Відео

your thoughts on this lens vs the Light Lens Lab 50mm 1.2 "1966" lens? Other than the 1.2

is it still going?😩🤯

Hello Jeremy, great review of the Ultron! I've just picked one up myself, but I'm still tempted by the smaller Color-Skopar 21mm ƒ/3.5. I tend to stop down for group photos anyway. Have you tried the ƒ/3.5? Any thoughts on how it compares? Cheers!

B- leica, A- Voigtlander, is my guess

M240 HAS A MORE ORGANIC IMAGE COMPARED TRO THE M10

From this day forward I will always say "picture!" when taking a photo.

Thank you for not ruining this video with music. There is too much music in social media and I'm glad that some creators don't use it too much. BTW, the M9 can be used at ISO settings of up to 2000. If you have an older version of DxO Optics Pro, you can just use chrominance NR, and the high ISO images will look much nicer. DxO Photo Lab has Deep Prime NR, which delivers terrific results. DxO makes the best RAW editor, but keep in mind that even the best NR only removes noise, and cannot reveal detail that wasn't there.

11/10 as usual! did you remove remjet before developing or did you go full ecn-2 route? would be cool to see how you develop the vision film at home

I had the same problem with Fomapan400. All negatives were underexposed. I also suspected that it was my camera. But now I have found a solution for myself. Stand development. Adonal or Rodinal 1+100, 1 hour, minimum 5ml/film. 1 tilt at the start and 1 tilt after half an hour. Stop bath, fix. Done! No rotation. I have a Jobo CPE2 myself, but I only use it for color film.

Very good presentation Jeremy. I agree with you on the Leica M6 and Leica MP. Both in a class of their own. The MP has a more solid feel than the M6 but both produce classic images. Thank you..Mikel

14:38 THIS! is exactly the information that i have been searching for. thanks for doing these test. very useful stuff.

Hey Jeremy what do you use to scan your film it looks so efficient!

Awesome breakdown. What model of rotary tank rollers are you using to process with?

Really beautiful work as always! I really love the digital development side of these color photos you did with NLP. Would you be comfortable sharing a little about which NLP sim/preset you like as a starting point? These color images feel like a take on what you might expect from 24hr lab prints... back when that was a thing. Also aspects of what I associate with 90s Agfa color film.

Thanks for information. Does this lens fit the newer M11-P?

I love your contagious excitement for all things mechanical in terms of photography. One may sense it through the screen without even trying to..again pleased with vocabulary . hope for I to be ad-libed . enjoyed the attempt to convey to immediate audience the Dif between cheap and expensive goods . limited people do get it , to be exact 1% of the populous..

You're Beautiful Man , the Gods be with you and peace!

I love Kentmere 100 and 400.

Kentmere pan 100 is my go to b&w film. pushed one stop, developed in rodinal

Pull NEVER push!

What is the negative holder you are using? Also are you advancing by hand? That's very fast lol

try both films again without the rotary processor. I regularly shoot both films but I do a semi-stand at 1+25 Rodinal. I have had perfectly good images at 1600 and 3200 with kentmere 400 to the extent it directly competes with TMAX and Ilford Delta 3200

Great video! I perfectly described the experience of using mechanical cameras. It's the desire for that experience that pushes me towards a Leica M3.

Fomapan 400 at box speed was always underexposed, I’ve concluded that it’s probably around 250 iso, I now shoot it at 200 and develop in hc110 dilution h with good results

i've always liked kentmere 100/400 in d23 for a flat negative. it prints very well and i can manipulate it more than a contrasty negative.

Great video! I recently shot 4 rolls of kentmere, I always heard it was kind of a flat film but, I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

I want the wide version. I have the makina 67 80mm f2.8 now and at first I wasn’t sure but I love ❤️ I mean love the photos. Rangefinder focusing is new to me but damn the photos are some of the best. The lens is magical

thoughtful as always, Jeremy.

You'll return to Fomapan, or I'll unsubscribe your channel.

