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Keep on doing what you do. I really hope that your channel becomes huge. Your delivery style and knowledge is solid.

I believe I have one I bought it new years ago I have used it mainly for moon photography as it's not a good walk around lens . I also have a T mount 500mm F8 mirror lens which is good for stationary or slow moving subjects I did use one to photograph the Columbia Space Shuttle in flight coming in for a landing at Edwards Airforce Base with a Pentax ME Super film camera

I wanted to try a non-mirror 500mm lens, and this was available. The seller accepted by offer of $25. The question is whether it was worth it. In the meantime, I also found a Nikon Nikkor 500mm lens, so it made sense to test this Vivitar Series 1 against two other lenses of this focal length. The filter size is 67mm. Here's a link to the manual for this lens: bit.ly/VivitarSeries1-500mm

I have the ME Super, with another and MX on the way. The ME Super was my first and bought it in the early 80s. I was stationed at Griffiss AFB, in upstate NY.

Have you attempted to scan any 127, I have an Epson, and without any kind of 127 mask, it's just too much of a pain to scan any 127, to justify the premium on the film...which is a shame because I really love the cameras made for 127, and think it gives just that push up from 35mm that makes a very distinct image. Had a couple month phase where i was shooting Provia and mountin into old superslide mounts and they were absolutely stunning, but sort of moved on to the next thing....but I have noticed I'm googling baby rolleiflex an aweful lot recently

The silver button on top is not a rewind button, it's for unlocking the winding knob so you can advance to the next frame. To rewind the film, you pull up on the wind knob and that releases the film take up spool so you can now rewind.

Heya! I recently got this lens for a really cheap price, somewhere around the $30 dollar mark. Got a question though. Is the focusing wheel at manual mode always kinda hard to turn? Unfortunately my copy has some rust around the lens. And I think the focusing wheel at the front is still connected with the autofocus motor even though it’s in manual mode, either that or the motor and focus wheel has some rust inside resulting a hard-to-turn focus wheel. Anyway, really neat video! Got lots of information from this small video right here. Hope you continue to make this sort of content! 👏👏

Any info on that screw? i.e. thread and pitch?

I have owned two Yashica cameras in my life. Both cameras were Yashica-Mat 124G and the leather covering never flaked or became unglued.

I've always wished there was a more convential rollei 35 with a rangefinder....alas this isn't it

This makes a lot of sense because selenium is an element. What can go wrong is the method of harnessing the power of the selenium

This camera is uncommon but here are other cameras that are very similar to shoot. In the USA there is the Kodak Duaflex range, the better models have a decent triplet lens. There is also the Argus 75, Super 75, and Argus 40. The Argus 40 has full aperture and multiple shutter speeds. There were many cheaper dual lens cameras made in Chicago, but those don’t have good lenses.

I use my Tamron SP mirror lens with 2x teleconverter great for Macro in bright light.

I'd never heard of a Tengoflex prior to watching this video. It seems like a pleasant little camera, and I agree that these lower spec simple cameras are great fun. I have a junk shop find 54/2 Box Tengor, 1934-38. It's nothing to write home about although the 6x9 negative takes up some of the slack for the simple lens. When new, most images from these box cameras would have been printed as contact prints, so it's probably slightly unfair to look at them on hi res screens. I have hundreds of old family pictures taken with this type of camera, and nearly all are contact prints.

The 'Honeywell Pentax' designation wasn't that unusual for the time. Around that era, we also had cameras labeled 'Bell & Howell/Canon,' 'Beseler Topcon,' 'Hanimex Praktica,' some 'Argus/Cosinas,' and a few other examples I'm sure I've forgotten. It was a way for importers to ID their cameras, as opposed to gray market copies brought in independently. It's also worth noting that before Honeywell, they were labeled 'Heliand Pentax.'

By its nature, it's an easy camera to shoot out on the street, because you shoot from the waist, rather than hold it up to your eye. Framing can be a bit vague, because the large magnifier doesn't provide accurate framing. It's a box camera - so you just accept it.

