle is when I swapped from 40 series flowmasters to the flow FX mufflers. It’s a few videos back in this 73 C10 playlist. There is also a single “first start” video on this motor from a little while back. I fired it on the engine stand with radiator and all hooked up.
People pay attention on old cast iron blocks they core shift what does that mean. Exactly that so if you have a lifter journal that's tight are several of them that block has core shifted it's no good
I actually looked at that, it’s not a problem with this block.
Usually, when your rod bearings go bad from the front of the motor back, starvation of oil. Pull your oil pump apart. Where is the sump located in the pan?
#3 and 4 were the worst, it’s rear sump. Held 70psi or better the entire time
If it is a 5th gen with open chamber heads with peanut ports,it doesnt have a chance to make any power.
For the little I did get to drive it it ran way better than I figured it would. Rotate the earth ? Nope, but it was healthy. It’s a real shame it went the way it did, but I was taking a gamble on an unknown motor and here we are. 🤷🏻♂️
It's easy to make 500+ lbs of torque with peanut port heads. They are cheap if not free. Good burnout heads.(lots of low rpm torque)
I have a suggestion, build the engine with no intake, build oil pressure, mark the lifters, turn the engine, if the lifters dont turn they are not going to when the engine starts and will go flat.
It won’t go back together with a flat tappet cam, it’s roller or nothing anymore.
Miss matched bearings to crank I'm guessing
Crank and bearings were a both .020/.020
Great video. Love these 'detective' videos. Hope you can make the parts work, get the old 454 rebuilt and move forward with the C10 shop truck. Be safe and stay well.
U are correct about the big end of the rods needing to be truly round. It is very important for that bore to be true & round & to the proper size. And it is somtimes overlooked in home builds. The tolerances for the size & roundness for the big end of the rods are very tight! Not somthing anybody can ever see witb the naked eye. On my fords the tolerances on the rod bores are .0008. Less than .001 of tolerance. Alot of bore guages measure down to half a thou. That is not precise enuf to measure that. You need a guage that measures down to .0001! Becose half a thou is .005. If it is accurate to that + or - that is a total of .001, they only have a tolerance of .0008 to be in or out. U need a guage that measures to .0001 accuracy. This needs to be checked with the rod caps torqued to spec. Now if you are in tolerance now lets talk about the bearing shells. With bearings installed & cap torqued to spec now you measure the bore for size but not roundness. The bearing shells are nade to not be round. They should be about .005 bigger going across were they meet. This is so the rod can distort under loads & still have clearance when its running. So when measuring bearings, only measure top to bottom. Not across. Now whatever your journals measure compared to your bearings measured you want your oil clearance to be around .002 of clearance. If you look up this clearance in a book it muggt tell you it supposed to be .0008 to .0015, this is wrong.. That clearance is to tught! U might think u want it tight? U do not!! Good rule of thumb is .001 per one inch of journal size. So if your journals measuere 2 inches then u want .002 of oil clearance. You want this larger clearance to compensate for any out of roundness or imperfections your journal might have & the larger clearance also provides more room for more oil flow wich helps lubricate the bearing & also helps cool the bearing. More oil flow= cooler bearing! If u need proof look up oil clearance for a everyday normal 454 & then look up oil clearance for a 1970 high performance 450 hp 454. It will be different! If your oil clearances are to loose, u will know becouse u might have lower oil pressure. If they are to tight evefybody will know becouse your engine will blow up in front of everybody!! Keep em loose!
I don’t have a tenths bore gauge but there may be one in the cabinet at work, not that I really need it for the crude way I was checking them. Going to make myself a rod vise next week, I’ve got all my materials rounded up. I’ve always went by the .001 per inch on clearances,it’s worked fine for me so far. I’ve still not nailed down on what happened to cause it to wreck the bearings. I pulled the crank, should have done it on the video. Bearings were beat up but not like the rods. Now Iam concerned since I don’t know for sure what caused it to do this. I also don’t know the full history of this motor either so maybe it was hurt before I got it. Thanks for watching and sharing all that info.
When looking at your rod bearings the rod half of the bearing will always be worse than the cap half of the bearing. & when looking at main bearings the cap half of the bearing will always be worse than the block half of the bearing. Thats were all the pressure is when the engine runs.
