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The wiring should be really close if not exactly the same between the 04 (in the video) and your 05. Don't be afraid to use the OHM meter function of your multimeter just to verify you are getting the correct wires. The ECU in particular can be very hard to see what pin numbers are and in some cases they read right to left instead of left to right

@@hestermannmotorwerks thank you! I will be doing that. (One more trip to the junkyard today for a couple missing clutch switches and I think I’m ready to tackle the wiring!) Apparently you were the deciding factor on the successful swap for my guy @BMSmouthers so I really appreciate you and all you do! These videos are a godsend!

This should do it for you

It should if it is good and has a good battery

Cool! Did you get the engine fixed?

Glad to hear it worked for you!

Really hard to troubleshoot for you when I’m not there but make sure you have good batteries in the fob.

First thing is to check your grounds. If you unbolted one or two in the build, get them grounded again. Next, Use a needle or a pin and see if there is voltage before the converter. If there is constant voltage on the brake wire (red/black) before the converter, problem is upstream in the car. If voltage is correct there (only voltage when the brake is depressed) then check that the converter is grounded and wired correctly, it’s possible you have a bad converter. If voltage is coming out of the converter correctly, then there is a missing ground or a problem in the tail lights themselves

@@hestermannmotorwerks it was the trailer converter.. swapped it out for another one and its fine now.

good question...bump for an answer

Unfortunately the Bentley isn’t 100%. Glad you tested it first! What year model and engine are you working with? Might help the next guy to know

I'm working with a 06 golf tdi bew and 09a, it is a mk4, as I kept going I noticed the ecu isn't the same as the Bentley publishers, my Bentley matches your diagram, my pin 39 in the ecu runs to my tps through the blue plenum chamber connector, which I cut lol I can fix it once I get my pin tools but quick question, when running that cruise control wire from your pin 39 can I just use any wire from the ecu that had to do with the auto trans? Seeing how none of those will be used anymore, I don't wanna hurt my ecu but want the cruise control, idk how an ecu work totally when it comes to pins and if a certain pin puts out more power than another

I found a diagram, could I use the pin in the ecu for the kick down switch for the cruise control? Seeing how it's not being used anymore

@@ianmoberg374 yes you can use any of the pins that formerly went to the TCU since none of them are functional now. Just remember to move the ECU end to the correct pin lol. Glad to hear you found an accurate diagram!

I'm gunna take that ecu pin amd run it as u do with the 39 wire in the ecu, over to pin 4 of the white connector and to the cruise control tool switch and my wiring will be done, I just gotta figure out how to work the male connector side

I can't remember what video talks about that. But the answer is yes, I often put a spacer on the B-piller (panel bond) before mounting the rear window surround. I usually cut it out of the window fall off. That seems to work nicely. Sometimes the rear window surround is a little tight though when fitting it. Just depends on the kit. I also did one on the outside. Bonded a piece of fiberglass onto the outside of the rear window surround which is much the same as laying a couple layers of glass on there as you did. I challenge I found of putting the spacer on the outside is that the upper rear corner can come out weird and it takes a lot of sanding to get it looking good. When I do a single piece of fiberglass from the rear window cut out, it still ends up being about a 3/32-1/8 inch difference behind the rear of the door and the front edge of the window surround. But putting a thicker spacer in makes it really tough to get the rear window surround on and laying correctly. So I accept the 3/32-1/8 difference.

Thats a new one to me. Not sure what you got going on. If you have a manual, look at the wiring diagram to trace the tach wiring. Sorry to hear of your issue

ua-cam.com/video/mYKLNZl8EMo/v-deo.htmlsi=2J2lOXySlkBFbB_h.

Sorry there isn’t a specific BEW video but one of the wiring videos does include the cruise control pin for BEW

Unfortunately no. The dimensions of the 12 and up beetle don’t work for a Ute. It looks pretty silly. The door is much longer and the seats are moved back a bit. This makes for a long cab and a stubby little bed. It is unfortunate as I really like the newer MK5 based beetles

@@andrewhesterman2007 thank you very much for getting back to me. I like that kit so well, I am going to look for New Beetle. I do love mine, handle's and runs very nice.

