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Hey I appreciate that info. I like Rock Auto also, they usually have about anything that you can need. Whenever O’Reillys doesn’t have something I need Rock Auto usually does. Thanks for watching! Again I really appreciate the comment!

Hey Rodney thanks for your question! I got them from O’Reillys. Any auto parts stores should have em tho. Parts are gettin a little harder to find for those but they can usually order about anything if they don’t have it.

Hey @MarthaAllmon, I’m not sure what you are referring to? The motor?

Yes that’s a good one to use. The only bad thing about white lithium grease is, it doesn’t like plastic or rubber (they say). I’ve never had an issue though. Thanks fir your comment!

It will definitely run terrible if you don’t have your O2 sensors hooked up. On those trucks, the second one farther back is known as the downstream O2 that’s not as important but upstream the first one is. Just weld em in and you’ll be set. You can get weld in O2 bungs (threads) online cheap. I like the ones that have a step in them. It gives you a little more surface to weld to. Thanks fir watchin!

@@unclelemme Thanks for responding, I appreciate it! I will definitely buy the threaded bungs as you suggested, but do you think the other way is just as effective? He just drilled out a hole in both header's near the collectors, threaded them, then installed his old censors. He didn't have access to a welder and he needed to get the truck out of its current location ASAP. Thanks again!

Yes you can drill em out and just thread them in. But they may leak or pop out. It’s worth a shot worst case you just weld in a new bung later. Good luck with your project, take care!

Hey @ParadiseEntertainmentCA that was extremely kind. We all struggle with self confidence and I too. So your message is a boost for me and my videos. I don’t have any social media or any prior experience with editing videos. I’ve been mostly self taught my whole life so any time I could shadow a person working I would ask if I could learn. Then UA-cam came into our lives. Now I can shadow any job almost!!! That leads me to how this channel came about. Over the years I watched UA-cam without much help for that truck GMT400. If I did, the videos weren’t very helpful so one day jokingly I said I was going to start making videos. That way hopefully people wouldn’t have to struggle so bad like I did making silly mistakes. Ya know what a mistake is,,, it’s something you didn’t learn from making the mistake. So you’ll mess up but you’ll learn. So many people get SO ANGRY working on their vehicles ( me too at times!) lol but you gotta have fun and patience. I’ll have to head over and check out your recovery videos. I love (Matt’s Off-road recovery) he’s a super cool guy like yer self I bet! Have fun with your project you’ll get it, just go like Johnny cash built his, One Piece at a time!… Well without the stealing from GM! lol Take care and God Bless!

Ya know I’ve seen that on some mechanic fail videos on UA-cam but never seen it in real life. Some peoples kidz I tell ya! Lol I’m glad you got it sorted out. Thanks fir watchin! I truly appreciate it 👍

They’ll be fine for either since they are adjustable. I always start at a low setting and adjust up till I get the best performance. I definitely recommend keeping the front settings the same and the rear the same. For example, the front setting #4 then setting #2 for the rear.

Thank very much 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

It’s not too bad of a project. A motorcycle jack definitely helps. Just make sure you have everything unhooked before you start removing it. Have a hairdryer or heat gun ready for the electrical plugs on the driver side. Be sure the torque converter is all the way back when you reinstall.

Some say you have to go firing order and the proper rotation direction. I’ve never done it like that I forget stuff…. What was I saying… Oh yeah, you’ll be able to jump to either side. I always turn the proper direction and make sure both valves are shut. You’ll have to remember what cylinder yer on. If you are unsure rotate back and forth (a little) to be sure. If you’re good you’ll be able to spin the pushrod as explained in the video. Hope that helps @randallburkhart8452

Hey @dandice81 great question! There’s probably a better way but I clean up any oil and wipe everything down. If it’s really bad with (grease and oil),I’ve had to degrease then power wash it and let it dry. Then run it, if nothin, drive a little bit and then check. Remember it’ll run down so it could be up higher. Wiggling the line while it’s running may show the line leak but be careful if it’s hot.

Hey no problem @ValdinoBarto I’m glad the video helped. Good luck with your project! Thanks fir watchin!

I imagine if it’s near the same diameter and length it’d be fine 👍

Thanks @towguy5150. I found it at o’Reillys. I’ll try to find more information.

I just checked online and no luck. I went out and checked the tool and it’s a (Power Torque GM 7810). I’ll also go talk to my buddies at O’Reillys’s today and see if they have any other info.

Ok I went to my buddies at O’Reillys and they helped me find the T handle. It is actually a 3/8 Drive T handle spline 12 piece socket set.(GM4278) Lifetime Guarantee! I’ve had mine for 2 years and no problems. It was only like 24 bucks!

Thanks for checking for me. I will have to stop by O'Reilly's and see if I can get my hands on one!!

At O'Reilly's I found it. Thanks again!! I can't wait to put it to use!!

I’m pretty sure all the GMT400 trucks I’ve had did that, even the Tahoe. It’s pretty common. I’m goin to be doin a Fuel pump and sending unit on my 96 K1500. We’ll see if the new cheapo one I have does it too.😂

Hey no problem @joeldanei5563! I’m glad it helped.

hey I waited yesterday 😆

Hey thanks for the question! It’s actually homemade from an oil pump intermediate shaft fitted to approximately a 10 inch long bar and a 7/16” socket with a 3/8” drive pounded on. I’ve been using it on the older 350 Chevys for years. You can go to Amazon and pickup a sweet one fir about 14 bucks. Just search the vehicle and (oil pump primer tool).

