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Great video. I like how you take the time to explain things in simple terms. Nice to see this process with an engine on the engine stand in order to get a great view of mounting. Thank you!

Yeah well played. Wanted to know what the big deal was. Makes sense now.

Got mahle rings here, can’t tell which one is top vs bottom. Both same color. One has the dot 3/4 from end the other 1 1/4 from end . Which top or where does the direction of bevel need to orientate. Instructions in box so generic.

All ford guys should definitely use a girdle..😂

ERROR: At 2:25 he mentions the stock stroke is 1.87". it's 2.87"!

I have a II and did the upper and lower control arm, QA coil over, 500# springs and 1" sway bar. The difference in ride is enormous. Sure the old stuff was worn out, but I also remember what it rode like when it wasn't 45 years old. It rides like butter and handles quite well. Doing this kit is well worth the effort. I need to do strut rod bushings and replace the inner tie rods, but will probably just put in a new rack. Thanks for explaining options with the rack. There is so much Mustang II stuff out there that much of it is not actually for a Mustang II. Is it not a strange echo of engineering to see "Mustang II" parts made better than new?

I like the fuel safe cell but move license plate down to bumper and have the exposed filler cap like the 60's mustang. Or try a similar option using like a Buick Regal tank which mounts from under car and has a rear fill. I have though about this since I have owned a 75 and a 77 couple before. Looking forward to getting a fastback when I retire in a couple of years as a project.

4 places 120 degrees from each if those are right its as good as it will get

you put out great content. Example the offset bushing.

221, 255,260,289 ,302 and Australian 5.6 HO engines have the same relative deck height . And yes from most engine builders view point stroking even a 302 W is nuts , to short a deck, bad rod angularly and so on , more over there is already a block built for a longer stroke that bolts anywhere " really" a 302 W will , the 351 W and you can stroke that by dropping in a 400 Ford crank , machine a very small amount off the crank snout and it bolts rite in , same bore spacing , same journal diameter. And you get a 408 ci Windsor with a .030 over bore . If stroking the 302W was a good idea don't you think Ford would have saved money in the late 1960s and done it ?? They looked into it and found 1 to short a deck 2 bad rod angularly and 3 that engine was designed to max out at 290 ci when designed and started at 221 ci . So the taller deck , larger main 351W was created . And if you can't find the 3/4 inch to fit a 351w in your 302w fitted car there is something wrong.

Get your quench right. You will be good.

Did you say you spun 8000 rpm with those 289 heads? What kind of distributor setup were you running? *Nice video of your progression

ALUM conductor of heat Also can dissapate under Conventional Operation.

Thousands of people have done this.

Isnt a 302 just a stroked 289? If you go to 347 you have to clearance the block as far as I know.

I have a question and need your opinion. I just had my 302 stroked to 347. I had the shop install the crank pistons and cam. The problem I am having is a significant oil leak that drips off the bell housing. I didn’t check the threaded plugs on the back of the engine before I attached the bell housing and trans. Do you think it could be an unsealed plug? I would hope it’s not the main seal! Thanks!

Thank you for your video just answered my question I don't need the extra expense I don't plan on turning my motor over 6,500 RPMs anyway

Every resto mod cars run 347 ci and you can buy a 363 ci with an aluminum race block can make more with a lot of money

An got a good price tag on them too

Comments are great. Great channel, just subscribed.

Ben Alameida has a great tip for better oil flow on his channel. If you watch this video at the 5;31 mark, there is a cap directly over Bill's hand. Its an inverted v shape cast in the block, which passes oil from one side to the other. Ben says this cap impinges the oil flow and should be installed upside down. If you look at a drawing of oil passages this makes sense. Thank you Bill for this great info! I just watched you video on main girdles, very informative. Thank you.

Thanks, I Joy your channel, I ❤Mustang IIs , Probably because my frist car was a mustang II, I still have the king cobra parts.

I LOVE AND APPRECIATE YOUR VIDEO AND LOVE FOR THE GREAT 289 😊❤ I PREFER THE OLD 289S MYSELF AND NEVER MET ONE PERSON WHO HEARD OR FELT MINE RUN THAT DIDN'T HAVE A SMILE EAR TO EAR 💪😎👍🙏😇🇺🇸

Great vid.. glad i found you.. going from 289 cast heads to aluminum i had a concern about the water passage on the aluminum heads.. you cleared it up. Thanks cheers !

That’s an awesome engine run stand… ❤ I have been having problems with Carter mechanical pumps putting out too much pressure. Two of them pegged my 15 psi gauges. I have been running Holley carbs. That high pressure pushes past the needle and seats. So I have been running electric fuel pumps.

