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All good info! 👍

WB upper link high in the rear?

Thank you for this video

Buuut ideally you try to get...what? Universal joint should be parraler to another universal joint, to avoid resonanse.

Any tutorials on how to paint RC bodies

Very good demonstration

Are those highlighting sounds when you are showing the pictures come from gta vice city main memu? When scrolling thru main memu it also gives that sound in vice city

There will be no need for a thermostat then hey bro

Thank you my friend

I was under the impression that if one u joint was bent you wanted another bend to counteract the oscillating speeds of the joints? Wouldnt "pointing it at the t case output" keep the joint straight which would produce vibration????

Maybe not be sucking on your tongue and sniffing snot when your filming.

I want to make a tool like that for experimenting with setups.. 3D printed maybe... 🤔

Man watching an LJ Buggy on 42" Reds struggle REALLY makes me wanna wheel here!!

@14:35 I believe that’s actually idea for the front axle. You want to keep your steering straight.

Why isn't the LSD limiting Is it worn out?

But what if I want to put the lower link of the rear suspension parallel to the ground, and achieve 90-95% anti-squat? Do I need to mount the upper link on the rear axle higher, and make the front mount on the frame lower than the horizon?

Any way you could illustrate a top down view of how the four links lengths and angles all react?? Sounds hard to do but would be cool!!

With rock crawlers do you have to use a double U-joint on the transfer case? On street cars the idea behind parallel links is to keep the transfer case and pinion parallel, even if the pinion isn’t pointing at the transfer case because the second u-joint removes the vibration of the first. So it seems like the idea is to keep that u-joint angle from happening in the first place. But it would only work for the differential’s pinion and the u-joint at the transfer case is still working hard and the u joint at the pinion wouldn’t be able to cancel out the vibrations unless there’s like another u-joint somewhere😂

Also having equal length links means you could have 1 replacement part that could work in either location

Can to much droop be bad or cause problems?

I’m totally mocking up my numbers and doing it on paper. Pinion angle yes stability and climbs, what’s best angle

On a RC crawler that is trying to do max steeps and sidehills in a more controlled lighter setting than 1:1 where speed and weight cause a lot of stress. Rear links a lower link parallel to the ground is ok right…with upper parallel and higher with max diff in heights. When lengths were and same and if mounted to similar location will maximize the pinion being lined up?

Awesome video. Do you have recommendations on doing reverse triangulated 4 link? Upper arms going to rear bumper.

The lengths are visual lengths from the side right? Not the physical length end to end.

Great video ! Thanks

The original CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) in action!. Great demonstration to help visualize the movements and angles that result from different configurations. However, it would be kind to your viewers to remind them that if you design the links so that the diff pinion shaft is always pointing towards the transfer case, you need to use a double universal joint at the transfer case end of your driveshaft. If you have a simple single universal joint at each end, the transfer case end UJ will be swinging through a wide range of angles while the diff end UJ stays fairly straight: this will cause rotational speed oscillations in the driveshaft that will not be offset by the second UJ, leading to vibration and shortened service life of the diff components.

holy shit. you ever weigh a body before and after all this? my 1/10th scale buggy body weighs 30 grams (painted). this seems like you would be adding at least 100 grams to the body. not only are you adding weight but its extra weight in the worst possible area.

simple math this. it's all about arcs and positions that effect it, you can have a shorter top arm, but you must separate the povit point on the axle more. so short arm, long distance between pivot points, long arm, close pivot points. Also it's obvious that the higher the top arm chassis fix point is the more through the arc it is so will point the diff nose down at full droop. you don't want that in any scenario as it over extends the capability of the UJ's or CV joints.

I use to run that Hot Car back in the early 1980's - everyone had a nickname, and mine was Sugarfoot for some reason (Sarge gave that to me). I ran both that Door Machine and Hot Car thousands of times, although it traveled in the reverse direction back then (the Quencher was on the South end of the wharf - apparently got moved to North end at some point). I cannot believe he stood there and took that video - would have been extremely hot from that coke giving off heat like that. I worked in that Coke Plant from 1978-1984 - have lots of fond memories of the people who worked there back then.

Thanks for the explanation, I’m going to build my 4 link now.. I have little experience in fab, but have some buddies.

Heck ya.. awesome. Can you do the same on the back view or pinion view explaining with shocks and articulation?

Just found this. Cool….What is normally in the space, other than oil?

In the GT8 world, a lot of racers run zero droop. It makes the cars corner flat and fast, but if your wheel drops down, you'll lose your grip and spin.

The Pinion angle is not the only thing to consider. For most the Pinion angle pretty irrelevant because a not rockcrawler vehicle will be 98% on ride high, probably more. The interesting part is, how smooth one goes over obstacles! And also dive when braking.

How do I get to these trails

Thanks for all information. Learned a lot. Like the idea of you modeling

This was awesome

Hey, man. Love your video. I also fish The Ohio River, and recently had a musky encounter. I think it may have been relatively close to where you caught your fish and would love to talk about it.

I have a jeep JK. In the front the lower control arm mounts hang down a lot. What would happen if I were to move them up about 2” inches and leave the upper mounts put? (It’s my daily by the way).

Thanks, great simple explanation with an excellent visual aid. This is a big help on grasping the basics.

I hate when ppl say other folks don't belong on the trail stop being a bitch and help them if you're in such a hurry

Where did you get the aluminum piece for the differential I can’t did it anywhere

Thank you very much for this video, it is super explained and it is understood like no other, could you make one like it on the location of the cooilovers?

Would a thin coat and then a heavier coat of flex seal clear by itself be enough to keep dirt from getting underneath and ruining my paintjob?

Hello, I want to install a 43 link in a Trailer I going to use for offroading, Because there is no DIFF just a n open axle, is it still need ed the 25 % tire dimension separation between lowe and upper ControlArms? I cant get a 7° on the lower CA, is it an issue?

Designing an rc crawler and this helps me more than rcc tutorials

1 trip to winrock and my new trackbar was toast within a week.

I run my rear measured eye to eye square not diagonal 31" lowers and upper wishbone. Upper and lower are actually lot longer than 31" because triangulated. I have around 31" running length driveshaft on sye.

This was fun

I tried the gorilla glue version of flex seal and the solvents ate the paint I dont want to spray on my new paint job now.