Відео

Maybe you should show tester settings so so we could understand better

Linian for me. No plugs or screws needed. Mind you, its Single use. £16 for 25 clips

Didn't see anything about installing the induction hob.......... I presently have a 4.1kw double oven and a basic ceramic hob connected by one 6mm cable to isolator switch, CCU and the fusebox. Works fine and recently had electrics checked and a new fusebox fitted. Looking to install a 7kw induction hob so will that run off the present set up or will it need a separate 6mm supply. Since having central heating installed, here's a now an unused 8kw shower connection etc at the board.

That trench doesn’t look deep enough. And what about the warning marker tape that should be 6 inch above the cable

What a mess

Man said "California is flat," then proceeded to describe that he measured the flatness using a piece of yarn! 🤣🤣🤣

If I remember correctly mix match mcbs or other devices are a c3. However if the bus bar has been tampered in any way to make fit then c2

Pulling the fuse might be dangerous but some of the underground cabling is already 60 years old and the armour is rusted away. The armour is also the earth ? I know someone who knocked a house down, rolled up the powerhead and builtva new house, rolled the old powerhead back into possition ? How about that ? The stuff builders do for money and 3 wives on the go.

One thing is important to know is that safe isolation? Does not give you the right to Tampa equipment that isn’t yours. It’s simply means if you can’t safely isolate you can’t work as I see some people believing it means they can take any measure necessary to isolate which you cannot.

Could just use trunking

Thanks for your video.....could you share where did you get that main cable with all 5 wires inside? (L/N/PE/CTx2) Thank you!

Could you straighten that wire behind you?

Hi, the EV circuit requires a dedicated RCD, the EV itself can potentially leak upto the 6mA DC limit of a type A RCD, when the RCD is shared as in the split load board , any equipment on the other RCD protected circuits could also leak DC, causing a higher accumulated value than the tolerated 6mA. Which in turn could prevent the RCD from functioning as designed. The best option when a switched neutral RCBO cant be used in an existing system, is to split the tails and use a dedicated "EV' Board.

Where do you get the form from to notify DNO?

If its a looped supply is it wired in a ring or radial?

There isnt any odeo

Im in the usa and ive never heard of a looped supply. Everything is so different there. We just have two hots coming in at 120 each, a neutral and ground. So is it basically a parallel 240v line? Each house is a node in one line. As far as i on w we dont do that in the usa.

Nice may I ask, did you use an mcb? Or rcbo

Thanks for the video but just to confirm for your diversity calc you basically applied the percentages from table A2 and then another 40% on top apart from the highest current using item of course? I thought this was two different methods but it would suit me fine if it is possible 🤷🏼‍♂️👍🏼

Good effort on information 👍

As someone from the US, what makes an EVSE/EV Charger different than other loads on the electrical system? We don't typically have central RCD (or GFCI) protection here, but EVSE devices will have GFCI built-in. Many loads don't have any sort of ground fault protection to begin with.

Good value point for all electric vehicles needs to be safe installation 👍

No long a go you done an inspection and didn't pick up open circuit or corrosion on back boxes.

Pull that fuse on a smart meter and you getting a call out from the supplier 😅 impossible too bypass

If the ring comes off, just try it over the cone if it goes fully on it is the correct way if not turn it around.

Couple of things that might help, take your time and be confident, go back to basics and use a junior hacksaw to build experience of how deep the cut enabling the armouring to break away with little effort, also use the knife across the cable and push it away from you using the armouring as your guide when stripping the sheath.

Is this an old video of yours? What did you do with the CPCs at the other end?

Well-done great job

Why do you find it hard to believe because you can't do it you think others are like you?

If you want to see when terminating armoured cable goes right fast forward to 12:10

Why the wiska box?

SWA straight into the double socket would had made for a neater and cheaper job, also why 2.5mm and not 1.5mm if it’s fed from a SFCU and only 8m.

why didn't you make the armoured straight into the outdoor socket

Nice. Every day is a school day when product designers haven’t been on the tools. I love solving these kind of challenges.

I R test first thing to do

What size of rcbo did you use for that induction hob and what size of flex was that to the hob cheers

how to get rid of "draft"?

how to get rid of "draft?"

Are those receivers going to be accessable when the ceilings boarded?

Good video and quick wire join box I never install them before and there are expensive 👍

Use a fitting with a microwave sensor as your coming in

Is the earth from the T&E supply connected to the back box as the switches do not have earth? Then I guess the earth from the downstream socket spurs the earth on the back box too?

Hi. Great vids. When testing IR when RCBOs fitted, do you disconnect the flying neutrals before doing the tests?

Thanks for showing the video using the Kewtech, I have the same machine great to see it in use for the EICR.

it is a good show in need, how do one get the software you are using (NAPIT), I am trying to access it but the URL is not going through

Fit 2 new Ied 30 watt outside pirs and a new outside socket when you do new garage consumer unit an easy job

Naw pal better to do dead tests first cont of cpcs including main protective conductors and supplementary then cont of ring final circuits then IR test you cant go ahead until they are all okay

Dont pay any attention to all these negative remarks your doing well and your doing a great job reffering to these books as well your competant and you have your certificate they think they are know alls they are just idiots I am an approved electrician and I would work with you any time keep up the good work

Bring a 6mm through to the garage then straight up plastic conduit to high up 4 way consumer unit then right round the top of the garage with a 2x2 plastic trunking then along the top of the consumer unit then drop 20mm plastic conduit down to sockets and light switches then along trunking to your outside pir light and outside socket job done great job