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Historical Tailoring Masterclasses
United States
Приєднався 22 чер 2018
Handmade Bespoke Selvedge Denim Jeans
A bespoke pair of jeans made from a 12.5oz selvedge denim from Japan. These were drafted and tailored entirely by myself on a vintage Singer 201 sewing machine. Features handsewn buttonholes, copper rivets and buttons, a one piece button fly, and a perfect fit.
Переглядів: 195
Відео
Attaching a Coat Collar by Hand
Переглядів 117Рік тому
A short video showing how I attach the collar to the body of an enlisted frock coat. It's a very small half back stitch - the idea is that the stitches should be almost invisible after sewing. It's also quite strong, even more so than had I used the machine. Just a little tedious, it took me about six hours to finish the collar!
Tailoring an Open Top Trouser Pocket - Part I
Переглядів 1412 роки тому
Learn how to sew an open top style of trouser pocket from the mid-19th century. In this video we'll cover the constuction of the pocket bag and facings. For more information and patterns, please see my article at www.historical-tailoring.com/2021/09/drafting-open-top-trouser-pockets/
Sewing a Rolled Hem by Hand
Переглядів 2,8 тис.3 роки тому
Learn how to finish the edges of your projects with a narrow rolled hem.
The Buttonhole Stitch
Переглядів 6853 роки тому
In this fourth and final video, learn how to work the buttonhole stitch by hand. It may take some practice, but with time you'll be able to make beautiful buttonholes for yourself. If you enjoy this video and would like to learn the process in more detail, I have an extensive free tutorial up on my website at www.historical-tailoring.com/the-art-of-the-buttonhole/
How to Sew a Buttonhole by Hand Part III - Four Cord
Переглядів 3043 роки тому
After the buttonholes are cut out and overcast, they must be further stabilized with buttonhole gimp or four-cord, which we'll learn to make and apply in this video. The four-cord also aids in giving a buttonhole that unique classic shape, raising the buttonhole threads above the surface of the garment. If you enjoy this video and would like to learn the process in more detail, I have an extens...
How to Sew a Buttonhole by Hand Part II - Cutting and Overcasting
Переглядів 2703 роки тому
After the buttonhole has been laid out, it can then be cut open with a chisel or buttonhole cutter, and the raw edges overcast to prevent fraying now and in the future. If you enjoy this video and would like to learn the process in more detail, I have an extensive free tutorial up on my website at www.historical-tailoring.com/the-art-of-the-buttonhole/
How to Sew a Buttonhole by Hand Part I - Layout
Переглядів 3393 роки тому
Sewing a buttonhole by hand can seem complicated and intimidating, but by breaking the process down into smaller steps, that can be overcome, and just about anyone can learn to create at least a decent buttonhole. The first and one of the most important steps is carefully laying out your buttonholes. In this video we'll be working with a cloth sample meant to mimic a coat front on which to prac...
How to hand sew a felling stitch
Переглядів 8413 роки тому
The felling stitch is one of the most important stitches used by tailors. There are actually three different ways to work the felling stitch, and it's important to learn all three so you can use them when necessary. This is an excerpt from my Tailoring Basics course on Historical Tailoring Masterclasses. To learn more or sign up, please visit: masterclasses.historical-tailoring.com/join-histori...
Tailor Tacks II
Переглядів 2 тис.3 роки тому
This version of the tailor's tack is a stitch used to more permanently mark pattern points on the fabric, such as balance points, pocket positions, and so on. This is an excerpt from my Historical Tailoring Masterclasses, where you can learn all manner of historical tailoring techniques from drafting, fitting, to construction. Learn more at masterclasses.historical-tailoring.com/join-historical...
Learn to sew a running stitch by hand
Переглядів 1664 роки тому
The running stitch is the most basic hand-sewing stitch and forms the basis for many other types of stitches.
How to Sew on a Button
Переглядів 1524 роки тому
We've all experienced that loose button that's just about ready to fall off, or worse, lost one entirely. In this video, learn how to sew on a button on using traditional tailoring techniques using a method that should keep your buttons in place for years to come. For a full tutorial, please check out my post at www.historical-tailoring.com/2020/06/how-to-sew-on-a-button/
Making an 1860s Linen Paletot
Переглядів 9195 років тому
Here is some footage from the construction of an 1860s unlined linen paletot I recently put together.
Drafting Plait Pockets on a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat
Переглядів 2005 років тому
Drafting Plait Pockets on a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat
That's very interesting, I thought that I was the only one to make the fly that way. Except I put the selvedge on the second time.
I think it's becoming more common. I learned it from Paul Kruize who's got a couple million views on his video. Not a fan of the selvedge in this position - I usually put in on the inside edge now.
@@historicaltailoringmasterc1246 interesting, if that is Paul kruizes method, then I may be the only one who does it my way. 👍
Can you try wear it so I can see how it looks like in person?
this music is perfection!
The material looks SO SOFT!!!!
It's actually quite firm and stiff right now, but it will break in and soften nicely over time!
