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What happened to the special tool used to find the center of the rafters?

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Cool

I do have a honda eu7000is and a xw-pro inverter. So which wires do the orange and black and white wires go to on the ags?

I've been in the solar industry for 25 years and when I had my business, I did hundreds and hundreds of rooftop installations and was initially trained by a roofer. 15 years later I have had absolutely zero leaks. It's not rocket science, it's called proper training and an ethic of good workmanship. Something that is sadly missing with many solar contractors these days.

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Absolutely correct when you talk about using proper flashed attachments (7:30) I've tried many different "PucK" style mounts, they are always the ones I've had issues with. If you're putting solar on a roof, use the flashing style mounts.

I found this video to be extremely well done. I learned quite a bit. The one question I have, which maybe you have an idea about is would there be any temperature difference between a roof mounted, as in the video and a ground mount. My thought is it's possible that if a panel is roof mounted, and off the surface of the roof by a few inches, the air behind the panel may increase slightly and add allow the panels themselves to reach a slightly higher surface temp than it would on a ground mount, which would presumably have a lot of open space and the air below the panel would stay fairly constant to the ambient temp outside.

Me thinks roofer needs to be part of the fastener process to jget dead center of rafter. Its like a swiss cheese roof now.

Sounds very CANADIAN they way he speaks... I bet I'm right

Thats a better bracket and flashing then what the solar guys used on my roof

Raysolar, why don't you use the roof flashing that has the 3" standoff made to it, with the 3" screw on watertight standoff that covers the rafter bolt, that you mount the rail to. No RTV sealant needed and it cannot leak ever

What brand flashing did you use?

This is a very good movie. There are always some assholes Don’t know anything, but they know everything better. It’s more important to make an extra hole to find the center then have her Hurrican takeoff all the solar panels. And one little extra holes can be siliconed And never leak.

They have new equipment which can be direct to deck. No flashings

Very well explained....Thank you.

I would love to see the engineering testing done on these mounts. They look like they would be very waterproof except they would have a weakness for driving rain. I would like to know if they can stand up to Florida wind.

Don’t you want to put in 2 lag screws to properly attach the hardware. 1 is a pivot, 2 is a line and a lock

I don't know why you want to hack your panels with that street brush. I never have to do that. when the panel starts generating power, it causes the ice and snow to melt. I have found that even a thick layer of snow shuts off the power supply almost completely, even though the voltage has risen to the level required by the charge controller. That thin layer of snow and ice - which does not come off by brushing - does not, in my experience, reduce the available power at all. I have done it by scraping all the ice stuck to the glass and the snow on its surface with a Japanese leaf from the entire area of ​​the panel without scratching the glass. But when I look at the Victron's Power curve, I see no difference in wattage before and after de-icing. So the ice and the one-flake-thick layer of snow on top of it doesn't reduce the yield. Whatever the real explanation of the phenomenon, I have found in my numerous tests every time that removing the ice and one layer of snow stuck to it does not increase the yield at all. As long as the panel produces power, it heats up even in freezing temperatures and melts the ice on its own - as long as the output can start. Another interesting phenomenon is that the return on a slightly cloudy winter day is just as good as on a clear winter day. This is due to the fact that on a slightly cloudy day the sunlight does not heat up the panel as it does on a sunny day. As the panels heat up, their yield decreases, so a lightly cloudy day is just as good as a completely cloudless winter day.

Wow way harder than it needed to be.

I love the leaf blower indea would work better on an actual mount for the panels

The hole you made to hit the rafter and the hole you made to miss the rafter are the only two you need to know center or close enough anyway. At the end of the job that’s a lot of unnecessary holes if you add up all the third holes. Flashing covering them or not. It’s just best practice, fewer holes the better and less chances for a leak

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An interesting thing is that silicon photovoltaic cells are actually infrared LEDs when current runs through then backwards. So that could provide a lot of heat to naturally dethaw solar modules without any additional hardware. However, the blocking diodes installed in panels won't allow reverse current unfortunately. However, I figure it might not cost too much more for the factory to add a thermal heater pad (or two) on the back of each solar module. If using microinverters array, there is already a ready supply of the home's own mains 60Hz 240VAC power up there to hook these up to using the same MC4 connectors on the home run cable. Solar module prices are dropping rapidly so there will arrive a price point to have this heating technology as on option for snowy winter climates like Canada -- it could just be '-W" winter sub-model of any module. It would cost *not* too much more in labor either, as its just as simple as plugging an extra connection from the heaters to the microinverter. The microinverters contain both the 240VAC power (from the home) as well as the logic to operate the heaters at the most optimal times.

