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Thanks so much! 🙏I made a couple of prototypes with tapered sides and was struggling to beat 6 minutes so I was really surprised when this one easily surpassed 7 minutes and after a bit of practice I could achieve 8 minutes. Gotta admit my fingertips were pretty sore by the end. 😄

@@makeitbetter5528 Hahaha, that was totally worth it!😹We happen to have a cooperation project here, and I think it's a perfect match for your video content. I wonder if you are interested and could you leave me a contact so we can discuss further?😃

@@makeitbetter5528 hahaha, that was totally worth it!😄We happen to have a project here and we would like to know if you are interested💬

It'd sure be interesting to know if Mafell have made any adjustments to the design or machining process to address the issue. Thanks for watching!

@@makeitbetter5528 Well, I'm probably going to buy one from Germany towards the end of this month. I'll be cutting railway sleepers with it (hardwood) with some extra long jigsaw blades. If it starts to overheat, I may report back here.

It's a fantastic jigsaw, but it's the wrong tool for that job. The long blades flex way too much, it'll be slow and it will get very hot if you're cutting such thick timber for extended periods. You should use a reciprocating saw/Sawzall or even better a chainsaw for cutting sleepers. In fact, a manual bow saw would probably do a better job than a jigsaw.

Haha, you had me worried there for a second. The blade is mounted correctly, I think the frame rate is just creating the illusion that the blade is spinning clockwise.

I'd be willing to bet that Mafell are working on it.

Their battery jigsaw as just released.

Mine too when I actually dropped it and broke it, I was genuinely nauseous picking it up to inspect the damage. Definitely a case of "the heavier they are the harder they fall", but I got off pretty lightly and learned to pay more attention when setting down tools.

Thanks so much for the kind comment and the subscription! 🙏

No sorry, but the dimensions would vary depending on the band saw so you'd need to alter them anyway. The overall size of the jig isn't so important, the only measurements that really matter are that the width of the slot on the side (20 mm) is larger than the spacing between the holes (10 mm) so that you can adjust the jig properly.

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching. 🙏

I understand your point, but I can't stand D-handle jigsaws, it just feels unnatural to have my hand so far from the blade, give me a barrel grip any day. And nothing beats Mafell in terms of power. 😉

Yep, it's brilliant, easily the best all-round screwdriver I've owned.

Thanks! 🙏

Thanks! 🙏

Thanks so much! 🙏😀 Regarding the sled for my bandsaw I just wanted a simple surface to be able to quickly place both rough lumber (e.g. firewood) and already-sawn pieces for sawing without having to tighten clamps and stuff. For the rough stuff I just place three sharpened rods under so the piece doesn't rock while sawing. For the neater stuff (where one face is already flat) I mounted the self-adhesive sandpaper which works just fine with a little downward pressure. This was just a quick prototype, there's a few things I would like to improve (for example supports for accurate resawing) while still keeping it very simple so I'll probably make a v.2.0 sometime and maybe a video about it.

Let me guess, you're employed by or otherwise associated with Mafell? I have TWO Mafell P1cc jigsaws bought three years apart and both get uncomfortably hot in use. Several users have complained about the heat on the MUF forums so I am definitely NOT the only one. I have not heard of anyone being offered a free service or replacement due to heat. As I wrote in the description, this fix may void your warrantee even though it is non-destructive and 100% reversible (that's why I use CPU paste and not glue!). I love my Mafell tools and have received excellent service from them, I believe them to be a great company who make the best tools on the market, but they are very expensive and if I find a way to improve them or rectify a manufacturing defect it's only reasonable that I bring this to the attention of other owners. Stop trying to scaremonger. #righttorepair

Might be a lack of grease, but could also be a loose bearing like my Mafell in which case you actually want to INCREASE the friction between the bearing and the housing. That's where I applied CPU thermal paste in the video.

@@makeitbetter5528 I'll have to open it up and have a look. you would think at the price I paid for it, I could just use it with no problems for years. I guess not...

Yes, but that's the whole point of the scoring function. When you activate it the blade moves inwards a tenth of a millimeter and the depth is limited to 3 millimeters. So when you do your final cut you're pretty much guaranteed NO tear-out with the flick of one switch. I'd guess it's intended for saving A LOT of time when cutting the edges of kitchen carcasses, shelves etc which are visible, but not for super-close inspection by UA-camrs(!!). Tear-out looks absolutely terrible compared to the tiny 0.1 mm gap and risks carpenter's customers rejecting work which of course eats into profit. For cutting counter tops and very visible edges I still do a regular scoring cut by putting masking tape on the surface, setting the depth manually to 3 mm, doing the scoring cut and then doing the final cut at full depth very slowly so the blade's teeth have plenty of time to clear the kerf debris. Personally I think Mafell's solution is absolute genius!

Sorry, I don't know how to fix that issue. Is the blade stuck or can you not push a blade in? I guess you already tried spraying with WD40 or similar?

