Відео

wtf lol

So basically from the light bar wiring the negative is going to the plug wire and the positive is going to chassis ground ?

Hi mate, I did pretty much everything in your video but now I'm getting a BLIS and cross traffic alert alarm popping up all the time? Any suggestions?

Good video. I am setting one up in my boat the hinges are a great idea I am going to do that for sure. The 2 red bus bar terminal blocks on the inside fit a mega fuse for the battery supply.

I've run into the same chicanery with buying a set of cables here in Peru. Absolute deception. Packaging said 400 amp., but as with your estimate I'd say more like 20 amp. Just hopeless. We buy these things to depend upon in an emergency, yet some Ch*nese turkeys are quite happy to rip us off and leave us stranded.

Awesome video. Got a part number for the diode?

Work on navara pro4x 2024

Lovely Ep and setup. I wonder why the customer did not run a seperate Mppt solar Controller with a bigger solar panel, it gives the setup back up. as I Am not a fan of all in one setups for going bush,

Good to see you again!

Hi. Thanks for the helpful video. Can you pls share the link with me for the part. Cheers

Thank you, for a very clear presentation, from Victoria BC Canada, my Dometic CFX 50w is awaiting parts from my local Dometic RV shop. They quote $112. 00 CDN for the thermistor. My unit was running continuously since there was no feed back that it reached set temperature of 2C. George

Great video, thanks. Are you by any chance located in Melbourne?

Hi mate great Video, can you advise the specification on the Diode?

Awesome thank you! I have a 250Amp smart alternator in my V6 Ranger, my question is I have two DC-DC controllers (40Amp & 50Amp)in my Caravan, 40 charges my existing Caravan System the 50 will charge my Big Lithium for the inverter. Can I run two appropriate size cables to feed both? any suggestions or advise? Also can I just run the two + red cables and use - to the chassis earths as you appear to have done ? Many thanks love your work!

Hi, I've just fitted one of these to my battery box with a 100ah LFP. I currently have power + wired to the off side of the main isolating switch. Just wondering if it's worth proving a 12v source to keep the display on, as I mainly use it when going away. I'm using it to run my CF35 Waeco. Your vide was most helpful, cheers from the Great Southern...

I'll never buy anything with ouch (pouch) cells.

Thanks for the video. I had seen several other similar videos but I could not reach the holding clips , so I decided to cut the old thermister out with a utility knife. I still could not insert the thermister probe until I took the bottom off as you showed so I could move the compressor control box. I saw a couple questions about the error message. My cooler gave me an error message but it was the Dometic app on my phone that told me that the thermostat was defective. I found a thermostat on eBay but it is not Dometic. The cord is about 6 feet long but it is working. It was only about $7. It was hard to find, so I bought 2.

Using a 9v for power was pretty slick. Every other one I've seen uses DIY 18650 batteries or takes power from the source being tested.

Hello, great video ! May I please where you got the Anderson mounting plate that fits the ford wildtrak?

Thanks for the video. What was the original problem?

Great vid, thanks so much mate, this saved me a lot of time

Im having the same issue on my sub tank. All my wiring is good. What is the issue with the dash cluster?

How much do you charge to replace the thermistor?

volume is very low brother

Very helpful. I watched this and fixed my Dometic 🎉

Wont work on my 2020 zst

Thanks mate 👍🏼

Hi there, is that white wire from original earth pin 86 tap on switch earth ? and how about highbeam postivive and negative? just tap in original Kings harness high beam plug +to + ,-to-? Thanks

thanks for the vid helped heaps

Thanks for the video! Do you know if there is a way to adjust the low beam? To say it's inadequate is an understatement... bloody appalling.

Have a Dometic CFX35. This was very helpful! I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy a screwdriver extender in order to get the screws out that held the p-clamps. Then I had a hard time figuring out whether the plate with the single screw goes in front of the to or behind the part we had to move out of the way to access the p-clamps.😤 Accidentally put one of the 14 little screws into a wrong home in the underside of the fridge and couldn’t get it out, co one hole was left without its original screw.🙄. And I was left with a small flat washer left over..(?). But it runs, and it turned itself off when it reached the set temperature.Yay for that! Thanks for including taking the cover off the control board, so we could see where the plug-in was supposed to go!!

absolute legend!

