Відео

Nicely explained, from unboxing to demonstrating it running and then something on then working principle. I just noticed a pulley groove on the crank end of the flywheel; might be able to sling a wee belt around it to drive a dc motor, to light a bulb.

I am excited to see how this one turns out. I will be attempting this kit soon. Need to get my advent 2024 series out the way first.

A nice machine, but I'm surprised that no gaskets are used between the parts that contain steam pressure (or compressed air). The piston ring, which is made like an O-ring, is also a weak point. The rubber ring will wear out quickly. Finally, ball bearings would have made the whole thing more efficient and durable. But still a nice machine that could be fun to build :) Greetings from Denmark

Fun

😂❤

She is a sweet heart ❤

Cheers Mark, appreciate the mention. Looking forward to seeing this engine progress. Nice approach to setting up the flywheel to get a visually true wheel. 👍👍

Thanks for the shout out

this is a problem with a lot of processes. Reactions tend to happen at an accelerated rate at the air-fluid interface. If you you are treating a part by soaking, it needs to be fully submerged. Doesn't matter if it's Evapo-Rust, acid, or cleaning solution.

Nice job 😃

great job completed

i dont know if it's the same thing as winks, but winks is hydrochloric acid

Nice work but a question what was the reasoning behind cutting the knurl slot with slitting saw as opposed to end mill.

Very nice work sir

EvapoRust did NOT etch iron or steel, & it does NOT draw carbon out of cast iron or steel. EvapoRust is a chelating agent that forms covalent bonds with the iron in iron odixes, which seperates the iron from the oxygen where it dissolves in solution. The black patina left behind on the metal part is Black Iron Oxide, a.k.a Ferro Ferric Oxide (Fe3O4)... which is a byproduct of chelating the rust. This Ferro Ferric Oxide (Fe3O4) is chemically identical to the iron oxide formed when Blueing steel or iron... a chemical patina used to protect steel & iron from further rusting.

You’ve done a very good job of this so far. Your fly-cutting (with Arceurotrade mini flycutter?) of the radii for the pivot blocks worked particularly successfully. I notice you tapped the holes for the knurling wheel axles M6. I vaguely remember the plans suggesting something like 1/4” BSF. Am I right there? Are there any other changes from the plans you have made? I’ll be very interested to see the completed project, and, crucially, what results you can get from it. I bought the same kit ages ago but haven’t had time to make much progress with it yet. One last thing: you are using what appears to be a (shop-made?) angle plate that takes pins. Can you tell us a bit more about this? It looks interesting. All the best, and keep up the good work!

Tap it with a small hammer It should ring , if cracked will be a dull ring

Love how all the guys convinced it was cracked in the previous video have disappeared. Haha!

My guess is that like many rust-convertor solutions, it probably contains certain percentage of Phosphoric acid, which will etch into ferric metals as well as clean the surface. Another thing that those rust-convertor solutions will do is totally destroy spring-steel particularly thin springs (ie; watch-springs, or case/latch springs) even if they're only submerged for a short period of time!

I also found out about the Evapo-Rust waterline corrosion some years ago. I was trying to restore some old chain saw bars that were rusty. I was a plastic protective bar scabbard as a tank to soak the bars in. One bar was too long, & so when I pulled it out of the solution, I discovered that I now had an etched line across the steel. You can also use a small circulating pump to keep the entire surface of the object wet to prevent this from happening.

That looks like a crack to me.

It was already cracked (the rust covered up etch) and your an idiot.

Good to know, i'll keep this in mind. i've got an old keller power hacksaw that has... a "small" amount... of rust that needs removing.

Just bought some evapo about to see if it really works.

Thanks for an excellent cautionary and educational video. Will fully submerge the item, got it.

Exactly, Evaporust leaves an etched line if the part is not fully submerged. I learned this about the second time I ever used it!

I prefer citric acid for most jobs. But if I need extremely fast results I use muriatic. But both of these will eat up the base metal as well if left in too long.

I put a bunch of old icky hand tools and rusty machinery tools in a 5 gallon pail with evapo rust. I put a lid on it so i literally forgot about it. about 6 months later i realized oops. I opened the pail and everything was black. Winter was coming so i just left them in there and the following spiring everything was a light grey color and looking brand new.

