Відео

@@OLLO_TV vielen Dank für den netten Kommentar! Allerdings habe ich vor der Tour noch ein 38er Kettenblatt montiert. Die Übersetzung war ok. Da ich kein vielradler bin rechne ich mit moderatem Verschleiß... mal sehen

Sorry for the delayed answer. It's difficult to give a diagnosis from your description. As written in a former comment/reply I never use brake sensors as the TSDZ2 does torque sensing. The last motor sets I bought in Germany from enerprof - they also provide a detailled installation manual (see enerdan.awsapps.com/workdocs/index.html#/share/document/6dd8e3ac72ed5a4e347860825125ef8c0de34b0f8c70f8a11db922b915fda07c ) . Maybe this helps. Installation always worked fine. Maybe your set is damaged?

@@the_geargineer Interesting: if torque sensors turn off the motor when you stop pedaling, why does the display have 2 brake lever ports along with the throttle port.. I have decided to trash this motor system and get a bafang.. I speak bafang.. my tongsheng is a bit rusty.. it isn't worth these constant failures.. I am disabled, to break down and get stranded far from home would be bad.. I have installed 7 of the Bafang kits and never had these problems.. Thanks for the response.. and good luck with your channel. i have already looked at the manual link you sent. the manual doesn't even have a troubleshooting section and doesn't mention how to diagnose errors or component problems.. ride safely.. :)

It is very difficult to give here a general answer as this depends mainly on your weight and your fitness (i.e. how much electric support you need). Basically you can take any calculator from the internet to obtain an estimate based on your personal and bike properties. Personally (65kg body weight, 20kg weight of bike) I did a tour with 40km and 420 meters uphill and was with app. 30% capacity left.

Sorry, but it's not clear what you want to achieve. If the technique presented here does not help, I am sure you will find some solution elsewhere on youtube. Cheers.

I want to print logo and images on 35mm film To prepare slides in projector for logo projection

@@RAYANDERS-w4t glad this was useful.. thanks!

Thanks, happy that helped! There is also another video in my channel about efficient processing of the RAW-images using open source tools. Enjoy!

Thanks for the nice comment! I wish you success. The method presented here is "semi-automatic": slide change and taking picture (with remote) are done by hand but as you see quite speedy. Efficient processing is also important: here is my second video about processing the captured RAWs with open source software: ua-cam.com/video/BNpqdq_S29g/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared . Hope this helps and good luck with your project,

I used a SRAM 34T chainring (part number B004YWGV4E ). This is specified for 10-fold but works also well with a recent e-bike build based on shimano 9-fold. I usually don't bother much about the chainrings specification besides number of teeth and holes, but always use a chain matching the number of sprockets on rear wheel (maybe not entirely professional attitude :-). Thanks!

Thanks! The big chain ring has 46 teeth I believe (standard on 90s mtbs).

Thanks! I had a look at your channel and hope you will make a presentation video once your done with the tongsheng installation - it's really a great conversion kit!

Thanks mate. Appreciate your work. I have finished my build finally and now in the process of doing tests with it. What is your experience with the throttle? Mine doesn't seem to work very well. And how good is the motor on hills?

Thanks for this comment. I thought also about using the projector lens (I have even one with aperture setting) but it would need some additional lenses (makro) to get the image in the necessary size on the sensor. Furthermore it depends on how thee autofocus works (measuring sharpness oder distance ...). Regarding the "pop" you are right: but as you wrote you just have to change slides quick enough so the pop is no problem. When digitizing slides with my setup I can ran a full load of slides through without losing (visibly) focus and maintaing quality.

You are welcome! Hope this could help a little bit.

Thanks a lot for the nice comment! I am very happy my little idea was useful for you. Greatings from Europe!

Sorry to hear that the bike is so much weight. I just recently built another bike based on a 1999s wilier elite hardtail MTB (which I will present later on this channel when I have time). With - also - TSDZ2B and 15Ah/36V the bike weighs total below 17kg which is by far lighter than any stock ebike-MTB you can buy. But it's still a weight to carry...