Hey to clarify, I said it was an intermediate shaft but it was actually an end off of an ole distributor I meant. Easier just to buy one for a couple bucks tho…

@@unclelemme Thank you!

Hey @@abeybaby29 not a problem! Good luck with yer project.👍

can you explain this better? or point me too where i can get these items?

@@amatureskater15 Melling part no. MFA 350. I got mine at o'Reilly but most auto parts box stores can get them. I believe I had to order and it came to the store in a day or two. Amazon also has them. Truck runs great with it and it also boosted oil pressure a touch.

I used Lucas Marine grease. Any light or white lithium, (petroleum jelly) would probably be the best even. I like Marine grade or white lithium because of the cold temperatures and excessive moisture here. Just a dab will do tho!

Hey thanks! I appreciate that! I’ve struggled and broke things learning the hard way over the years. So I figured I’d save someone else some of the headaches. 😆

Hey @j33pfyn4tik6 great questions! So far over the last couple years I’ve had no issues with either one of the two XBULL winch’s. I’d recommend bolting it on closer to overkill. 1.Over engineer fir strength! 2. Run the cables in a protective sheath. Directly to the battery/ fuse/ breaker. 3. Pre stretch yer winch line/respool it before use.( not totally necessary but recommend.) Weather is gettin better so I’ll get the Tufho out and do another video soon. Thanks again for watchin!

Right on! I appreciate the comment. Thanks bud!

Hey great comment! I figured it would work fine with many different types of electronics. I as you am primarily concerned on how long it will last. It’s a cheap light so I’m not worried if it gets ruined. Blowing stuff up is fun, just not electronics in yer face! I’ll use the 12-24v out in the blind to be safe. Thanks again fir the advice!

Are you supposed to have yer phone in class MICHAEL!?!? Focus on YER learnin bud!

Are you that stupid Michael?

Hey thanks @nevillenewman2785 for your comment! Funny thing you mentioned that I have a part 2 video I’ve been working on coming out soon. I actually had the set on one of the other trucks I installed rusted out like you said . So called cheap Chinese (stainless steel). Did I learn not to buy cheap ones? No I ordered another pair for around 200 bucks with the wrap. Most people should just keep their manifolds. Not a huge HP increase on them old trucks for the headache, so I’d just recommend not to do headers for most people. Thanks again fir your comment great tip!

Right on, I’ll try to put together somethin!👍

@@unclelemme nice

Don't even think about it.

It's to late

THANKS FIR THE REQUEST! Ill try to put together somethin. I aint no welder but I may have a few pointers bud!

Sorry bud!😆 ok.. ok!!! I’ll try to remember to wait to release it later in the day. Get yer homework done before you watch it! You ain’t missin nothin on the video don’t worry!

Right on! It’s a fraction of the price of (made in the USA)… If I had the money I’d buy Merican made so this works fir now!

Hey thanks fir the comment! I’m glad to hear the video helped. Even better to hear, you got your ride rollin again! Sux not havin yer wheels! I know the feelin

Hey thanks for the comment. Like I mentioned in the video I’m not familiar with the device. I’m glad it worked that way. Thanks again for the proper location of J3.

Thank you! I really appreciate your comment.

As you can see in the video they have a very little and very light amount of grease like petroleum jelly. In this climate I prefer to have extra grease. I stated in the beginning of the video that it isn’t necessary, I just prefer to do it. You may not want to mess with it like a viewer David did. He said it came out and leaked the oil. I’ve never had it happen in 10 years of doing it but you may not want to. DO NOT DO IT WHILE THEY ARE INSTALLED!!! If you do remove it be careful to have it on the lowest setting and fully extended as I stated in the video!

Never had that happen. Did you have it on the lowest setting? I’ve done it countless times always on the lowest settings.

David I’m sorry to hear that happened to you bud! I’ve done this to many dozen of these and never had an issue. You’re the first to let me know of an issue. If you can’t warranty it or I can help in anyway let me know. I plan to try to reach out to the manufacturer to understand more. The design may have changed.. If I can help lemme know David.

Good news! Called Rancho to see taking off the knob is recommended. Tech said that it’s probably a good idea. Took it back where I bought it. Rancho made it good. I checked the other 3 with no issues. Shocks are on!

@@davidsouza200 Hey thanks for the update David! I truly was concerned when you had that issue. I seen feller years ago do it and I’ve been doing it ever since.Im glad you got it sorted! Hopefully you’ll enjoy them. Play around with different settings. I’d at least keep the front sides the same. And the rear the same . Such as 2 clicks up in the front, 4 up in the rear. Just an example. Enjoy!

Maybe he removed the screws with the shocks compressed/under pressure. Maybe that's why the plunger/cylinder shut out

Lern Tin is very important Michael! Stay in school er you’ll end up spell Tin like this Foo!

I appreciate your input, I’m limited to the tools I have and the ways I’ve been doing it. I’ve never had an issue with any other engines. This engine still runs great. If you can be more specific on what not to do would be helpful. That way I can stop misinforming others on the issues. Thanksx!

Glad I could help. Yer pattern will tell you what you need to do. Sometimes it takes a bit patience too! Thankx fir the comment!

Thanks! 😁

Michael…. Yer always in trouble…😆

I did a 3/4 turn, but ended up doing 1 full turn in total . After the first fire I felt the rockers were a bit loose so I did another 1/4 turn. Less is the safest bet tho!

Hey bud that should be a M10-1.5. Front and rear bolts should be the same. I’ve never had one that was different. Good luck with your project 👍