Відео

I had similar issues, it turned out my fuel pump bracket had pin holes in the steel tube so gas wouldn't get the right amount of pressure.

@joetrueblood7663 Just curious how you figured that out? I assume you did a fuel pressure check, but how did you pinpoint the pin holes?

I recently, (couple weeks back) bought a pair of 6 ton hydraulic crimpers and used them for the first time to terminate a set of battery cables for my wife's Camero. I was very impressed with how precise and fast it worked. I agree, was well worth the purchase.

Just curious, did the study say how many ohms difference in the two types of termination? Only reason I ask, is the value negligible or significant. Also, what is the resistance between the battery terminal and the clamp itself? That will always vary, every time its connected to the battery terminal. If that resistance exceeds the resistance of the lug termination, does it necessarily matter? I'm entirely open to evidence that would change how I terminate cables. I can say that one of the reasons I prefer a crimp is it provides a mechanical connection. I've witnessed soldered connections that separate from the lug. Hence the reason I prefer a crimped connection. I supposed a person could crimp then solder, but I would not eliminate the mechanical bond.

non more discernable than the Jeep itself. One must remember, Jeeps are less aerodynamic than a cow.

besides, I'm usually jamming out to some kind of hard rock from the 70's to present on the 7 speaker system.

I just looked up a 2024 Toyota Tundra TRD Pro on the Toyota website. Base built TRD Pro is $73,980. You said it was a steal at only $15K over MSRP. That would make it $88,980. I paid $83,077.83 to drive my 392 Wrangler off the lot. There's no way I could have had a 392 Wrangler built for me by an aftermarket shop like America's Most Wanted for that amount. There's absolutely no way it would come with a factory warranty either. So... I guess I feel like I did alright. The warranty issues were covered 100%, and I was extremely well cared for by the dealership and by Jeep. I have zero complaints after everything was all said and done. I drive the 392 daily and would not have it any other way. I love my Jeep!

The i-FORCE MAX V6 is 437 horsepower with 583 lb.-ft. of torque with twin turbos. I'm 470 horsepower and 470 lb.-ft. torque naturally aspirated. I'll run cooler and have much less to worry about concerning induction and exhaust. If I crammed a ProCharger for 6.4L Hemi under the hood I'd be at 670+ horsepower and 695+ lb.-ft. of torque.

Sounds like a conundrum wrapped in an enigma.

Yeah got any ideas?!

​@@Killthebatsman I'm not a huge Toyota expert, but I'd start with how clean the battery terminals are. How your main cables terminate, is the ground good to the engine and the chassis. Does the main power supply wire have something like a fusible link that's blown. Check all fuses and relays. Get a test light or a logic probe and see what's hot and what's not. In general check the condition of wiring harnesses. Look for damage, burned wires, shorts, etc... Check power at the key switch, see if there is battery power coming into it, and back track to find the fault if there isn't. Basically, systematically eliminate known good wiring from potential bad wiring. It's not necessarily fun or easy, it's certainly time consuming. Keep track of the things you've proven to be in good condition and keep chasing until you find the issue. Start at the battery and work your way out from there. Take your time, try not to become frustrated, take plenty of notes. Once you find potential issues, repair as required and continue on. If you're in over your head, admit it and take it to a qualified mechanic.

That would be correct. So, I identified a work around. I've learned since, that this is a common and repeatable failure. Because none of them indicated an actual solution to the original problem, many other people chose the same solution. At the end of the day, it worked and that's all that mattered to us.

Must be a worn out key switch

Yes, with a lift, play from worn parts can be amplified. Small movements are magnified over a further distance.

That cable started out life as a Midland - MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable with NMO Connector amzn.to/3Wl1RTW Then I chopped the NMO mount end off and terminated it with RFIOTASY Pack of 5 UHF PL-259 PL259 Male-Plug Crimp Coax Connector Adapter RF Connector for RG58/U LMR195 Coax Cable Compatible with Ham Radio (UHF Male Crimp RG58) amzn.to/3QuHvDR Using these crimpers Signstek Coax RF Connector Crimping Tool for RG-58, 59, 62, 8x, 141, 142, LMR195, 200, 240 amzn.to/4a6atB3 And soldered the center conductor with Merece Soldering Station, 65W Digital Soldering Iron Kit 176℉-896℉ Adjustable Temperature (C/F), Standby & Sleep, Temperature Lock, 5 Solder Tips, Tip Cleaner, Solder Wire, Sucker - Fast Heating Up amzn.to/4dnrUQi And sealed it with Wirefy Heat Shrink Tubing Kit - 3:1 Ratio Adhesive Lined, a resistant Shrink Wrap - Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing - Black - 180 PCS amzn.to/44uyfW7 This is the NMO mount I used to attach the antenna on the top and the PL-259 connector on the bottom 1 Thick NMO Mount to Short Type 1" SO-239 Adapter PBH Packing amzn.to/3wilAce Hope that helps.

@ThunderBear4WD damn, dude. Thanks. The cables, how they come, suck ass. I've had 3 snap off at the ghost

This is the wire we used. 4 Gauge Wire (25ft Each - Red/Black) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable, 20PCS Lugs Terminal Connectors,20PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing amzn.to/3wmHzyL Hope that helps.

The installation instructions specifically stated to not use it. The thickness of the cast cover plus the factory gasket are too thick for the provided hardware. That and I think that if yah smack the cast cover on a rock, a person would want it as close contact to the differential housing as possible. Better load transfer, less likely to slip around. I think the gasket could allow for that.

@@ThunderBear4WD Mine came with no instructions, glad I asked.

@@mgkeleher definitely use the Reinzosil gasket maker and new bolts that comes with the diff cover. We drove from Washington to Utah the next day. Zero issues, it's been sealed perfectly since installation.

Are the Front and Rear identical covers or two different parts numbers?

You're welcome. I hope you enjoyed the video.

Thanks for coming over to take a look. The day two video has more commentary.

He wears Wrangler Riggs Workwear jeans. :)

🤔

We did, unfortunately he had to sit down for a minute. We are going to try to be in a better spot on day 2. :)

Thank You! The weather already looks to be more cooperative today.

Thank You

Because it's you, sure. 😉