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Cheers. As you can see in the previous comments, it's been pointed out....

Sounds like you might fit the beer and the lifestyle.

Nice to hear from you, cheers. Yeah, that was the motor option offered by MattMill as standard. Its fantastically powerful, but it's geared down a lot. Therefore (in case it's not obvious) the footage is all sped up of the milling.

Thanks for letting me know. I've got a packet of Vista sitting in the freezer, which I was going to do something with weeks ago. However, my brew calendar has been moved around somewhat, so I'm thinking that this will be a project coming into summer. 👍

Oh definitely the way to go, for sure. However, the simplest way of putting it is... capacity. I've nearly always got between 3 and 5 brews on the go. So one unitank tends to be taken up by a lager, which then leaves the other tank to act as the clearing, carbonating and bottling system. As the ales all tend to have their own timescales and quirks, it means they can sit around in their fermentors until they're ready, and not tie up a uni.

👍

I've never done a split batch between Notty and 05, and I guess you can get a nice clean ferment out of Notty if you can keep it cool. However I think for me I'd have to put them into different use categories, of esters and no esters. However as for the clearest bottle conditioned beer, I don't think you'll get much better than Nottingham.

@@brewandbuild completely agree. After a few weeks of conditioning I can tell a difference. Much easier to get clarity off the notty but have to ferment it super low. Once I get back into using a Unitank ill be able to cold crash. Would love to see your process on cold crashing then bottle filling. I dont think ive seen anyone who bottles off a Blichmann beer gun like you do, which is absolutely awesome. Huge problem when I was kegging was people HAD to come to my house to drink it. I couldn't take it to them easily. Again, great channel. Thank you for your insight!

I have toyed with doing a video on my bottling process, but unfortunately there's only about 10 people in the world that are interested in doing it that way. So I'm not sure it would be worth it. Maybe one day. The reality is, the world kegs, so I'm definitely in the minority on this process. 😁😁

Thanks for that. I appreciate you letting me know.

He he, I'm always aiming for bright clear, but sometimes the beer just doesn't play ball. Cheers 🍻

That's very strange. I've certainly had no reply come through to me.

​@brewandbuild Yes, strange. I will have questions for you, appreciate your willingness to help.

I agree, I've not found one without that sour twang yet. And yes many seem to mostly clean up after a conditioning period, but they all still hold onto that sour note to some degree. (at least to my taste). Increasing the nutrients for kweik is something I might need to try. This Framgarden is slightly softer than many of the other kweiks, I find. Suspect it's something to do with it being an isolate.

Great video. Suggest to shout/scream when adding the Kveik. This is according to tradition. 😊

I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. 🍺🍺

Thanks for watching, and letting me know. 😁😁 Yeah, the footage is sped up. It makes a nice sequence like that, but would be very hard to watch at normal speed. The MattMill is not a fast mill, but I think it's about the most accurate and well built that I've seen.

That's great to hear. Cheers. I hope you've got a few people to help you get through that before New Year. 😁😁🍺 If you ever make it again, you'll need to bottle a few. It's a bit hot on alcohol at first, but it gets so smooth after 6 - 12 months, that it's hard to tell it's 11%. Have a good Xmas and New Year. 🎉

😁 Styles are a bit subjective at the best of times.... I mean, at what point does a pale ale become an IPA? So there are very blurred lines between some beers styles, I could call a beer something, and be so far on the edge of some style guidelines that it's as much something else, as it is what I'm calling it. This one, I'm afraid would be hard to blur the line that far. The hops and yeast are in the right ball park, but there's a bit too much Brown malt and WAY too much Roast Barley in this to be able to get away with calling this a Wee Heavy (which is a style that we find a little confusing here in Scotland, I have to say). This one I'm afraid is definitely a Porter or a Stout, but I don't think I can file it under anything else to influence you to try it. 🍺

@brewandbuild Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Could this be a video content idea - similar grist but different styles? By the way, commercially brewed Scottish beer is getting scarcer here in the USA.

It's a shame you're not getting the Scottish beer. There's some really good brewing happening from some of our "craft" breweries. But then, there's an awful lot of good stuff over there as well, and I guess it's hard to get a space in the market Interesting content idea, I might give that one some thought. 👍

​@brewandbuild I live in Wisconsin, and there are a very few breweries here that brew a Wee Heavy, without peat smoke, and a fewer number of breweries brew lesser alcohol content Scottish ales. I like McEwens Wee, sometimes available here, but I don't know the affects their age have.

