Відео

CMD Engineering sell them, see www.miniature-trains.co.uk/product/miniature-railway-scamp/

No new channel as there are so many already that cover model flying much better than I could hope to. Enjoy your flying. Every flight is a new challenge / adventure and that is what I like.

From various publications it would seem that people have already built electric only versions and CMD Engineering who sell the kit offer 24v battery electric versions with different body styles. That said part of the charm of the Scamp is the mix of petrol engine and electric drive and it gives the driver a lot more to do than just turn a control knob. I would always stick with the petrol electric version for the fun of it.

Hello. Sadly I don't still own the engine but here is some info about it. I purchased the engine on the 5th of August 2006 from Roy Masters (Wombourne, West Midlands) and we kept in touch until his death. Once I got the engine home a friend and I repainted the boiler cladding and water tank (some paint had flaked off) and got the engine back into "as new" condition. I built the green trolley in the video so that the engine could give children rides at my local village fete but it was also used at model traction engine rallies I attended if my friend was with me. For events were I was alone I built a scale wagon but sadly I don't have any video of that. I used the engine for just over three years but in December 2009 I sold it and the wagons to a dealer when I changed over to the 7 1/4" gauge railway engines that are also shown on this video channel. The dealer was View Models (Ash Vale, Surrey) but I never had contact with whoever purchased the engine from the dealer. I hope this little bit of info is of help to you. It was a pleasure to know Roy and to have owned such a beautiful engine that he had obviously put so much time and effort into building.

Your thirteen is very low compared to the 50 in this Maxitrak boiler and my 3" scale Atkinson steam lorry's vertical boiler (of comparable size) also had about 50 tubes. I hope you can get your boiler sorted.

The seat came from eBay and the stand was my own design. If I remember correctly it was 50x50mm steel box section (3mm wall) with webs cut from 3mm sheet mild steel that all came from my "scrap" metal stock. Having just checked my computer files I must have simply eyeballed it's construction as there are no CAD drawings in my archive. If you are building one I hope you get it built as you desire. They are a fun loco to own either for work or play.

They do look incredibly fun, what sort of noise level does the engine give out? Residential neighbors don’t seem too fond of loud machinery

@@secondvalveservices9856 It wasn't as loud as my lawnmower but they also sell kits for very similar electric machines. Have a look at www.miniature-trains.co.uk/product/imp-laser-cut-kit/

@@SmallScaleSteam that’s good to know, thank you

The plans, etc. are all available from CMD Engineering at www.miniature-trains.co.uk/product/scamp/ I hope your build is successful.

Thanks James. That is one solution that I was working on this afternoon. The video and test took place last Thursday and the club inspector has said that a locked second blower valve acting as a limiter would be acceptable.

@@SmallScaleSteam I'm surprised that this is deemed acceptable for the accumulation test. It's not the blower that is being mitigated but excess pressure in the boiler which in theory can be created by the draught when running - you will often see engines blowing off when running and potentially your boiler could exceed the max pressure irrespective of how you limit the blower. The safeties need to limit the pressure build up no matter how that is created surely.

Thinking about this again, the code states : 11.8 The boiler shall then be steamed at the maximum firing rate of the fuel and with full blower operation where fitted. The test shall be continued for sufficient time as to allow the Inspector to be satisfied that stable conditions have been attained. The operation of the safety valve(s) shall be checked to make certain that they operate at the Working Pressure of the boiler (PW) and that the pressure does not exceed the Limit (Safe Operating) Pressure during safety valve operation. So if you limit the blower then you aren't steaming at "the maximum rate of the fuel" so you are artificially restricting the maximum possible pressure during the test.

