Відео

Pre flipping the magnet: No Post flipping the magnet: Also no Is this a problem you are having? I Highly recommend you get the "Big Green Book". You can find it online. They have trouble shooting guides that you can work though to fix the problem

Topdon Artidiag800 BT It has free lifetime updates and is "idiot proof". They are not a sponsor but they should be at this rate 😂 I'm glad you could understand the videos! I can get carried away with what I say in them and I always try to edit them so they are to the point!

I have since installed 2 new injectors to fix the maxed out two at the end of the video. The car runs spot on now! I'll take note of that! I am usually someone that likes to play the ebay lottery!

A good write up with some good advice. I'll award you an A in Int 2 English for this write up!

Well. It's funny you say this as I'm on the fence. For starters the D2 engine has one up over the other c30 dRIVE engine as it dosen't have the stupid emission stuff that breaks. The D2 has a Dry DPF so that's one up for it. This Volvo has been in the family for a while! We have had it since 50k miles and it is now on 120k. The car has been pretty dam reliable up until recently when an injector went. As you can see from the videos I've had to do other bits of work to it. From memory the car has needed a few injectors before but these engines are known for wanting them. Apart from a weird issue with the fuse box that is under the passengers side of the dash that can be kicked easily the car hasn't let us down. And also the PCV valves leaking oil into the intakes which seems to be an issue for this engine and it's sister engines (1.6 HDI). It has put me off modern diesels. For any diesel engine it's not uncommon for a fuel pump or injector to go. It just seems to be something that diesel people put up with. I was always a petrol man especially when diesel these days are that chocked up with EGR's and DPFs, they just end up getting the same MPG as an petrol. Further note is that I believe that modern diesels need better service maintains. EGR's and Injectors would benefit loads If they got a deep cleaned out on an interval basic. This is my opinion. I hope you like my essay on the modern diesel engine. Looking forward to me A in Int 1 English.

@@DriveShifty thank you. I own a d3 s60 and has never let me down. But looking at one of these d2 2012 with 100k miles. Or a BMW 118d with 100k miles. I've owned a 320d years ago no issues. So I'm torn between one of these 2012 d2 or 2011 118d. I am diesel man to be fair. I know about n47 engine issue. But seem to read more bad things about these d2 volvo. Or do I try a 2013 volvo 1.8l petrol s40? I don't mind highway drive to clean dpf once a week so this no problem. I've cleaned the egr and intake pipe of my d3 2 years ago. Are these d2 engines hard to work on. No turbo issue? Or expect high mechanic costs with d2? The 118d seems less problematic as only really timing chain problem which only affects some. Do you think the d2 is not powerful enough for weight of the car causing these problems injectors etc? Turbo etc? The 118d is 4k$ the d2 is 5k$. I'm in a tough position. The d2 is in lovely conditions but so is 118d. So now with your d2 if you drove it less heavy would it last longer? I appreciate your insight. Maybe these d2 fail over 100k mile?

@@DriveShifty maybe if I went with the d2 get the egr system clean asap?

@@rapfactor1 I can't compare it to the D3. Never had any experience with them. I have a family member with a X1 118D xdrive. Quite like it to be fair. Lot's of stupid issue with it like every bmw. Brake pad wear sensors and in my option weak control arm bushes. I have a 46 325ti and I've upgraded them to poly. Engine wise it seems to be pretty good. A lot better to drive than the volvo. The volvo accelerator pedal dose the thinking for you which is bad when your used to NA petrols get up and go out of a junction. I've had it many of a time leaving a junction and a car appears me behind me coming up fast. I slam the accelerator pedal and it thinks about it for a minute. The BMW is more instant. I think a map on the volvo would make it a better driving car that is something that really gets me about it! The X1 is way worse on fuel but it is a xdrive. For the D2 and turbo I do feel as if this is something that will need changed at some point. It's wear and tear in my eyes. Bearing and seals. Parts for the volvo is way cheaper than the bmw. Because the volvo share a lot of parts with different car makes (It is a mk2 fouse at the end of the day which is also a madza 3). As for the petrol volvos I've only heard that the 1.6 petrols are not great. Can't really comment on them. I'll sum it all up as I'll be typing all night 😂The volvo (D2) has been a great car for us. We haven't had to do much work to it the hole time we have owned it. It's quite and puts up with us and the way we drive. I feel as if it is let down by a lot of modern diesel issues and a lot could be solved with a re map. I don't think if we drove it any softer it would or wouldn't last longer. If you are a techy person get a decent code reader and learn everything you can about them. It dosen't hurt to be on to. If your buying any car that is 100k plus mileage anything can go wrong with it. Unless it's a petrol toyota yaris. They just seem to rust 😂 (Writer is biased when it comes to yaris) I have a friend with a D2 C30 and the high pressure fuel pump has failed. Number of reason as to why it could have failed but I think it's just down to how it has been treated. I don't think there is any blinding issues with them (As in there isn't a big things like it having a wet belt that everyone avoids them for). It has plenty of power if it's running right. (It had two maxed out injectors that have now been replaced). They do seem to like to kill an injector but I do put that down to being a diesel thing. I hope I get another A for this essay. I hope this answers some questions. Also sorry for any typos. I'm getting tired right now! xD

