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I bought a box from McMaster Carr, but you might be able to get a single from Ace Hardware.

Sorry, I wouldn't know.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

@@BriansGarageUSA gotcha, thank you Sir.

Is that bank one sensor two?

@@reyc3709 There is just one bank since its an L4, but the video shows bank 1 sensor 2 replacement. It turned out to be Sensor 1 (A/F) in the exhaust manifold.

Thanks Brother!

In the video you will see me insert a hose into the throttle body. I don't remember if it was a piece of 3/8" or 5/16" fuel line, but something around that size will work.

Donna, this really only works on old school cars. Those with tube and fin design. To flush you need to disconnect the evaporator at both ends, then blow the flush through it. Same thing for the condenser. Follow with compressed air. Do not try to flush a drier, accumulator or hose with a muffler.

Brackets prevent twist caused by the floor pan and seat tracks being out of plane.

@@BriansGarageUSA I did order them was just asking thanks for the reply was thinking the factory doesn’t use them

@@bobdimartino6738 Bob, these are copies of the original equipment brackets. GM made a bench seat floor pan and then added brackets as needed.

It did a great job of taking the edge off the noise, vibration and harmonics. Obviously, it won't quiet a loud exhaust, but it does take the edge off....

Sorry, I must have gotten the wrong number. I found the correct numbers and in black! Apparently still available. R Door Weatherstrip 72315-SVA-A01ZA (black trim) L Door Weatherstrip 72355-SVA-A01ZA (black trim) www.hondaautopartswarehouse.com/oem-parts/honda-opening-trim-72355svaa01za

2 door only

Yes, low hump with high hump carpet. This provided a space to route everything, but you could probably use low hump carpet and it would simply have some lumps from the cable and wires. I cut a piece of sofa cushion to take up the extra room and make it appear normal.

It is a Chevelle part cut and spliced to the Cutlass dash. I bought it from Classic Parts, p/n PP-4581.

Yes, I do plan to sell it. It's turnkey and ready to go. Has the rare 4.10 and Eaton locker. I overhauled it about 14000 miles ago. All new bearings and seals (no china garbage), new drums, shoes, hardware and lines. I added ceramic bar magnets to catch any wear material and have run 75w90 synthetic. Only bad thing is the ring gear makes some noise at highway speeds and that drove me crazy because I'm really picky. You could bolt it in over a weekend and be driving to work on Monday.

​@@BriansGarageUSA I would be very interested in purchasing it off of you when the time comes for you to sell it

@@matthewlavan1226 It is now on Craigs and FB for Tulsa area.

Absolutely you may use my video on your page. Repops makes an honest product that fits well, is straight and looks great. Not only that, but you have product for obscure cars like my '70 Caprice Sports Coupe and the weatherstrip fits and looks so nice on that car (she's a pretty one!). Thanks for what you do and for keeping it made in USA! Is there anything I need to do on my end to allow you to use it? I don't much about this sort of thing.

The IACV gasket. It's a molded rubber piece. I ended up buying a NOS Isuzu valve on eBay (Isuzu had a van based on the Odyssey). Been problem free since. The valve I replaced appeared to be an aftermarket Standard Motor Parts valve that someone had installed before my ownership.

That's good advice. I've found that after you have flushed, it's a good idea to blow compressed air thru the tubes to remove any residual liquid. This will also give you an idea of how clean the residual liquid is. If it isn't clear, it isn't clean. Then vacuum for an hour or so. You must get the flush out or it will dilute the oil and the compressor will be starved of lubrication.

I figured there would be a few that couldn't make it and is why I tried to capture a little bit of everything in the video.

To be clear: You flush ONLY the condenser and evaporator! NEVER flush the compressor, NOR the hoses. You ALWAYS replace the o-rings on any components that have been disconnected.

Great tip! That would be a lot better since it is a direct bolt-in and likely has the needle properly set.

Be sure to also clean the carb and add new o-rings on the brass insert along with a new top gasket. Should run great!

Maybe you saw the video where I put down the KilMat sound deadener? Carpet removal was just temporary to lay the tiles. With the new axle and driveline angles, it's pretty quiet inside the cab. Definitely makes it more comfortable as a daily.