@@ianwallis7703 Thanks for taking time to help Ian. As you say the safety valve should be able to cope and prevent the boiler pressure going above the +10% limit no matter what occurs. Since this video was made I have found that even the simple natural draughting of the fire (no blower or engine running) could take the fire from dull at 60 psi to an inferno at 115 psi in around ten minutes (working pressure is 100 psi). How the boiler "as purchased" could ever be acceptable is a mystery to me and the club boiler inspectors. By gradually welding in strips of metal to close off the slots in the Maxitrak grate I have found that I needed to reduce the openings to 51% of that used by Maxitrak to prevent the natural draught issue. That has calmed the boiler but the potential is still there for a blower, or operating engine exhaust blast, to create more steam than the safety valve can release. My current work is the manufacture of a better safety valve than that supplied by Maxitrak but the problem is that Maxitrak use a banjo union around the safety valve to feed steam to the regulator and that (together with the bush welded in the boiler) limits the safety valve throat diameter, so a larger safety valve cannot be fitted to the boiler. I am hoping that a safety valve designed in accordance with Gordon Smith's "mild pop" design will solve the problem as they can supposedly pass more steam than the simple "ball and spring" valve supplied by Maxitrak. If the new safety valve doesn't work then I do not currently have any ideas other than to accept my club boiler inspectors idea of condemning the boiler as unfit for purpose. How it passed three Southern Federation tests in its previous guise is a complete mystery as the boiler originally had a funnel over three times as long as I am using which should have made the natural draughting, and thus steam accumulation, much worse. I have not managed to get anyone in the club that issued the first and second test certificates to respond to my enquiries, and the second owner told me that he had made "major changes to the blower and blast pipe" to obtain the third test certificate. Strangely those changes were not on the boiler when I purchased it and the owner did not reply when I asked him what the changes were. That final test certificate is also invalid as section 4d (type of test undertaken) is not filled in and there are no dates on the certificate for Date of Test and Date of Certificate. Overall the boiler and it's associated parts as purchased seem to be of unsatisfactory design and to have a questionable certification history. Discussions with Maxitrak imply that the boiler and everything around it are original, or in the case of my new ash pan and funnel match, their design for their 7 1/4" gauge Chaloner that the boiler was built for so it should work and be safe to use. When I have made and tested the new safety valve I shall post another video.

Thanks for subscribing, and sadly I'm still in the UK but there is a story behind the name on my new engine. I have been lucky enough to visit all seven continents, but a three week backroad cycling holiday in 1998 convinced me that the South Island is the nicest area I have seen. The new engine was built as something to do during the first Covid lockdown but the boiler and engine had been bought "on spec" and unseen for a different project. Unfortunately the "spec" was wrong and the boiler wouldn't fit what I meant it for so I remembered a model railway article from the 1990's that showed a logging camp railway that had an 0-4-0 yard engine that had supposedly been built from "scrap" parts. There is a similar model engine kit currently available from Backwoods Miniatures (see www.backwoodsminiatures.com/xvbt02.jpg). Thanks to UA-cam I also follow the "Goat's" channel (see ua-cam.com/video/HbqqSZNqySU/v-deo.html) that showcases the South Island, and while designing the new steam engine I happened to watch one of his videos shot on the Rangitata. I don't think there is enough woodland there for a logging camp, but I liked the name and putting all of the above together led to the name on this fictitious engine.

@@SmallScaleSteam Nice, what a cool story. I do a vintage car rally with a mate around Fairlie and that general area, it's certainly a beautiful part of the country. I'm restoring a Series 2 Land Rover, once that's going I plan to go on a bit of a drive around that area and south, just explore it more.

It was RAL 1007.

Not quite right. We are all members of our local club. I provided Scamp and the wagon, another member provided the mini digger BUT we all work to build and maintain the track so that the rest of the club can run their engines.

Scamps can run in very small spaces. Have a look at this video ua-cam.com/video/VbdxEZhfP1Q/v-deo.html