@@DriveShifty thank you for the insight. Do you change the injector yourself? Is the turbo something you plan to do? I've done plenty research and reading on these d2. The car im.oooking at is woman driver. Has no advisories on mot. And no fault comes when scanned and excellent condition. I only plan to own it a few years as recently moved to uk. So if I got another 20k miles out of it would be good enough. Will you keep the d2 and persevere? I've subbed to your channel. What mpg are you getting from this d2? I do like longer trips is why diesel doesn't bother me. I need to make a decision in next few days so not easy seat for me. Is the c30 comfy on road and cabin experience? Either way you gained a new sub. Injector don't bother me if its easy to do. Has your car had cam belt water pump done or at 150k mile

Ah man that sucks! Yeah I've had them needle bearing come apart a few times! They are a nightmare. I'm unsure of what bit you are referring to but if it's getting the rollers back into the housing as in 11:37. They only like to go in if all of them are at the right angle. If you push a little bit of pressure on to them and the give the bearing a little wiggle it will slip right in. You do not force them in. If that's not the part you are asking about then please elaborate. Even put a timestamp if you see it in the video!

Yeah that's the bit, so just need to be a bit adjusty with the bearings as the shaft is pushing in.

Yeah! Think of it as they need to run along there rails. If they don't go in straight then they are not gonna go in. Sorry that you are having to decode my ramblings 😅

@@DriveShifty got it in... After the pins fell out again. Did you replace the drive shaft bolt?

@@Chris-lg1qb Ah no! At least it's in now! They are meant to be replaced everything but I have reused mine a few times. Best bet it to check the threads if they are stretching. It's one of those

27mm. I did say it kinda quick in the video

@@DriveShiftythank you, to be honest I just about understood the accent let alone even realised u said 27mm 😅

@Whsky-dl6pl I do mumble a bit. If the subtitles was easy to do I would sub all my videos but it's not a good system to work with

@@Whsky-dl6pl If youtube improve there sub titles system I'll be right on it! For now I'll do my best to hold back on the scotish xD

@@DriveShifty all good! I managed to do the oil change today with no issue!

Of all the days you could have commented on this topic. I've just put two more rebuilt injectors in! Tried a load of other things and they didn't work. Old injectors where ticking there heads off as well. Will be doing an update video on it soon. I do like your idea of sticking them in a ultrasonic cleaner. I feel as if this might have save one of them!

​@@DriveShifty Also from what I know those injectors need to be both programmed and adapted. You need to write that code that is written on it to ECU. Usually the official workshop can do it but it can cost too much. Buying some dice and getting vida is a bit tricky, but I have solved it by buying j2534 converter and vdash (bought the converter from d5t for like 150eur, and then paid in vdash like 20eur for the injector programming procedure

@@Daniel-du4um I've seen on some of the fourms people that couldn't get there cars to learn their new injectors and having to go to a dealership in the end. I read a lot of people just sticking in injectors and not even programming them! Haven't seen anyone saying they need both done. By the looks of it the rapid adapt seems to be fine. The car with it's two more injectors is pretty happy now! The learning adapting seems to always be working away learning in the back ground. Probably to compensate for wear over time and driving style. I know from the yaris's they do a similar thing along with other cars.

No drone! It's not mega loud for it to drone really

I did say this on the video. Us Tool Pro Bolt extractor (Make sure it's the kind that can go straight on to a 3/8 ratchet) and a standard M6x1 bolt

It's just the standard one out of a PH2 T Spirit!

*Crunch!*

Glad it could help!

You are welcome! Glad the video helped!

