Відео

No plasticizers in SLA resins in most cases. He’s a smart guy, but out of his depth in this discussion.

my friend teases me saying that waste management is my passion, not 3D modeling or printing

This is quality info that should be a requirement for anyone wanting to dive into resin printing. Thank you both so much for taking the time to put this together.

Also, "solvents" were cited several times, but never the word "detergent". Yet, it would also have been particularly interesting to know how recent resin detergents (which are part detergent with a "hydrophobic tail" but also solvents) work as an alternative to IPA (which is pure solvent) on the microphysics level, and whether they are indeed more effective at removing resin as claimed by the manufacturers. I'm not speaking of general kitchen detergents from the grocery store like Simple Green, but dedicated resin detergents. These detergents have the other advantage of being suitable for use in ultrasonic cleaners, which is not recommended at all with IPA due to its flammability. Ultrasonic cleaners are much more effective than vortex-based wash stations at removing sticky uncured resin from 3D printed parts, especially when they are hollowed. Incidentally, this would have introduced a subsidiary interesting question regarding Wilson's machine: Why is resin diluted in some of these resin detergents unable to cure when exposed to UV light, contrary to when it is diluted in IPA (according to some testers that would be the case for Sunlu Detergent or ResinAway) while others dedicated detergents would allow diluted resin to cure in the same situation (Elegoo Photopolymer Resin Detergent, Sailsea 3D Resin Cleaner, FormFutura EasyClean, apparently)? That's a particularly useful property when you're trying to slightly precipitate the resin by partially curing it so it can better get caught in the micrometer filters, and the discrepancy over the various cleaner alternative to IPA raises questions. Not only the Wilson machine eliminates the need to dispose IPA and buying it over and over again, since your keep the same in the circuit (just topping it from time to time to compensate for its evaporation) but when one switches from IPA to detergent, this recycling process also negates the higher price point of the latter with respect to the former! An even if in the end, after one year or more probably several years, you have to eventually dispose the recycled liquid (if it's indeed not 100% recycled in the process) and finally replace it entirely, the convenience and economy of scale achieved in the meantime have been unbeatable. At least, that's what is seems to me.

Nick Wilson's IPA filtration machine is not "crazy", it's pretty simple actually, and very clever. I don't get why you are laughing each time you're referring to the setup, calling it the "arc reactor" like if it was some insane sci-fi thing from a movie, what's more without even crediting the author, ever. Wow. Even Wilson never called it like that. The fact that the machine recycles soiled IPA (by precipitating liquid resin diluted in it into larger partially cured chunks, and passing it several times in a loop for about 20 minutes through micrometer filters that capture it) and that not only it works, but it continues to work perfectly after passing over 20 kg of resin over a year without the need to even change the filters yet, is all there is to know. The fact that in the end you only have to dispose two small solid-state filters after 12 or 18 months to the chemicals section of you local waste disposal center, instead of hundreds of liters of contaminated IPA (!) is the smoking gun of this device. For those who don't know, the cost of these filters is ridiculous. This should have been the starting point, which should then have been developed to explain what technically happens in the machine.

Explaining @21mins why you don't leave prints in IPA was a big ahhhhhh moment for me

I still find it horrifying that some people actually think it's okay to use cheap, countertop water distillers for IPA.

This was very interesting and informative. Thank you Phil and Andrew for breaking this down so well. Now, all we need is for someone to make a vacuum distiller in a hobbyist price-range. Whoever does that, will make a ton of money!

I came across this video because my K1 Max was having the same issue. I clean my rods regularly. After 4 kilos I started having the issue. I went as far as taking my gantry apart and cleaning the graphite tool carriage bearings. They are supposed to be dry run (no lube) and they were very gummy on the inside of the bearing. It would take an endless amount of juicing and running the carriage back and forth to get any discernable amount of clean to them. Thank you very much. It's not driving me nuts anymore and I can reset all the slicer offsets I changed to try to resolve the issue. I'm thankful I didn't change the printer rotational distances in the config file but I wasted almost a kilo trying to resolve the issue.

I was thinking about putting one of my old heat beds in the bottom, placing a aqara temp/humidity sensor on the inside was of the unit and turning the bed on and off with automation like most things in my house and using a smart outlet. According to the display mine holds about 46, but then again I will have to check that. FYI the temp sensor for the charmer is the same board as the standby button and emergency shut down button on top.

Did you assemble your machine or did you have the company assemble?

Fighting a warping issue while trying to finish an enclosure, found the warping occurs to the parts closest to the door.. I ordered two of those heaters, along with my RP2040-Tiny that controls a SSR while talking to the printers controller, Klippers Chamber Temperature becomes a controllable reality.

Are you guys working on the actual holographics to be able to put onto plates and also do you do these onto p1p pei plates the plate size is 10 inch by 10 inch I believe

I use the same PTC fan in my Resin printer - the fan craps out, elcheapo pancake motor - I'm on #3 in 6 months. Amazon supplier did warrant first one.

Hello it keeps turning off for me and can't keep the set temperature of 60 degrees, what could be the reason?

I didnt even think you could disassemble the hot end only, i've always just done what you just did.

Can’t wait for mine! The plates are awesome

I've seen someone use a water distiller. They're not cheap though. The cheapest temperature controlled ones I see on Amazon is about $80.

