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Excellent video!

That's so strange I tried size 6 and is tiny my fingers couldn't reach the fourth finger. I am small woman . They sold me palo santo Brazil castanets. Is it Oke but I got size 7

I bought some castanets from a dance shop in Barcelona nd I find them too heavy. I have a smaller pair that I have used for years, they, are not quite right either. Thank you again for clarifying the proper way of going about finding and playing this instrument properly.

I've been fascinated by castanets and flamenco dancing since I was a child. A lot of what you have explained in these videos. has clarified and confirmed what I have discovered for myself. it is all about practice and and enjoyment. I'm 71 years. It's excellent work for arthritic fingers.

Thank you very much. So clearly explained.

I've just returned from Spain and a great holiday. My wife bought me a pair of castanets. Here I am discovering the secrets. And this is brilliant. My reason? As a retired music teacher, something new, but keeps my fingers very active. Totally top stuff. 😊

The microphone quality is the only shock i had , amazing videos as always though. I don't think my brother and sister would be thrilled if i tried teaching this to their kids though.

Thank you very much for your beautiful castanets lesson .🙏🌹❤👍🇱🇰

Thank you so much

Thank you very much, excellent video 😍

omgosh! I absolutely love your castanet tutorials!!! Ole!!!

Thank you teacher for the lessons and tips

Thank you for the basic lesson how to plau castenet

thanks, pretty much what I was looking for. I'm neither a musician nor a dancer, and I think I'll be served well just buying something used from ebay (I'm eyeing what looks like an old ebony pair contrary to your advice, I can just carve them lighter if I want louder/brighter). I want to try just one castagnette for clapping rythm while holding a protest sign with te other hand (there are weekly pal°°tine protest marches in my city that never seem to have quite enough percussion for thr chanting). I'm a little surprised that you call heavy wood basically a sign of a bad or cheap castagnette, since those heavvy woods are definitely more expensive. also it looks like grenadillo is the standard for real castagnettes, and that is a not super hard but very hard tropical hardwood, harder than just about anything from temperate climates, including oak for example (but brighter in tone, very stiff). I'm also seeing as modern options zebrawood and purpleheart, both more moderately hard tropical hardwoods (but stiff). the only wood I'm seeing used that I would pass as not hard is maple (moderately hard hardwood by temperate climate standards, elastic, reputation for tonal clarity, used on almost all violin family instruments and many old guitars). I understand that super heavy woods (african ebony, african blackwood, cocobolo) will be relatively quiet, dull, and presumably tiring to play, but clearly really soft woods are not suitable. the only really soft wood on castagnettes is actually the stuff that they hide under very thick and hard black lacquer. I'm a repair-focused violin maker, so I do have some tips for maintenance and repair. what you're calling discolouration is varnish wearing off and possibly sweat penetrating into and oxidizing the wood afterwards (dark spots). this can weaken the wood slightly, and by increasing moisture changes, losing varnish probably increases the likelihood of cracking. varnish such as shellac can be reapplied (preferably after dirt removal with something like fine 000/0000 steel wool), but is tricky to make smooth and shiny. what's easier to apply and recommendable to players, restores much of the look and provides moisture protection are oil finishes like tung oil (the all ntural option, but smells a little rancid for up to ~3 months), boiled linseed oil with drsing agents, or the more arificial but more varnish-like modern concoctions such as danish oil, which can be applied repeatedly to build a shiny layer. if you happen to have walnut oil, that does dry very very slowly by itself but is acceptable as a wood finish. only use hardening/"drying" oils, non-drying oils are for leather only. if you have any cracks whatsoever, absolutely do not apply oil tontge cracks. the way to go is to either, to be fancy, first remove sweat oil and dirt by sponge-bathing the crack thoroughly with warm water, then strong soap (the super fancy stuff is called vulpex, but dishwashing detergent will help a lot, too), and then warm water again, then dry off and dry out at room temperature for a day or so. then it's ready for glueing, removing oil helps a lot to a hell of a lot with durability depending on the glue used. acetone also works for degreasing and requires no drying time, but also heavily draws oil and colour from most tropical woods and dissolves most varnishes, so it would