You're right Len, I missed that! 🤭 Nevertheless, my calculations were done in degrees Celsius so the ratio of temperature increase and improvement after the fix should be correct!

@@makeitbetter5528 Totally. The overall effect is the same. I only noticed it because I was just in the US and had to convert in my head constantly. 1 degree C increase equals about 1.8 F as I recall. A top video anyway.

Thanks! 😊

Why not?

@@makeitbetter5528 as its a top of the line tool it deserves the best materials to work on 👍

You mean I should buy a second CHEAP plunge saw just for when I'm going to cut cheap materials? 😄

True its a saw made for carpenters and is ideal for jobsite work and sheet goods.

Haha, I do recall feeling a bit nauseous for a while. Fortunately it bounced off some wood scraps before it hit the concrete floor so the final impact wasn't too bad. The piece that broke off is only there to hold Mafell's plunge cut length guide (which I've used maybe twice in about 10 years) and it still fulfills that function so no real harm was done. It could have been so MUCH worse. 😬

I wouldn't go that far 😂

Thanks! 😊 I'd be very surprised if Mafell skimped on something as fundamental as one of the main bearings, their design and build quality is otherwise second-to-none. But any manufacturer can have a bit of bad luck, whether it be a microscopically undersized bearing or a CNC mill bit that's developed run-out. The fact that the P1cc is so powerful perhaps exaggerates the effect of tiny variations that wouldn't be noticeable in cheaper/weaker jigsaws. I was just glad to discover that this issue was so easy to remedy myself, which is more than can be said for issues with other manufacturers' machines. I'm not a fanboy of any brand as there's no such thing as "the perfect tool", but I absolutely love my P1cc and MT55 plunge saws! 😄

Hi Phil, are you implying that I treat my P1cc with disrespect? 😄 I've seen several P1cc owners complain online about overheating (and both of mine got HOT until I fixed them), but I have no idea what percentage of the total number of owners have experienced it. The difference between a bearing sitting just right in the housing and one which sits a little loose may be just a few hundredths of a millimeter and there will always be some margin of error in the CNC machining process for example due to a worn mill so it's only normal that some owners will experience problems while others never do.

This has nothing to do with wear, the bearing was clearly sitting slightly loose in the housing from the start. Besides, cross-cutting 2 by 4s is a piece of cake for a 900 watt jigsaw. One of the most common uses for a jigsaw is doing large holes in 2 inch hardwood worktops for sinks etc or figure cuts for profiled ends on 8 inch rafters, both of which involve fairly long rip cuts which is WAY harder on the saw. If you never experienced a hot P1cc you're either only cutting sheet goods or are one of the lucky ones who got a tight fitting bearing from the factory.

Certainly not. It's easy for cheaper jigsaws. Price of Mafell means it should be almost flawless for every production run. Surprised they didn't immediately offer replacement

@@cuebj I should say that I never contacted Mafell concerning how hot the P1cc gets as many users have written on the MUF forums about the heat and just seem to accept it. Also it's kinda subjective what "hot" is: 52c isn't actually that hot, but if you've got bare hands on bare metal it's very uncomfortable IMO. So I opened it up to see if it needed greasing or a different type of grease and saw that the bearing was slightly loose in the housing so I came up with this fix, it was way easier and quicker than contacting Mafell, sending the jigsaw for repair or replacement and being without my P1cc for weeks!

It's hardly a "piece of junk"! It's unquestionably the most accurate and powerful jigsaw on the market with superb build quality. Just as a supercar requires more care and maintenance than a regular car, expensive tools sometimes require a bit of "fine tuning". Cheaper jigsaws may be less likely to overheat, but that's partly because they're often underpowered. The P1 cc is a beast and I've never heard of an owner who regretted buying one.

@@makeitbetter5528 thanks

​@@makeitbetter5528 Is Mafell going to rid the saw of its cord, add a light and clear the line of sight?

@@rickyperkins232 I guess... eventually... I don't have any affiliation with Mafell or their resellers whatsoever.

@@rickyperkins232 Their battery jigsaw is out, with a light.

The bearing didn't rotate in the housing because it was greasy, it rotated because it was loose (in other words there's air between the bearing and the housing). The CPU thermal paste acts as a non-drying glue to stop the bearing outer race spinning and vibrating against the housing. You have to clean the grease off first so the thermal paste will "stick".

@@makeitbetter5528 Thanks!

I think it's very hit-and-miss, the difference between a loose sitting bearing and one which is just right may be a matter of just a few microns in machining tolerance.

To be fair, the very fact that the bearing sits in a metal housing (as opposed to plastic on many tools) means that machining tolerances become almost impractically critical.

I don't have any statistics, but owners have complained about it on the MUF forums. Both of my P1 cc jigsaws ran hot, this one was slightly worse than the other. With that said loose fitting bearings are a very common problem in many tools.

No. Why do you ask?