Відео

I got a bikeshop to do it. Yeah that's what I read too. The bike shop mechanic actually cut it too low following the manual hahaha. No big problem, all they needed to do was to lightly sand one of the plastic spacers down 1-2mm then all is good. Definitely a bit of a hassle here, mainly from Cannondale manual being just flat out wrong.

Thank you! Also did the di2 battery harness come with it? Some say it doesn't, some say it does? Thank you

@@rafiehannona5341 Nope, it did not come with the 105 model. Had to order it separately from bike shop and wait few weeks for it to arrive. If you build from di2 frame then of course it would come with the harness :) It does come wit the di2 rubber grommets though, you just need the harness part for di2 conversion.

Yeah, it came with a 700c originally. I fitted a new, more modern 700c wheelset in, because 11 speed drivetrain + wider rim for wider tires.

It rides amazing! I've since crashed it and had to get it carbon repaired (was easy job fortunately), so now it's back in action. One of the lesser headache modern frames to deal with, especially for Shimano. The downtube battery storage is just so much easier to live with than the seaettube one. I upgraded from a CAAD8 and a CAAD13, so this instantly felt familiar with handling and geometry. It's got a balanced ride quality, not too stiff and not too dead feeling. I'm definitely no weight weenie, if I was I'd probably just go rim brake to be honest. If you're building yourself, I highly suggest taking out the seatpost wedge (take out seatpost, fully unscrew it and then poke it out carefully with an allen key, read the manual for detailed method). Then as it says in multiple places, make sure grease is applied to the frame-side of the wedge and carbon assembly paste is applied to the seatpost side. Even tho it says in 3 different places to do that, including a bright yellow sticker on the toptube telling you to do that, bike shops still don't always do it. Can lead to some bad seatpost wedge creaking.

It's pretty solid. A lot of the issues with the earlier versions have been fixed. I had Sensah hoods back when they had the old rubber compound and it was horrible. The new hood rubber is much better. Only major remaining issue is the stupid Sensah front mech still has no barrel adjuster, but as you can see I have a downtube barrel adjuster / cable stop so that isn't an issue on this build.

No idea. From what I read on bikeforums, it's mainly the groupset that makes the difference. There might be minor tubeset changes too, but it's hard to know exactly what tubeset changes since all 3 are just marked the same "100% Tange OS". The guess is that they probably mix and matched Tange tubesets between the Master / Expert / Interval.

I have no clue, they're random art pieces in the apartment lobby.

Yeah this top bolt is really really annoying. Make sure the stem bolts are loose (tighten them *after* the top bolt, not before). Make sure all the cables are routed nicely through the spacers, and put some downwards force to push the stem down while screwing it in. Even then it might take a few tries for the threads to catch. Otherwise if still doesn't work, you can try carefully sand down one of the spacers slightly. Good luck!

@reddawn87 It did not! Really freaking annoying. LBS had to order it from Cannondale. Took 3 weeks to arrive.

Yeah, that is the case. I bought a 105 model and took everything off ;)

Easy to maintain tho 😅

It gets really windy out there. It also connects to a highway underpass you can ride across.

No idea! I did the compact which skipped Mt Tam, only the Marshall Wall

I used GoPro HERO 8 Black

Thanks!

Thanks for the music!