Please drink something

No No No, East German Zeiss was awarded the name Carl Zeiss Jena, this was a typical west influenced international court decision because Jena was the original home of Carl Zeiss. Carl Zeiss Oberkochen was created by Zeiss personal who had fled Jena before the Russians arrived and was the upstart. Pentacon was a separate business although they did buy some lenses from Carl Zeiss Jena. Praktica sold millions of cameras around the world including the west. They may have not been big sellers in the USA but they certainly sold well in Europe and in the UK in particular. Up until the significant increases in the standards of living that occurred over the mid 1970's Praktica was probably the biggest selling SLR in the UK by far. To put it in perspective the Pentacon sold around 4 million Praktica L series cameras, that is a lot. If you compare that with all the Rollei 35mm SLR's, Rollei made only 340 thousand including the Voigtlander models and the SL2000F and 3000 series including specialist versions. That is one tenth the number of Prakticas. So the L series Praktica was very successful. Further the L series had a full aperture metering model using electronic transfer of aperture data from 1969 decades before any Japanese camera had electronic data transfer between body and lens. Pentax did not have a camera with full aperture metering until 1973, three years after Praktica. Praktica made the MTL series on well past when it was decidedly old fashioned because it was still their biggest selling camera by quite a margin. The L series Praktica cameras are highly reliable. As for choice of lenses, you can get wonderful lenses from Pentacon, Zeiss Jena and many other suppliers. Carl Zeiss Jena were making lenses under their Carl Zeiss Jena brand until the unification of Germany. I agree with you they are excellent cameras for anyone looking to start film photography. They are excellent cameras full stop.

I think you were a little unfair to Praktica. The B200 introduced in 1979 was well up in specification with the cameras at the time. Very similar specification to the Rolleiflex SL35E except that the Praktica had a dedicated flash, the Rollei did not. Both cameras had an autowinder. The Praktica was considerably cheaper and not to put too finer point on it, the Zeiss Jena lenses available were better than the Rollei Zeiss lenses although the difference was very marginal. The electronic communication between the camera and the lens was a Praktica first, decades ahead of the Japanese, having been introduced with the Praktica LLC in 1969. Praktica knew their market segment both in the world generally and within the Eastern block. They produced innovations when required, their products were extremely high quality and the specification of each model reflected its position in the market. You need to remember that their main market was the Eastern Block so the cameras had to be affordable for consumers within that part of the world. I can tell you from experience of both Rolleiflex and Praktica, who made the most reliable cameras, and it was not West Germany or Singapore. The Rolleiflex SL35ME and the Rolleiflex SL35E where both complete dogs for reliability, mine were always at Rollie UK being repaired. The Praktica cameras I owned never failed at all. The BMS was a deliberate stripped back version of their more highly specified models but I would agree that the cameras did not really advance after the B200. Today when students look for a film camera, they could do a lot worse than buy a Praktica.

Very nice presentation, and the cameras are in excellent condition! The engravings are part of the camera's history, so I wouldn't fill it in. B1 film is the same as 117-film, for six 6x6 exposures. B2 is 120. The B1 window was removed in later production. I don't like the long throw focusing. I find it less precise, since you have to turn the focus knob back and forth and the subject will never "snap" into focus. The Tessar was machanically limited to 3,8 because of the shutter at the time, but that was fixed for the later version of the Standard (and Rolleicord). The bubble level was a part of the camera from the factory. The groundglass has a clear spot for it. I love the Tessar and Triotar lenses and think they have more character than the Planar/Xenotar, especially at large apertures.

I've recently had a revelation that I dont actually particularly care about the 2:3 aspect ratio....It may have been the only poor decision Oscar Barnack made (at least for my photography!). I do love shooting old film cameras, and I love printing the images in "cheap" books/magazines, and honestly you realize pretty quickly that a landscape image is just a cumbersome thing for those purposes. I love small cameras, candid photography -- so this camera really does seem like a dream, an everyday rolleiflex (which i love to shoot). I will admit though I've owned a Contax IIa and there was one thing that keeps from shooting it -- The Massively loud KLLAAACKKK, which really kills the mood of candid photos. So I have to ask, did Zeiss Ikon manage a quieter shutter with the leaf shutter here? The quiet shutter is a thing I love about my Rolleiflex.

l bought a Kowa 35mm in about 1968/9 from a store at Rotterdam Europoort dock complex whilst in the merchant navy. l didn't really know anything about cameras, otherwise l would have bought a Canon, Nikon etc SLR focal plane cameras....l kept it for a couple of years when l sold it for a Pentax Spotmatic. by that time l knew more about photographic equipment...The Kowa was a nice camera, took some nice photographs whilst l was at sea. But it was restricted lens wise, compared with the other Japanese makes where interchangeable lenses were normal.....

