Відео

Very nice

Transformers are not to be inside the wall must be external so best to have on the finished side wall or in a box in the wall

Thanks, that's just the advice I was looking for but I would use parchment paper as suggested by the commentor below.

I'm impressed, nice job.

My kitchen floor linoleum is starting to break off in chunks. I thought it was gonna be a very slow messy process in taking it all up. Your suggestion of using an iron, and cloth was so helpful to me. I now feel very confident that I can take it up and put down a new slip proof layer. Thanks for sharing. Peace Out.

Thank you so much! Clear explanation and efficiently presented. All the best!

I am not an engineer but that is regular wood being used as a beam. I am almost sure that should have been an LVL beam to be able to support the shear load especially in the center of the beam

thank you for posting this very helpful video! i was always afraid of modifying load-bearing walls and know the cost to hire someone would be expensive. My scenario, my parents bathroom has a adjoining wall with the townhouse next to us. it was built in the 1970s in NYC. it isnt down to the studs but do you have any experience is your steps are exactly whats required?

I.m working in Singapore renovation house and demolition work can i move your company

gracias por el video, me encanto

How do you remove the stickiness from the floor?

Great work! I would have added a double stud on under the beam once it's set under the ceiling joist for reinforcement.

Thank you, even better if you have a helper . Made that look easy and able so save thousands

I hate steel and pick tiles!!!!!

Heat gun is the best way then use a adhesive remover 👍👍

Tanks Buddy!

Does the upper valve allow for two of the three to be on at the same time?

I threw my transformer in a recessed box behind the chime.

Thank you so much! I've been working for hours and was SO OVER IT. This works wonders!

Cool!

How long is the beam buddy?

Is there any chance it contained abestos?

You saved my life!!!!! Thank you from my ❤

Very helpful! Thanks

I used a heat gun to remove the tiles, but we did the whole kitchen, it was much quicker.

Thank you for sharing such clear information. 2 question: 1. What was the length of your beam? 2. What’s the blue or green stripe in your beam?

Hello very good video you are giving me hope that I will get rid of them What about the glue underneath though any tips to get the floor clean ? Will it’s all melt with the iron ?

This video is very informative! Thank you Would love to see your finished work

Nice work. Well done.

I live in a country where we build houses with solid stone walls and concrete. Seeing this video, I can fully understand why a typhoon and high winds play havoc on such houses, they are toy houses as far as I can see. Those hangers will not take any tension which on windy days then may have to ! ua-cam.com/video/vdqTfVfvnng/v-deo.htmlsi=-PRK05FKnta750Cj

My question is does it leave behind residue if so how do I do away with that without damaging the flooring underneath laminate

Your video what like the only one that helped me do this (my first time) plumbing a shower. Making a walkin shower with a rain shower head and into a 2 person sauna. Wish me luck. About to do the preasure test after i get my part for hooking up to the hot water line.

Awesome man!

I know he’s using the beam he had, but why use a double beam here? If the joists want to pull apart wouldn’t it make more sense to have the joists pulling in opposite directions on the same beam rather than two joined together?

Watching this video after spending 3 hours getting off only a few “tiles.” I hate these!

You didn't seem to mention the removal of the plug inside for 2 or 3way valve conversion

I want to do the same thing. My house is just like yours. I want to open mine from 9 feet to 14 feet. Right now they have 3 2x8 put together as the beam. What size beam should i use to open it up to 14 feet.

So, is there no insulation in the area behind the niche (outside wall)?

Nice work! Nobody realizes how much time that takes, all the prep work and necessary steps. The joist nailer is a must! 💯👍 hope you pursued your path doing remodeling as tradesman are hard to find in 2024 another note: #FJB

awesome thx

What about the sticky residue ?

2:22

Does the floor outside the shower area need to be completely level? Use self leveller outside the shower if not?

Good video except... he points to the various valves and describes his design, how the valves work but never mentions the valve type, the manufacturer, and doesn't provide any links to the valves or diverter. [sigh]

Great job. What is the make and model # of the valve and the diverter? Thank you,

FAIL - Good video showing plumbing layout but thats it. He keeps mentioning the valves and diverter but never reveals their type, model or trim numbers in the video or in the description... very disappointing. (They "appear" to be the Delta MultiChoice R10000 rough-in valve leading up to Delta R11000 Universal Diverter but thats just a guess based their physical appearance )

I'd like to do something similar but those two nails you show through the uncut joists are to prevent the roof peak from sagging down and pushing the walls out when the nails are cut out and the walls are free to pull the cut rafters apart. I'm thinking you should bolt a steel angle on each joist about 8" on either side of the beam. Then bolt the angles on one side to the angles on the other side with a piece of all-thread going thru a holes in the beam. I don't think the joist hangers are sufficient to resist pull-away tension caused by sagging gable pressure.

Thank you so much. 🙏

I need to take my iron pills because this is mouthwatering

This is not just "not code compliant," it is also quite unsafe: exposed romex in a kitchen cabinet is really dangerous. This video is misleading tons of DIY folks who are confused and deperately checking island outlet code issues on UA-cam because of the mess 2023 NEC (or the 2020 NEC, depending on where you stand I guess) created. I'd definitely take this video down. I am the last person to play "Safety Sally" and say, "get an electrician instead." But simply hoping people will check some of the comments to see your mistake is way, wayyyy too much risk-taking with naive DIY people's safety. Or re-edit it with clearly showing how you secured romex, and highlighting how no one should try running exposed romex (or any romex) without proper guidance. I'm not even starting on code issues and ambiguities pertaining to running romex in conduits (there is leeway on "using conduit as protection," but some NEC experts say that does NOT apply to running romex in kitchen islands, which again means you need to check with your city, who will decide what is "wet and damp"), so I hope you checked with an expert on what you mean by "get, that romex properly protected." If your city considers your wiring "underground," or "wet and damp," sleeving the romex in the cabinet with any type of conduit will not work, since code says no romex in conduit in those areas. The right, no headache way to do this is to have a junction box, transitioning from romex to conduit, where you pig tail and run proper gauge THHN wires in your conduit, or an approved/listed MC cable (or whatever "protected cable" your city requires within cabinets), which runs to your outlet from the junction box.