Here’s the rescue video. The etched lines were between 5 and 10 thou deep, and all came out with a light skim. ua-cam.com/video/5mgdkYpWnok/v-deo.htmlsi=aumGbeXlEaNbbaEJ

I've been meaning to buy some for a couple of large knives I have (my father let them get rusty, then I got them after he died). Now I know how important having the metal fully submerged is.

Nice save - definitely better than living with it.

Thanks for posting this information. I wonder why no one talks about Rust 911, which comes in a concentrated form and can be diluted up to 16:1. I have a gallon but have not had the time to try it out to see if I am satisfied with its performance. They do recommend a certain start point but if it works, it is cheaper than Evapo-Rust.

80 year old mine mech. Chased lots of cracks over the years. This sounds ridiculous to me. The crack was there I'm sure or is a bad casting flaw perhaps. You need to use crack checker, following directions. You will be surprised what you will discover in many critical parts

😂😂 loser it was cracked prior to going in the evapor rust you just uncovered it.

👀good work Mark 👍👍.

Sorry to hear you ran into that problem. That kind of thing is why I bought 4 gallons of it when i was redoing one of my drill presses....you can also if you dont have enough volume, put it in a garbage bag and use that to reduce the volume you need. You may also have had better luck for the part that was out of the liquid to put paper towels over it to get the entire surface moist...then put a lid on the container to reduce evaporation/keep the fresh oxygen cycling past to a minimum. I also check my parts after 2-3 hrs...I have never had to leave anything in for half a day even for extreme rust. So you may have left it in too long as well. In any case thanks for sharing, as it is a good thing to keep in mind when people use stuff like evaporust.

put the object in a plastic bag , ad some evaporust and position the bag so that the object is covered by the evaporust everywhere. problem solved.

I don't get it. The diagonal line looks like Weld Seam or where two ends are forged together. It looks like it etched a bit deep. I'm just saying that's what it "looks like". I'm not saying that's what it is. Alternately, it looks like a defect. It cracked while in use or maybe like thermal shock or something. It' looks too "Neat" to be the result of acid etching ? Again.. To Me.

The amount of negativity and know-it-allism in the comments is astounding as always. This is a great tip and I appreciate it! The interaction with the air at the surface of the liquid must cause a very fast oxidizing process. You could add just a little weld to those spots and sand them flat. TIG would be ideal.

I've been using evaporust since I saw a few machinists and tool restorers use it. Does it have a shelf life? Because the first few times I used it (poured it in a tray, then into a glass jar) it worked great. I poured some fresh from the jug into a larger container for larger parts, and it didn't seem as effective. Like, every time I checked it, the rust was still there.

Thinking about it, it kind of makes sense - right at the boundary between air and liquid, you've got a ready supply of oxygen corroding the surface and a chemical agent actively removing the corrosion. Normally with surface rust, it stops at the surface because the rust keeps the oxygen away (hence protective oxide layers). When you react it away like this though, oxygen once more has access to form new rust.

Those lines don't intersect as the flywheel was in a liquid, I've never seen Evapo-Rust remove that amount of material off any metal I soaked in it. Also the line across the face isn't straight as it should be if it was a water line, I think @hughezzell10000 might be correct about a crack or a flaw in the material were the Evapo-Rust may have highlighted the Flaw. Just like Mana fluxing does.

This seems suspect. I've left rusted parts, including cast in evaporust for months at a time and never had anything like this happen. Always great results. In fact, I tried the same test with about a dozen different products and the only one that did any damage was an older rustoleum product that doesn't seem to be available now.

any one who uses the stuff enough eventually has this happen to them

If you do not fully submerge in the fluid, the top layer interacts with the air. Follow the directions.

I had this exact same thing happen when I left a metal rod standing up in a glass of vinegar that I used to remove rust from things for a few months, it removed the metal and etched it a bit where it was fully submerged but it REALLY etched the metal right at the surface to the point it was half as thick there. I think it may have to do with oxygen being available right next to where the acid is actively removing oxidation

Magniflux it. I thunkbit is cracked long ago.

I just wanted to say, that not only is it cracked. You have carbon inclusion in the flywheel

Alright, so to add to the question about the part being half-out, it was resting at that angle, and the oxygen + Evapo-Rust = microscopic etching circuit? And submerging the part completely would prevent this? And additionally, if I had a metal plate that I wanted to play with, I could leave small pools of Evapo-Rust on it and the interface between the pools and oxygen would create neat patterns?

Was the part cleaned with a cleaning solvent or solution prior to evaporust exposure?