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@@georgealvarez9823 call Rheem technical support. They are very good. Also try cycling your power to the unit / check the breakers or fuses to make sure they haven’t tripped or blown.

@@eythanchoo2002 thank you!! For the small crosses I just used a steady hand and a very small applicator. For this I used a fine oiler.

@@CarlyWoolery you would either need to replace the clips or you’d have to glue it down. The correct way is to replace the pieces that are broken but I’d think gluing it would be okay.

@@CarlyWoolery Gluing the windshield trim pieces back in place can be a temporary solution, but it’s not ideal for long-term durability. The trim is primarily aesthetic, but it also helps reduce wind noise and prevent debris from entering gaps. Here are some considerations: If You Want to Glue It: 1. Choose the Right Adhesive: Use a high-strength automotive adhesive or urethane specifically designed for exterior use. Avoid general-purpose glues that may fail with temperature changes or weather exposure. 2. Clean the Area: Thoroughly clean both the trim and the mounting surface with isopropyl alcohol to remove dirt, grease, and old adhesive. 3. Clamp It Down: Use clamps, masking tape, or another method to hold the trim securely in place while the adhesive cures. Better Long-Term Solution: • Replace the Clips: Even though they broke, the clips are designed to hold the trim securely and allow for proper expansion and contraction. New clips are usually inexpensive and easy to install. Check online or at a Ford dealer for the right part number. Why Clips Are Better: • Clips ensure the trim stays firmly attached while allowing some flexibility for temperature changes and vibrations. Glue might harden over time, crack, or loosen. If it’s a quick fix, glue will work for now, but for peace of mind, replacing the clips is the better choice.

@@marcu9111 if it didn’t turn on at 220v there is either a defect in the motor, the wiring isn’t correct, there isn’t 220v there. If you continue to experience issues I’d recommend having an electrician come out to complete the install.

@ maybe I’m not doing it right. But I follow your video instructions and no results

I am not able to fix what you’re experiencing because I am not there to see what the issue is. If you are using the same motor/pump and your wiring is correct and there is not issue with the power or the pump then it should be working. This video has been viewed over 25,000 times and used many times with great success. I have another video check that wa out on what to do.

I appreciate your response. Thank you so much. I’ll look into it 🤓🙌

@@etwproductions it wasn’t. But I am sure that it would work from them. I ordered it off the internet and it was so long ago I don’t remember where I got it. But I will say to get the deep connectors for it. The low profile connections work but I’ve had them leak and had to redo them. The other thing is hold the pipe in place a lot longer with the flexible before releasing it. I usually will hold it in place for 2 to 3 minutes and then be sure not to pull or turn it to test it until it is fully cured. I only use it when I need the flexibility it offers now because it is a little finicky but totally works. I have parts that are flexible that at 5 years+ now. Good luck!

@ thank you for the insight. You saved me a lot of time!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Much appreciated.

I will have some better content up in January 2025 for watch stuff as I am moving my workshop/studio and won’t be back up until then but should be putting out new videos and tutorials after.

@@brandonhorstman1774 not sure what you’re asking - sorry. Are you saying the fuel isn’t flowing through to the pump?

@ so my fuel line got eaten up causing a leak and I fixed that and changed my primer pump because it was leaking I primed over 1k times atleast I see it flowing thru return and where filter is also the little filter by primer is new and I got 6 gallons of diesel in the tank I keep hearing a knock and I know it’s a misfire I can’t get to bleed correct in w123 is the first thing to do turn crank to 10btdc then prime?

@@hectoraceves1494 thank you!!

Thank you for your comment and the feedback! Very much appreciated!!

People do custom dials however they are usually quite expensive. At 20 to 30 hours the cost would be $500 to $750 to make a dial if they were to charge just $25 an hour just for time.

@@jadugar3518 when possible I will use a machine. Either laser etching or with my vertical mill. I do use a graver to remove small imperfections when necessary as well. There is a lot of hand refining once I machine something until it is finished (sometimes several hours of work) and then I hand paint or enamel each dial. I also have two metal lathes; however I haven’t used these as of yet on dials. I would imagine I would likely use this only to reduce the dial size should I find that necessary.

@@SB-he1cn thanks. I appreciate it. I am not full time right now and am on a pause until December 15th traveling and working on other projects. I will swing around to you after I get back.

