Відео

Hey how are the headphones now? Are the at the same quality as originally

everything is wired right now . have the screen powering up and was able to flash its firmware but cant get the mainboard .. i got the .bin file from thiniverse but its not doing anything when i boot up on it

Do you have a link to premade jst splitters? I do not have all those tools to create one.

What does it mean when the touch screen is not working but I get to the home screen?

Great video . any chance you'd like to share your your files ??? really struggling to get this going !!!!

Great, clear well done video. Just done exactly this on MK1 Audi S3 (same switch just housed differently) And it worked a treat 👌

If you are still able to print these could I please buy some from you? Thanks

my headphones just broke 1 week later this video was posted, i'm glad to see that it can be repaired, thank you!

Hi AMP, the correct P/N should be BA00AS, not BA08CC. It will work, but it isn't correct. You can clearly see even in your video, that the two voltage reference resistors just next to the stabilisator are present even on your PCB.

Stock motherboard is garbage

Any chance you have the firmware and the DWIN files to match? Also quick tip you can rotate the connectors on the board so you don’t have to swap the bltouch wires around for the Zstop

What's the size of the speakers? Need to buy new ones and don't know the size.

Where. And how much did the parts cost?

I just did this upgrade. Everything is working well except it seems that I have an issue where the z step will step up and not step down. Did you have to increase the current on the z axis for the stepper motors?

Excuse me, do you know how to synchronize the control with the central box?

found your aproach very usefull for a toyota wiper linkage! thanks!

Hi Mate any chance you can attach a link to the firmware.BIN file for the 4.2.7 Board please I have the firmware for the screen all done and working I have tried to build the firmware in platformio but I keep getting errors starting to become very frustrating. I have tried the firmware from the link to thingiverse it doesnt work either. I have made sure my SD Card works to upload the firmware formatted to fat 32 and 4039 as it uploads the firmware to the screen fine. if you could share a link to the *.bin file that would be great Cheers

Your vidoe helped me in the first 40 seconds I hadn't checked to see if the light stays on inside! Mine didn't? I had repaced the fuse and still not my double gang socket for soem reason the right side burnt out! Plugged it into the left and hey presto! Was about to strip the machine apart! 😅

So I followed this completely and am having a couple issues. The screen firmware went through but my screen just stays showing the boot logo of marlin. My bl touch probe extends twice and stays red. Any help on what I may be missing would be great. I also noticed the board isn’t taking the new firmware.

Hi, did this permanently fix this issue? Did the board blow up again after you fixed it? Thanks

Great video! I’ll be honest I was hoping to see the rotating cluster dimmer dial worked on as well. I’ve had three switches over the years and dials on all three acted differently. Only worked “okay” whereas the others either barely made a change, or would start bright, get slightly dimmer, then get bright again

This video is awesome! I was looking at my 5 Plus yesterday and i was wondering why it's using a different motherboard and firmware when it's basically same hardware setup as Ender3++ I currently have an highly modified and not anymore Ender3 Pro and an Ender3 V2, i run on both Mriscoc firmware which i just love what it does to your machine. It gives you unbelievable many more options and settings... So now i was looking at my Ender5 plus and i wanted the same thing but i wanted to make sure i can run 4.2.7 motherboard on it. So you showed me that YES it works great 👍 But Mriscoc works only with 24 bit color screen that Ender3 V2 has and to be honest im not a big fan of touch screen either so i think this is a great option for this upgrade. Thank you very much for this great video 😎👍

Would it be possible to drill a small hole in the housing, on the bearing centreline, through which you could add a drop of oil ?

hey bud what is the max depth of the rear speaker hole ?

Huge thank you🎉😊

Hang on wheres the steps on how you put these files into the printer?

I have a massive issue with the 10 pin cable. Are you not able to just use the existing cable? I understand the clip on it is backwards but could you not cut a small square in the plastic and make it connect the original way round?

Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.

Hi, I have HW-K950 as well, recently my right satellite and subwoofer unable to link to main soundbar, is it repairable?

4:14 Which button?

I also have a ender 5+, glad i found this. I also had the cr touch issue with the wires being crossed. But I have 2 additional fans it looks like? Black and red wires one running to the case fan and the other is a fan by the extruder. But i still have the yellow/blue wire fan. Any chance you can shed some light on how to deal with this? Can i make a 2 to 1 connection for a fan port? Edit: i missed you plugged it into the board power bar thing But which fan is stripped and put into the board by the power connections? Does it make sense to put the case fan into the power block and the extra one connected to the print head into the board? Editx2: you do mention its the fan for the hot end. So you dont want that variable? There is an extra spot on the board that can either be the case fan or that fan.

Excellent Video!, mine have broken, but unfortunately dont have a 3d printer are the little parts available to buy? Thanks.

Great vid, albeit niche to us Beko tumble dryer owners! Has your dryer ever stop randomly (can be 2 seconds or 20 minutes into the cycle - is totally random)? I have the same Beko DCU8230 and it has had this random stoppage behaviour since new many years ago. Googling about seems to suggest that it is a PCB issue. Just wondering if you have any insight or similar experience.

I'm going mad - I am trying to use this software for the first time in years in windows, updated everything, device shows in device manager as a com port, but no com ports (even my other devices) show in the eb software. Been trying to run as admin but no dice.

The same speaker just died in my system, without this video I would not probably get anywhere, so this video is gold for me now when trying to repair. But I must say that Samsung should get a big middle finger up for the freaking glue stuff. I have to get some more isoprop. tomorrow so I can get the last 2 parts open and get to the electronic components. I'm not great with electronic so I may just order double of everything you mention here, and call on some friends I know is skilled repairing electric stuff :)

I fucking hated this piece of shit printer that ALWAYS had some bullshit going wrong with it. I don't regret replacing it with a CR-10. These printable upgrades sure sound nice. Would be great if i could have actually printed anything with the damn thing after a year.

Thank you. Watching your video has saved me a lot of money and time. I bought a new motor for 15quid and it was fixed. Happy days. Thank you :))))

Thank You. It works 100% Testing on my honda jazz and now the radio tuned good.

Thanks for this! I was looking for a video on how the Drayton MA1 works, but this gives me enough info for what I need. I am finding that the actuator moves as expected when it is removed from the valve, but for some reason does not seem to be strong enough to turn the valve when attached. It could be the valve has become too stiff or the motor is no longer strong enough who knows. I have manually set the valve in the hot water only position, which should be good until winter comes again

Why is the signal wires come in pairs?

Hey I know this is unrelated but after a battery change in my 2006 jazz the speakers started to sound bad. Lower frequencies sound muffled and the sound quality is noticably worse. I heard changing the gains could help but I have know idea how to do that in the jazz and couldn't find anything about it. If you could help or have any tips I would appreciate it a lot!

didn't honda fits come with central locking?

Always good to see more Jazz videos 👍

💥 *PromoSM*

Will you also do the front speaker brakets?

This is incredible! Struggling to get everything working on my 8bit board and wanted the silent drivers so bad! Just ordered the v4.2.7 and I can’t wait to follow your tutorial and get it up and running! Thank you so very much for this video!! God bless and warm regards from sunny South Africa 🇿🇦

mine has a broken circuit..can i get new charging circuit?

Amazing video. Thank you so much for explaining. One question: I accidentally flashed the firmware for the ender 3 instead of the ender 5 pro somehow. Is there a faster way to re-flash the firmware for the Ender 5 Pro?

worked few years, now ko