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It did the job and never leaked again after the one piece Fel-pro was installed

I use Endura self etching primer on most bare metal surfaces , but in this case where the metal is 18 g , I got lazy and didn't sandblast it . Its an awesome product and it should last a long time even though theres still some rust in the pits . Its designed to use on bare clean metal but you can use it on prepped rusty surfaces as well

Ha ! Never heard of that trick . Have you checked to see if you have excessive crank case pressure ? Check your pvc system to see if its working properly

Glad you found the channel again . Keep on rolling !

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 thank you man, you aswell

Bummer in the summer ! That sucks but at least square body's are still pretty plentiful . You'll find a better one

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 they'll be fine

Thanks my man ! Its so much better now

One of those holes by the pump in the earlier blocks is open to oil pressure and will leak by the push rods clearance in the bore if theres not a bolt in place . That casting in the block is used to hold the pumps push rod up and out of the way so you can install a new pump . Kind of dumb cause you can easily pull the rod out and grease it up . Then it will stay put while you slide in the new pump . That hole gets over looked and the bolts sometimes don't go back in place

Hey thanks bigdad . They only made 7165 Wagon's in 1970 . I have never seen another one in my neck of the woods for a long long time . My friends dad had one when we were going to school in 73. Probably the last one I ever saw ? The Quarter panels are the last areas that need to be rebuilt aside from the floor and the rear wheel wells . Hope your doing well in New Zealand

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 I live in USA Michigan

We didn't realize the hood was right at the Bone Yards gate till it was opened up ! There comes a point of no return and yah may as well keep going on it . Its a keeper now and will last for many years

Thanks man . The wagons are getting pretty rare now and were the s.u.v. of the day . The dogs defiantly love them and are a good mobile kennel . Always wanted a K5 , and I'm still looking for one to fix up to add to the fleet .

Its the original weather seal . I think you can a replacement at "Brothers Truck Parts " ?

Thanks

Or you could try Steele Rubber products

This is a Custom Deluxe with no a/c . So stock they have a crummy notch where the A/C vent would be that is useless to hold anything . Its perfect for a couple of gauges . Theres a small tach on the steering column as well . The dash had a small crack so I glued on a piece of thick leather to hide it . The speaker covers are also to hide some cracks . Added toggle switches for driving lights and accessories with a charging switch for the campers battery

It's been 6 yers since the pan was replaced and its still not leaking

I would say if you have a 350 it would be cheaper to change the diffs ratio only if you don't haul loads or pull trailers . If you have a 305 then you will benefit more from the Gear Vendors unit . I only use 3rd and 4th OD with my set up .

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 can you use it in 2nd gear or is it limited by speed? Changing gear ratios in the diff doesn’t help the spread between gears of the transmission. I have 4.10 gears. I’ve always hated the huge rpm drop between 2nd and 3rd. Hard to keep an engine in a good rpm range with that big of a gap

As the decal says " 8 SPEED " that comes with the unit , you can use it in any gear . I find with my 5 litre that it needs a gear between 3-4 and thats the only gear I use it in

What are you planning to do with it ?

@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 I would like to make it a daily or once a week driver. It's been in NC all its life. Happy to send some pictures via email or messenger.

Its not the easier vehicle to restore . Has all the big truck features but in a small package so things are tight and theres not a lot of room to work in most cases . I replaced all the body mounts with polyurethane replacements . Rust likes to form in these places and grows behind the mounts . Among other areas on the vehicle . They're getting kind of rare now and are starting to go up in value .

@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 Thank you for the insight. It will be a big project and a lot of learning as I go.

Hey Big Dad . I've been wanting to get back into it the last couple of months , but things keep popping up that distract me from getting back down in the shop . I'll be getting back to the wagon real soon ! : )

Sounds like a good plan to start at the foundation of the body panels before you start on the pillars . Nobody likes crawling around on the ground , but when you put in the time to clean things up before they get out of hand , you save time and grief by not waiting too long . I had no idea the Blazer was this bad and glad I took care of it now than later .

@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 That Blazer sure didn't look too bad. We don't get salt on the roads in Australia, we are moving to South Australia next year near the beach so I'll be using a lot of Por15 . I'm sick of crawling under cars especially the impala. Was going to put a bed under it ha,ha, had to replace everything under that car. Brakes lines ,suspension, fuel sender ,exhaust system and paint it. Was worth it ,car goes great and drives really nice. I'm a mopar guy but I'm really liking the old GM stuff. Can see why they're so popular.

