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Awesome! I miss mine as well. It’s not practical for me anymore, but I miss that sweet triple noise.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. The sled has had more mods done since that video. What have you done to yours?

@@jasonblier Back woods bumpers. C3 powersports belt drive. Low profile seat. Tubular running boards. Headlight delete. Air box delete. CFR bars and risers. Rapter shocks. Belly pan skid plate. Removable sway bar. And just ordered SLP skis and munster ski savers. Also powder coating A arms white to match other parts. Heated dash bag. 12 volt plug in. Aux light. Quick clickers on primary. Also ordered a moutain fit 5 peice panel vent kit. Looking to do more.

@@Kwobler Very nice setup!! I just put a belt drive on as well. Send me a few pics of it when it’s all done - I bet it looks bloody bad-ass.

@@jasonblier Modding a sled is never done. Thats why your vid helped alot. Sparked new ideas.

“Truer words” lol. I figured I was done and then today I installed an adjustable brake lever, different stabilizer links, and heavy duty spring guides. It’s done now…..I swear….. maybe… :)

I’m in Northwestern Ontario.

@@jasonblier, I'm in the process of rebuilding 2 98s, mach1 700 and formula 3 600. Was wondering how close we were, seems like you know alot about these engines. In your opinion, better to drill the oiler holes for the isoflex bearings, or just maintenance every season and repack the bearings? How's your sleds holding up on them bearings?

@@spiceolife On the triple engines, I am a fan of drilling the oil hole on the PTO side. And running open (non-sealed) bearings. You can’t remove the PTO seal without splitting the case, so repacking the bearings is not really feasible. This was rectified on the etec engine where the PTO seal is removable and regreasing the PTO bearing is easy. I ran my sled for a few years with the oil holes and had no issues before I sold it. The new owner is still running the sled, so I would say it’s the way to go.

@@jasonblier thanks bruv. I appreciate your responses, and the videos you put together. Not easy responding to everyone all the time. Good on you, especially years later after a upload. Thanks for that. Do you happen to still have any of the triple parts you've acquired? Probably not, but I could use a good used cylinder. Thought I'd ask.

@@spiceolife anytime! Happy to help. I don’t have any of the parts anymore - they were cleared out a couple of years ago - went to a few locals with triples.

Yes, you can definitely do that. Just remove the shifter linkage and plug the hole in the case (if you remove all the guts). You can also buy a new or used solid bottom gear for pretty cheap and replace the 2pc bottom gear. Either way should work.

Thanks! I’ll leave the “guts” (shifting fork) in for now to avoid having to plug the hole and see if I can find a single speed gearbox for next season.

Thats a great question. According to Powderfreaks, they have people going on 5 years with this engine in the mountains. My engine is ported more conservatively, so less chance of structural issues with the exhaust ports. Also, I trail ride, so I’ll be pretty easy on this engine overall. A few things that potentially make it more reliable than stock: - ensuring the crank is in good shape (bearings and runout) - booster injectors that bring fuel into the bottom end. This cools the crankcase and promotes oil migration vs no fuel in the case. - pistons are Wossner HD units. These are very tough and should take everything I could throw at them (these are used in turbo and high compression builds). - proper warmup (start engine and don’t even look at the throttle until you are out of warmup mode) then taking it easy for the first few minutes underway is *key* on the 800 etec for longevity.

The seals really go in only one way. They are held mechanically to the case using the small lip on the seal that seats into a groove cut into the case bore. This goes for all the seals (even the ones between the cylinders). You can check out the Ski-doo parts finder to see which way the seals face on the crank. When installing a new seal, it’s good to put grease (isoflex, petamo, or at least some injection oil) on the lip when you install. That’s about it! Let me know if you have more questions! - J

Thanks Brother! I just de-badged most of the sled - so its going to look pretty stealth :)

Well, I know that crank shop had a 750 big bore kit for the 600. I would think that a 3mm over bore would be getting close to the limit for increasing displacement on the 700. So I would think around 750-780 cc would be doable. You can make some good midrange improvements with some tunnel/case porting and mild cylinder porting. Lots of potential.