@@jefferymiller6997 I would think that they age quite well, being of a high alcohol and low hop nature. What you refer to as McEwans Wee, I believe is McEwans Scotch Ale, although to my knowledge it is not able to be purchased anywhere in the UK. It's obviously brewed for the US market, which is a shame, as I think it would probably be well received here. There is a small trend toward drinking less volume, but higher alcohol, which would lend itself to this beer.

I'm definitely going to have to try raising the fermentation temp a bit. It might just be the key to this orange thing. Quite a coincidence that you bring up M31. I was just looking over some of my very early brews where I used M31 quite a lot. My notes say that I kept getting a sharp note which I assumed was yeast derived. Having looked them over more thoroughly, I think the issue may have been water and mash ph. The short of this is that I figured I should give the yeast a re-visit, but if you are using it today, then that's great. Please let me know how it turns out. I'm particularly interested in the FG and the comparison to M41. Cheers and happy holidays.

Yesterday I bottled the Tripel. The app. atten.was 92%. ABV was 8.1% but the sugar for carbonisation will provide add. 0.6%. So I am close to the target. The smell was sweet bubble gum more typical for a Belgian Blonde. The taste was very smooth and less phenolic. I have the original Straffe Hendrik in the cellar. In 4-6 weeks I will make a comparison. Fermantation temperature was 22 to 24°C. The yeast's atten. in the first brew (Belg. Blonde) was 95%.

@@erlebnis-raubfischangeln9163 Ahh, fantastic. Thanks for those numbers. I've taken a note along with the numbers you gave me for the M41. Data like that is always useful for future projects. I look forward to hearing the comparison.

There's a load of yeast left in the Straffe bottles, so building up from there would certainly be pretty easy. The one problem with that is not knowing whether they pitch a different strain to the fermentation strain. Therefore, I tend not to do that, unless I can find confirmation that they use the same yeast. Chimay is an example where i can find enough testimonials of this, and so I propagate that from bottles. It may work though, although I think the Westmalle strain (WLP530)is pretty close in taste.

I always end up with a finished post boil volume of about 19 litres. After settling, I get about 18 litres into the fermentor. Yeah, that's the thing isn't it. So much of the alcohol is from the sugar, that it's a bit like doing a kit brew. Seems crazy for such an expensive commercial beer copy huh?

I pitch at about 18.5c and whilst I let it "free-rise" up to 22c, I kind of cheat a bit. I hold the beer at 19c for the first 24 hours (using wet towels if need be) as this is where you're going to be at most risk of getting those jet fuel fusil tastes. After the 24 hours, it's a free rise to 21.5 - 22 c, at which point I hold it there with whatever means necessary, once again wet towels. Now, I'm going to qualify this free rise thing. If you're fermenting in 15c ambient, then free rise will be very slow and controlled, however, if you're fermenting in 25c ambient, it going to get there in a couple of hours. So the whole free-rise thing is a bit misleading. I should say that if I've got very warm conditions at the time, I control the rise so that it happens over about 2 days, although I don't tend to force heat it (I'd prefer to wrap it in insulation and let it do the work). It's definitely an ambient condition issue.... Now, I just had someone suggest a higher ferment, in order to bring out some citrus notes from the yeast. That's an interesting idea, but it will need to be controlled to avoid those fusils you're talking about. I would say, don't write off 530. It's my favorite Abbey strain.

@@brewandbuild My two theories are that the Trappist monks do this increase slowly or as you described. But I also have what I call the size matters hypothesis. In a tank of thousands of liters, much of the beer including the yeast cake will be under a lot of pressure. Which I think allows for higher temperatures. You can read in BLAM that beer got fewer esters when the tank had a large height to area ratio. Will try wlp530 when I test your recipe. May be a while because all my bottles are full. Not enough bottles to brew is an alchol problem.

@@oliverekeland7003 I like that pressure theory, it certainly fits with this. What an awful problem, you have too much beer. 😂😂😂😂

Complex indeed..... you're spot on there. 👍 But yes, this is on the way to being dialed for me.