A hoist would certainly make those ground jobs a thing of the past ! but most car guys can't afford a hoist or have the space to install one. Best to make it as comfy as you can . Like you say install a bed under there to take the edge off ha ! A couple layers of cardboard and a pillow can make those crummy jobs a little more tolerable . For me being next to the ocean and living in a rain forest is hard on vehicles . Por-15 is ok as long as you take the scale rust off and clean it up with acetone . Don't make the same mistake I did with that product and make the metal too clean . It's designed to bound to rust and if you take too much of the rust off it doesn't work so good .Then you may as well take it all off and go to an epoxy primer paint system . Those old Chevy wagons are nice . You just don't see them around anymore in these parts. Hey Peter . Any relation to the famous composer Ron Goodwin ?

I'm glad you got something out of the vid . I want to get back in the shop and continue on the Lemans with winter approaching . Its down to having too much stuff and wish I had more room to be able to use the other bay for pulling in my square bodies . I'm committed to the wagon and need to complete it to free up the only bay I have . So yah .... kind of stuck to seasonal outside working space

Yes you're right .

I'm scratching away at it when I have some extra time away from all the other chores

No I haven't . The problem with where I live is availability of a lot of things . I have to drive an hour to the nearest body supplies store and their stock has a lot to be desired . The city is 2 hours away after taking a ferry . I have high build primers that I should use up and I will use the everglass and mix some glass resin for the pot marks . It seems to work pretty good

Do you have a brand name you use ? I was just checking out Amazon and what they carry . Haven't tried getting auto-body materials from them before . Maybe that would save me the long drive ? I would still have to get all the paint products from my auto-body supplier .

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 Eastwood Contour Polyester Primer is one i have used PPG has a good one too but pricy

Never liked the chemical stripper approach . Its toxic , messy and it never seems to take the paint off in one application

Hey Big Dad . How's it going ? I still haven't made a decision on the paint as yet but the Cortex Silver sounds good and will go with the green interior . Thats the thing with green interior . You're limited with colour choices .Its getting close to needing some around for when I start to reassemble some of these panels .Like the hood , but theres still the quarter panels and the floor to rebuild so theres still time to decide on the colour . Sounds like you got a couple of nice ones in your fleet

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 Ya took me 4 decades to build up my money pitt's started at age 16 working on stating my next 71 Cuda going to make a replica of a car my dads buddy bought new back in 71 red 71 Hemi Cuda .I KEEP telling my self this the last one .I would like to do a tow car for my GTO if i could find a car my mom & dad had ( A 1970 Bonneville wagon Palisade Green ) that would be a good color for your wagon with green int.

@@bigdaddy9864 Sounds like you got it going on with the fleet ! A Bonneville Wagon with a 455 would make a great car hauler . I'll check out the Palisade green . I was a contractor up until I retired last year , but my real passion is bringing old vehicles back to life again . Its always good to stay busy with something you like doing . Like a Hemi Cuda .Thats a good money pit to through your cash at ! I think these old classics will only go up in value even with electrics eventually taking over . They will make elec conversion kits so these classics will always be on the road even if they shut down internal combustion . Its the rolling chassis thats worth the money

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 I owned a body shop in the 90's in Detroit MI area sold it moved up to norther Mi just before the Mackinaw Bridge got out of that NUT house down there I go to the St.Ignace car show a lot .p.s Back in the 80'&90 I used to fix up 73-87 Square body Chevy's & GMC's pick/up's ,Suburban's & K5 Blazer's & Jimmy's ,love those truck believe it or not i had over the lass 40 years 150 of them i would buy 3'4 a month and run them threw my body shop and sell them i got forced by the state to get a auto sale's license .only thing i hatted about those trucks was that dam 305 eng! I would get excited when i got one with a 350 in it ,I even had some 454 and 250 6 cyl one's had a 400 small block,6.2 diesel and a 292 6cyl too.oh i all most for got had a 2wd 1980 with a 350 olds diesel those were something