I was in a similar position to you! In my eyes a lot of these new diesels should have harsher servers that include stuff like cleaning the EGR valve. I'm glad this video can help!

Is that the one in the door? They are there own weird thing. You need the adaptor for the doors!

@@DriveShifty ok! thanx)

@@DriveShifty I did that! (+pioneer radio) Now I have great sound! Thank you again!)

@@emigrant4life That's what I like to hear! Good job!

It was in the description on the website guide I followed. Lip seal 20 x 10 x 7mm - TC 20 10 7 2. I'll make it stand out a bit more in the description. I've only realised that it wasn't obvious

Aye good cars

It's a load of different brands. Old stuff as well. It will all be discontinued. Look for some speakers with RMS that match your headunit or Amp output! The Max power of a speaker is marketing stuff. RMS is what they like to sit at all day everyday

I did read that some of the aftermarket gaskets were bad. Wouldn't have though blue print but that's 2 for 2! The camshaft and a load of other seals back in 2020. The car hasn't done many miles since so fingers crosses they hold! That's good to know! Half the bother with this car is getting to everywhere. Easier when they are outside of them! The reason I make the videos is that I know that my suffering is someone solution xD

Don't flip the magnet on it xD

In the description "What do you need to buy? Speakers 100mm (Dash Speaker Size) Toyota Yaris Door Speaker Adpators and Speakers that fit them (Commonly 165mm)"

Take it the car still drive okay. No mad misfires or struggling to start? Valve covers and timing chain covers are bad for leaking on these engines. The valve cover isn't leaking loads of oil into the spark plugs and coils, giving them a bad spark? Can you have a look at your fuel trims with your scanner? They might point you towards a Vac leak. Look for Vac lines with tears or cracks. You could even have a exhaust leak before the O2 sensor. Air getting in there can give the O2 a false reading. You would be able to hear it fizzing or ticking if it was.

@@DriveShifty Tnx for your interest in this matter 🙂 Well, last I did few days ago was: 1. Poruing Liqui Moly cleaner into the throttle body; 2. Cleaning oily sparks and tightening them a bit more and cleaning spark plug wells from oil; 3. Pouring into the tank 325ml of Wynns cat and O2 cleaner into the aprx.35l of gasoline; 4. Driving around 40km with 3000-3.500 rpm on the highway after pouring the cat cleaner into the tank; 5. I forgot to disconnect the battery to "restart" the ECU so I did that later; 6. Inspecting spark plugs again after 100km of driving and all of 4 were completely dry and clean ; 7. Cleaning the PCV valve; 8. I found one rubber hose that goes into some part where throttle body is (I think) and it had a crack right on the root, cut that and put it again; 9. So after aprx. 120km (including 45km highway), fuel consumption is around 7.4l/100km and it has much better acceleration; 10. Check engine light is ON again P0420 cat.below treshhold bank1; 11. I did look the gasket of the 4-pipe exaust that goes feom the engine, it looks like it has a newer gasket (I cannot say since I bought the car 2 months ago); 12. There was a buzzing noise on the muffler from the start when doing around 2500rpms, seller did not know why, I do not know why; 13. Smell of the exaust fumes are not good, but there is no color; 14. Start and everything else is great; 15. I do hear some strange irregular sparking -like sound from the engine bay (seems like) when driving near the lane divider (I can hear that sound easier then); could be a small nail in the rear left tyre I found; 16. Least but not last- I will change valve cover gaskets in a few days and try to install 02 de-fouler 90° for the donwstream sensor; where I live, there are no problems yet with gas fumes when inspecting the car; 17. I am carrefully monitoring fuel consumption. I really like the car. I bought this Yaris for my sister since I am driving old Citroen C4 1.6hdi and I never had this issues with it. Thank you again for asking and kind answers. Sorry for my grammar, I speak totally different language 🙂

@@mrgreenfull3897 Sounds like you have had an initial issues of that vac leak and then you have an unrelated issues from the cat. The cat being below it effective threshold is calculated by the two O2 sensors. You can do an easy test with a temperature gun to see if the cat is still working right. Don't worry about your grammar! It's perfectly fine!

Thank you!

Yeah this will help! I do not know that is the correct voltage to apply to it though. Don't want folk frying there solenoids

Still feels like a headliner. It hasn't dried it and made it flakey

Cheer man! Hope it helped!

