Відео

Puoi pulirlo con benzina e uno straccio o compri all'auto ricambi un pulitore freni e usi quello

I was thinking the exact same thing!! 😂. It looks like a painful process. My wife has a smart car and I do routine maintenance on it. You need hands of a 3 year old to access most of the bolts. Her car has 44,000 miles on it. When do you think the clutch replacement will come?

Years of pain

At around 70000 maybe 80000 (kilometers)

It's really hard to extract, because there are elastic steel rings that keep it locked in place. Use a pry bar or rubber mallet, but you need to protect the delicate aluminum parts. Avoid direct contact.

With a volatile solvent such as brake cleaner, but it must not interact with rubber parts.

Gracias a ti saludos

I got a rebuild kit with bearings, unfortunately I don't know what the reference number is

Why do you say that? My wife has one. Obviously, it’s Mercedes low end car-but you have to love it for the fuel economy and parking!

@@grazz7865 have you driven honda city or mg 5 ? those cars have way better fuel economy . how about a shitty cluch actuator ( the worst in industry ) or the useless suspention system that makes you feel like riding a horse

@@fuyouto suspension I’ll agree-could be way better. On the highway-hit a heavy bump it sounds like the car has no suspension at all. Clutch actuator is not too bad if you have a mechanical ear and can listen to what the car is doing. Take your foot off the gas, let the RPMs calm down and it will shift right away-nice and smooth. Give the gas one quick pump while you’re moving and it will downshift. Little trucks to the trade.

De nada saludos

Thank you

Hi, do you mean the flywheel or the clutch disc? However, if you do the work yourself you save a lot

So when i start it or reverse it it gives me a small kick and shaking so they told me that i need clutch and plate but what else do i have to change necessarily? ( also i think it must be a difficult job for me to do)

The smart clutch lasts less than 100,000 km. The flywheel, if it hasn't been mistreated, much more. Even damaged engine mounts can create shocks like a kick. However, you have to dismantle it to understand.

@@UnauThorizedMechanic thank you so much 🙏

You are welcome!

Grazie, si bisogna scaricarlo prima. Comunque l'operazione di scarico è mostrata nell' Ep.1 al minuto 11

Grazie!

Torque specifications of valve body reinforcement plate is 80 to 120 inch-pounds

They're actually very forgiven, they don't round as easy but they are kind of a pain

😂

Ciao! Si è il sintomo che si è rovinata la tenuta della pompa dell'acqua. Cambiandola dovresti risolvere.

Hi, my opinion is that they only changed the actuator. The price you wrote is not commensurate with changing a clutch.

Ciao quegli adattatori mi sono serviti per spingere il paraolio e la tenuta dell'acqua. I cuscinetti non gli ho mai smontati. Comunque mandami una email così te li passo.

Super_piciu ch10cc10la L1ber0 punt0 1t

I downloaded it somewhere on the Web, I don't remember the exact link. With a little searching you should be able to find one.

I don't remember what Allen key it was, but I'm sure it was imperial not metric.

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is expected to be used.

My video clearly shows how to remove the shift lever from the shift cam.

Hi, it's a lot of screws, you should download the workshop manual.

Thank you!

Ciao grazie! I paraoli arrivati ad un certo punto è inevitabile cambiarli. Estrarre gli assi di trasmissione non è immediato perché sono agganciati con un anello elastico. Un consiglio che ti posso dare è stai molto attento alle sedi, è un'attimo a rovinarle e a quel punto non smetterebbero più di perdere olio.

@@UnauThorizedMechanic cambiati fatto fare il lavoro da un meccanico amico grazie.

Thank you!

Ceramic water pump seals, Pump impeller shaft oil seal (under water pump seals), O-ring, Gasket.

On yamaha official home page could you say the nummbers of the parts i have everything on german :/

Or if you could send me a dm on instagram or something like that im in a real shitty possition right nov would need some help tbh

I don't know what the part numbers are anymore.

I advise you to download the workshop manual, and download an exploded view. So you can go to the spare parts dealer and ask him exactly what you need.

Ciao, è abbastanza normale che sia molto duro da svitare. Che sia proprio bloccato è molto difficile, essendo il tappo dell'olio la filettatura è protetta dalla corrosione. Magari è stato stretto in maniera eccessiva, ti consiglio di insistere per svitarlo, alzando la macchina ed aiutandoti con una prolunga per fare leva o con un avvitatore ad impatto più forte. Aspirare l'olio non è una delle scelte migliori, non avresti la certezza di aspirarlo tutto dal punto più basso e la morchia sul fondo della coppa rimarrebbe completamente depositata.

ciao, hai poi risolto? ho lo stesso problema! grazie!

@@onevision984 alla fine ho aspirato l’olio 🤷🏻‍♂️

The shift cam is locked together with the linkage with an Allen key. That's what i found, you can glimpse it in this video, or in Ep.3 at 1:08.

@@UnauThorizedMechanic no, it's a torx

Every single on of these videos skips over how that shift arms comes apart and then I am factually searching is there an inner seal and outter seal??? I mean every geedamn one of these videos skips right over the shift arm seal or seals.

The shift arm on my 1356 has about 15/16 bolt is why I am asking I have not seen a 1356 like the one I have in my 88 F150 that has the nut on the shift arm itself to the trans.

"Give me a lever and I'll lift the world" Ἀρχιμήδης

Thank you! My bearing was in perfect condition, there was no need to change it. Changing a bearing mounted on an aluminum support is a delicate operation, take all the necessary precautions. It's easy to ruin.