Yours is a single cylinder and has a side draft carburetor. I've not worked on one, and so don't know if it has the fuel shut-off solenoid. However, if it does, it may have the same issue where the internal seals shrink along with a corroded solenoid needle. Before modifying the solenoid interface, I suggest a complete disassembly and clean of all the fuel channels/galleys (you will need an o-ring/gasket kit). If it has a solenoid, remove it and the brass seat and make sure there is no corrosion. Ethanol gas will wreck a carburetor if left for 6 mos or more. Keep in mind, George Bush administration phased in ethanol gas in the early 2000's, so it probably had it and set awhile before you bought the tractor.

Converted by T56speedometer.com

Yes sir, that's how it works.

All duals are 1 ton, however the HO52 is same as HO72 except for brake drum inner diameter. 52 = 11.1", 72 = 13". Earlier HO52 had a different pinion bearing than 72, but later are same brg.

@@BriansGarageUSA great info! I know the front end was converted to a 1 ton on this truck before I had it and I dropped a fresh 383 with 700R4. But, I've got a whine even at low speeds and a vibration at about 55mph that keeps getting worse as I gain speed. I've checked the angle, tranny tail, wheel weights, brakes, and all I have left is the rear end. Trying to find master kits or just part numbers to piece one together has been a quest.

@@s9azz I'd check the driveshaft carrier bearing. These weren't phased well from the factory. The 3/4 & 1 tons have 4 degrees up at the axle pinion and so the engine should be 4 down. The shaft out of the trans should be inline with the trans, so also 4 down. I had to shim my driveshaft carrier 3/4" (3x 1/4" shims) to get everything perfect. You can be out up to a degree and still be okay though. Driveshaft carrier bearings will make a noise that sounds a lot like a brake rotor rubbing on the backing plate when they start getting bad. It is most noticeable when you slow down for a stop with the window open. Gear whine generally gets louder the faster you go and sort of sounds like a howl at high speeds.

@@BriansGarageUSA no carrier for me, it's been converted to a 1 piece shaft. I will check the angles again though. Been about 3 years since I checked which is when it was balanced. The symptoms you are describing very much sound like what I am experiencing though. Really appreciate you taking the time to respond.

Appreciate it!

It does work really well. Mine became even easier to close over time, yet the wind noise is still very controlled.

*Shudder when A/C compressor kicks on *Shudder/stall when stopping *Hunting idle goes high then low

Glad to help

Thanks my friend, glad to help!

It is handy considering there is no room behind the seat back. Provides storage for jumper cables, ratchet straps, hub cap tool, etc.

It is a 2001, q-jet carb, EZ TCU

Just opposite of that. I used the factory 4L80E converter along with a 168T flexplate. The flexplate was designed for mate up to TH400 and so only has 3 bolt holes. 3 of the 6 bolts holes in the converter are not used. Does that make sense?

@@BriansGarageUSA got it ok thank you

It's a BIG job for sure!

True, probably not a good idea to flush with kerosene.... I fully agree that nitrogen is better than air, but most of us car guys don't have nitrogen sitting around. Also, know that a lot of classic systems have been open to the atmosphere for awhile, so the humidity has already done its thing. You're gonna have to vacuum regardless and you're going to have to use a new drier. Run the vac for an hour and any remaining moisture will get trapped by the desiccant.

Many times once a system has been opened for greater than 48 hrs using vacuum pump over night is enough. A dedicated 3/8----3/4 vacuum line with a 8-10 cfm pump will reduce vacuum time by 50% Using nitrogen to sweep moisture out will reduce vac time as well .

TH350 was OE

Good question! A modern parallel flow heat exchanger uses several tiny tubes in each cross tube. It is nearly impossible to effectively flush and should be replaced. The method in the video is only for old school, tube and fin designs.

@@BriansGarageUSA Interesting, I’m getting a different answer from another shop stating the evaporator core can indeed be flushed with a good solvent, just not backlashed.

@Mike_44 Well, I work mostly on old cars and am not an A/C guy. So, I recommend doing what your A/C shop suggests. That said, the evap is not easy to replace. So that might be a factor in the decision to attempt flushing it? I'd guess they still intend to replace the condenser, right?

@@BriansGarageUSA I’m doing all the work myself. I feel comfortable wrenching on my cars doing most services, have already swapped two motors so I’m not intimidated by the little a/c work. However, I did not have the knowledge, hence I’ve been doing so much research on the a/c realm. Thank you for help. I will try back flushing the evaporator and the lines. And yes I will also be replacing the condenser and compressor.

Sorry, the only pics I have are what are shown in the video. But, if you pause the video you can probably make out the trim necessary to graft to the BOP structure.

@@BriansGarageUSA thanks. That is what I ended up doing so it was best possible guess heh