Hi Peter This is turning into a salvage job on this hood . I think in this case less is more . I'm going to leave the welder out of ithe mix for fear of creating more issues . I'll defiantly sand blast it to kill all the rust . Then use the Ever glass to fill all the pots and craters . The thing with Por-15 , ( although a good product ) its formulated to stick to rust . If I sandblast and apply it doesn't work that great. Ask me how I know and I've made that mistake before . When you sand blast the metal and kill all the rust your way ahead in the repair and will get the best longevity from your efforts . I've used the Endura coatings for years and they last forever if you sandblast the metal first

I'm kinda thinking the same thing . If I attempt to weld up the deep craters , it could melt through the skin and open up a can of worms . As much as I like to see new metal welded in to these bad areas , I think I'm better off to leave the welder alone . I don't really have a video where I explain anything about spot welds . Its important to let your finish panels paint cure up for a couple weeks before attempting to spot weld them back together again . Remove the paint about the size of a dime around the spot weld area , clamp it in place and weld it back together cooling the metal as much as possible so as to achieve minimum paint burn back

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 Bro, do you use a regular spot welder with the copper tongs that clamp the metal together and heat through the clamp tips until it welds? or are you using a torch technique, such as drilling a hole through one piece and welding thru to the other piece filling the hole? I sometimes use a spot welder I got pretty cheap from Harbor Tool. Great thing about the spot welder is the heat is very concentrated right where the weld is and there is very little distortion.

I've been using the mig welder

I just uploaded the dismantling of the GTO hood

Thanks and good to have a morel booster to keep me going . Theres still a long way to go till its done

Endura 2-C epoxy primer . I've used it since the 80's . Great stuff !

I'll just keep hacking away at it and one day it will be finished

Hey daddy-o. I like to restore the original body panels cause nothing fits like the original pieces . In the wagons case maybe I should have gotten a pair of GTO fender wells for the time I put into these , but my rebuilt fenders are not going to be exactly the same as stock so I may as well build the fender wells to fit these cause I'd probably be altering a set of aftermarket ones to make them mate up . That is a rare truck to have a 5 spd manual 350 . By 89 they were starting to drop automatics in just about every truck

Your right daddy . Priced them in the after market for a GTO , but to get them to my door in Canada ? mmm🤔 All the good stuff is in the States . So I figured I may as well fix the original ones . Besides the fenders I repaired are not going to be exactly the same as factory so I'll probably have to do some alterations here and there to get them to fit right ? I also don't trust the black paint they use for after market panels . So they would have to be stripped down anyways .

I've been busy on a renovation for a couple of years , but now I'm back working in the shop . Glad to know theres someone out there that likes these videos !

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 Glad to see you back. I've learned a lot from your videos. You're one heck of a craftsman! Always loved the S-10 and squarebody videos.

@@Spennyman10 Hey thats great that you like them . I've had so much going on that I haven't done a truck video for a long time . I completed the Sonoma work truck and painted it last summer , but I was racing to get it done before the season changed that I didn't video to rust repairs . I did the build outside cause my shop is full . It was your classic " worse than I originally thought " case with the Sonoma , but its all repaired and is a good daily driver now . Its been very reliable as S 10's can be

No I went to NAPA this time , but I usually shop for car parts one Amazon

@@squarebodychevyoverhauls6982 ok thanks

@@robertgoodman-xd9zc Usually cheaper on AZ , but sometimes yah gotta spend more to get it back on the road sooner

Yes I still have the truck and I was going to do a video about the chassis paint I used and how its holding up 6 years after the restoration . I've been busy on the LeMans so I have't got around to it . I guess I could have gone with a 5 speed OD , but I figured this was the easier way of getting more gears . No regrets on the Gear Vendors

A renovation has been keeping me busy , but this is where I want to be ! Thanks for the incentive and for your comment

Thats ok , but thats how I was taught . Create a depression in the cherry , then hammer the surrounding material into the pocket then quench . Theres usually more than one way to get to the end results , but I'll try it out your way and see how I like it . I'll comment next time I heat shrink .

Thanks man . I wasn't looking forward to getting the Blister right , but it wasn't as hard as I thought . 3 more blisters to go !

It is work,...but I am enjoying the challenge , and making the videos is cool and an incentive for me to get down to the shop and get more footage of the Wagon . One of the more difficult areas on the car is chalked up and fabbed in . Three more to go . I wasn't looking forward to dealing with them until I had more tools . Which side is the quarter from on the one you have ?