First thing I recommend is double checking your PIN numbers. It is easy to count the wrong direction or misread the little numbers. If you do indeed have a wire already in pin 39, then I’m not sure what is going on. All the gas engines from 2000 and newer utilize the same pin

Depends on the automatic you have. If you have an 09A, you have to follow the 09A tiptronic video series and wiring. If you have an 02M then follow this video wiring

Yes this is a kit from Smyth Performance (www.smythkitcars.com)

yes same connections

yes it does and that is why the kit has all the aluminum bracing to bring back the rigidity and strength

I get my keys from Cascade German www.cascadegerman.com/?s=key+fob&post_type=product&title=1&excerpt=1&content=0&categories=0&attributes=1&tags=1&sku=1&orderby=title-DESC&ixwps=1

All depends on the engine but most likely you will get rev hang until you get the ECU corrected

Replied to you on email but for other viewers/readers, most of those are extra brackets I made and installed. The second one you mentioned is supposed to come with the kit, called the B pillar outer brace or also referred to as wheel well to b pillar brace

Smyth Performance: www.smythkitcars.com

Take the key cylinder out by popping the rubber plug in the jam side of door and loosening the torx screw but not all the way slide out and use a long screw driver to turn the lock while top portion of key is In ignition

Did you already reprogram the ECU to a manual?

@hesty32 yes. And Immo delete. Im wondering if it could have something to do with the Immo delete. I have another ECM from the manual donor car, I may try to throw in there to see if there's a change.

I don’t think the immo defeat is related. The fact that you have no codes is stumping me. If you haven’t, you could try resetting by unhooking the battery. Kinda sounding like accelerator communication issues (fuel pedal).

@hesty32 I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I am in process of testing a couple things at the moment. The TPS itself isn't it as I've installed two other known-good AP's as a hail Mary attempt to isolate the problem. If i end up having to rewire or find my mistake in the swap I'll reply with what I found. I am done with it for the week as of now.

Slight update. I had a total of 3 AP's (accelerator pedals) floating around so swapped them in one at a time to no avail. I unplugged the VSS from the tranny and the car drives atms it should.. but with no speedo obviously. Everything else works and I will revisit the issue later cause I really like my cruise control but for the moment it's good enough.

Ah, then there is a communication issue. May be a wiring issue or possibly could be one of the modules. That would explain why the reprogramming doesn't work

@@hesty32 the wiring is good as the OBD connection works and communication with the laptop VCDS software works. The key fob is not acceptable

what year is the vehicle? Sorry to hear it didn't work for you. You probably going to have to use VCDS

No the wiring is all the same. 02j is a little easier just because it is a little smaller

@@hesty32 awesome, thank you!

@@hesty32I’m smack in the middle of my swap and I’m again referencing this series. I can’t thank you enough for putting this together (especially the wiring section) as I don’t think Id be able to do it without punching walls without it! So far my biggest obstacle is the fact that some owner before me replaced the exhaust at some point and I’ll have to cut and reweld it. Not terrible since a bracket had popped loose and that will need to be rewelded as well…. 😤 Oh and getting all the triple square bolts connecting the trans to the motor wasn’t difficult… but getting to them WAS. Why VAG chose to use both m12 AND m14 was beyond me… I had m6-12 I had to go buy another set to get the m14 🤬 As it stands I need to get the 3 torque converter bolts - drop the 09a - do the wiring - and bolt in all the new stuff (including a steering rack since mine was leaking like crazy). I also need to make sure I have all the random brackets to keep the shift linkage straight… I think I have most everything else.

Great point! I usually remove the TCU and bag/tape the connector when I don’t do full wire harness surgery. If PRNDL still show up in your instrument cluster, the ECU and cluster are trying to communicate with the TCU and you will get errors/CELs. The TCU removed and ECU programmed to manual, you will still get a code for no communication with TCU but it won’t trigger a CEL. Thanks for highlighting this!

You can buy the ribbed floor on your own if that’s the floor you want but does complicate hinge clearance a little

@hesty32 That's awesome I don't want it to hinge, thanks

Sorry I haven’t got an answer for you there. I’ve heard of folks making it work but don’t know it myself. Might be able to find some info on VW Vortex forum

Thanks a lot 🙂@@hesty32

No that doesn’t trigger a CEL. It will show as an error code but it won’t trip a CEL. Did you scan it to see what errors codes are active?