Відео

I went with the new mid length

Awesome man - I've got a little over 1000 miles on the Corbin now - incredible seat...love it.

Not sure exactly...but not much...maybe an inch or two, tops.

I've got some other updated videos on the site showing more details. I've switched from the Garmin to a unit that just does Carplay instead but am still using the RAM ball mounts with the primary one that goes into the hole in the middle of the forks. You replace that bolt with a longer one that goes through the RAM ball and then you can build up your mount from that using whatever bits you like/need.

I've got some other updated videos on the site showing more details. I've switched from the Garmin to a unit that just does Carplay instead but am still using the RAM ball mounts with the primary one that goes into the hole in the middle of the forks. You replace that bolt with a longer one that goes through the RAM ball and then you can build up your mount from that using whatever bits you like/need.

No problem

Hey! Anything over 6.5" will need extensions. I started with 6.5" but then added the Thrashin' RG pullback plate and that was enough to get me to put the extensions on. Honestly, can't really tell a difference between the Gooden Tight bushings I had put in with the 6.5" risers and the solids that come with the pullback plate. I use squishy Avon grips so that might help a little for me too.

That's not me tuning bro...I'm sitting on the side taking the video. :) Fin is a combat vet - his hearing is blown anyway.

Thanks man! That's still the Garmin ZumoXT that I figured out how to use that fork nut in the middle of the risers (needed to buy a little longer bolt than stock) and some RAM mount bits off Amazon to make it fit there. I've actually sold that unit and bought a Carpuride unit which is basically the same size and in the same spot...but it's just an android auto unit. Hopefully that helps.

check out other videos - I've got a SP Concepts Big Bore and a full cam job since that video.

LOL there's always one...I have since hard wired the detector into the bike. That's not a trivial thing to do on my bike since I need to remove the tank and the seat and some other stuff under the seat to get to the battery to install a HD adapter that allows switched power to various devices. That was always the plan - the battery pack was just a stop-gap and also remains a nice backup option.

1) basically, yes. 2) extremely 3) The Valentine and the Uniden R8 are the two high end detectors that actually have bluetooth connectivity and the ability to work with the respective apps so that you get the notifications on your phone.

Thank you!

I've heard of a few folks that had some tightness even doing 6.5". I'd suggest trying to move stuff around particularly if the tightness is coming from the bundle of wire that's in the frame feeding the lights, handlebars, speedo, etc... You can get into there and fish some out and there's a little extra length on those cables since they are stuffed in there. Might try that?

You have to use theirs if you use their risers.

I've only had the Corbin on a few weeks and maybe 300 miles...but it's awesome. I can definitely tell it's going to be a keeper.

@@MotoATXwhich seat moves you up and forward the most?????

@@Group_Anonymous Great question. Following.

Thanks man - was grunting on the price pulling that trigger...but they've been worth it.

Agree. I've only got about 300 miles on it so far...but it's a keeper.

Thanks man! It's the most fun (and most expensive) part of owning one of these incredible machines. Thanks for stopping by!!

Thank you - and thanks for stopping by!

Good to know...thanks!

This install was precautionary. There wasn't anything wrong with the stock battery as far as I knew. I just wanted to put something in that was going to last longer and be more efficient. But no, I didn't fully charge it when I got the Antigravity...I put it on the tender and from the get go it was a solid green light (which means 70+% charged).

I live in Texas - so don't need the cold cranking amps as much as I need the reliability. :)

2.25". I've since sold...you can find other videos on my channel with the latest updates...currently running a CR483 cam along with a SP Concepts Big Bore 2-1 pipe. Glorious!!

Louvered 2.25".

Thanks!

Baxley Sport Chock. Works great!!

