Відео

Hi Buddy, yeah sorry work and home renovations have got in the way! I haven’t been out in the Mazda since April 😢

Thank you for commenting I do appreciate it

Yeah, apparently it’s quite a common thing, just one of many lol

That’s absolutely brilliant, thank you for sharing. Hopefully it’ll help someone else who had the same problem 👌🤞

Glad it was helpful!

It should be more or less level if you haven’t touched the cogs ⚙️, however if you have have you tried the dial in the car to see if it goes up or down

It certainly is!

Agree 👍

I would suggest that piston has been changed from original! They should have groves that allows you to twist them back so that you can change the pads. In relation to the handbrake cable it’s clearly evident that you have a problem somewhere on the network, have you tried to adjust it under the gear knob gaiter?

@@jackos5s yeah, the piston has the same cross grooves as yours but that's it. You seem to suggest there's another indentation on just one of the grooves. The handbrake apparently adjusts itself after some time/use; we shall see.

Sorry I thought you meant the grooves, the tiny little indentation should be there, however if you can see it or the piston has been replaced it may not have one. Therefore just turn it until until it won’t go anymore then unwind it to the nearest groove. Did your handbrake cable work correctly before?

Glad you think so! Thank you for the nice comments

I’m actually quite impressed with how it’s going, it’s been on through high winds, snow and heavy rain without any issues 👍

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you liked it and it helped

Thank you so much for this 👍😊

I’ll double check, but mine worked a treat it was around £200 from Amazon, I borrowed a “proper” mig welder from a welder pall of mine and it was just too powerful, it just blow out the Mazdas steel work because it’s so thin, and that was on the lowest Amp

Did it work?

@@jackos5s Now I know what each thing is to do proper maintenance, greetings from Spain

Great idea, why don’t you do a video 👍

Thank you for the comment Peter, the reason for the spot welds is because the Mazda steel is so thin. If you did a continuous weld, the weld will become too hot and blow out the steel, doing spot welds keeps it cool and “hopefully” stops blow through.

Thank you for the kind words I really do appreciate it, and I’m really pleased it helped you out 👍 due to the rules and regulations on UA-cam I have to say that the video is for entertainment purposes only! However what I can say is that this way of doing it has never faulted me and I’ve done plenty in the past!!

Good comment, I had to re-watch the video lol, no it’s on the front subframe, please don’t use the wishbone as it’s only Aluminium and is easily damaged. Try and use a solid steel structure 👍

What would you like to know Mago

@@jackos5s Thanks for the answer, do you know what the thread of the bolt is? Looking for one of them. I measured it and got 16mm total length

Good question, like every on the Mazda the threads can be different to the standard ones you can find in DIY stores, I highly suggest you give Mazda a ring or join the Facebook page for Mazda NC Parts for sale

Thank you for the comments, the link probably needs removing because the video is now over a year old

The cover plates on your car did you paint them? Sorry for the questions it’s my first mx5 so I’m still getting to grips with what I can do and can’t do on it. I was thinking of spraying mine while they’re off while I undercoat.

That’s why I do the videos to help people, I also recommend MX5-Europe NC/MK3 (2006-2015) group. Can I please ask which covers you mean?

Thanks I’ll take a look at that group now. The blue cover plates you take off to get to the drain / filler plugs.

Yeah I removed all of them, used an angle grinder and wire grinder to remove all the rust, sprayed them with Halfords metal primer them painted them with car spray paint that I had spray in the garage

Peter, I’d absolutely love to do that if the budgets allowed. I’d totally recommend to anyone to do this

@@jackos5s I won't to change my manifold at some point but car is my daily so definitely need sports cat one. BBR would be my choice but think they are £800 so won't be this year got lot on and need to save for that. The other thing is getting the will power to do it myself heard a lot of stories it's pig of job and I can't afford to pay someone to do it. BBR also say u can fit it without a remap on standard car which is a bonus.

They are a pain in the backside and if you’re doing at home you’re going to need two days, but could be done in one if nothing breaks and it all goes well. I have literally just put my old one back on and it took me no more than 1.5 hours. Even with a cheaper manifold it’s definitely worth doing I have no regrets really. Just a pain swapping them around lol

Sorry dude this doesn’t show up on the edit and on the PC, I’ll try and keep it in landscape going forward. Thankfully had the cover on since I made the video and after your comment I removed the cover and everything was perfect no effects of moisture (we’ve had loads of rain as well) I can’t say anything bad about the cover at the moment.

