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Kind of freaked me out I could see the whole cycle right there. D

That was me throwing mud on the wall. I have asked Robert to put his eyes on it and he is building his own test set up to help. He has Flyer trains too, very nice. D

What kind of wheels are those?

@@TalkingGIJoe yes well a little stupid error but yes it feels good.

This is an American Flyer steam engine from 1950 that never had smoke or sound. I had to machine a slot in the Chassis, added 4 or 5 PC Boards .

@@user-mg6ix6sl9g it was a little scary I could figure out why the signal was gone. Then I saw the track. Smack my head moment. D

@@DennisMurphey yes it was a very faint line on the very edge. Easy to miss ! R

@@LondontransporduckL99 NO I can't say I do. I have limited access to some models as I usually run 1950s S Gage.

Irs not as bad as it looks, My tender sides frame are thinner and actually look like the tender is higher off the deck is only 1 or 2 mm taller. We will be just fine I can raise my top edge to better match the Vintage stuff, not a big deal. Dennis

I appreciate your input but have to tell you, I am researching and designing trains 110% of the time. My videos are about as good as I can do and still continue the work i have to do. My vision is way out ahead of the progress I can make and I am 74 years olds. I do all this for the hobby. It is not a business. I am a great story teller and could dictate to a video or slides but I am to slow to craft it all. Tell you what I have a Powerpoint Slide concept. I could send to you to see what you can do. If you want. D

@@DennisMurphey Sure I would love to have a glance.. where can I get in touch with you?

Coming along 2nd print due in 15 minutes had to retweak the width 2 mm. Should be a great platform for NGS to these RIB Hudson's which you can find cheap .in ruff shape. They make great NGS upgrades. Smoke Fan Driven, Digitial Sounds, DC Fields, Puff Smoke and All Wheel Pick Ups oh yeah.

I can see about it.

I think I may have to keep them both around, each has a place. D I too started my Flyer experience some time ago! Repairing a 283 in the late 50s. I ran that old thing for ever.

OK I think I will change the brass plate for some thick wire be easier to presolder then assemble is that solder connection not a think flat plate. Then i can say it all and understood. Clean up the Files and add the detailed instructions. I do appreciate all the feedback. It helps when I know folks are out there. Thank You

@@DennisMurphey I think thick wire might be easier to solder. R

I need more time in the day or fewer new projects. I have so much I want to do. D

Yeah I am refining the assembly process, getting good at it. Will up date and resend all the files to Thingiverse.

@@flyerjunction agreed! All night worrying about it. Came up with several variations. The Eyelet end should be soldered, neatly. I already added a extra space for the solder joint in the Eyelet hole. A single joint works well. The issue was the middle joint on the 6 wheel sideframe. Now thinking a 4x40 threaded insert or maybe 2x56 insert at the top of the center axle location. Bring all the Eyelet wires up to that point and screw in. With one long flex wire 22Ga going up to the tender. Then I went back to the silver wire method. Solder wire to the Eyelet press Eyelet in place have a notch to press the wire flush and up till it clears the wheel then loop it over to the oriental thin wire mounting hole on the pivot frame. Form a loop and screw it down there. Then add a long flex wire as we have on the silver wire setup. Or link all the eyelets leads to one spot on the side frame then bring that power over the the pivot frame. 3 or 4 key factors in play. 1. Axle power transfer 2. MultiAxle power junction 3. Side frame power out 4. Robust power hook up to tender electronics. As I study each key factor. I favor a hard robust joint. 1. Solder 2 Screw 3 Mechanical Junction Also several guidelines, 4 Amps, 22 GA wire, wheel clearance, strong connections, ease of fabrication, ease of assembly and ease of integration to Engine systems. And performance goals; must work reliably, min power loss, minimum wear and stress. All these this fly around in my head and have been for nearly a week. Most times 3 days is all I need to solve a problem. But this tiny issue nearly insignificant to grand scheme is killing me. I always realize why and how I ended up where I was with the silver wire. Yes tricky to fab and assemble but pretty well tics off all the needs and worries. Once it's fabricated and assembled.. Getting from wheel to tender power distribution must be reliable above all else. If fab is tricky so be it. If assembly is awkward so be it. But always within reason. It's a frickin' toy train, really. My brain just can't let go as I search for that one best way. It's a gift and a curse. D

@@DennisMurphey Hey, you have been in engineering for many years so that is what you do. I think you are on the right track with a mechanical connection at the truck going to the tender as we all know that wires moving around, up and down and back and forth eventually fail. We have all replaced wires between the locomotive and tenders of our trains.