Sadly I no longer own Scamp but that year working with it was amazing. I didn't use the clutch because a) I found it almost impossible to set up with it either slipping under load or dragging when it should have been disengaged, and b) because in practice it just wasn't needed. I just engaged it when the working day started and disengaged it to remove the belt tension at the end of the day for storage. The revving you noticed was how I drove Scamp. When moving those heavy loads the engine needed about half throttle before the electronic control was opened or the engine would stall. Then it was a case of balancing the engine throttle and electronic control to get the train moving, and if the wheels started to slip on a damp track you had to quickly reduce power and then reapply it once you had regained traction. On one occasion it pulled the ballast waggon half full, plus three other wagons loaded with a generator, welding gear, tools, and 5 people perched onboard. That was about it's limit, but we estimated the total train weight as around two tons. The Wherwell track also has some quite long grades and with that huge load Scamps brakes couldn't cope, so going down hill relied on a couple of the crew operating the brakes on the wagons they were riding. A real team effort ! I guess you could fit a more expensive controller to get dynamic braking but I never had heat problems with my Scamps brakes. What I learnt was that you had to anticipate what you wanted Scamp to do. So if the train weight was high and a steep descent was coming up you got the speed right down before beginning the descent and kept the speed low and under control with Scamps' brakes throughout the descent. The brakes wouldn't slow a heavy train on a descent if you started too fast. On steep climbs you needed to get the speed up before the hill and then if traction was lost very quickly reduce the power and reapply it once traction was regained. Skilful driving would get very heavy loads up quite nasty climbs. Scamp was always a delight to drive and when the driver worked in unison with Scamp it did prodigious work while rewarding the driver. An engine that like my original Gentoo is sadly much missed.

@@SmallScaleSteam thank you so much for the very detailed reply. Was it an option of putting Scamp in reverse to control speed on a grade?

There was nothing to stop you switching into reverse but the cheap controller I used would probably have been destroyed by the induced voltage / current. I think you would need to fit a much more complex power system to use dynamic braking because the normal Scamp system works (mainly by luck) over the very wide voltage range produced by the motor used as a generator while more expensive controllers expect a pretty stable 12 or 24 volt system.

@@SmallScaleSteam very good points. If building a Scamp from scratch, I could fit in 2-3 48v 300w dump loads switched in parallel for dynamic brakes.

@@TevisC That would work, and there's plenty of space under the chassis to fit them. I hope you go ahead with building a Scamp as I'm sure you would enjoy owning one.

I don't think you would get that to work on the Stafford / Feldbahn / General Gordon locos sold by Station Road Steam in their "Clubman" range Stephen. The grate is across the centre of the firebox tube section (where it can be at it's widest) which only allows a fire about 20 to 30 mm deep, and if you tried to lower the grate to allow a deeper fire then the grate area would quickly decrease. It's a fundamental problem with small marine style boilers that the fire is very shallow. Sorry, but although you could try I don't think it would adapt to a wood burner. Regards, Colin.

@@SmallScaleSteam Thanks for your advice 😊

I used the parts specified on the shopping list that comes with the laser cut steel kit. Motor and generator are identical 36v 800w from Red Circles Motorcycles and cost £50 each. They are more typically used in mobility scooters. The speed control was from eBay, search for 12-50V 2000W MAX 40A PWM DC Controller and costs about £10 but you need to add a reversing switch as the speed control is only that and doesn't offer reverse.

Hopefully there will be a new video in a few months when my current project gets on track. The boiler and engine are complete and currently I am designing the chassis using CAD to get drawings off to the laser cutters.

@@SmallScaleSteam very nice. I read all your Text from your old Hompage.Because I have the same Train ,with total the same Problems.... Best regards Chris from Germany

The kit from CMD includes all the special laser cut parts, and if you wish as an extra the wheels can be welded to the axles and the sprockets to the layshaft. The rest is a pretty much a nut and bolt job to assemble. The rest of the parts come from a shopping list which Chris or myself can supply, along with a fully illustrated set of instructions. Contact me on colin@colinedmondson.com

The kit I purchased was just the laser cut steel parts, but the wheels and axles were available separately from CMD. The assembly instructions included a full list of all the other parts required to complete the model (petrol engine, electric motors, gears, chains, nuts and bolts, etc.), with nearly everything being available from eBay. If you paint the model yourself you could complete it for well under £2000 (at the time I built mine). But please note that as mentioned in the video I chose to modify my kit, and I had it professionally spray painted (trying to paint outdoors in a British winter never works for me) , so my model did cost me more than £2000.