I was thinking of putting an AFR gauge on - even for initial tuning. In my case, I know the additional fueling requirements, auxiliary injector flow rate, and setting intervals on the control unit. So I can dead-reckon the initial settings and use egt readings to see any “red flag” areas in the rpm range - esp during steady state throttle. But, yes - AFR gauge is the best tool.

Will be interested to see what you get for numbers. we were running a redline turbo off the stock etec injectors with a power commander box. Ran 3.5 lbs of boost with that, wouldn’t do more boost than that on stock injectors but that’s way more than the 862 kit is making. I know the 862 kit had an optional power commander, any reason you chose the Straightline kit instead?

I have s few reasons. 1. The Straightline kit allows tuning on the fly - no laptop needed to make changes and you can see what part of the program is active just by looking at the controller. 2. This kit allows me to have a "wet" crankcase which helps with case temps. 3. I have seen the PC-V act very flakey at random times and not fuel correctly. Duane at Powderfreaks also noted the same issues. 4. Duane at Powderfreaks recommended this kit over the PC-V if I had the choice. That's pretty much it.

Just an update for you: I have had the sled out to get a primary tune on the fuel controller. I have 5% extra fuel across the RPM range. I probably only need 3%, but I will fine tune that when I get the rest of my equipment. For now, it runs really nice, EGT's are "cool" for the most part 980-1000 degrees on the pipe sensor. If I add more fuel, it starts to "drag" a bit. Tuning is super easy and takes about 10 seconds to make a change in the Aux fuel map.

Hi Steve, I would do crank seals during an engine rebuild. The seals on these engines require that you split the crankcase to change them. Also, the middle seals between each cylinder can’t be changed without rebuilding the crank. So, if you are doing a rebuild due to a top-end failure, I would tear it down and change out the crank to a new/rebuilt unit.

Thank you very much

I generally have no issues with the self tapping fasteners- except when they are tapped in a magnesium housing - the magnesium is a bit brittle, so I like to tap them out and put a normal bolt in there.

I would think it’s doable. You may have to do some research on tricking a few of the sensors, but I’m sure someone has run an etec in a kart.

@@jasonblier i would love to put it in a trike paraglider. what is its weight? can a centrifugal clutch be added? do sno mobiles have these parts if i just get a n old complete sno mobile?

@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 fully equipped, the engine is about 50 lbs. it has a centrifugal clutch driven directly off the crankshaft.

@@jasonblier thanks. I started looking at your vids. thanks. I think I may try to find one of these and use it for a paraglider or some other project.

Thanks!

@@jasonblier can I ask what kind of power you are expecting from this build?

​@@rdallas81it says in the video

@@darreng2639 ok. I missed it. Watching while working.

@@rdallas81 sure can! I’m expecting between 178-180hp on the top end. But more importantly, there will be a 25hp increase in the midrange (according to the dyno graphs) which is more what I’m interested in. I’m spinning a 154” track with 2.07 gear ratio (most 154” are at 2.4-2.5 gear ratios) so the extra midrange will be nice for the higher gearing I’m running.

Right on - I should have the new 0-mile head and cylinders from the crate engine available if you decide to do a straight rebuild also. I’ll definitely post an update once I have it running.

@@jasonblier I'll keep that in mind. It was a back up sled that my son was using primarily. I bought him a used 600 backcountry this fall. So it's now pushed farther back in the garage haha. I have trouble getting rid of my sleds, so I will likely rebuild it. 😁

So I have the ETX battery in my sled. The issue is that it doesn’t work well under -15C for starting the sled. Doesn’t matter how much I put a draw on it, it just doesn’t work as well as an SLA. On a bike that is not run in the winter, I would agree with everything you said - but at -15 and lower, that’s not the case. The ETZ may actually work better for me as it has less BMS protections but would degrade faster due to the stresses I would put on it - cold weather charging, high current draw, etc. I work with lithium LIFEPO4 batteries every day and build large units for solar power storage - I’m well aware of their benefits and limitations.