Thank you SO much - making a chiffon robe and desperately needed this video! 🥰 Much appreciated!
Thanks. This and the web page make things clear. My local shop has brass thimbles as well, any experience with them?
Glad to help! I've not used a brass thimble but it should work about the same.
@@historicaltailoringmasterc1246 I bought a few for size and material, so I have a brass one to try out.
Amazing video 😄 thanks
I always had trouble doing this! Thank you for the help. Finger-pressing, I understood, but I was impatient with the rolling.
Glad to help! I initially thought hemming the entire shirt would be tedious, but it gets relaxing after a while.
Great tuition! I had no idea how to use a thimble!
I feel like I just learned something quite magical! Thank you :-)
Thank you ! 👏🏻😘
good stuff thanks for sharing :D
As ever, your online videos are wonderful!
Thank you!
My mum was dress maker. She thought me how to hem by hand but not this method. This is so cool. Well done :)
Very cool! Maybe you can give it a try sometime. :)
Oh wow. Never knew how they did that!
So talented! I’m not very good at sewing. I always screw up the machine somehow lol. Good for you!
I've had those moments with my sewing machine!
Love your videos. Thank you.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying them! -James
My great aunt tried to teach me that, but I wasn't getting it. Too young at the time I guess. Thanks!!
Very cool! Maybe you can get it this time. :)
I am new to hand sewing and I'm learning how to repair my clothes. This has been the most helpful video I've seen on how to use a thimble. Thank you!
Thank you, I'm glad you found it so helpful! I've got an article on my website that goes into more depth if you'd like: www.historical-tailoring.com/2018/10/sewing-with-a-tailors-thimble/
I always enjoyed the look of a good hand sewn buttonhole on my reproduction clothing...but the hours hand sewing the buttonholes not so much.
Yes, I find them tedious as well unless I'm in the right mood. Usually I do two or three and then take a break and do something else.
As a spinner of yarn, plying 2-ply yarn back on itself to make the 4-cord makes me smile. What kind of thread do you recommend? The same thread you're sewing the buttonhole with? Something else?
Thanks! Yes, I'm using the same thread as the buttonhole, Gutermann silk buttonhole twist, though there are a few other brands available that work just about as well.
Thanks! Beginning I think you meant right sides together.
Ah, you are right! Not sure how I missed that. Thanks!
This is cool my 4th great grandfather was a tailor in 1860. He was 39 years old.
Wow, amazing! Do you know much more about him?
Nice 😇😈😊
Thanks!
This was incredibly helpful. I have been sewing for decades and had no idea how to use a thimble correctly. Sharing...
Glad it was helpful!
why is it open at the top?
I like those thimbles because normal covered ones make my thumb sweat. Then the sweat makes it slippery, and easier to drop the thimble. I think the opening prevents this.
Because you don’t push the needle through the fabric with the top of your finger (as you do with regular close thimbles), but you push it with the side of your finger (the area on the top of your finger nail).
After two years of learning and thinking about this i've come to think that maybe it is to distinguish tailors from people who do home sewing? Because really the only time you would use the top of a regular thimble is in quilting.
And also the sweating thing 👍
Some people iron their thread after waxing and others don't. What the advantage of ironing your thread?
This is really interesting, thank you! I’ve only ever waxed my linen thread, and have never pressed it afterward, but I am going to try this with cotton. Also, what a bright idea to prepare multiple threads at once!
You're welcome! It really makes a huge difference, melting the wax into the thread. I prepare about 10 - 12 threads at once usually, sometimes more if I have a lot of work to do that day.
I've sewn for years, self-taught, and never could figure out how a thimble was supposed to help - thanks so much.
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
These are great little videos! Thanks!
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying them!
I never knot the end of my thread, I was taught to start with a couple of backstitiches.
I usually do the backstitches as well, just using knots for felling stitches and buttonholes.
Historical Tailoring Masterclasses thank you, I did wonder if what I’d been taught was wrong.
@@MsOgr1 You're welcome!
What kind of thread are you using? I have only ever waxed the inlay thread (don't know what the proper term is in English) and have used polyester thread for the normal seems but I imagine you'd use a natural thread in historical tailoring. What do you use/recommend?
Oops, sorry I missed your comment! I usually stick with silk or cotton thread from Gutermann for 99% of my work.
@@historicaltailoringmasterc1246 thanks!
Would you please let me know how hot your iron is? Also, I know you said beeswax, but do you know if it's 100% plain old beeswax or if there are things you have to add into it? I have a bag of beeswax pellets, so I wanted to know of i could just melt and mold a lump.
I always use my iron on the highest setting, not sure what that is temperature-wise. When I spray water on the iron it evaporates almost immediately. Yes, it's 100% beeswax, melting them down into a mold is a great idea!
Thank you!!
Beautifully made!!!
Thank you!
Magnificent button hole. 😍 my teacher always was about to cry when she saw my button holes. This is a dream. 🥰 happy new year!
Thank you! Happy New Year, God bless!