I have a cfx40 With err2 Code is there also the thermistor damaged?

Awesome! Thanks for sharing mate

What a nice video you have made. It saved me a lot of time determining which fuse assigned to the radio.

Is this for the charging stations f the house battery as well?

Hi mate just wondering where you mounted you GME radio unit? I've removed the glovebox and everywhere looks full, no room? Cheers Rob

No body in Australia will buy a DCS battery now they want to sue Stephan Fischer over his honest reviews.

Thanks for the video. Those P clip screws are a nightmare to get back in. I nearly used a hammer. What error code did you get? Was it “Err1”?

Bloody awesome mate, I'll be tackling this job in a couple weeks, this will definitely save a lot of heart aches 👌

I just changed mine,, but I just disconnected the old thermostat and ran the new one next to the old wires

how did you remove the plastic cover for the rubber grommet on the firewall i undid the bolts and the plastic cover isnt moving

Hi Matt, Just wondering how you got the SOC Bar Graph to show actual battery left, I have wired one of these as per the instructions but the bar graph doesn't move, even though my battery is 62% it shows 100% on the graph. I don't suppose you could put up some instructions on what you did. Much appreciated, keep up the great work.

Change that start balance voltage to 3.45 anything lower unbalances your battery because its playing the voltage game and does not correlate to amp hours in the battery due to the flat charge curve

The JK BMS app shows each balance lead resistance value so its a great way to show people that YES trimming the balance leads does in fact affect the resistance of wire....now the thing is with passive balancing (usually around 100mA on the 50A or 100A BMS's) you have so little current going through the wire that even with 22AWG it shouldn't change the voltage TOO much...but it will slightly affect your attempts to balance if you have one or two full length balance leads and one or two very short ones. The long ones are going to show more voltage drop when the balancer is activated so they will charge higher than the short wires.

The cost difference between EVE LF100/LF105's vs LF280K/LF304 is just so small that it doesn't make sense to buy the smaller cells. Not sure what the price is on the newest MB30 and MB31 (actual capacity for EV Grade A cells is like 320Ah and 330Ah respectively but nominal capacity is 306Ah and 314Ah IIRC). Grade A EV cells should yield a few percent over the nominal rating during a 0.2C discharge so the 280K's are yielding 300'ish all day and the 304's are yielding 320'ish all day. Last I checked the 100/105's were $55 and 280's were $75-$80 with the 304's coming in at a few dollars more. Triple the capacity for about 50% more? Just a no brainer unless space is absolutely the biggest hurdle....in which case why settle for such....mediocre prismatic cells? Get some higher discharge cells...quite a few options that will do 3C continuous and 5C burst. If you step it down to 20Ah cylindrical cells (or even a few prismatic and a bunch of pouch) you can get 10C cells. Currently the hottest thing in the BatteryHookup/Jehu Garcia world (or any used cells really) is the LEV60F cells. Dirt cheap from BH at $30 each. 74Ah and capable of 5C continuous....Jehu was pushing them at 8C and they were holding 12V with a 600A load. I guess BMW used to use them and they are new old stock, not used. The 4 I've purchased got capacity tested at 50A (so like...0.66C figured I'd give them a hard discharge since they are power cells) and I pulled 72Ah from each one. Internal resistance is about 0.40mR per cell on the RC3563....I know the YR meters tend to give a lower number but their manual does flat out say that it can't be relied upon for measurements below 0.3mR and under 0.5mR or 1mR you need to have the ZR function on. So you could build a 148Ah battery capable of pushing out 1000A technically for $240+shipping on the cells...lets call it $300 USD. Then $50 for a BMS and another $100 for various other parts depending on how you want to build it. Jehu does sell aluminum plates that are meant to keep these cells compressed which is essential for high discharge applications.

Hi Matt, Love your videos and connected a meter like the one you have to my battery box to keep track of useage on my 120AH LiFePo4 battery. I'm a little perplexed as my SOC bar meter doesn't go down like your one didn't. Could you please share what you did to rectify this so it worked in Part 2 Freezer test. Cheers, thanks and keep up the good work.

How much paste and how far down do you re install ?

Whats the fridge capacity in watts

Thanks so much! I purchased the part and followed your instructions. Took 30 minutes and it was done. Fridge works perfectly now.