Well I did some doodling at breakfast and went down with a few more options. Then I stared at the CAD file and make a copy and started to cut and draw more stuff on it. I realized the complexity of the part does NOT matter. It is just a form to hang the bits on and get the job done. So I went toward the deep end of detail and added a small piece of PSB to be a hub for the three Eyelet wires. Then I added a controlled outlet for the pickup wire. It just finished printing so I will return the NGS Round House and see what I can gin up. D

It will work need some fine tuning but I think we have it now. Added a little soldering pad in the side frame to simplify the assembly. Build one and the energy flow was perfect. Need to optimize the steps to build it up. Glue halves together well 1st. Then wire it up. Printing two more test pads with first mods. Whew ! Finally something I like on all aspects. D

@@alanb287 this is not the original tender, but I can say from experience and my layout these assemblies are much more robust thru switches, turns and dirty old Vintage classic Flyer track. I am so busy I don't clean my track often nor do I get service the tender wheels regularly. So I really see better operation. Especially when I stuff the tender and engine with 8 PC Boards digital control for reverse, sound. Smoke heat and smoke Puff supported by 2 AC to DC converters and 3 DC Volt regulators. So my engines thrive better with AWPU trucks. All the vintage engines would stop, Flicker, slow down the old reverse unit would drop out all the time especially when going through switches. I did this work to help me keep my own engines running smoother and they are. D

@@DennisMurphey Thanks for your explanation. It's a great idea.

No I don't need insulated wore but it just felt right. I better need the 22 ga wire to make sure all the little electrons are getting up to the tender. I thought about stripping 22 GA wire i have and gluing into the groove and soldering it to the Brass Bushing. But I am not done thinking about it.

@@DennisMurphey yes that would work great.

Well I found out why it flipped off the track. My rubber traction tires came off again. Glue must be old or something

@@DennisMurphey yes probably so

I will send one kit real soon, then follow up with whatever you need based on the engine model. I can test fit all but the switchers. Sold all mine in pinch. D

Gonna try a bare wire to eliminate the rubbing by the wheel.

@@johngilson3500 He called we were #2 on line but #1 call took all morning. We be fine. Thanks. D

@@DennisMurphey Okay because down here in Winter Haven we can't live without it!!!

All good needs a follow-up and a few parts Tuesday Only $350 ARGH!

This could the the inner plate for all the customizers out there, They can fabricate the outer plate to look like whatever and super glue it onto this prefabricated power pick up component. !?!?!?

All you guys help me to get to a better solution., My only frustration is my limited time and how long it takes to get progress. I need to squeeze for hours out of a day. But my Poor Wife really needs me to help her get her work done so it is what it is. Thank You for pushing me to a better outcome. We learn new things every day don't we.

I did it all for you. Actually I had juast learned how to CAD a groove in an Arc so it was pretty easy. Plus getting rid of the required gap for the axle insulator simplified all the assembly processes and fewer parts. Its a Win Win. This is the value of having more subscriptions and all those eyes on the work I do. Every comment can trigger an better idea or a different way to solve a problem. We need you guys to help make us better Designers and Makers. D

I just deleted the darn pick up wires altogether. I had an idea some time ago but i had not figured out how the design the channel in the plastic side frame. But I learned a new feature adding the bead on the Northern Truck side frame. I create an arc of a circle as the path then select a Pipe function and it creates a raised tube. on one arc I entered a negative number for diameter and it create channel cut out instead of a pipe. I deleted that and fixed it. But this morning I need a slot for the wire. So i created arc and and added the pipe with -1.5mm and by golly I got a groove to perfectly house the pick wire. I stripped each and and pressed in the bushings in and it worked like a charm,