Si, volentieri. Ma il mio italiano non e sufficiente buono cosi prefericso rispondere in inglese. The base bikes I have converted are kind of "old style" MTBs so they have at the rear usually a set of sprockets ranging from 11 - 34T. That holds for 7-fold up to 10-fold. To have a usable gear ratio when going uphill in our mountains I have to go for the smallest possible chainring that is 34T. On the other hand when going on flat roads the pedaling resistancee of TSDZ2/B is so low that you can easily go faster (by your own force) than the 25 km/h where motor support ends. Especially if the road goes slightly downhill. In this occasions it makes sense to have a gear ratio of e.g. 42T (or more) front to 14T rear to pedal also here with a good cadence. So the double chain ring helps you on old MTBs to have mountain and road gear ratios. If you convert a "modern" MTB with rear sprockets from 11 - 46 things are diffferent: here I would stick to a the single stock TSDZ2 chain ring with 42R and offset. Hope this helps. Spero che ho spiegato bene perche le due corone fanno senso per me. Se sono altre domande mi lascia un commento. Ciao!

@@the_geargineer honestly i dont know how are the old and the modern rear gears. my bike is not new (2012) so maybe it's old. i will ask the mechanic if he can install the dual ring. maybe i should buy it. u have a link?

@giorgio.plazzotta : a build from 2012 is the perfect age. But be aware that dual ring can be tricky, see my other video: ua-cam.com/video/s7MWTI9DFKo/v-deo.html . Besides that the chain rings are regular 5-hole road bike chain rings you can get "everywhere". The conversion kit I bought in germany at enerprof.de/Motor-Kits/ . Prices are OK there and batteries are assembled in germany and have ISO certifications (which is for safety/insurance reasons a big advantage). But you get everything also at ebay or amazon. I am currently preparing another conversion of an 9-speed MTB and will go this time for single front ring 34T front and 11-36T at the rear as the driver is more on the "mountain" side. Feel free to write if there are still questions.

@@the_geargineer since u are an expert of this mothor i have another question for u. i just took the kit to the mechanic for moutning so we noticed that i bought the kit "with brakes" though I have hydraulic brakes. i could buy the sensor for hydraulic brakes but i wonder if it is really useful or i can go without it. . I think that if i stop pedaling the mothor will not give power. what do u think?

@@giorgio.plazzotta : I believe you are talking about the brake sensors: my experience is that the TSDZ2(B) works very well without brake sensors. TSDZ2 works based on torque sensing and amplifies the force of your legs (more exact the pressure you apply to the pedals). If you just pedal without any force the motor will stop to support. So brake sensors usually are not necessary. With Bafang-motors (or the older bosch motors) things are different: the motor senses only the movement and not the force: as soon as you begin to pedal the motor starts to work at the support level set. So if you brake and would still just move the pedals - even without force - the brakes would have to work against the motor. Thus these motors need "brake priority" (via brake sensors) to avoid this scenario and stop the motor when the brake is acted even when pedals are still moving. Hope this helps.

At position 08:55 in the video you see that the spider has 5 holes which were fixed with small allen head screws to the motor (see following minute). These screws are originally secured with thread locker (loctite) so when re-mounting I used also loctite blue. First time I took off that spider I was a little bit nervous but it's no big deal and quite easy to get it off and mounted again. Hope this helps otherwise just ask, Cheers!

@@the_geargineer I took the five allen-head bolts out, but the spider will not move. I am afraid to try to pry it off. Was there any other step besides removing the five small bolts?

@@OrigamiBicycleCo as far as I remember not. It took some gentle force but that was all. Sorry that I have no additional advice..

So you can reduce cadence which allows motor to apply torque. This motor reduces torque above 90 cadence so if you go fast and cadence is high, motor assistance reduces which is the opposite of intent. Capish?

@@superwag634 52t chainring and 48/11 on the back , sorted , capish?

Glad the video was useful! Be sure to have a vintage front derailleur (as show in my other video). Derailleurs from 1999 on will probably not work. A rear rack battery is also a good solution. Cheers!

Thanks a lot for this advice! I call the bike "back" and look for a solution!

Sorry, but I have no experience or knowledge regarding the bafang motors.

@@the_geargineer besides that, is there a limit on how big the chain rings should be? I am wanting to run a 34t and 50t. If I were to pull this off, would there be any issues with this?

@@smolasianboi8432 on my tsdz2 I have 34T and 43T which works fine. As in Germany motor support stops at 25km/h larger chainrings are of limited use. From a technical perspective 50T should work (like on "normal " bikes)

The small ring is 34T. This is the minimum on Tsdz2.