Started out with kentmere 100 in full daylight and loved it so when I tried out 400 and was treated to similar results that you've shown I was pretty let down. Great explanation, guess I'll have to give it another shot.

I've had those same issues with 120 foma 400 on a few rolls...I think it's an issue with one (or more) batches, probably... I shoot fomapan 100 the most, and now ortho 400 as a higher-speed option. And for really slow emulsions, I make my own (ISO 1-25) ^_^

Relative Exposure within a frame is blowing my mind. I need a "good" lightmeter but I've loved everything I've shot on Kentmere 400.

Been having very good results with Agfa APX400. It's very forgiving overall, and although it does come out a bit flat, I actually enjoy the potential of toning exactly what I am interested in after developing

Sad to know the love ending story but everything comes to an end.. glad you find a solution… looking forward to kentmere.. i used fomapan most of the times due to its low cost, but strictly with a 100 speed films.. since the 400 has not been consistent throughout when shot at 400.. that is not something new.. however, hp5 is my go to for high speed films.. though i prefer kentmere 400 when available

Amazing video, well done man.

If you ever knew an old newspaper photographers equipment, it looks like he was pounding nails with, but they always work well.

what was that monster dev tank at @4:41 please?

It's fun bc what's now called Kentmere was sold as Ilford pan 100 and pan 400 for years in a shop in Paris, kinda weird that's since its rebrand, lots of people are talking about it But anyway, it's a very cool film to play with.

I don’t know if I’d describe Foma 400 and Kentmere 400 a so fundamentally different. Or at least not as the polar opposite you describe. I get your point but to me the differences are more like two sides of the same coin: The cheapest B&W film they each could make. Kind of low contrast. But you’re right in that Kentmere is clean and polished and Foma is rough and gritty. To me the biggest jump in look in the same speed class is probably going from something super clean like TMax to gritty and contrasty like Street Pan.

Please try Kodak double-x (like this if you also want to see an analysis of this film)

I have been shooting exclusively with Fomapan 400 for years and have faced the same issues you've mentioned. I’ve been looking for a comparison blog to explore alternatives, and I have been considering Kentmere as well. After watching this, I feel it’s a sign to make the switch and set Fomapan aside for now.

Hey Jeremy, it would be really nice if you could do a video on how you meter for B&W negative film with your Leica for "normal pictures," nothing too flat or contrasty. Until now, I haven't found the sweet spot. I try to meter for mid-shadows and let the dynamic range of the film do the trick. For color negative, this always worked pretty good, in my opinion. I like the pastel colors. With my B&W shots, I'm still not happy after my first 60 rolls of Foma. One more question: If you had to use a lab. What would you tell the lab how to develop the film? Just push a stop?

This Video is costing foma so much money. Switched to foma 400 some months ago. Had similar issues. Since I don't devolop myself, I thought it's the lab or somethings wrong with my camera. Since then I simply overexpose the shit out of it. Might also Order now some kentmere for myself...

This was incredibly informative, honestly extremely helpful! I would love to see your exposure tests conparing stocks such as HP5 like many others have mention but also slower films like ilford FP4 and Delta 100.

So good having a analog channel where you get real deep knowledge. Thank you

Cool concept for a video. I’m thinking of next year doing a project where at least 90% of the time I use Kodak Vision 3 250D, so I really get to know its strengths and weaknesses. I keep going back and forth between this and that and it feels like I’m not learning as much as I could.

suuuuper informative. always love your content. would also love to know how this held up when being pushed in development!

Have you considered altering dev depending on the exposure latitude you need? I know it would be hard for a full roll of film but in sheet film, if you places to detailed shadows at zone 3 and detailed highlights at zone 8 and thus 5 stop range then dev at N. If you have a scene that requires less (very contrasty) or more (very flat) then altering dev by N+1 or N-1 (20% more or less time) to accomplish your vision. Just a thought

You grew up in the Caribbean, correct?

Such and excellent video, I thought as if this channel doesn't have 1000 times more subscribers and then saw the last comment with the same sentiment!