I have reused used flat tappet cams successfully before. Sevral times actually. And i dont mean i disabled a engine & then put the same engine back together with all its original parts. I mean i have taken camshafts out of one engine & then installed it in a completely different engine. And i have boughten completly new set of lifters & used them on a used flat tappet camshaft successfully. Even though it was a used camshaft i did the break in process over again with the new lifters. But i have never had a camshaft failure even with doing things like that. The engines i did that with were not big block chevys. Idk if some engines are more prone to cam failures than others? But mine have all been successful.
I’ve never swapped them from one to another. When we did the motor in the red el camino we reused the cam and lifters in it just to avoid the flat tappet gamble. Iam not sure in this 454 had ever been ran before I got it so it could have been hurt before.
@LeftForDeadGarage after watching the full video & hearing it sounds like it had been together for awhile, my take on it is it was just wore out. From age & use, but not really any failure or improper maintenance. The specs for that cam are much bigger & much more aggressive compared to stock. Some folks might say it isn't a big cam, but compared to stock it is much bigger. And it requires much stronger valve springs. It has more aggressive ramps wich are harder for a lifter to climb & add in alot more pressure on the lifter from the much stronger springs simply makes for possibly a good running camshaft, but life expectancy is shorter when u factor in the details. Using proper oil & being broke in properly all become much more important the more aggressive the cam is. And it sounds like all that was dun correctly. But it just has run its cycle. The wear on the bearings suggest the same also to me. I noticed they became alittle better shape the closer you got to the oil pump. Normal wear & tare. I dont think it looked like any damage was from one thing to another? I'm not a professional engine builder so maybey im missing somthing but as a hobby with my own engines I love building them! And I've dun a few things that are supposed to be automatic no no's & discovered the myths are somtimes bigger than the actual problems. Good video man. I've never seen ur channel before.
@jesseduke694 this motor only had about 15 miles on it. It may have been started and broke in before I got it but that’s all if that. I have a “first start” video I’ll post the link. I got this motor from a friend and it was gone though for him.
@jesseduke694 454 big block Chevy break in ua-cam.com/video/xp7kpm_8yXk/v-deo.html
I've also had plenty of luck with flat tappet's. The proper break in is necessary. I run delo and break in zinc for the break in and delo and Lucas 10% ish. Keep it full and changed should be good
Your going the right way on diagnosing the problem good work 😅
I can’t 100% determine what caused it though.
Cam eating motors all over UA-cam and many, many discussions.
For sure, it’s the flat tappet apocalypse lol
Hydraulic roller time. You will be so much happier!
For sure, I can’t gamble anymore on today’s flat tappet cams. Thanks for watching
im thinking oil pump failure......
Had up to 70-80 psi the entire time, it only had maybe 15 miles of street driving. I had efi on it at the time so it was 15 miles of trying to let that stuff learn. I didn’t even get a chance to beat on it, I guess it’s a good thing I didn’t or I may of had a lot more junk parts.
a Comp flat tappet going bad........that never happens
The motor had been together for a good while, I was hoping for the best. However I do not know if it was ever ran before I got ahold of it. So even though I did the break in it may have already been on its way out.
Truly enjoyed this video. I'm going to watch this one to the completion.
Unfortunately I’ve not touched this project in a while. Between side work and a 1973 c10 bad idea I’ve not had time to spend on it. Iam far far overdue on working on it.
Larry suggested that I go back with Howard’s. Haven’t been disappointed yet. I feel like my comp cam is what took out my 327. It wasn’t completely gone and wasn’t knocking. But the bearing and crank were trash.
Idk if I can risk another flat tappet gamble I’ve personally never lost one that i installed and broke in but my luck is probably at the end of the road. Lol.
@@LeftForDeadGarage flat tappet is such a sh-t show now. I did the math on my 460 ford and its an extra $500 to go retrofit roller on it. I guess thats the price to only do it once.
@yurimodin7333 I agree, that’s a lot to risk to save some money in the beginning. Then to fix the wiped out cam would cost more money and time than it would have taken to just go roller. It’s a sad time for us hotrod guys
I’d stay away from Comp these days, but that’s me.
@alanmeyers3957 I’ve went to only using Howard’s cams, and nothing but roller now too.
Nice work on the LS install in Dirty Bob. Agree with your reasoning for this particular LS. Always good to have a reliable shop truck/daily in the driveway. Be safe and stay well.
