Відео

when i do a water test i most often hold it and soak the area in question from side to side ( not soaking anything above ground) while the homeowner is inside basement drinking a bottle of gin and watching for 1st sign of water. Yes run the water against B wall, don't soak anything above grade until later. Since i cannot stay on all estimates---water tests for 2 ish hours, i usually get the water test going and stay fot 35 - 45 minutes and most of those times (not all) we get the result within 5 -20 minutes.... water begins to enter basement. I have stayed for 2 - 3 hours on some because homeowners leaked in multiple areas but most will know within 35-45 minutes, unless they have concrete right against the house--wall where they leaked, then it might take a lil longer - IF NO water ever enters then their problem is elsewhere, usually 1+ openings above ground (which i'm looking for while running water against B wall below ground), above grade openings include cracked, deteriorated mortar joints, bricks, siding, ALL windows including new windows, around + under doors, where service lines enter house, and per chimney could again be cracked deteriorated M joints, bricks, flashing, crown n so on. Have had some homeowners leak due to openings in-around milk chute and doorbell

@@SheenaRea 😆 🤣

MannnnnYy 😂

@@kah5324 never, not once in 47 years

@@markanderson8583got it. Thank you sir

@SheenaRea not always but very often Sheena

they had home inspection, inspector DID call out the 1st crack in video and apparently told buyers about 'upper' stains on B wall---chimney above chute door, did not say anything about 2nd crack that was patched, did not say they may need exterior waterproofing of chimney walls (and 2nd crack), nothing said about rod hole, nothing said about the concrete 'cove along perimeter near chimney, nothing said about caulk along perimeter of driveway--house

@SheenaRea looolll right so says another misinformed non expert smh

you have leaky rod holes or B windows or a crack in wall or efflorescence... ? If you like you could send me photos of problem(s) -- i can't always help every homeowner but have helped many, don't want anything lolol no

umm LOL help us with this one if ya plzz

for this leaky basement we can saw cut two strips of concrete in front of the B window and side door, dig down about 1 foot, waterproof those openings n backfill that lil bit.... all other leaks are minor tuckpointing, caulking etc needs which i won't do, homeowner or friend will. Now folks, think if there was drywall--paneling against B walls in these leaky areas... you would pretty much only see water pooling on the floor as the drywall would hide where the incoming water is actually coming from, coming in... and MANY get talked into an INT drainage system and sump pump $$$$$....... the same thing happens when homeowners ONLY problem are some deteriorated leaky rod holes behind drywall - drywall won't get wet, you'll just see water on floor

@@manderson5397 thank you for educating us! I know your way is best!!!

@@DollysParadise Ty D P!

maNNNNNyyyy 😉

@sweetybean1 Double T man !

thank you Sheena, hope all is well

1 + 1/2 after the hydraulic cement

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 yeah sure O-tay Spanky - 47 years been doing this and onlt this... add more decades from Mr Capizzo who we learned trade from = no problems, hmmmm - but yeah all others commenting have better ideas LOL sureSKI

we've been just fine without the toys for 47 years

it goes right through the gravel, done this for 47 years, no problem. Whether it's sand, gravel, clay water will go down = gravity so, we don't want it against B wall saturating the clay soil = expanding-pushing against the B wall = not good.

i better buy a wig

Yes 😉

MannnnnnyyyYYYYY

🤣🤣 🌙🌙

I go bluskin then waterproof Delta membrane over that to protect it on backfill

@Burn269 pretty much concur but no other signs of movement inside or outside porch.... not yet, Real nice retired couple here. ty for commen.