@@eisenhorngaunt great to hear and wonderful that you repurposed a tool to get it done. I love hearing about innovative ways and tricks and tips. Thanks for sharing!!!

Thanks for your inquiry. I wouldn’t want to mod an existing dial. It is too easy to spoil a dial especially when you don’t know how or what it is made from and what kind of durability the finishing has. I appreciate your comment and question though. Thanks!

I got mine at The Home Depot. But I would guess any plumbing supply store or hardware store should have what you need.

What is the exact size of your union fitting that goes into the pool pump? 1 1/2"

@@jefsiv not likely. It could cause a lot of damage to the watch dial due to the heat. The finish, if anything but metal only would burn and anything held on with glue or shellac would fall apart. Thanks for the question and for watching the channel. Much appreciated.

@@jefsiv three options that could work though would be pad printing to add to a dial, water slide laser printed additions, and adhesive metal or other material stickers. I would imagine someone talented enough could also hand paint the dial.

It is a Raycus 50W fiber laser. I don’t have a link to it as I imported it myself which I don’t recommend doing unless you have extensive experience working with complex imports (FDA inspection required and they reject a good handful). As far as the blanks go you just need to good 50mm brass round disc .7mm to get what I am using. .5mm to .7mm all work but if you want to use .7mm you will need to use a movment with a higher hand height installed. For instance I use HH5 on an ETA with my custom dials.

Raycus 50W fiber laser. Make sure whatever you purchase supports LightBurn.

​@@DangerDIYamazing

@@patrickt840 I am guessing this is a 3 season pump. I have had freezes nearly every year that has damaged the pipes causing the pump to run dry or freeze itself. So far I haven’t had to replace the pump due to motor failure and the longest I’ve run it is 2 years before one of the other contributing factors have led to replacement. This is one reason why I stopped buying $1200 to $2000 pumps. It has never been the motor failing that is causing me to replace my pump. Usually it is climate (freezes) or another pipe bursts causing my pump to run dry which will damage the plastic housing and the windings/motor.

I plan on continuing with this same brand until it is no longer available for purchase. I am very satisfied with the performance and value it provides.

@@kathyortiz8774 appreciate the feedback Joe. I will try to be better. I am am not very good at holding the camera while I work. Sorry it wasn’t helpful.

You are welcome. Thank you for the comment letting me know!!

@@inaseeb_singh_ thank you. Very much appreciate your kind comment!!

My oldest kids cat.

@@LuisMorales-sc7rr no. You should be able to glue in the trim with a rubber cement type glue like shoogoo or E6000 glue. But make sure you put enough glue at the tops and the bottom to secure it so the wind doesn’t remove the trim for you at 80mph.

@@LuisMorales-sc7rr if you want to replace the brackets I am not sure of the procedure as I haven’t had the windshield out on this car. Sorry. But the windshield should be reuseable. I cannot imagine it needs to be replaced. Probably just the seal and the brackets.

@DangerDIY awesome, thanks for taking time to reply. Hope you have a wonderful weekend.

@LuisMorales-sc7rr you too!

Only the middle clips are broken on mine, so I’m thinking about just using E6000 glue as you mentioned. Does that make it harder to remove later tho? Also great video! Very informative for a newbie to car stuff like me

@@GoodEatsGuy I can make watches with or without date complications. I use the STP1-21 top grade movement made by STP in Switzerland or the ETA 2824-2 if preferred.

Yes. They came with the exchanged when I purchased it.

@@GoodEatsGuy thank you.

@@fernir.1 thank you. I’ll take a look and see if I can find a suitable transparent green I can use on the dial. Appreciate the comment!!

Thank you. I agree. Just didn’t think to do that at the time.

Thank you. Much appreciated !!

@@ArthLud thank you for the note. I love working on watches and the dials and appreciate you giving the time to look at the work.

@@ArthLud thank you! 🙏❤️

@@TheJcrandazzo that is correct. I direct wired but there is no reason why splicing the wires shouldn’t work. The amperage is lower at the higher voltage so the wires should be sufficient. Obviously switch to 240V on the selector before energizing the circuit. 👍

Thank you!! ❤️🙏

@@Fred_Klingon thank you. 🙏❤️

@@deeday763 that is the bonding wire for your pump to your pool. I don’t have any wires from my pool making it that far (at least that I could find) so my pump isn’t bonded to my pool. But most of the time you will have a copper wire that is bonded to your pool frame and ground and this wire would be used to bond this equipment to that as well.