@@jackos5s hopefully the cover works better for you. Apparently they aren't so bad if the car is garaged too. Very odd the video being cut up like that. Hopefully it's a simple fix 👍

Most welcome!

Hi William, that’s great news to hear. I’m from North Lincolnshire, Uk 🇬🇧 thank you for the comment

Ok its done :)

lol 😂 I’m pleased you got it off

This is a great comment and something that I considered but after some head scratching and research I found out that most new plugs no longer need to be adjusted from factory settings due to updated hardware/technology within them. The only time they are gapped by the owner/garage is if they going on to an engine that’s been modified or it has an updated ignition system. It’s a good idea to check the gap but I didn’t want to show this because I didn’t want to be responsible if a viewer broke the electrode.

@@jackos5s gap is the most basic requirement of a spark plug it’s the sole function

Agree but we’re no longer in the 1970/1980s technology has evolved so that they can be replaced without messing around with the gaps especially for your standard engines it even says this on the manufacturers websites

Yeah me too buddy, please you liked the video 👍

Unfortunately not, but I’m sure if you sew in some metal or nylon hoops then it’ll be good to go 👍👍

Brilliant at least I’ve helped 👍👍

That’s great news I’m glad it helped 👍👍

Hi there, do you mean the engine cover? It’s the 2.0 ltr engine 👍👍

@@jackos5s sorry, I meant the engine cover. Thanks!

Just removed it for filming purposes 👍

That’s a good point, however it doesn’t look too bad. Not sure if it’s original or not

Absolutely brilliant, really pleased it helped 👍👍

Unfortunately the link doesn’t work Mousa

Great idea ☺️ the MOT tester said it was really high 🤷‍♂️so not sure of the numbers. Would it be on the MOT fail sheet?

@@jackos5s You used to get the figures on a print-out, but not sure if they do that any more? It should certainly be recorded, so you could ask the tester to look them up for you. The MoT fail just records the reason, in terms of the category the fail was in.

Great idea I’ll give them a shout and see what they say 👍

It’s the standard cat buddy, I’ve only changed the back box and manifold, the back box passed last year but now I’ve put the manifold on it failed

@@jackos5s oh that’s not good! I know my can fail from removing a cat but first I’ve heard from it failing because of the emissions

I know I’m gutted, apparently it was really high on the emissions I even tried to get it down with a ECU re-map. According to the MOT station MOT rules changed this year 🤷‍♂️

@@jackos5s have you checked to see if your mid pipe cat is okay? I’ve heard running a 200 cell midpipe you can still pass emissions with a decat manifold. Unless the rules have changed? How did you find putting the old mani back in?

That’s certainly worth exploring buddy, the car is hold up in the garage at the moment until April as I have to do a bit of welding on the jacking points as well. I might just invest in a mid pipe cat because I think it’s still the original! Fyi great content on your channel 👍👍

Thank you 🙏

Thanks Alf 👍 not sure what to do next! Just leave the old one on or swap them back over once I get the MOT test done!

@@jackos5sI was told adding a additional cat to the midsection is enough

find an MOT tester who might “accidentally” emissions test the wrong vehicle

@@ethanbush-un7pp hard to do apparantly these days

lol 😂 great idea, with my luck I’ll probably end up paying more

Thank you for the comments, I used about 1.75ltr, I had just over a quarter of a litre left.

@@jackos5s Many thanks

Glad you enjoyed it 🙂

@@jackos5s how you doing, long time no speak

All good buddy, work and family commitments have prevented me from doing a lot this year hence the lack of videos! But hopefully it’ll calm down next year! How about you?

@@jackos5s same, busy busy busy! Got some motorsport content coming soon though!

Looking forward to seeing it buddy

My pleasure hopefully it helps

Hi Mick, I think

I think I replied to this question a few episodes back, when you say engine pipes can you please elaborate and I’ll do my best to answer. Regards Jacko

Hi Jack, its the best way I can describe it. What i can say is in your video you can see the insulation on one of the pipes has a split in it or is deteriating. Thanks Mick.

Hi Mick, I had a Quick Look at my car and I’d probably use one of these three: Armaflex (Kaiflex) Pipe Insulation or Armaflex Pipe Insulation - Nitrile Rubber- Black Pipe Lagging or Black Silicone Fibreglass Fire Sleeving HIGH TEMP Sleeve Insulating Hose. I can’t recommend any because of libel laws but I would personally use the armaflex lagging nitrile rubber

@@jackos5s Thanks. Appreciate the advice. Mick