That's a good point. I hadn't thought about trying to force citrus from the yeast on this. You've given me something to work on there. Cheers.

Wheat would work in this, and in fact it was one of my first ideas to put into version 1. However, I decided that it's probably not in the Straffe as it's not listed on the ingredients. Maybe in such small amounts, it may not need to be listed, but major allergens like wheat are supposed to be labelled in bold on the ingredients list. The fact that it's not there says to me that it's probably not in it. I brew quite a bit with honey (we keep bees...) so I can recognise the taste in beer quite quickly. It's not a taste I get from the original, so whilst I think it would work very well in this, I don't think it's in the original. 🍺🍺

Yep, I can genuinely say that this is a good brew. 🍺🍺

It's hard to do, but as your example proves, it's also a slow business. The amount of time between re-brews is long, as you don't want to be drinking the same beer all the time. Still good fun though......

@@brewandbuild i totally agree! my mexican lager just got bottles up. it will be ready december 25. simple grain bill . weyermann pilsner, vienna, and flaked maize-corn. my stores didnt have mexican lager yeast though so i had to substitute for german lager yeast. hopefully there wont be too much difference between te yeast.

I like your timing for Xmas day, nicely done. 👏 Suspect that you'll get a bit more yeast derived flavour from the German yeast, but let's face it, a sizable addition of corn is going to clean it up pretty well. Hope it's a nice Xmas brew.

@@brewandbuild so do i.

I keep all my beer outside in a stone barn. It's reasonably temperature stable, and cool. I never really bulk condition, it all gets bottled and then ages in the bottle. The store bought was with me for about 3 months, didn't check it for a date however. It was also kept with my other beer.

Ha, you're right there. Back in my twenties, that would have been a good warm up for the night. These days, that was the night.

I'll be watching to see what you do with that malt. I'm with you on that, I've always got a pale lager in store, summer or winter. Its almost time to start brewing the summer lagers now tho. Good weather for long and cold lagering.

You are absolutely correct. However, I started many years ago using S-04, LONG before I ever used US-05. So that when I eventually started using US-05, I just always referred to it as S-05 (and still do), I'll try to make a point of using the correct name in my videos tho, cheers for pointing it out.

ps. I made ur recipe for the belgian candi sugar.. turned out great! Will make a dubbel of my own in january or so, cant wait haha

Ahh well noticed, 😁 I realised after I started the recirculation, so I had to stop it and give it a stir. I knew someone would notice tho....

Good news on the candi sugar. Fingers crossed for a good outcome on the dubbel. 🤞

My water supply is from our own spring on the hill behind the house. The water is extremely pure, and low mineral. The additions for me were 3.5g chalk, 3.5g Gypsum, 4g bicarb soda, 4.5g CaCl, 10g Epsom Salt It's hard work getting it dissolved, and the only way it finally does dissolve, is when I add about 8 ml phosphoric acid. Believe it or not, this water profile was light compared to one I've just brewed, but it was pretty much required for the style....

@ I did wonder about all the acid. I didn’t consider adding bicarb as well, but that explains it now I think. My water has very low mineralisation also, but it’s treated with (fluctuating levels of) chlorine so my first mineral addition is always sodium metabisulphite at 20ppm.

An annoying extra step I'm sure, but at least you've got a fairly blank profile straight from the tap. Don't know about you, but I have to say, I feel lucky not to have a water supply that requires me to install an RO system.

It's actually not to do with extraction, it's a way of adding flavour. The extraction and conversion of sugars is done in the mash step, where we soak the grains at a given temperature fore a period of time. The grains are all removed for the boil. On this beer, the long boil was for two reasons: One was to reduce the double batch volume down to a single batch size (therefore doubling the alcohol potential). The second was to brown the sugars and create caramel flavours in the beer. Much the same as when you bochet a mead. The colours and flavours in the mead are coming from the caramelised honey. Hope this helps.... 🍺👍

@brewandbuild Amazing. A few more questions. What's a good beer style to try as a first project? Meadmaking is challenging to create something people want to drink, because it requires a lot of balancing of sweetness, acids, and tannins. Is grain brewing easier to create something drinkable? I've heard that beer is far more vulnerable to municipal water imperfections like chloramine and pH. How hard is it to test and correct this? Likewise, I've heard beer is more easily oxidized than mead; what extra steps do I need to take to make sure even less oxygen reaches beer than it does mead? Can I mash and boil on an electric kitchen stove, or does it have to be done outdoors with a burner as I see most brewers do?

