Відео

Worked in the lubrication industry for 20 plus years. The oils that many mechanics use are cheap and don't meet specifications. Don't save on a cheap oil and filter. Cheap is expensive. Quality products are worth it.

Its best practice to drain the filter and the pan at the same time. More oil will come out that way

I've got a 2011 Buick Lucerne CXL with the 3900 (the bigger brother to the 3500), if you use the black WIX filters you can get the white box shop wix (same filter just sold as a shop filter) for less than $2.00 off of rockauto. Even with shipping still cheaper than buying retail, and they are the same thing just one is sold wholesale. I like to use the PuraltorTECH 25288, same as the red one but much cheaper. Also the AcDelco PF61E are nice if you can get them under $4.00. I would use Walmart SuperTech filters but they don't make a filter for this engine anymore...

Hows the oil consumption? Thinking of using vrp on my hyundai, engine is burning, not a lot but 1/2 quart every 300 miles

Thanks for the reminder. While my last filter was an "Antique" in my Terrain (from Memory 2017) last year (2023) when I bought the Parents' "Trade in" vehicle... Since I helped with some of the vehicle's upkeep/maintenance since new... I'd actually been the one to have swapped it last... Trouble for everyone/anyone is it can seem like the filter is/was changed more often then actual. My previous vehicle 2-3 years occasionally passed between changes. Thankfully even in the 6 year old filter it wasn't "too" bad... No warm blooded animals took residence... Picked up a fresh filter last week... Will be swapping it again soon.

def dont need a new washer. total waste

What gloves do you use?

Great job on this! DIY using better oil and filters than majority of shops 👍🏼

You almost missed the oil pan hahaha! Good job!

Very thorough analysis, without being overly long video. I definitely prefer the Wix standard filters above all else for cost/performance when doing 5k mile OCI. I hope you keep us updated!

The Supertech STxxxx filters are made by Champion Labs and are great filters. They usually run under 4 bucks. I prefer using Wix personally, the standard ones, for 5,000 mile intervals, but the Supertech are great on a budget and are better made than Fram's el cheapo variety. I don't bother with the MP filters since they are much higher priced and not beneficial for 5k OCI. Supertech oil is great esp since they have high mileage variety. Costco puts their oil on sale for around 30 bucks for two 5 quart jugs sometimes, which is hard to beat. You can get under 20 bucks for a full synthetic oil change.

3:45 since you've got a nice clean shot to the filter, once you've got it loosen, you can shove a screwdriver or an ice pick into the bottom of the filter to drain it straight down, before removing the it. Just don't do it until you've got it loosened a bit in case you can't and need to leave it on. Hard to do an oil change with 1 hand, that is for sure. Decent camera work but consider getting a stand or holder for your camera to make it easier.

So for Timeline Clarification... You have Two different vehicles running VRP (1 now on its second OCI, and 1 still on its first OCI, after an early Filter swap?) both doing well with performance and Oil Consumption or Wear Reduction?

I don't think I've ever been this excited about an oil before. :) I have a Toyota with the infamous oil burning 2AZ-FE 2.4L. I'm the second owner and was planning to do the Berryman's piston soak flush treatment then went with VRP instead and not risk it. Amazingly, On the first use I'm seeing results! Now using Vrp on 4 vehicles. A Scion, 2 Subaru's with the D-45 boxer and a Prius. Interestingly they all have had a little increase in mgp's too.

Got a 2014 GMC Terrain (2.4L Ecotec) that I like to think was/is run "Clean" using Dexos Full Synthetic Oil, often at 3-5K miles (well before the OLM of 7500miles/12 months) during its first 116K miles. Been running VRP for almost 1000 miles now. When I checked the Filter (Fram Ulta Synthetic, originally Snow White in color) @811 miles the filter was Pitch Black... It didn't look "unhealthy" (No abnormal or excessive sludge/debris, if pressing on a pleat I can see the white filter media appear until the oil soaks back in...) So as suggested I'm confident of Valvoline's stance that VRP is "balanced" in such a way that it won't overwhelm the filter. So far the Oil still looks clear/golden. Debating if I should swap in a fresh filter (and top off as needed to replace any lost "filter" oil) "just because" to give my first OCI of VRP its BEST chance to Clean up for its first 3000 or so miles. I've gotten a good baseline Oil Analysis before running VRP... So hopefully any of my results "Post-VRP" will just see more improvements...

Nice buy on that chevy, the previous owners must have changed the oil regularly.

I had bits of carbon in the oil catch can and when I went to pick them out, they just dissolved/absorbed into the paper towel. I'm thinking, in a way this is a good sign this oil does what it advertises.

There has been a lot of talk about V-R&P being so good at cleaning deposits that it will clog a filter in a very short period of time.... But according to Valvoline's FAQ, the Filter should be able to go for normal/regular change intervals without clogging. Personally, seems a bit wasteful to dump the Oil at only 1000 miles... But I suppose if the Oil ends up looking like "Black Death" then best safe then sorry. Since I have "drop in" Oil Filter cartridges in my vehicles I can inspect/replace filters quickly with out wasting more then the oil inside the filter media itself. On one vehicle I've only run 700 miles (2003 Saturn ION 192K miles, burns oil) and the filter and oil looked great. (Oil was a light golden color, and the K&N Filter with its distinctive Red Color, I could still the Red color... At 3K the filter would be Black, no hint of red...). So far it has been sounding/performing well and I haven't noticed it burning any. Just did the other vehicle on Sunday so will have to see how it does... But hoping if @1000 miles (I plan for 3000 miles) it will "show" that the Oil is getting dirty and a Filter Change (at least) is needed. Will probably do like my 700 mile filter and check at 1000. That filter is a FRAM Ultra that went in "Snow White"... So it should be very obvious if I start seeing Black Carbon/Metal etc... Highly Recommend V-R&P so far...

Glad you mentioned the Oil Filter still had its Gasket. I have Oil Filter Cartridges now on my current vehicles so I shouldn't have to worry about risking a leak by "double" (or triple...) gasketing my filters. Though now that I think about it there is a very small gasket on the filter that inserts into the housing... i suppose I should just confirm that it is there both before and after replacement. That might be a problem...

Try a plastic cup around it next time.