About 35 years ago, I bought a mint Voigtlander Vitessa L at a swap meet for $75, about half its value but for a failed selenium meter, much as shown here. Thinking I had nothing to lose, I pulled apart the meter housing to the point where I removed the cell, only then understanding that the cell is not soldered into the circuit. I did a contract cleaning, as here, and the meter both came to life and was quite accurate. I treated the camera as a collectible, so it sat for years, cased and dark, but I checked it a few years ago, and the meter was only a bit active. It might live again with another cleaning. On the Vitessa, the meter is much easier to access, as you need only pull a spring-tight retaining ring off the meter surround, and you are there.

Useful review in many parts though a little more familiarity with the camera, before reviewing, may be appreciated by many. I will point out too that the D70 is the half frame size sensor, turned to horizontal orientation, in your comparison against Micro Four Thirds. The Olympus MFT camera is a quarter frame camera.. the sensor size being half that of the full frame in both dimensions.. hence the 2x crop factor.. namely the lenses deliver an image circle at the sensor plane that is one quarter the illuminated area than delivered by a similar coverage full frame lens. Many thanks.

This is exactly what I need. Am downsizing and found this in a closet; it belonged to my dad. Figured I'd give a try and see if it still works.

Maybe the side tripod socket was intented for a handle attachment?

Im still looking for a good deal on a yashica SLR, hope u have fun with yours and keep up the good work man! :D

Very good modifications, I love the focusing tab so much. I would love to see more interesting accessories from Pentax as well as 3rd parties, the Pentax 17 is such a fun camera to shoot with. I think Pentax 17 is not designed to accept conventional lens hoods, may be a shorter canonet hood style will work (with a cut out for light meter).

A good review as always. I bought a Yashica FXD Quartz in the early 1980s when they were new. It was a lovely camera, and the standard 50mm lens was superb. Fast forward 30 years or so, and having gone digital and then returned to film, the first camera I re-purchased was the FXD. I wondered if I'd been guilty of allowing nostalgia to influence my decision. That was probably true, however the Yashica didn't disappoint at all. As someone who mostly shoots in aperture mode, I love the meter button on the front as this seems perfect to me in use, much better than half pressing the shutter. I've had my 2nd Yashica for a good decade now, and apart from batteries, it's proved fine. The only downside to Contax and Yashica cameras, (here in the UK in any case) are the price of the lenses. Equivalent lenses for Minoltas, a brand I also love, are significantly less expensive, and far easier to come by.

Aside from the body covering, both cameras have held up over the years. Either would be a good choice for photographers who want a smaller SLR. Because of the wear to the Yashica's body covering, you usually can pick up one of these with the 50mm lens for less than US$40, making it a good choice as a starter cameras. I suggest always keeping a spare set of batteries on hand. Here's a link to the website for the replacement body coverings for these and other cameras: aki-asahi.com/store/

I think (but I'm not certain) that the model you have there is an early version due to its blue highlighted buttons. I would also suggest that yours has been 're-skinned' with a more attractive covering. I absolutely love my EM. It's so lightweight and easy to carry everywhere that I use it far more often than either of my F2's which are massively heavy (even more so with a lens attached). The EM is not a camera to take into a war zone (like the F2), but perfectly adequate for most people's 'ordinary' needs. They obviously lack the features of the 'pro' models but are great as, say, a travel camera. And they're so easy to use with simple match-needle metering rather than the confusing and hard to see red LEDs of many other Nikon SLRs. Have a look at David Hancock's review for detailed information.

Does the shutter function without a battery?

The shutter speed dial on the B35 can be very stiff to turn if gripped with the finger and thumb. The plastic ring seems to crush so I’ve found that turning the camera to face you and using both thumbs one each side of the dial is much easier. I’ve also found the wind on spool becomes very stiff to turn and the film can have its sprockets torn when rewinding. I found helpful notes online about very careful lubrication. Hope these points are helpful but I agree, best buy the real thing.