usually necessitate a full refinishing. you definitely want a highly water-resistant glue to withstand sweat. common water-based wood glues can be great, but require clamping pressure due to shrinkage while drying, which due to the rounded shape of castagnettes is likely impractical (if you do use water-based wood glue, try wrapping with tape, string, or rubber bands, and try without glue first). what works well without pressure or very short finger-pressure are either high quality 24 hour epoxy, or HIGH QUALITY superglue (some brands are terrible, I'm very happy with sicomet, 8300 for the thin option). both epoxy and superglue also are the best glues to use on oily wood and also if you're too lazy to soap-wash first. thin superglue is perfect for seeping into cracks, thick superglue and epoxy are for when you have two wholly separated pieces. slow-hardening epoxy can also be made much runnier and coaxed into cracks if you pre-heat the wood (hold it over a flame for ~3 minutes just far enough to not burn a hand directly above it, then it won't burn the wood, but expect the epoxy to harden much faster when hot). handle thin superglue very carefully to not apply too much that will run through and down and all over and always glue skin better than any other substance, ideally by making a little puddle in a tiny hollow spoon-ish-shaped bit of plastic garbage, and dabbing it onto the crack with something like the edge of a plastic card or knife. carefully wiggling cracks helps drive in any sufficiently runny glue. I recommend minimizing wood surface contamination and scraping off glue (with a steel scraper or a sharp knife edge that will then be less sharp) after it's hard, especially for superglue. apply thin superglue repeatedly over thecourse of several minutes (can take over 10 minutes to harden in deep cracks, but superglue accelerators are permissible and very fun to use) until the crack won't drink any more. after gluing all cracks and removing glue frpom the surface, you can apply oil finishes or varnish. oiling instead of revarnishing makes it look pretty and taken care of, without hiding the signs of use (patina) if you look closely, so it looks old but fancy. particularly after gluing and perhaps making a mess with the glue, full refinishing and making the whole thing look sort of new witg one uniform.finish all over can be the best option. in that case, acetone and abrasive paper may be appropriate to use (sand with multiple grits up to ~600 grit or 000 steel wool or finer for an oil-based finish). anyways, the important parts are: slow-curing epoxy and quality thin superglue are likely to work best for cracks. rinsing cracks with soap and water and allowing a day of drying time makes the glues work a lot better. oil-based finishes are recommended to replace worn-off varnish for looks and moisture protection, but absolutely do not apply any oil or varnish into open cracks! the super low effort option definitely worth doing is to just apply thin superglue to cracks, preferably on still fresh cracks. if you have tgin superglue and two loose pieces, hold them together, ttgen apply glue, keep holding until it sets, then peel of your fingers and apply more glur to crack until saturated. if you wipe it off one time very quickly with a paper towel, superglue smears look a lot like varnish (some woodturners actually use it as varnish, but the big surfaces release super noxious fumes). that's the super cheat option for extreme laziness. if for some reason you have actually valuable antique damaged castagnettes, avoid damage by getting an actual instrument maker to do it. bad repair work on instruments is the worst kind of damage, so I'm only advising DIY under the assumption that otherwise it won't get done at all. if you're more worried about not doing damage than you are about the repair standing up to heavy use, use totally non-waterproof wood glue or even hot hide glue or gelatin in order to make the work fully reversible (violin makers stick to hide glue semi-religiously for almost all repairs for this reason, great stuff, but extremely weak to moiature and would dedinitely require oiling or varnishing afterwards). applying boiled linseed oil or tung oil is unobjectionable in any case even on expensive instruments (assuming tropical hardwood like grenadillo, ebony, rosewoods, zebrano - on something less dense like maple it may be possible to add so much oil to slightly dull the sound) IF you check for cracks under good lighting first. DO NOT OIL OR VARNISH CRACKS, as I may have mentioned before once or twice. 😅

Thank you very much. It helps a lot. I love doing the exercises and playing together with you 😍

Thank you 🤩 I'm returning to castanets. My hands needed more time . I can't wait to learn melodies. Paco de Lucia. Santana. My hands got affected Lupus though i did physical therapy. Otherwise it'd be worse. Castanets is a wonderful therapy!!