42T с завода, но можно 42Т+52Т без переключателя

I am very happy that it worked so well. Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment!

Of course. The only thing to consider is that the stock chain ring usually has an offset to be closer to the frame. Thus the gap between the two chain rings will maybe be too large and "catch" the chain and make gear changing difficult. Check for that and if this is the case replace also the 42T stock chain ring with a standard non offset chain ring. Now you should be able to combine this with 50t+. Have a look at my other video to get a vintage derailleur to make dual chain ring work.

Thanks!

Si, esatto. Il minimo e 34T. Saluti.

34 seems to be the minimum you can use on tsdz2. The Motor ships with 42T standard. Hope this helps.

@@the_geargineer My Bafang Mid-motor shipped w/a 44 Tooth Chain-ring supplied But was curious about what I wrote you earlier about earlier about the dual Chain-rings and your Longer throw 4cm front Derailer, and where I can purchase it. Please advise, Michael

​@@michaelshayman8964: have a look at ua-cam.com/video/s7MWTI9DFKo/v-deo.html - here I explain in detail what derailleur to choose and how to get one. Thanks

Glad it helps!

It's tsdz2b.

Thanks for the nice comment. Always happy to help solving a problem!

I am quite optimistic. Whatever the result will be, I will share my tries and thoughts ...

I managed to get it working, see here: ua-cam.com/video/s7MWTI9DFKo/v-deo.html

Thanks! Yes, no problem with the wheels at all. Next week I will hopefully change the front derailler to make double chain ring work - there will be a short video (later) on that too.

Thanks! Happy that my video is useful.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the friendly comment! The triban rc120 seems to be a nice bike. I think an alu frame is also a good option. The only point to consider is how to mount the battery. In this case I would not go for the bottle holder threads but instead use a "frame pack"-battery. Before buying parts be sure the bottom bracket has the correct dimensions. Besides that the motor option you mention is really powerful (seems you are from US as in Europe motor power is limited to 250W - otherwise it would be a "motor bike"). 750W is quite higher than an average human is able to produce - so maybe the bike should be extra robust - but you will find information on this for sure elsewhere. Thanks!

Hello, dear friend from Germany! I don't know if I can call it that, please don't get me wrong! I confess that I was surprised by your very kind response! Like you, I also use a bike to go to work, very good! My exams showed improvements in health! The problem is when it rains! About two weeks ago I was attracted by a Decathlon promotion and... I know I should have certified compatibility before... but... I bought a RiverSide 540 MS hybrid bike At my location it comes with 9 speed 1x microshift (11-46). I had commented on Triban because I had bought an RS size S since other sizes were out of stock, maybe I had to opt for another model, but now my size has arrived. I will only use the bike in urban areas, nothing offroad, riding in a respectful way, the option for 750W, it is exclusively due to overcome climbs more easily and maybe take someone on the pillion, eventually, but I know this will be possible because of the limitation , according to Decathlon, 105 kg, pilot + load and also for being only 32 holes. Lately I had a lot of commitments and only now, next Saturday, will I go to the store to check compatibility details with the tsdz2. I already bought the battery, it is a hailong 48V 20mah, I received it in the second half of January. This battery already comes with a support to be installed on the two bottle screws in the center of the bike, it even looks like yours in your video. Do you think there might be a problem with this standard way of installing the battery? I think I'll take the battery to the shop to see if it fits the frame. Considering your experience, the following requirements are necessary: inner diameter from 33.5 to 35 mm, width from 68 to 73 mm and wall thickness less than 8 mm must not have cables running under the bottom bracket Are there any other details I should check? Thank you so much and may God bless you and your family!

@@armandocioffineto6367 Sounds good. I think the bottom bracket is no problem, but the combination of frame/battery could be. Hailong (actually it's the battery case manufacturer) batteries can be a problem on the bottle holder screws (as it was for my conversion). That's why a so called "soft pack" mounted in the frame may be easier to install. Hailong builds also side load cases but also these need the bottle holder at the right place. Maybe think of rivet nuts if the bottle holes are not at the right place and use three of them. I think decathlon builds decent quality so this also could work. Cheers.

Thanks a lot - and you are right. Wood was quite dry and I have to optimize usage (but now mostly use my alcohol burner). Glad you like the videos! There are more to come but I am currently a little bit short on spare time.

Danke! Stimmt. War mir bisher noch gar nicht aufgefallen 😊