I agree with you - might cost some $ in the short term, but BRP will retain loyal customers and gain trust with new customers if they take care of these issues.

I think you are good. A good sign is that you have 117 across all 3 with no deviation. If you have a properly calibrated tester, 125psi is optimal, but 117 is good to go 👍

Awesome. Thank-you Jason. this machine looks almost as good as yours. I'll be a 60 yr old kid grinning from ear to ear on my 1st ride. Carbs are cleaned , And now for the long wait for snow.

I live in Northwestern Ontario. I ride the area between Fort Frances and Schreiber.

@jasonblier would like to ride up there sometime hopefully i can get ahold of you and set up a ride

Look me up! I’d be happy to ride one of the day-loops with you.

@jasonblier sounds great ill contact you here when i can get out for a ride

Thanks! Yes, I have to get my audio dialled in better - a few videos have volume issues. I’ll definitely be working on that. Glad you enjoy the videos 👍

Hi Craig! Yes, parts are a real buggar to find these days. I’ve been out of the classic sled game for a few years now, but if you visit dootalk.com and check out the Triples Forum and Vintage Sled Forum, those guys can point you to some great parts sources, NOS parts, salvage yards, etc. I bet that oil leak will cost next to nothing to fix if you take it on yourself :). I love the SLS, very underrated engine in that sled!

Ouch, that blows! My fingers crossed for you that they can locate parts and have you fixed up before the end of the season.

Hey, thanks!

Thanks! We still have a decent amount of snow in our area. We’ll be riding and ice-fishing into April, no problem.

Thanks, Scott!

I actually found it very helpful - good comparison to a shot start system

For 2022/23 I’ve seen the following from ski-Doo: 600 efi & 900T - fuel filter/pump issues from particulate in fuel tank (from factory). G5 mountain/crossover chassis - lower chain case gear rubbing against chain case due to loose fit on driveshaft hub interface. Etec sleds - some sleds had incorrect oil pump calibration from factory. General electrical - faulty relays (easy fix). Secondary Clutch rollers breaking.

@@jasonblier got to be disappointing to drop that kind of money, I'm an oldish flatlander, seeing stuff like that makes me wonder how they get these sleds to market and so many issues show up inside of 1000kms. Man I'd be pissed, my season is short enough.lol,cheers

@@howrightiam You and me both :). I guess if ya got the disposable income, go nuts - but that’s not my situation :). I never buy a first year product - I’d rather hang a generation or 2 behind - buy them much cheaper, healthy aftermarket, large knowledge base, you can build a sled that is 90%+ of what the brand new ones are.

That’s so funny - I never even noticed that - good eye!

Good point. The good ole silent chains are very strong but the boosted sleds should have HYVO chains to handle the extra abuse and shock load. Glad to head there is a bulletin 👍

I’ll have to double check the gain settings (this vid was shot on my desktop vs my phone or GoPro). It plays at normal volume on my phone though.

Yes, all the Rotary Valve engines were very solid performers and very reliable.

Yeah - I am aware I do that. I’m working on it :) I never have a script and speak off the cuff but I’m learning to structure more of my videos around main talking points. I still do it, but I’m slowly improving. Obviously I’m not going to be a UA-cam sensation :)

It's all good, not interested to insulting any one, just pointing out the facts, none the less, nice sled. I have three '95 GT, not sure were you are, no snow down here, Tweed area. sucks. not even able to ice fish.😕

@@dalesmith8666 no offence taken - I took it as constructive criticism 👍. I’m located in Northwestern Ontario. It raining here now, but temp are dropping overnight. It’s been a crap winter - super mild and only 1/2 the lake ice.

