Відео

Type UBG - the U-Die version of BG or BG Nose.

@@jacobyoung3160 Yes the Hubble primary elbow spec sheet for a #2 primary cable says for a Burndy (hydraulic) crimper use die U234, but that die is actually for a 1/0 aluminum crimp. I put a 1/0 aluminum crimp next to the elbow probe crimp and they are almost identical in size, I put a call into Hubble tec support phone vm, just waiting for a return call back

Typically for 200A elbow #6-2/0, U243, UBG, or U25ART. Reference Cooper Power Systems Crimp Chart S500-001-1

Yeah, the brass slide is really handy for measuring interior depths of connectors that are of a smaller diameter than of the width of rule itself.

The rear is slightly taller while unloaded. When passengers or cargo is loaded and the springs are under tension, the cart levels out.

Do you even sand the insulation? I don't do that, but a lot of guys who I know sand the insulation. I only do it if I accidentally nick it or something

@@maxschil9438 it depends on the bond between the insulation and the semicon. Sometimes it comes off and leaves no residual semicon, other times you can see the black on the insulation and lots of sanding to remove all the semicon. You should never nick the semicon, if you do you are using the wrong tool or too much force. Always a good idea to strip a piece of scrap of a new cable type to set depth of cut and to see how it peels.

You can see the list of parts in the video description

Hey bud. Check out the videos description, it has all the parts I used in the build

I used sticky-back zip ties mounts. I cleaned each spot with alcohol and I think I applied a bit of gorilla glue or super glue or something like that. The mounts have made it without failure for the most part. I do have a section behind the right rear where one mount has failed - probably because of the wheel splash… so some self tappers through the ty-wrap mounts may be the way to go.

@@jacobyoung3160 hey man, thanks for the quick response from a video posted 2 years ago. I appreciate it. I'll definitely try your technique 👍🏻

It all depends on what the engineer specifies for each job. The key to being a good splicer is being able to be versatile enough to be able to install all types of MV applications. Some installs for the utility may be Alum JCN URD type cable, some installs for some federal customers may be CU EPR tape shield - and as a qualified MV Splicer, we need to be able to adapt to those different types of applications.

@@jacobyoung3160 was just stating that we don’t use those at my company, so I am unfamiliar with that. Not arguing for or against you, just saying.

Check out my 35kv Dead break elbow install - some pretty large Concentric Neutral cables focusing on grounding and bonding of the cables

Thanks for the insight - you are correct. I am having issues with that motor mount and that snubber mount - the motor angle vs the mount is a bit too extreme for the stock placement to work, and flipping the angle bracket around didn’t quite fix the issue.

Having same issue with the motor mount I completely took the bracket off probably not good on it looking forward to see what you come up with

Literally like an inch to spare haha

The cart is a 2001

I have a list of all the parts in the description

Older Club Cars are either a DS or a Precedent. If you mean you tag starts with an AG then that is a DS which is the same in the video. www.performancepluscarts.com/club-car-year-guide/

Hey - thank you! I didn’t do anything above and beyond to fill any gaps or anything, you really can’t notice it unless you point it out. They look like they’re supposed to be there. The headlights weren’t too bad, you will need to cut the plastic around a contour and be able to do some wiring. Good luck with your build!

The stereo is a separate unit not attached to the cart. The LEDS are hard wired, they draw a very very low current. I leave my cart on a trickle charger just to be safe

@@jacobyoung3160 By a separate unit you mean another battery I'm guessing? Sorry I just inherited a stock 09' DS club car and dont know anything lol. If you use a separate unit would you happen to have a picture of what that looks like under the hood?

By separate unit, I meant the stereo is a JBL Bluetooth speaker that fits in my cup holder lol

@@jacobyoung3160 Oh lol that's what I'm doing now too. I always rented golf carts at the coast and have never had a problem with the battery draining while listening to the carts stereo all day but I never looked to see if they had extra batteries or the regular one was enough to pull this off. I guess I'll give it a try on the original battery and see what happens lol.

All Amazon parts

It was around $3000, yeah - I like it too, it grew on me

No, I don’t recall having any issues with the spindle nuts

I actually just flipped the snubber over yesterday. We will see how it works! Will see how it goes

I don’t have an exact mph, it definitely feels like I picked up some on the top end. Nothing blistering, but noticeable nonetheless.

The exterior of the elbow is at ground potential. The exterior material is a semi-conductive rubber, it must be grounded to allow static to be dispersed ground. If the elbow is grounded properly, then yes you can touch.

Thx

@@jacobyoung3160 , i agree with you 100% but it is not a good practice to bare hand any energized load break elbow or 600 amp Tbody termination.

Thanks! I actually bought the cart like that, the guy I bought it from said it was a whole new body kit.

Also, what size wheel spacer did you use?

LED’s are mounted to the frame rail and anywhere else I could attach. 1” wheel spacer on each side (2” overall)

@@jacobyoung3160 Did you spacers in the front and back? I ordered some but it loos like they are just sold in pairs.

Eloy Gonzalez Jr for that particular lift kit, yes

Christian Tejada Arias thank you, I went the tools in pretty good detail, there was an awful lot there, I would take some time and hit pause and write them down for your reference

Thanks

Look up MVA Supply in Arvada Colorado. They sell all the tools, ask for Scott Jefferson, he will get you everything you need and answer any related questions you have. They are a meduim voltage only electrical supply house. The best in the country.

Bill they are on both front and back

Jacob Young picking up a 99 electric model DS tomorrow and I would like to do the same lift and tire combo .

Bill the pre - 2000 year DS models are different products I believe, I’m sure you’re aware. The look will still be the same though. I love the stance of it with the spacers, they make a difference.

@@jacobyoung3160 Jacob , I just finished the Madjax 6 inch lift , my wheels are very similar to yours , i used 2" wheel spacers , looks awesome ! I have the whole body off for paint , Kandy fire orange over silver , hope to have that done by this w/e . I'll try to let you see it when i'm done !

Bill can’t wait to see it! I bet those 2” spacers will make it look really stanced, probably going to look sick

Ken it was a 2” aluminum wheel spacer kit - 1” per side (4) 2" (1" per side) Wheel Spacers EZ GO EZGO Club Car Golf Cart-4x4 to 4x4 1.0 - SmartPartsCo www.amazon.com/dp/B00IELPGGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HH91EbT8DBF4F

Q+qq

Chad Pope Club Car DS 1982-2003 Electric &1997-2003 Gas 6" Double A-Arm Golf Cart Lift Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B079Q874RV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vP7LEb0EB4ZCE

Jacob Young Thansk for the link. Cart looks awesome

Chad Pope thank you!