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Layering liquids does typically help for durability, as long as you are able to manage film thickness with a roto wool. Regarding powders, because that is a hot application with an iron, we typically will apply those as a first layer and then put on any cold application top coats like liquids or roto wool blocks as a 2nd/3rd layer.

You can use which ever plate style you like, I generally recommend the IFP plate. Then you would just need to purchase a binding that works with that IFP plate. I highly recommend using a jig to drill the holes to ensure they are centered on the ski. Most cross country ski shops should have this. We should have some options to get you set up online and if you have any questions feel free to email us: Info@pioneermidwest.com Thanks!

If done correctly (thin layers of liquid) it is probably best to have multiple layers of liquid once you get to about 10km or so. It shouldn't hurt to have a second layer when you are less than 10km, you will just get better durability with a second layer past 10km.

Anything metal. Copper brass or steel

Like Steven said, any metal brush will work for cleaning. While steel is probably best as it has the finest bristles, copper or brass does just fine and is much more budget friendly. Typically you want a dedicated cleaning brush as you don't want to use a dirty brush after waxing your skis!

@@Pioneermidwest Thank you!

If you heat your bases up it could cause the bases to seal shut and not allow any wax to penetrate into the base of the ski. This will slow the skis down. Luckily, if it is not extreme damage, it can usually be repaired with a stonegrind.

Juuso likes to move the iron a bit slower than I do! Having the iron temperature a little higher allows you to move the iron faster. This will ultimately be safer for the ski as the iron is not sitting in one place for as long. In addition, we have been doing a bit of testing with iron temperature and have noticed that there can be some performance benefits to a warmer iron.

I just re-read your comment and noticed that you said max temperature, not recommended temperature. I wouldn't bash anyone for running an iron at max temperature, it just isn't something I would necessarily recommend to newer waxers!

@@Pioneermidwest oh yeah they recommended this in an event for experienced waxers, if you let that 200°c iron sit still on a base you'll ruin the base pretty quickly.

Its a skate ski.

As mentioned, I was focusing on only glide wax for this video and applied the wax to a skate ski which waxes the entire zone.

Any condition that isnt harsh snow, new snow or warm/wet snow

The blue waxes work best in natural snow that isn't necessarily new or old. If it isn't any of the conditions where the Yellow/Black/Pink work in, Blue would be the wax you would want to apply.

You need to think about differently about most powders in the non-fluoro world. Almost all powders on the market are paraffin based at the moment and act similarly to any standard melt-on block. Waxes are now classified into two broad categories, hot application and cold application. Any thing that would use an iron to apply would fall under the hot application and can be used interchangeably (blocks and powders) and anything that is applied without heat would fall under the cold application (liquids, and roto blocks). And just to make things slightly more confusing there are some specialty products like Rex Olos Powder (pioneermidwest.com/products/rex-olos-n-kinetic-finish-powder?_pos=1&_psq=olos&_ss=e&_v=1.0) that fall under the cold application umbrella as it cannot be applied with an iron. Hope this helps!

do you sale Rex products in your store, thanks Jeremy

@@ericjou094 Yes we do:) pioneermidwest.com/search?q=rex&type=product

The best way to use this technique is to start doing it at the top of a steep and large hill to control your speed so you do not get going that fast down a hill a skier may be uncomfortable on. However, if done with wide turns, you can slow down a bit if you get going faster than you expected.

Hey Bob, the previous drill is only meant to be a drill that helps learn how to do that initial crunch to fully engage your core. Then you would want to extend a bit more for actually skiing. The over-exaggeration drill is meant to help skiers get their hands up higher as they usually lose out on some power with their hands too low. Hope this helps clarify that!

Madshus has -3 to +3 whereas the Salomon has -3 to +2. Madshus adjusts 0.5cm per move and Salomon adjusts 0.75cm per move. Let me know any questions? Thanks! Matt

Aplina and Madshus are both producing a SkateX boot. We are going to be carrrying the Madshus SkateX boot for 24-25 and we really liked the fit. The SkateX binding only fits on skis with a NIS plate. The only major brand that uses NIS plates currently is Madshus and we do carry their race ski lineup. In the future, I would assume Rottefella will make the SkateX binding compatible with IFP but that is not confirmed or guaranteed. ~Matt Liebsch

You bet!

Swix doesn't really make a structure similar to what we recommended. Their tool functions completely differently than the tools we use. If you have the geared pressbox built by Finite it will put a more aggressive pattern on the ski. From this tool the most similar would have been the V005 with a 1mm linear on the tails. If you have one of their newer tools, it would still be the 0.5mm V structure, with a 1mm linear on the tails!

@@PioneermidwestThank you for replying and letting me know! I have basically predecessor of what's now Swix T0424, unfortunately not Finite pressbox. 😞Would you mind sharing how the Red Creek structure tool works differently than Swix T0424? I had always thought that the function of hand pressed structure tools is pretty much the same regardless the manufacturer so eager to learn more, if you find a minute to share.