I agree that mead making is an art in itself. However, I have to say, I find making mead a lot less work than beer. Although, the maturing time of mead is way beyond anything you'll get in the beer world. A good style to start is some sort of pale ale. They're forgiving, the yeast is generally quite neutral, and it's more about a good process with temperature control and keeping the oxygen exposure to a minimum. Generally you can fix most water issues with boiling the water first, and most municipal waters are fine to use. The best option is reverse osmosis to produce a blank canvas, and then build the water profile to what you require. However, this is WAY beyond where you need to start with beer brewing. I think the best place to start is with a kit, or even invent your own recipe, but use malt extract to start. This will give you a chance to get the fermentation control practiced, plus it will give you a chance to work out your oxygen exposure protections ie well sealed fermentor, controlled splashless transfers, good bottling/kegging technique etc. By the time you throw in all-grain mashing and so on, you're heading for disappointment, so make life easy at first.... It can all be done indoors on the stove, and to be honest, it can mostly be done with the equipment you already have in the kitchen. I've got a couple of videos on brewing with no gear at all, but there are loads of videos on ways to start out. Hope it goes well if you give it a shot. 👍

Funny enough, I've got a Mexican lager in the tank that's holding up my next brew as well. Can't complain though, when the only thing standing between you and beer, is more beer. A nice rock and hard place situation. 😁🍺🍺

I love this beer. Hope you like it as well.

Can definitely see the Special III working well in this also. I think it depends on whether you're trying for more of a milk chocolate smoothness, or a more defined dark chocolate note.

It has crossed my mind a few times to maybe do that. By the time I get a camera set up, and everything ready, that idea completely slips my mind. Maybe one day. 😁

Please nick it, let me know if it works for you. I think 835X is one of the best lager yeasts out there (for the right style anyway). I've even started using it in my Czech Pils on the last 4 brews, not a Bohemian yeast sure, but it's the best Czech Pils I've made.

Good question. I stopped bottle priming nearly all my beers many years ago. Instead, I fine and clear everything in a unitank, then force carbonate, then bottle with a beer gun. This has given me much greater control over the carbonation process, and a useful side effect, I can pour crystal clear beer, right to the final dregs of the bottle. 😁 That's not to say I don't occasionally bottle prime. When the style absolutely calls for it, then I do it. An example of that is a beer I'm about to bottle. A Polish Grodziskie. Without bottle priming, it would lose some of what makes it the beer that it is.

We get bottles of iodine spray for our animals. The one we're using at the moment is Gold Label. It's a 3% iodine solution, and it's only about £5 online. I think any iodine will work. Just do a few tests as the mash is progressing, and you'll get an idea how much starch it takes to see a reaction, then you'll know how much you need and how long you might need to stir it around to see a result.

@@brewandbuild Thank you.

Ha 😁, the swimming was a bit out of place for a brewing video, but hey, I was heading down swimming anyway, before beer, so i figured I may as well get some footage... That water was bloody cold tho. I have to say that you popped into my thoughts a few times whilst I was editing that one together. I kept imagining your reaction to doing such a long boil. 🤣🤣 It does seem a bit indulgent to spend 14 hours making a beer, I'll admit. Cheers 🍺🍺

Some good questions. Before each use, I rinse the whole thing in Starsan. Then I put the stone end in the kettle and boil it. At the end of the 1 minute oxygen run, I turn off the gas and take the stone out of the wort. It tends to be still foaming a little at this point, which means that there can be no wort going into the pores. Then I rinse it under hot tap water, (give it a little wipe with some dishwashing liquid on my clean brewing sponge if needed) and then quickly boil the stone part in the kettle again. This way, there can be no yeast/bacteria left to multiply in the pores. I never touch the stone with my bare hands. Hope that's helpful. 👍

Yeah, I've done a couple of these now on sunny days using PV. It's been nice watching it boil away, and not costing me a thing. Good luck with trying it next year tho... 🍺🍺