Ball Bearing on Amazon hold on, Here you go, uxcell MF74ZZ Flanged Ball Bearing 4x7x2.5mm Shielded Chrome Steel Flange Rip Bearings 10pcs www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-4x7x2-5mm-Shielded-Bearings/dp/B07Z3F8SRS/ref=rvi_d_sccl_3/144-3576965-5459939?pd_rd_w=mCNx3&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=G7PWY467MSKMS93Q82PN&pd_rd_wg=uiRZe&pd_rd_r=1dc64763-7223-4857-aa51-440380b3a876&pd_rd_i=B07Z3F8SRS&th=1

I weill assemble Leon's Truck today and show you how to do it. I think it will be less tricky but you have to assemble to the design requirements. D

Think i need to print some tolls to help make it easier. D

Well I scraped the tool idea an just changed the whole design. No tools needed now. D

@@willamettevalleyAFtrains I rotated it 1st but the screen looked smaller, when I did it this I posted it and you tube presents the full view. I will rotate always now. D

Very Good input I wanted to keep it to the mechanical assembly that seemed to work well. Today I will show the wiring aspect and then assembly to Metal Vintage Chassis and NGS 3D Printed Chassis so you can best understand the universal use across Variations. Low Cost Vintage Classic would be Flyer Smoke with Mechanical Puff & Chuff, Metal Chassis and Classic Bodies, 3D printed Firebox, Ash Pan, DC Fields, and Digital Reverse, with Power Distribution, Smart Smoke Lid for Classis Smoke Assembly and Volt Regulator. AND AWPU Trucks in 4 wheel side frames. ???? D

We can refine the side frame forever, keep sharing the design thoughts. Many variations are in the making I can feel that. The pivot, mount and power pick is standard across the board. D

I have trouble with it. Took longer to set up than to make the video! But I like it too. I need a 3D Printed Phone clamp from my bookcase in that location. I need to search for one. It is better for me too because i can talk with my hands and put up parts. I appreciate you putting up with my way. I do hope these help you see what the parts are and how they work. I test fit a modified Ash Pan to an Atlantic and it looked pretty darn good. Stay Cool, D

I rotated it too.

You are the first to acknowledge the files are now in the wild. I had thought if i got to 1,000 subscribers I should start sharing as I am unable to really make production runs for buyers. I tried to find a dealer to help but no interest. So with help from a few good people i was able to complete enough to make a stand for Flyer and S in general. It was a bonus for me to learn PreWar Flyer was very compatible with most of my stuff. Mywork can enhance not only FLyer S but Flyer O as well and that felt really good. So in my first 5 engines with all th NGS tricks will include at least 1 Prewar O engine. Actually I have three to work on and publish. But I see most of the stuff will actually bolt on and run as is. My nice big push is to create a standardized Chassis assembly in various axle arrangements as a Ready to Run Kit for those that want to build new unique trains. I will get to a Diesel Motorized chassis soon and a duplex chassis setup too. I want to see the first run of unique new engines running of the NGS standard Chassis maybe hold a contest and prizes for engine builds. Then I know I have completed my goal for AC Gilberts efforts. I was too young to be his son, but I could have been his Grandson and in that frame of mind I want to continue Flyer trains well into the future leveraging the new hobby based tech such as 3D Printing, Mini CNC Mills and Internet of Things. To open up a platform folks can use to build their dream engines and have fun. I hope you have an engine in mind you want to build. I sure do. Dennis

DIY, Dremel With Small X & Y table, 3D Printed parts to add Stepper motors, Open Source Code for CNC and a Neat App that runs it all off a PC. Took me a while to get all the right parts, Source my You Tuybe channel for Mini Mill I have several Videos about how to do it. It ain't Perfect but I am only machine model train parts so it fine for me needs, so far. D

@@DennisMurphey Thanks for that

Search Thingiverse for Dremel CNC MIll Conversions and X & Y table CNC Conversions. If your serious, i can send the links but I think i did that in my Videos of the construction. Good Luck. D

I am familiar with the dime trick and I have several around my Shop. I think I can get this figured out and back on track. Thank You for watching, D

I have a hudson but it looked too long, I will check it again. Thanks. D

I will get one complete set so you can see how it fits together, Thanks, D

No worries, I had a Deal I will make one of the Pick up Wires for you to model, then you make the other 3 and assemble the trucks. I will also assemble i set of wheels and axle for you to model the rest. How about that. You will have to assemble but you will have one done to reference, How does that suit you? D

Not to worry old fool, We are fine. D