@@jasonblier One thing that got my attention, was the material wrapped around the expansion chambers. What is it and were did you get it? Might be better that the metal shields. Regards

@@dalesmith8666 That stuff is exhaust header/pipe wrap. You need close to 50ft per pipe. It’s available online, at any performance shop, Royal Distributing, Fett Bros, etc. It’s not too hard to work with, but wear gloves. The fibres can poke your skin and cause a pretty bad rash.

Yeah - I love my long track! I would gladly rock a 165, no prob. 95% of people are actually impressed with the sled and understand why I like it. I don’t really care about what the other 5% think :) FYI - your clutch kit is still kickin’ a$$ on this sled. I’m going to gear a bit lower now that the suspension has been upgraded and take advantage of more corner-corner acceleration. Thanks for the comment, Joe!

The greaseable parts are cheap.

Rebuilding the suspension (bushings and sleeves) is a pain in the ass too. This saves the work (and time) and makes it easy to do maintenance.

The mag side sees much less heat than the PTO side - plus the fact that you can’t easily get the old isoflex out of the mag side before adding new grease. There is a risk of overfilling and blowing out the seal. The PTO side is easier to access, easy to clean out old grease, and is the side that needs the attention usually. I may top up the mag side this summer, but after that, I’m not going to worry too much about it. The centre bearings are also iso-packed and you can’t even get to those but they seem to last just fine.

Yes - new and used sled prices are crazy-go-nuts.

The build sheet is to keep track of the progress of the entire sled - not just the engine. For those new to a full restoration project (tear down to the nuts and bolts and build up) on an older sled, it’s a very good way of breaking the project down into smaller tasks, building an accurate cost estimate, and compiling a list of rare/hard to find parts you need to hunt down. You have 40+ yrs of experience with Rotax engines - great. As mentioned in the videos, they are for people new to taking on a project like this and the build sheet is just a system to keep track of everything throughout the process.

Forty years of being a jerk.

You said it - agree 100%

Thanks! Now, with stiffer springs up front (Tundra Xtreme springs) and a bit more sag on the front and rear arms, I bet we can get it to take a corner fairly well - even with the 32” ski stance. But you’ll really have to “hang the ham” out on the corners :)

Thanks again Ian! I'm sending anyone who ask over to you for shock upgrades 👍

I’m not a mountain rider, but the Alpha is a very ambitious innovation from what I can see. I agree that Textron/Cat is being a bit too slow to adapt but given the ecosystem, I kinda get it. Hopefully the Catalyst turns things around for them.

Or do you happen to have a wiring diagram of both models? I’m having a tough time tracking down. A CDI for my 98 f3.

Parts for the 98 & 99’s are a bit hard to come by. Lots of people convert the CK III motors to the <97 ignition system. I honestly can’t remember if you can swap a 98 and 99 CDI around. I think just the connector is different but the wires are the same. You should be able to just change the connector to match. Wire colours should be the same from 98-99. Try here for shop manuals and wiring diagrams: www.dropbox.com/sh/48a8q5wc55gh6gz/AACPo3prUjCHvnDa8MHNBhGfa Hope that helps!

Thanks - but I sold it a few years ago!

Yes, this video was made a couple of months before the announcement of the Catalyst platform.

I’d be very interested to see that!

I sold the triple a few years ago. You could send the crankshaft out to be rebuilt. Crank shop in Vermont is a great place as well as Northern Crankshaft in Michigan or Iantomassi Racing in Ontario, Canada.

Shocks and front end look great Jason. Your sled is going to beast out on the trails this year!

@@jasonblier Ya it's been done before me !! so that's what they are telling me !! it has x mark's at the one end !! but ya thanks !!

You do need to split the cases to change the PTO seal. You can leave the top end on to split the cases, but the water pump, flywheel, stator, mag side cover (oil pump, drive gears) need to come off before the bottom half of the case can be split/removed.