Iam pretty excited to put some miles on this things. Thanks for watching
I like those rims on it, you know what they are?? They’d look good on my c10
Pretty sure they are us mag ramblers
@ sweet! Thank you sir!
@ no problem, thanks for watching
Is that truck Omaha Orange. What the paint code. If you know. Ive got a 5.3 swapped 82 Gmc shortbed.
Pretty sure it’s burnt orange metallic.
Wow another ls swap👎
Iam sure you watched to find out why right? 🤦♂️
Yes it’s cheap, i get it. Just boring content.
No more boring than anything else that’s been SBC swapped into everything for nearly 70 years. There’s not much that’s new anymore.
You can’t even be upset about the ls swap this guy has a 64 impala big block 4 speed that has 2 power tours on it with 6-7000 miles! That’s more than most ls swapped hotrods get these days
@joegladden9042 three power tours lol
The S 10 chassis will fit on a 53 suburban
It will if it’s 117” wheel base.
Take a junkyard 454 bigblock with over 100,000 miles on it put a healthy camshaft and matching valve springs and do a valve job with new valves do the same with a LS 5.3,6.0,6.2 see which one runs better and lasts longer
Well first off I’d like to find a junkyard 454 with 100k miles on it, specifically a Vortec 7400 to even do an apples to oranges comparison. The last longer part isn’t comparable at all, especially with unknown history of either “junkyard” motor. I’ve got a 85 454 in my 64 impala with what you mentioned above, I should compare these two at the drag strip. Probably weigh the same but the impala does have an advantage with the 4 speed.
@LeftForDeadGarage it's common sense a 454 bigblock will make more torque way sooner then a LS 5.3,6.0,6.2 can so gearing stall converter would be extremely different for both l have a 2011 Camaro SS with a GM Performance LS3 495 horsepower crate engine on E85 with a 4200rpm Circle D lockup stall converter in a built 6L80e transmission with mild stock 3.27 gearing even a stock LS3 will benefit from a 3500rpm stall converter most LS engines with a camshaft make peak torque between 4800rpm - 5400rpm unlike your 454 that probably makes peak torque 3000-3800rpm I've seen a few LS setups with 4600-5000rpm stall converters that rock and pull hard to 7200rpm with a good hydraulic roller camshaft with matching valve springs using a completely stock shortblock
@LeftForDeadGarage either way your either trading higher rpm for more low end torque or looking at the 6 bolt stock splayed mains and the bottom end build stock of a LS is going to last longer the crankshaft is rock solid bolted to the block way better than the 4 bolt mains in the bigblock
That’s great but “who’s better” isn’t why the truck went 6.0.
@LeftForDeadGarage surely your not going to compare a ZZ454 crate with 440 horsepower at 5300rpm and 520 foot pounds of torque at 3700rpm vs a L8P 6.6 LT crate that is making 523 horsepower at 5800rpm with 543 foot pounds of torque at 4600rpm price for either are comparable because 100 feet out the LT 6.6 will pull away
Take a stock bigblock 454 and push it really hard repeatedly take a stock LS 5.3,6.0 ,6.2 push it hard repeatedly see which one lasts longer and still runs well over time
Well pushing a stock 454 really hard is only 5000 rpm after that it’s a dead player lol. Any of the LS\Vortec family will live life way above that. That’s not the point of this video, have you watched the entire playlist? Going to the 6.0 wasn’t the direction I wanted for this truck, still not thrilled the big block came out.
@LeftForDeadGarage moving heavy weight without spinning rpm is what a bigblock does extremely well
The 6.0 in terms of modern technology (efi, coil on plugs, electronic timing, ect) and power is undefeated. GM hit the head of the nail perfectly whenever they released the Vortec truck variant of the LS in 1999. However no LS beats the sound and power of a Big Block Chevy that’s N/A built.
I 110% agree with all of that. I’ll honestly probably enjoy the truck more with the 6.0 as far as just jump in and drive with creature comforts. I plan to put some miles on this thing next year. Thanks for watching
Well I kinda like it. It should drive smooth, crank easy and be dependable. Maybe not the burn out king you wee planning but it should still do nice burn outs
I fully agree, I’ll probably enjoy it more with the 6.0. Maybe eventually have the 80E rebuilt and add to the easy driveability
Thanks for sharing. Great video and a really nice product. Be safe and stay well.
Well that's a mess.