Just the fact that there are "Kits" available should tell you the answer to that books question. If you didn't figure that out yet, you shouldn't touch your engine!

You better., It's the only thing gonna hold that boat anchor together.

Great video, very clear and easy to follow.... thanks for taking the time to help others .

what about pre lode

I was an engine machinist for many years. I've installed a lot of these on SBF. The best way to do it is machining the caps for the steel girdle to fit flush. That is also the proper way to install front and rear straps on SBC. It actually makes the cap stronger by putting a flat piece of billet steel over the center of the cap. The steel is less likely to flex than the cast cap in the center, where all of the load is being concentrated. You should remove the spacers for a tight fit against the cap, provided that the caps have been machined (milled) properly and straight. You should also have the align hone done after the girdle is fitted. An SBF is generally good to the 500hp threshold and a girdle won't fix that but it won't hurt anything either. It does help with other issues.

Did you use a dial indicator plate to do this?

Your video was really good, probably the best I've seen here yet. I just found the biggest positive and negative locations and divided by two. I didn't check it all the way around until after installing the .014 pins. That got me to about 0.003. However, I often wonder what the tolerance for the diameter of the hole is because you can never seem to get exactly right. Hell, what is the tolerance of the dial indicator for that matter? Mine is Chinese, but it did zero out at the 360° rotation. Or even my error considering parallax with a relatively fixed eye position while the gauge is in different positions as the crank turns. I guess I can beat the horse to death with my OCD, but all good points. Anyway, I did like your explanation about OEM trannys not being very finicky because they are for mass production.

This is good to know. I have a 64 289 five bolt I’d like to build up on a few years.

this is the first mention of a girdle or a install Ive ever seen. unless this is a full on dragster then the caps are going no where. however the girdle does looks sewxy on there, maybe you can put a bonnet on the intake.

So is it safe to say that the flat side of the connecting rod will face the front side ( marked by a dot or arrow) of the piston??

I have seen girdles and new caps made to fit one another. Yup, line bore and hone must be done but it is your engine, do whatever you like.

One that you missed was drilling an approximate 1/16" hole in a front galley plug to add lube oil to the timing chain and gears. Also, many if not all late 5.0/302 engines (i.e. '95 up) have tapped front galley holes.

I was waiting for: power/torque curve between 302 VS 351............. Or, 0 to 60 times......... 1/4 miles times to Judge money VS performance gains...................... ; p

Very good info thanks

My experience, 347 hydraulic roller cam , castiron high ports. And EFI. It went 11.20’s on motor , on 175 went 10.00’s. Made about 15 track passes , lost oil pressure , tore it down only thing visible it actually broke the girdle over by the oil pump. Finished tearing it down , pulled crank out and #3 main crumbled off into the block. It still had cap walk , have built several Shp afternarket block sbf’s , if you making some big power you will still have cap walk. Seen it many times. Only thing I seen my girdle did was save my rotating assembly from being destroyed. Just my opinion.

Very well explained ! I always wonder how long those measurements stay the roughly the same. If you have an engine that puts out 650 'lbs of torque coupled to the bell housing, you would imagine that something would twist a bit in time. Am I off my rockers or kind of on the right track ?

Haha.... 347 stroker range anxiety is kind of funny. This chassis was designed with the 2.3 L 4 that got 23 city and 33 highway. A 347 stroker with a giant cam and heads is pretty much the opposite of what they were thinking. The reason the car sold the way it did was it was a superior option to a sub-compact and got similar mileage. I'm in the same position. I think I'm not getting 10 miles to the gallon. Also, my gas gauge isn't working.

Like the pro safe rear fill tank with the pull down license plate idea.

the 78 Mustang ll I am building my son I cut out the rear spare tire well and surrounding floor, fabricated a square frame with 2"x2" square mild steel tube to fit between the rear frame rails, welded that in and bought a 1967/68 Mercury Cougar gas tank to fit in that opening, also used a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut out for the fill tube to go behind a 67/68 cougar pull down license plate holder and fill neck tube, hole in driver rear quarter is deleted, cougar tank is 16 gallons, mustang ll tank is 13 gallons

I'll tell you like i did another guy they make spacers for those oil pumps on ford 289 and 302 , when you need to use them!!!

You can purchase aftermarket main caps also , im not a for guy , but if I'm going to build a 347 stroker or bigger cubic inch engines im going to buy and aftermarket bolck , Dart, Blueprint, Speedmaster something that has billet four bolt splayed caps in the center three caps ,

Great Explanation Thanks!

Harrop makes a supercharger kit for the 302 -351that will increase the power to over 700 HP. Not cheap though. 😙

I own a 74 mustang 2 September 73 build date love it better looking than anything made today

Thank you for this video!!!!!