I did the same thing.

that's neat, but honestly I'm too scared of fire hazard to try to distil ethanol at home I know it's not making it brand new, but I do hope that my 3 wash system and sunlight baths/settling cycles are extending my solvents' lifespan, let me cope

I like the cleaning pads I'm going to buy some. Thanks

aluminum sulfate and decanting

What about using molecular sieves to filter the isopropanol or the monimers out of solution?

So distilling IPA has a place. And yes that is the best way to get your IPA pure. Most people don't need their IPA to be pure because most of the time the the IPA is still concentrated enough to do its job. if your wash bath is 3 liters and its 99% by volume. You can add almost 500ml before the concentration is below what would be recommended for cleaning Resin prints. Not taking into account you need to top off the IPA since some of it will stick to the print etc so you will top it off over time. If you wait for the excess resin to drip off and have 2 ml of resin sticking to the print. That means you can do 250 washes before that alcohol is no longer viable. if you do a clean dirty wash you can get even more washes. The IPA will become cloudy long before that because of pigments. So removing that pigment means you can do more washes without replacing the still viable alcohol. For most hobbyists, the alcohol is still over 90% IPA which is why this settling and sun stuff works. The needs of hobbyists vs business are different.

A lot of hazardous wastes are simply incinerated. IPA in particular breaks down to CO2 and water. The real hazard would be the resin itself, so you should probably let them know that it's contaminated with liquid UV resin in particular, although they might not know enough about it to have a specific procedure for it.

What is the cost break down between buying fresh/disposal price vs how many cycles to break even? Any service or expected hours of life on the distiller? Looks like a nice option.

I have tried the Sun curing method twice - both times when I have washed parts later they get covered in Gum. Does not work

Unless im missing something, this is just a distillation process? Just heat up the ip and it will evaporate , cool it down and you have your ipa again.

Very informative and enlightening video and just as it has been mentioned prior it would be interesting to see something like this for those that are just hobbyist. Thanks for sharing.

whats the recovery %? 90%+?

Thanks for this! It was very interesting to see the process that you use. I'm only just spinning up the printers again after a break of two years, but I have been very keen on this particular bit of kit. I think it's definitely going to be a worthwhile investment, once I get to the point where I can move to a larger premises!

As you said so many benefits to bringing this process in house, namely they way the third party you were using before was far more wasteful. As a workflow I am curious if it still wouldn't be better to have 50% or more of the IPA over your need so the machine is not down for all two cycles of the machine. I suppose that depends how heavy your print volume is and if it being down for that time impacts your ability to deliver on time. Either way thanks for showing this process and that it can be done, if not yet at the small at home scale, at least at the small to medium business scale.

Nice setup! As stated in your video about handling resin, there opt to be a cheaper route to clean the prints in 2-3 stages where IPA99% is the last stage. I'm using rubbing alchohol 75% on prewash and secondary washing stage before the ipa, and the resin sink to the bottom due to sedimantation. This way the cost is greatly reduced.

*looks at how my IPA is dirty* Yeah its still good

Good to know - Thanks!

think i saw your reddit post earlier

Great video, 2 questions: 1. What percent IPA are you all using? 2. How many was cycles can you get out of a single IPA bath before cleaning?

So - how does it work, and can someone DIy it on a smaller scale?

Someone needs to make one of these solvent recyclers for home/hobbyist use! I'd love to have one, but at $6000,it's too expensive for me.

Have you used it for any solvents other than IPA?

Next video: "Using URS500 Solvent Recycler to make a moonshine"

Nice! Wish there was a smaller version, can’t justify $5k+ for my low volume. Very cool that you can recycle in a responsible manner

I appreciate how thoroughly you describe your processes. I'm very interested in hearing about an in depth look into UV curing your resin contaminated solvent to remove the resin. There are a few videos on UA-cam where people have built a system that pumps the dirty solvent through clear tubing that's got UV lights surrounding it followed by a set of filters to remove the cured resin from the solvent. The solvent does come out clear, but your statement that it may not be actually pure solvent (IPA) could be true. The recycler is spendy, but looks like it works great. Definitely worth it for a business with a lot of output. Thanks for creating and sharing your videos. They're great.

I bet your insurance company loves that.

Hello. Nice video. Thanks. Can you tell me what the devive in the back right of your Bambu please?

We had gotten a formlabs 3 printer from another company who knew a employee here. They did not want the printer anymore. When we opened it op there was lot of resin in the base. Somebody has forgotten to empty the vat for shipping. Printer still worked fine. . Then one day I decided to clean the resin. Using your video, I had to put the printer on its side to remove the different pieces. Bad idea, the resin went everywhere. The pcbs were covered with resin completely as was was everything else. I tried using a squirt bottle to spray the resin away, worked a little. Still a lot of resin. Emptied what I could from the bottom and then put the bottom into the sunlight. Wiped where I could using a alcohol soaked towel. Probably got 80% of resin out in 6 hours or more. Put it back together and no display. One of the 26 pin connectors has broken a hinge. I got it to wok at some point. Eventually will have to change out the connector. But display works and it looks like it is going to work (I hope). My biggest mistake was tilting the printer for disassembly and the resin went everywhere. Wish there was a way to remove the bottom separately. Maybe make another bottom and cut out the old one. Thanks for your video anyway. Helped a lot.

I do the bootleg version of this. My dirty ipa sits in the window and the suspended resin cures out, i just decant it every now and then. (Garage setup with no wash-cure station)

THANK YOU FOR THIS

After geometry changes? What geometry changes did you make that helped it print so nicely? Gotta be detailed! lol

Silkscreened?