This is fascinating and your way of teaching is so excellent.... I want to learn to accomplish this beautiful skill 👍💞

Hello, thank you for the lesson, but why are you calling finger 6 (ring finger) and finger 7 (middle finger), why are you calling them finger 5? It is confusing. Shouldn't they be called finger 6 and 7? (which as you explained can be played together or separately)?

Thanks for this extremely helpful video. I'm at the point where I need better castanets. I'm using Italian castanets that aren't compatible with RIA as they are long and thin. Do you have a recommendation? Thanks.

Very cool I just ordered a set

Great video course! If you are doing more, could you show/explain how you do the tchi behind your back? Or is it in one of the other videos? Might have missed it.

👏👏👏👏👏

Thank you for this great instruction and insight. Honestly, your instructions are the best I’ve seen

Will there be more lessons with castanets? Also lessons on Guajira fan movements

I went to my folks house with my adult kids, they brought a guitar and I had my castanets, my pop looked at me and said "why?" I responded "Pop you have arthritis in your fingers and so does your sister, I don't want that, this will keep that away." My Pop said "WOW great exercise and it sounds good."

It took me 2.5 months of two practice hours a day to get the connected ria, I got it, it wasn't easy but i did it

Pls advise us (your new viewers) on the actual red castanets you bought years ago, I bought them too via your recommendation, they are amazing. Thank you.

Thanks for these lessons

Thank you very much, i will look at those. Came back from Seville last week and got the bug and now i want to learn and play. 👋👋💃

Hi, can you please tell me what are the best castanets to buy for a beginner. I bought some really cheap tourist ones, but obviously not very good. Love your videos.👋

YES you are back :) I'm still playing Castanets since learning from your previous videos several years ago. Thank you for all you do.

Do you have classes in person

Seduce em all Carmen of Valencia !!!!!!!!!

This is possibly the very best single comprehensive video on improvement of the Ria. There are one or two others that are quite good, but not as comprehensive and, unfortunately for me, only in Spanish. Thank you for making this!

Is it just me? I like the sound of the first wood ones the best. 🤷‍♀️

Thank you from Niagara Falls Canada now I am learning from you. Amazing you are just amazing

wonderful teacher l learned more from you then classes i have been working with you about 4 yrs

I found this difficult to follow because I am facing you, so when you say Right, from my perspective it is actually left, so I have to reverse all the instruction.

Gracias!

Became interested in Castanets to include in my music production, so I have ordered a set and will start learning how to play~ Also learning guitar (grew up with piano, so expanding my musical ability where I can), so it will be interesting learning a couple instruments at once. Wish me luck ^_^

Great lesson! I can't wait for my castañuelas to arrive and start practicing! Are you in New Mexico? The picture in the background looks like it. I'm in NM!

You are such a lovely young woman, this was most enjoyable watching you and learning to play this. I don't own any castanets but must get some. I loved watching Flamenco dancers and this is so appealing and not too hard to learn. Thank you for a delightful tutorial!

Thank you so much. Really appreciate.

I'm going to Seville next month to change my flamenco shoes. In Espain size slightly different than the UK. Best I go in person and get perfect fit. Thank you for your 4 lessons on the castanets. It's a great foundation to build from!

Hello is there a left castanet & a right castanet or are each castanet the same? Thank you.

I just returned from Sevilla and bought three sets of toy castanets and your videos have been a huge help. But it’s 11pm and my neighbours will have to wait until morning 😂!

A friend just brought me castanets from Spain...so here I am learning something new.

What are yhe best brand castanetes to buy

I have a pair of castanets my grandpa got while in the Air Force from a dancer in France and wanted to learn how to play them. Thanks for this vid.

Wow you explain very well. I had teachers in person and your explanations and exercises helps me more