Thanks man! I'm lovin' it!!

ua-cam.com/video/mk5sZXQlkkM/v-deo.htmlsi=2ALe762Thw20L4fj

@@MotoATX oh. Those are levers

Best of luck to you. After finding an awesome tuner in my area and having a long discussion(s) on this topic...I'm VERY glad that I ended up just doing PowerVision and skipping the TMax. When you watch someone tune your bike, especially with some context as they are telling you what they are doing manually vs what the 'auto tuning' capabilities can do on these devices, you'll quickly see that just relying on the auto tuning features alone might not be the best idea. I know there are a lot of folks that use Tmax and swear by it - and I'm not going to argue with them. I would simply say that even with one, you're better off finding someone who actually knows how to tune a bike and then use the auto tuning features to fine tune from there. Best of luck to you man - hope you get it squared away. My issue just proves that these bikes are all different and you never know what gremlin is going to get you.

thx bro. your right. few tuners here on big island. c ya

They are back on there - they are a total PITA to get on so wait until I know for sure I'm done!!

Incorrect. I talked to several techs about this and you do need to pull the primary cover off. If you pull the derby cover off you can see that the clutch spring to replace is not perfectly centered. To get it off and on properly you need to slowly back out each one at a time and the same with the reinstall and that's not possible the way they are oriented in the primary. There are some earlier M8 models where that's a little different - but on my 23 ST that's not possible.

@@MotoATXI’m willing to believe that, as I haven’t tried it myself, but that surprises me.

I'm 6' tall. Currently I'm using a LaPera Tailwhip seat and I bumped my risers up another 2" using the Thrashin' Road Glide pull back plate which gives you an additional 2" rise and 2" pullback. So currently I'm at around 8.5" rise and 2" additional pull back from what the Thrasin 6.5" already pull back. I think you'll find - as do most - that 6.5" is definitely better than stock but most folks want higher...buy once, cry once...just get the cable extensions and go higher. I've also got a set of the 1" Thrasin riser extensions that I can add in to the bottom of the 6.5" risers to get an additional inch. I'll probably install them at some point but it's a huge PITA to take all that apart again just to do that...so I'll wait until I'm already in there for something else.

For real. It's amazing how expensive these stock bikes are out the door when practically everything from an ergonomics perspective HAS to be replaced or upgraded for each rider. Seat, bars, risers, foot controls, etc... Every single one of those goes into a box within weeks or months of coming home to it's new owner. But yes, hard to understand why the stock bars on both the RG and SG are so damn low?

Thank you! Mostly make these so I can go back and look at my progress and figure might as well share as it could help someone else out along the way. Welcome!!

awesome! It's a lot of fun...only downside is the Harley days rides are like a HOG chapter ride...you're staggered and limping around riding the speed limit...not any real opportunities to ride the bike they way you 'normally' would, if you know what I mean. So, it is kinda hard to REALLY get an idea of how the bike feels on these rides...but better than not riding it at all. ;)

It's the seat that's been on my bike since I got it. Much more comfortable than the SDC probably because it's wider. I've got a custom Corbin on the way (they sent me the first one but it was stitched and colored wrong so I sent it back). I'll do a 3 way comparison with the SDC, LaPera and the Corbin once I get it.

I didn't on that setup - If you watch the entire video you'll see the bolts that I used to replace the stock ones. I've since upgraded to the Thrashin' Road Glide plate which brings the risers another 2" or so closer to me...so I'm still using these same risers but a different bolt/setup altogether at this point.

indeed - a lot of options here. I just saw this lock on an ad and honestly hadn't really thought about something like this to this point as I haven't really taken long overnight trips where I'm leaving my bike in unattended for long periods of time. If you use this in conjunction with the fork lock on the bike along with the anti-theft systems the new bikes have...you're definitely giving the thief a reason to look elsewhere for something a little easier to get.

You're welcome! Thanks for stopping by!

Kinda hard to read that - but I get the gist. ;) $6k is what it is. Your labor costs may vary - especially if you do the work yourself - but the parts are the parts. As I mention in the video - you can do JUST a cam. Of course, you'll need the adjustable pushrods and a few other things like the bearing, etc... that are required when you change one...but you can certainly get a cam done for much less. Just depends on what you're going for. I love this bike and have every intention of keeping it a good while...so performance was important of course but so was longer term reliability. All things to take into consideration.

yeah no idea what was going on with this one - assume it was something electrical but who knows honestly. I know they really wanted to figure it out but in the end I feel like using powervision and getting my bike dyno tuned was the better solution anyway...