The geared structure tools end up applying structure deeper/more aggressively since they actually cut into the base (roll backwards) vs push in a structure like a traditional pressbox or Red Creek tool. The T0424 tool is similar to Red Creek in the sense that they roll forwards but has different structures available on the market that don't exactly line up with the Red Creek models.

Thanks so much for finding the time and letting me know! Appreciate it.

This is a tricky topic! There is a relationship between both how dirty and how wet the snow is. Regardless of how dirty the snow is, the wetter it is the easier it is for the "dirt" to be picked up. There are also certain types of structure that are more liable than others. Typically press tools such as the Red Creek tools are a safer options as opposed to cutting tools like the gear boxes you will see from Finite/Swix/SRB etc. We typically will recommend the Red Creek tools because they are easy to use, and for the most part are very "safe". We did some durability testing through the week and found that the structure we were using and recommending did not pick up as much dirt as others in our test.

Glide cleaner is for use on the glide zones of the skis and does not strip out all the wax. Base cleaner is for kick wax removal and is more aggressive

@@Pioneermidwest thank you!

The term "wool" and "fleece" are sometimes used interchangeably (even though products are very much different). Roto wool is fluffy, while fleece is harder. Most all non-fluoro waxes work better with the wool (and this includes Swix). The fleece creates too much heat and can make the liquid waxes turn gummy and slow down your skis in certain situations. While Swix indeed does recommend the Roto-Fleece, we have found that the Roto-Wool performs better.

On Wednesday and Thursday after the first hour, it was very hard for the skin skis since there was a lot of moisture getting into the skins. Skincare products seemed to help but still weren't enough.

@@Pioneermidwestit’s not just a question of water… also just basic physics. Skins physically grab the snow, but if the snow is loose enough that it doesn’t hold to itself, you’re out of luck. Maybe in this new era of weather midwesterners will learn to embrace klister more. It’s not hard and it’s the best cross country skiing there is. These birkie days were amazing klister days and I felt sad for all the people I overheard proudly proclaiming their joy in “not having to deal with klister” pre-race….

Yes that was a last minute change, both tools worked very well and are a similar Xmas tree pattern and were very close in ski speed.

@@Pioneermidwest Were you applying structure to the entire ski or just binding to tails?

@@cpm881 We applied the christmas tree tool to the entire ski, and the 1mm on the tails only (heel plate and back).

I used the Rode Multigrade and had FANTASTIC kick all the way through. Admittedly I was in Wave 1 (and obviously I don't know your wave) so we probably had the best possible conditions for the day too.

Multigrade was great on Sunday morning and Start Uni Wide was another great option with a little more kick!

@@Pioneermidwest any cover over those choices? I used Rex Gold Moly on Friday, and had icing issues. I started in the last wave of the Kortie and finished 26th in the open race (i.e., non-elites), so I ended up skiing through many hundreds of people. Don't know whether the chewed up tracks or the actively falling snow contributed to the icing. But, I'm sure the latter wasn't helping. What would you recommend in the future if it's actively snowing and I'm on chewed up tracks?

@@peterschultz2888I’d bet it was the fresh snow. I started in wave 1 of the kortie and finished 6th. Vauhti premix violet/universal with a little extra universal underfoot kicked like a total mule and didn’t ice but did noticeably slow down the second lap especially in the tracks. Probably didn’t need the extra uni - straight violet/uni would have been great. FWIW all week I was confused by the gold recommendation. I understand that to be more of a fine-grained snow wax. Like for just as manmade snow turns to needing klister. My observation was this snow was way transformed so the more standard violets when cold or multigrades for warmer seemed more logical to me.

@@peterschultz2888 When we tested on Friday morning we also tested some covers and before it started to snow, we found that covers didn't help speed up the skis and only took kick away. Once it started to snow, a cover would probably have helped reduce icing and still have given some kick. One of my favorite covers when it starts to snow on klister conditions is Vauhti GT Pink.

We love Red Creek. For a basic setup, the 140mm handle and blue/horsehair combo... pioneermidwest.com/products/red-creek-roto-handle-140mm?_pos=19&_sid=b6aee1f6d&_ss=r and pioneermidwest.com/products/red-creek-roto-brush-combi-xc-horsehair-hard-blue-140mm?_pos=40&_sid=b6aee1f6d&_ss=r

cleaning is the best and for sure before hot wax. But in a pinch I liquid wax at times without cleaning ~ML

We recommend brushing until the structure in the ski itself looks clear of wax and the base is uniformly black with no excess paraffin wax. The brush holds some wax so some of the dust that is coming off on the ski could be coming out of the brush.

Thanks for filming this and sharing. Great video and workshop! I often have this same question myself on how much to brush. Many people say “you can’t over brush a ski, keep going until no more powder comes out”. I believe that’s a situational context and that with an aggressive steel or brass brush, brushing too much can begin to really strip the ski and possibly remove or alter the small amount of wax that is intended to be left on the ski. Would you agree with that or expand at all?

We have not done a clinic yet for kick, but we are working on it. I have a shorter video that was made last year that you can watch though here: ua-cam.com/video/L3zovCKa3HI/v-deo.htmlsi=wrARSPzpMjkWVVUh

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