I find that lifting the shingles first with the flat bar then cutting your shingles with large scissors takes about half the time. In my opinion you should dress those nail holes you pulled out with roof mastic and the entire bottom of the metal flashing under the shingles with mastic as well. Very clean electric work, great demonstration. Thank you.

How much snow would accumulate on such a steep tilt if not removed frequently? I am attempting to estimate worst case snow loads but this difficult to calculate so empirical data would be useful if I can find it.

I live where theres a couple months with up to -30f i was curious if the suns heat was enough to melt snow in that kind of cold?

Fun to watch a master.

Where do you buy the solar flashing ?

I’m surprised you don’t have more subscribers

Great video 🎉

Will this work for the XW Pro 6548 model? Very informative video

Hi ...Please make a similar video this year as well...with thick snow,... thanks

hey where do i by the flashing

I get this on my panels on my house all the time. when snow is more then 1 inch deep, I get out my snow rake[ has styrofoam head ] to keep form damaging panels . Its really hairy when I get 6 to 8 inches, and it all flies down on top of me when I break lower level panels free

How far back are the PV panels from the 2 foot overhang ? Thank you for the videos.

thank you for this video. I have a 10 awg wire going into one of these fuses, however even with a (yellow) 10awg ferrule the wire pops out easily despite the screw being tighten quite well. Any suggestions? Can I crimp a larger ferrule over the 10awg ferrule and screw that into the fuse?

People are so stupid you had to show how to use a broom? Really

Perhaps a leaf blower would get the light snow off

You need a new job

Kudos to you for building a solar system in such an inhospitable climate. I live on Maui and I'm building a 16.5 kW system to go completely offline. But even now on December 22nd, we will get 4.5 hours of usable sunlight ( over 1,000 watts per meter squared). Do you get enough wind to supplement in the winter?

Note to self: Do NOT put solar panels on the roof of a building in Canada, unless it's an A-Frame with one side facing south! I couldn't imagine living that far north and having solar panels that can't be adjusted seasonally.

good video thank you

so teure sachen. mach das doch ordentlich ohne kratzer bitte.

I have used de-icer spray to.

If i am using one of the diagram with the relay, what do i use to activate the relay. The AGS or the Inverter Axillary?

Hey soladeck you guys rock. It’s true your soladeck roof box has proven its greatness. Here in N California we standardized this great box (*with incorporated roof flashing). ....for most asphalt shingle installations and some flat tile( with secondary flashing underneath). But seriously your product is nearly perfect. Multiple hundreds installed. 0h yah.....Please move the interior upper romex concentric knockouts down about 1/4”.

Top of pole mount is how every solar powered home in north Idaho I've seen is done. Reason are we don't like snow removal chores. With your solar panels tipoff polemoint and have the bottom 6 feet off the ground when panelsare set to winter angle of 65°. At this far north it maximizes solar power production and mire importantly snow doesn't really stick to them at this steep a angle. I only have to do snow solar panel chores if I get 6 feet of standing snow on the ground most years I don't. Solar powered since 1983 40 years teaches you things.

I’m in Chicago in the US for this time of year for my ground mounted panels The optimal angle is 61° south slightly west.

Lololol my locals sold me magnum energy products and sold ne the generator they could never get it to work. Out 20k time to replace the magnum garbage. I believe I'm going with a schneider swpro probably 2 of them, then replace my generator a honda em5000sx. Probably a propane converter editor eu7000