Відео

Slinger speed way are you in wisconsin

My mom and dad had a 77 Cutlass Supreme with the same engine. Car was rusted badly but the engine ran good. Got decent fuel economy for a car from that era.

Wow. The best I heard so far.

Literally my truck right now but hey it was 400 bucks

Dayumm that's a badass truck!

Video too short

That looks just like mine I have the exact same truck paint color interior color all way down to same engine lol

What is the exhaust system?

Geeeeeeee

This world keeps on making bigger idiots. 😮

Kinda want to hunt down a bravo or courier with the same engine now.

Have had a 77 f150 with a 429 cammed out and stroked. Love these big blocks in the 70s models. They never get old, just better looking

Nicely done! Very clear instructions.

Sounds healthy! How do you get any traction with that much power??!!

This motor/sound automatically makes your dick bigger by 2 inches

Out breath aint as powerful on driverside causes the crackle maybe to?

Was the valves to tight on one side

Wtf lol Dumb...he must like playing with big long black sticks

Nice sounding truck. What is your exhaust system?

I would pay double in my country with a third world salary for a Ranger in this condition hahaha

First gen

No steering, tire, or alignment problems after?

Very nice Sir. May i respectfully ask how You bent and folded those little bracket clamps on the ends?

I was your 100th like on the video dude!! Thanks for the clean video. Im debating on doing this or not.

wow

The T96 gearbox won't take much more of that.

Whats the engine specs

The problem I had was bending the tabs over once I got the add a leaf installed. I found it easier to take the whole leaf spring assembly off and put it on on the bench.

Has that spring broken yet from superheating that spring steel? just wondering!

Great tutorial on the install. I now know what to bring to the project on game day. Thanks a lot !

Bro I'm the dude who just bought this car 2 days ago LMAO same Dent in the trunk😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Beautifull Ranger! Here un Argentina, the perkins engine Is the most used flor the hard work, in the Towns and the farms. Nice truck and videos!

Thats some kind of cheating😅😅

I want one for Christmas.

Thats cool....its a worktruck....and a simple to maintain worktruck

I believe I have this truck

Good looking old workhorse. Thanks for the video. American Iron all the way!

Thank you for this video.As i want to do the same job , on my F-250 , 1988 , almost identical as yours , but no rust , i live in warm and sunny California .Thank yo😊

Shifting like butter

That's why they call it a Classic! ❤

Try giving it a little tad bit of fuel nxt time

Promo>SM

I'm 'capable', but I'm not a rebuilder with dozens of brake lines to my credit. In my opinion, this style of tool sucks ass. Maybe it was the fact that the one I got as an AutoZone 'loaner' was badly made -- indeed, I did notice that the milling for the 3/16" setting was a bit larger on one side at the widest part of the flare, at the top edge of the tool -- but several practice flares with steel as well as Nickel-Copper were horrid. Bent, mashed, anything but usable. The tool I got took *_extreme_* force to use on steel, which it mangled, and it didn't even come close to making a good flare. I even distorted the roundness of the softer tubing to keep the 80,000th try from slipping -- in addition to the shitty look you get from the grooved slip-control retainers in the tool. I'm as careful as careful gets when I do work, so I don't think that this is the mere result of inability. I've seen quite a few videos of guys using this type of flaring tool, so I'll attribute most of the problems I had to poor manufacture, even though it looked like I was the first user of this gleaming chrome turd. In the aftermath I bought a handheld tool, which I like but hoped I'd love. It ALSO had issues, no matter how careful I was, and I don't believe the shit about imperfect reaming and chamfering resulting in unusable flares. I did those processes with reasonable effectiveness using improvised techniques, examining my results with a magnifying glass. I saw a few guys, some with supposedly 'pro' shops, use flares that weren't perfect, insisting that they never had leaks with their methods. Bottom line, the handhelds are cool, and can be effective as well as irreplaceable if you have no options to on-the-car work, but there's a reason beyond profit motive why higher-grade tools that cost an uncomfortable amount are on the market. The problem is that most people doing this DIY work won't 'break' out a three-figure flaring tool enough times to warrant the expense. If your pockets are deep enough, I'd recommend the splurge. It's also worth mentioning that the widespread opinion is very correct: you will NEVER achieve an overall factory-quality finish on flared lines -- especially if you're trying to cut and re-flare steel OEM installations rather than gut the system and replace everything with NiCopp..

I believe I'd name her 'Sledgehammer'

Do you have AC on your truck? I bought a 91 Ranger in a roughy shape and I don’t think it had AC

how fast can you go on the highway comfortably? without revving too high. Thanks.

that top bolt goes in from the frame side because that way the bolt can't back out. It will hit the frame. Just a bit of safety from the factory.

This is fucking horrible sell it and get something that can actually burn out your gonna burn up the poor little car

Nice video

Couple of additional tips since I struggled with this when I needed to redo the infamous rear brae lines for a 97 Explorerer: 1. FIRST AND FOREMOST make sure your flaring tool is in good working shape. When I tried to borrow some from AutoZone and Advanced Auto parts the fitting itself was BENT and the knurling on the clamp that goes over the brake line was completely worn down. This mean that the flare was always bad and crooked AND the brake line would keep sliding whenever you tried to tighten the tool. Double check that everything is actually straight and true on the tool before starting to save yourself a lot of time and frustration. 2. When you're cutting the line, use a tool designed for cutting brake lines. It's like a tiny version of what plumbers would use for copper water lines. This is to ensure that the opening stays circular. If it gets bent out of shape you're not going to get a good flare. 3. Once you have it cut, deburr it to remove any rough edges. If you don't do this there's a greater chance that the copper will catch on the flaring tool and give you a bad flare OR give you a poor seating surface even if you manage to get the double flare. 4. You can use a very small amount of brake fluid as lubricant on the tool itself, try not to get it on the clamp to prevent the line from sliding.