I have the updated model of this camera, the Praktica MTL 5 B. For the lightmeter it uses a single LR 44 button cell. You forgot to mention the one feature, that defies the Praktica cameras from other Eastern Bloc made cameras - the PL (Pentacon Loading) easy load system, which makes film loading quite easier.

The Canon PowerShot had been dropped at some point and is no longer functioning. The lens squeals when it extends, and there is no image showing on the LCD, which also has some minor damage. You can take a photo, but you just get a black image. I needed some screws, so I've stripped it for parts - mostly screws. That circular brass plate is part of the Kiron zoom lens, which someone disassembled. I have the rear of the lens reassembled, but the helicals are out of sorts, so I'll probably have to tear this down to sort out whatever is wrong with it. It's also missing the small ball bearing for the aperture click stops, but I can replace that. In addition that, it's missing several grub screws from the front of the lens. The camera, which is the reason that I bought this, is in very nice condition, except for the foam seals and body covering.

ihagee represents the german pronunciation of an abbreviation consisting of three letters: i, h, g. So you should pronounce it as: EE, HAH, HAY.

Great video. I love Spotmatics and other Pentaxes, owning the SPII, ESII, and the earlier models K (with 55mm zebra lens) and SV. BTW, Beseler engraved its name on the Topcon RE Super that it imported into the U.S.

I have a lovely little Vito II with the 1/500 top speed . I inherited it from my grandfather. I’ve had it serviced by a professional and it works really well .

I have had fun using these cameras, which are still plentiful today. The Vito III is different from the others in all aspects and will give you excellent photos. Because these were built in the 1950s (1940 for the original model), you should expect to service them. Also, any time that I've searched for "Vito," I also see photos of a clarinet that shared the name.

what’s the best type of battery for this camera??

Version 1?

I love owning objects that have been engraved by the original owner. It's part of the history of the device. Knowing who first used it is pleasing to me. Someone loved that camera enough to make an effort for it to be returned to them if lost or stolen. That speaks directly to how much effort that person expended to be able to afford it. Having covered sporting events as a young photojournalist, I can see the utility of the sportsfinder. Even then track and field sprinters moved fast, and following them with the reflex finder would have led to a lot of missed shots.

I really hope that your channel grows. You have a great presentation style.

One thing that surprised and impressed me was how the size of the frame remained the same since the 1930s - even as more features were added to it. That's quite a feat. For more information about the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord twin-lens cameras, visit Rolleiclub: www.rolleiclub.com/ (I have no affiliation with that site and provide the link as a resource.)

Excellent

Great video. My late father was given an MTL 5B as a gift in the late 80s, then when I got into photography he gifted it to me a few years later. The camera has stayed with me for 30 years. At one point it jammed, then I left it in a draw for 17 years and somehow it had unjammed itself 😅 Now on around my 15th film since getting it out again. I love the very definite shutter sound and the familiarity means I don't ever touch a film camera that isn't a praktica. I also have the MTL 50,which differed only in that the light meter uses LEDs of varying glow, rather than a needle.

What about metering the selenium cell? (Both the voltage and resistance). Does this give useful information? I have many Rolleiflexes. The merger comes out easily and rapidly. Are there any measurement parameters that I can take to see how healthy the meter is?

I still have a the Sony Cybershot DSC P120 in black that I bought new in 2004/5 while I was in Austria . It’s one of only two cameras I’ve ever bought new. It still works well. I have a modest collection of Sony Cybershot cameras from that period as well as a similar amount of Pentax Optio models . My main love is still film though

Mechanical cleaning of the contacts is a good practice. It's also worthwhile to clean the selenium chemically in a weak acid. A overnight soak in household vinegar will do that nicely without damaging the selenium. Adding a new layer of metallic paint afterwards does help. Even then a selenium cell will eventually fail if it's exposed to light when the camera isn't being used. The electron flow is a one-way street, and there's no reverse.

Most of issues of these meters relies on the cell unlucky. For example i have a rolleiflex 2.8 F and it was recently cla; every contact was cleaned and the meter reacts to light. The problem is that even if it is working the cell is not linear anymore in the response to light, it makes me overexpose in full light and underexpose in low light.... So you're method is nice but probably most of the time will not give you back a fully working meter.