The drive motor was rated at 36 Volts 800 Watts, but because the petrol engine drove an identical motor used as a dynamo I don't know what voltage was actually being used to run the loco. I bought both motors from NOVA Products (www.novaproducts.co.uk/partsItem.aspx?PartRef=74) and the electronic controller was a 12-50V 2000W Max 40A Pulse Width Modulated DC Controller (www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-50V-40A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-MAX-PWM-RC-Electronic-Controller-2000W-New/264063309383?hash=item3d7b665647:g:~CEAAOSwdHpcIt0t:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true) Pulling power will depend on the gear ratio you use between the drive motor and the wheels, as well as the wheel diameter. However traction is more important as a powerful loco with poor traction will pull next to nothing, and Scamp does so well because of the weight of the driver being on top of the loco. Sadly I can't give you the gear ratio used on Scamp as I never measured the parts supplied in the kit and simply purchased the axle gear the kit designer recommended for best pulling power. I hope this helps. Good luck with whatever you create.

I recommend the drive be geared for a top speed of 5mph for maximum pulling power, or10mph for a 'Gentleman's light sporting locomotive'.

On Scamp 29 I used a 26 tooth sprocket and found that with a train weight of over 1 ton and my 13 stone mass on the Scamp the drive wheels would start to slip on dry steel rails just before full power was reached on some of Andover's gradients. However when running "light engine" the Scamp still had a top speed that was more than fast enough, in fact I never ran on a track where full speed felt safe to use.

Thanks for your replies, SmallScaleSteam sorry I never got notified of your first reply so I've only just seen it now. I'm currently deciding between petrol-electric or petrol-hydraulic. Electric would be cheaper (and clearly has enough pulling power as you've demonstrated), but hydraulic should provide more power to the wheels, and use less space. I'm currently drawing up the loco in CAD to see what I can fit in it! I'll let you know if it eventuates to anything, thanks for your help!

If it's any help to you. The end weight boxes were made from 80x80x3mm steel box section with 3mm sheet end caps welded on and mounted using angle brackets onto the existing derailing bar holes. The box at the motor end has the top and rear faces cut away (leaving about a 9mm edge) to clear the motor and its cradle. The brake cable routes into the cutout and exits through the lower 9mm lip on the box centreline to reach the brake mechanism. The tractor seat pillar (50x50x3mm steel box) is offset 50mm from the centre line to maintain balance. The bonnet top plate has to be rolled because with the big hole cut through it will no longer simply bend to shape. Place a stack of towels on a flat surface, lay the bonnet plate on the towels, and roll with a rolling pin. That way you can bend the plate to the correct curves without use of any rolls etc. I hope this info helps if you want to modify your Scamp. If not it is a really easy kit to build and a lot of fun to operate. As I wanted a load puller I used to lower end of the recommended gear sets, but it still runs at about 6 to 7 mph which is fast enough for most tracks. Have fun !

Hi Josh. I haven't had any problems with the wheels or transmission on my Druid but I did make a few modifications when building it. After using Loctite to attach the wheels to the axles I drilled and tapped the joint to fit a 2BA socket grub screw. That prevents the wheels from coming loose on the axles, even if the Loctite joint fails. I also fitted longer (110mm) M10 bolts through the suspension springs to allow the suspension to work better. If you would like to contact me by email for further discussions then please go to www.gentoosjournals.co.uk and use the "Contact" page to email me.

ok done that, the email should be something like (joshdriver) at the start

Sorry Josh but my website email doesn't seem to be working anymore (probably because SRS have taken over ownership). You can email me on egross909@yahoo.com but my reply will come from a different email address so please check your spam folder if my reply doesn't appear in your inbox.

Sadly we don't operate public trains on the society railway so at present I don't have any video of it working. From past experience with electric engines it should be able to pull about 8 adults (2 coach loads) around most tracks. With large leisure batteries fitted and the two huge solid steel couplers on the buffer beams it has plenty of weight for adhesion and the 1 horsepower drive motor is coupled to a relatively low gear ratio.

Hi, would like 1 myself ,would you consider making another ,as like the whistle system brakes etc

The amount of work involved would make it too expensive for any potential buyer, but I would happily supply photos and other information to anyone who wants to copy the systems I have added to the model (and Phoenix Locomotives still supply the Druid kit).

ok ,what controller is fitted and what type batteries fitted as noticed you have different handset

The standard iDrive controller is used but I built a new hand controller to add the push buttons controlling the vacuum brake system. I also fitted the Led battery status display in the hand controller instead of fitting it in the loco. These changes required a 12 core cable to be used, connecting the hand controller to the loco via a 15 way D type connector. The batteries are 85 Ah from Tayna batteries.