This comment puzzles me

Hard to put a price on it. You have to really cut in to it to see what it's hiding. Some people would only repair the bits you can see to get it through an MOT. I'm not a massive fan of that as it's a structural point. What I can say is that it took me about 16 hours to cut out, make and weld in new metal for just one side. That's without sealing and painting. Best advice I can give you is to take it to someone who only welds on cars and has the tool to properly bend and cut metal. I've seen qualified welders that are used to welding clean metal make an absolute arse out of car welding!

Sorry I don't know anything about them

dose it have CVT transmission?

@@Basaham1 yes is the S model

@@theblukatlife Im sorry, i watched the video in your channel,and it's not what i was thinking,i was thinking of rattling sound when accelerate it's in most car with CVT transmission especially in very hot weather and AC on the fix is useing premium fuel, or octane booster. something like this: ua-cam.com/video/H00NDMSoHZw/v-deo.htmlsi=ZhYrjFYFa8BN18du

@@theblukatlife Im sorry, i watched the video in your channel,and it's not what i was thinking,i was thinking of rattling sound when accelerate it's in most car with CVT transmission especially in very hot weather and AC on the fix is useing premium fuel, or octane booster.

Glad to hear! Good on you for having a go as well. My mates just moved there!

In city it's kinda normal, you can do a little bit better if you try, maybe 7.5, I get 7.3 with no AC if I really try, and outside the city I get maybe like 5.5. Also I have a custom exhaust and in city when I'm having fun I get like 12-13 L/100km :))))

@@ItsGhostyV2 Thanks for your reply. I don't drive in the city xD

Yeah, mine 1.0 2000. with AC 9-10l/100km in hard urban slow driving, like a tank !

I think you are asking about the pcv valve? It's not a sensor

Thanks​@@DriveShifty

​@grankogranko9825 you can clean it easy..

Ah man I feel you pain! They just need that first snap. They are a really good tool the bolt extractors! Well worth there money. Just get one thats like in the video that can go on to a 3/8 ratchet. I have ones that you have to use with sockets and they are no way near as good! Good luck when you do get back to it!

Dose it do it when it's cold or wet? And what all have to tried? I've not looked into it much further. I've been busy with out stuff

They are discontinued but their will be a more up to date version. Recommend watching my install guild as you need adaptors for the doors

@@DriveShifty thanks for the reply. Do you think it's better to upgrade the side doors or dash speakers first?

I did doors first. You will need a good head unit to really take advantage of them

Starlet SR wheels. You have to get them second hand

I would do the close captions for my videos if it wasn't a massive pain to work with. I've done it for a few of them and its a buggy mess. If you look at it from my view UA-cam wants me to keep people's attention spans on the video. If I put it all into the comments or the description then there would be no reason to watch the video 😅

@@DriveShifty aye but I did watch the whole video I just wanna know the details of the mods man

It must get the fuel through! My fear would be air getting trapped at the injectors and causing an air lock

No problem! Thanks for watching!

Are you burning oil? My catch can only catches a small bit of oil. There isn't that much that goes through it. I put it on mostly to keep the intake cleaned as I've had it all off to clean it before. If there is a lot of oil going through the breather then I would be looking at piston rings and the boars being worn. If the breather is looking good then I would look at valve seals. This is if it's burning oil

Yes that is a catch can! If you follow the line from my catch can it just goes down on to the valve cover from there. @ 3:21 if you look at spark plug 4 at the far end of the camera you can see the metal pipe sticking up. That it there! An even better view of it at 6:34. You will need to block it off from the other end if you are going to run a catch can which goes on to the throttle body. Currently making a video of cleaning the ICV which is on the throttle body xD

Love to hear this!

I'm quite relaxed about it. I do it about 20-30k miles. They are the first thing you should replace if you are having power issues as they are cheap to replace and are most of the time the culprit!

@DriveShifty Thanks for the reply but I'm a noob with cars. I just bought a C30 1.6 diesel. I love it, its only the base model that even has the steel alloys lol 😆 Have no idea how to know if there are power issues. One thing I did notice is my speedo was not the same reading as Google maps was saying I was doing. Wonder if that's a problem 🤔

Ah that's fine! You are out and learning. Not everything will make sense now but you just have to keep learning. You will soon get it! Yes Speedos often read slightly different than GPS and even those signs. Manufactures often make them read a bit fast so that you think your going faster than you are. Always better if your driving slower in a crash!

As my good friend shaggy once said, "wasn't me"